(Topic ID: 231454)

Installation of RAD CALS and pics of Medieval RAD CALS installed


By Highclasspinball

5 months ago



Topic Stats

  • 95 posts
  • 41 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 7 days ago by pinlawyer
  • Topic is favorited by 26 Pinsiders

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There are 95 posts in this topic. You are on page 1 of 2.
#1 5 months ago

Hi all,

finally I had a chance to install a set of RAD CALS on a MM. As you can see on the pictures it is very easy to prepare the cabinet - just sand the corners a little and paint them black (for other games like Funhouse ist should be different color like blue). After the paint is dry simply put the decal on and you are done. They will go right under the siderails without a gap.

Please email me with any questions!

I have the following titles available right now:

Medieval Madness
Cactus Canyon
Funhouse
Fish Tales
White Water
Bride of Pinbot
Theatre of Magic
Attack from Mars

new this month:
Cirqus Voltaire
Tales of the Arabian Nights
TAXI
Campions Pub
Whirlwind
Addams Family
No good Goofers

Please email me with any titles you would like to see, there are more than 39 titles prepared so far, I have just to decide which I run first. Please do not request any other manufacturer than Bally WMS as I have no licences for any other games at this time and any 3rd party titles like Jhnny Mnemonic for example are not possible as well. CFTBL will come early next year.

I have a video of the installation on my Facebook page www.facebook.com/mircoplayfields

The RAD Cals are listed in my Pinside shop, but there is the following SPECIAL OFFER Valid till end of this year:

400 USD shipped OR 300 USD in combination with any playfield order.

Regards,
Mirco

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#2 5 months ago

Hello i am just learning about these Rad Cals, is the material thicker? The front corners do not meet up? They look great
When will the Totan decal be available also

#3 5 months ago
Quoted from BertoDRINK1:

Hello i am just learning about these Rad Cals, is the material thicker? The front corners do not meet up? They look great
When will the Totan decal be available also

Berto buddy, saw these things at expo, they are sharp, and look to make cabinet restoration much easier. They are almost like a thin plastic material. I think you would like them.

#4 5 months ago

How do you address the edges of the cabinet? Is there a corner piece that comes with them?

#5 5 months ago

The material is 0,8 millimeter thick which is like 0,04 inch. The do not go to the absolute end of the cabinet to keep some tolerance for different cabinets. The older cabinets were not made on CNC machines, so there is sometimes a bigger tolerance...

TOTAN is printing next week as well as all other new titles.

There are no corner pieces needed, but if someone has a good suggestion for the coin door corners I would love to hear about it!

Regards,
Mirco

#6 5 months ago

ok i want these for sure but that front edge pic is awful no offense can the decal be bigger then cut back cuz the rest looks amazing like all the stuff you guys do .........so thats how all the fronts by the legs look?big gap that has to be painted im sure im not the only picky jerk on here im just asking not trying to upset anyone so don't fry me here just curious i really want some of these shiiiiiinnnyyyyy decals you guys are great

#7 5 months ago
Quoted from Highclasspinball:

The material is 0,8 millimeter thick which is like 0,04 inch. The do not go to the absolute end of the cabinet to keep some tolerance for different cabinets. The older cabinets were not made on CNC machines, so there is sometimes a bigger tolerance...
TOTAN is printing next week as well as all other new titles.
There are no corner pieces needed, but if someone has a good suggestion for the coin door corners I would love to hear about it!
Regards,
Mirco

HEP has a method that looks great, I think these were standard decals though.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/hep-presents-a-tale-of-two-medieval-madnesses/page/7#post-4534772

#8 5 months ago

Interesting, so it is like the Hardtops that are being made. Is the image on the bottom also. Are you using 3m material to stick it down?

I would think it would be hard for the average to cut the edges and get a smooth corner that would look good without it being laser cut. I just did a Hartop and had to cut a hole for a rollover and it came out OK but not perfect and at least it was in the back of the playfield. Don't think I would want to try cutting this on the front I would rather experiment with paint colors to match or just go with black.

#9 5 months ago

Can we get some pics with the legs and coin door on?

Would the edge of the art still be visible around the legs?

Any videos out there that cover the installation process?

I'm assuming we'd want to install the metal plates to keep the legs from contacting the art?

I've got a White Water with wrinkled art around the legs. Is this product thick enough to bridge over imperfections like this, or does the old art need to be completely removed?

Thanks!

#10 5 months ago

I hope that I don't miss any questions. Please let me know if I do.

