(Topic ID: 125018)

Install decals dry video, this is how I do them back box added

By McCune

9 years ago


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  • 142 posts
  • 53 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 8 years ago by Skypilot
  • Topic is favorited by 89 Pinsiders

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    #33 9 years ago

    Same way I've installed mine on my two cabs that I've done Really does work really good if you go slowly. Thanks for sharing!

    If I may add one tip that's not in this thread already that I was given by my decal printer. Be sure to wash your hands really well right before you start the process. This will limit the amount of oil that you transfer over to the decal at the start with your fingers. Having dirty/oily hands can cause some adhesion challenges in the corner that you start at, especially if you aren't super careful with your hands. Goal is still to not touch the sticky side but inevitably you do a little bit at first.

    #52 9 years ago
    Quoted from Blackbeard:

    I've seen many videos without a coin door filler. DOn't you just lay in and then cut the coin door area out with an exacto?

    That's exactly how I did mine. Curious on how the filler works. I'm guessing he's got some panels made up that bolt in using some of the mounting points inside the cab. Having a filler would make it so much easier but it's doable without one.

    #62 9 years ago
    Quoted from Skypilot:

    God, your smarter than you look !

    Well that's not hard to accomplish.