The material is hard to cut by hand so it needs to be cut with a machine or dremel for example. But it will be difficult to cut the front corners once they are installed. It is possible to use a scyther to cut the material.

It is not necessary to fill up any holes for example beside the coin door. The decals can be glued over them. You will not see the holes. Same way it is possible to recess the screws I to the wood and glue the decal over it. I think it would look much better!

The legs should be installed with a steel protector so that there is no contact between leg and decal.

If the old decal is damaged around the legs I would sand that area smooth and put the new decal over it. If it does not stick to the cabinet very well you should think about taking it off. But as far as I know the original decals for white water should be fine.

Regards,
Mirco

#11 5 months ago

It looks very nice!
Just to clarify, I don’t need to sand down the whole cabinet, just make sure that the edges where the cabinet wood will be shown is perfect and painted?
Will it be thick enough to hide some of the imperfections in the cabinet wood?

#12 5 months ago

The edges of the front of the cabinet decals looks very jagged. Is this due to the top protective layer is not taken off yet?

#13 5 months ago

Yes the old decals can stay on. Smaller imperfections will be covered but if for example a corner is broken it would be visible and need to be filled before.

Please explain what do you mean with jagged?
Regards,
Mirco

#14 5 months ago

Thanks for the answer. What I mean is the edges of it. Look at the picture. Maybe that is only the protective film?

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#15 5 months ago

RetroRefurb RIP.

#16 5 months ago

These are interesting but the front two corners of the cabinet apparently becoming eyesores is a bit of deal killer. Considering that part of the cabinet is literally "front and center" I don't think many people would trade shiny cabinet sides for an eyesore up front.

I am not trying to be rude, just realistic and helpful. I am not the pickiest collector and the jagged imperfections noted above on the front corner, and overall appearance of this area, jumped out at me from a mile away.

#17 5 months ago
Quoted from Axl:

Thanks for the answer. What I mean is the edges of it. Look at the picture. Maybe that is only the protective film?
[quoted image]

I believe what you are seeing is the protective film on that, it has not been removed yet

#18 5 months ago
Quoted from Axl:

Thanks for the answer. What I mean is the edges of it. Look at the picture. Maybe that is only the protective film?
[quoted image]

Quoted from BC_Gambit:

These are interesting but the front two corners of the cabinet apparently becoming eyesores is a bit of deal killer. Considering that part of the cabinet is literally "front and center" I don't think many people would trade shiny cabinet sides for an eyesore up front.
I am not trying to be rude, just realistic and helpful. I am not the pickiest collector and the jagged imperfections noted above on the front corner, and overall appearance of this area, jumped out at me from a mile away.

This was my first thought as well. It looks very unfinished in that area.

#19 5 months ago

following.

#20 5 months ago

Really wish I hadn’t sold my Fishtales now. These look great. I’m assuming the edges can be finished up to look great.

#21 5 months ago

nice job, mirco!

O/T i'm glad you finally launched your website. looking to buy some playfields from you, but curious as to whether or not all of what you have available is on the site right now, and if not, where can i view a complete inventory? thanks much.

-jon

#22 5 months ago

The new shop usually has full inventory. The new batch of rad cals is not listed and many pictures are missing.

You will see only a very small part of the front corner as the legs will hide most of the corner and the lockbar hides the top as well. Maybe it would be an option to put a small plastic piece over the corner there....

Regards,
Mirco

#23 5 months ago
Quoted from Highclasspinball:

The new shop usually has full inventory. The new batch of rad cals is not listed and many pictures are missing.
You will see only a very small part of the front corner as the legs will hide most of the corner and the lockbar hides the top as well. Maybe it would be an option to put a small plastic piece over the corner there....
Regards,
Mirco

I would include a small vinyl wrap that matches the artwork for the front corners. Install that first under the RAD cals.

#24 5 months ago

Why don't the front of the JJP games look like this? Smaller tolerances?

#25 5 months ago
Quoted from Bud:

I believe what you are seeing is the protective film on that, it has not been removed yet

Or maybe it's the shiny coating which may delaminate even more over time? I don't know but I wish highclasspinball would address it.

#26 5 months ago

Yes, the JJP cabinets are made on CNC machines with small tolerances, the WMS cabinets have a tolerance of more than 1/4" in length...

I could have the front running completely to the corner, but I did it same way as the JJP ones were designed.

The little fibers are pieces of the glue of the adhesive and can be removed easily. I have not seen that at that moment, sorry for that.

There is no chance that the print can be removed from the plastic. We use a special ink in our highest end digital printer which cannot be scratched off, even with a screwdriver not. You will destroy the layer though, but there is absolutely no chipping.

Regards,
Mirco

#27 5 months ago

Thanks for the answer. This looks like the only way for lazy me when I will redecal my games.

#28 5 months ago

Do you think a black thin plastic corner would look good at the front?

Regards,
Mirco

#29 5 months ago

Front edge has me on the fence .. assuming there was a fence for Twilight Zone decal.

Could the edge of the Rad Cal be mitered? I like the idea of including a vinyl decal to wrap the edge which would only work for art that spans the front and back sides. Did I miss what the decal looks like at the side rail border?

#30 5 months ago
Quoted from kcZ:

Front edge has me on the fence .. assuming there was a fence for Twilight Zone decal.
Could the edge of the Rad Cal be mitered? I like the idea of including a vinyl decal to wrap the edge which would only work for art that spans the front and back sides. Did I miss what the decal looks like at the side rail border?

They tuck under the side rails. I think you need some type of corner piece to make it look finished. I can't decide if that should be a thin clear piece, a black piece, or color matched to the decals.

How about making the front / side decal corner as flush as possible in the front, not worrying about the rear - would that work?

#31 5 months ago
Quoted from kermit24:

They tuck under the side rails. I think you need some type of corner piece to make it look finished. I can't decide if that should be a thin clear piece, a black piece, or color matched to the decals.
How about making the front / side decal corner as flush as possible in the front, not worrying about the rear - would that work?

That’s what I’m thinkin

#32 5 months ago

Slide forward

#33 5 months ago

Here are the front edges of my Hobbit with RadCals for reference:

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#34 5 months ago

Definitely want for faded Indiana Jones...

#35 5 months ago

highclasspinball What are the odds of getting Capcom titles? I would love to see these for Pinball Magic

#36 5 months ago
Quoted from eabundy:

I would include a small vinyl wrap that matches the artwork for the front corners. Install that first under the RAD cals.

I agree. It doesn't need to have any graphics, just the predominate base color for the given game. With something like this, I'm in for a set on my White Water.

#37 5 months ago

If I would not cut the holes for flipper buttons everybody could put the decal right to the front... but the button hole would need to be cutted in with a dremel or any other hand milling tool.

Do you think that would be an option?
Regards,
Mirco

#38 5 months ago

Nice decals, easy to install. I would recommend having the a little taller and wider so one could trim to cabinet size. I like them and doing a fish tales next

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#39 5 months ago

That’s a great idea I can cut flip buttton holes just add as an option on order less work for you to lol

#40 5 months ago

U can still cut front tho

#41 5 months ago

I agree with not worrying about the button cutting. If you are skilled enough to put on the rad cals, you can cut a hole good enough since the flipper button should cover the edges of the hole anyway. So the trade off for minimizing the front edge gap is huge in my opinion.

#42 5 months ago

The Bride of Pinbot pics above looks like there’s a bottom gap issue too.....

#43 5 months ago

Were the decals on the bride of pinbot installed under the rails? They look high on the sides.

#44 5 months ago

Centaur?

#45 5 months ago

When will we be able to see the full list of available Rad-Cals? My IJ is screaming for these!

#46 5 months ago
Quoted from Highclasspinball:

If I would not cut the holes for flipper buttons everybody could put the decal right to the front... but the button hole would need to be cutted in with a dremel or any other hand milling tool.
Do you think that would be an option?
Regards,
Mirco

Yes. Options are great!

#47 5 months ago

Ij will be available as soon as I have the licence.

So the general opinion is that I should leave all holes off of the sides, correct? I will also cut them a little bigger for the outside dimensions.

Can you all do me a favour and measure the width of the front side? I would like to know how big the tolerances of the cabinets are so that we can go to the max possible size. Maybe we can avoid the gap on the corner...

Please put the width and game name here. Thank a lot!

The bop decals were made for a wpc cabinet and that why they do not match the sys 11 cab as they should. I will generate another version for the sys 11 cabinet.

Regards,
Mirco

#48 5 months ago

My Williams IJ is 24 11/16 front

Twilight zone is also 24 11/16 inches front

Both are 51 9/16 inches cabinet sides

#49 5 months ago

Funhouse is 22 inches even

#50 5 months ago

C'mon Pinside! These Rad-Cals are, well, Rad.

New tech good enough for JJP, good enough for Bally/Williams!

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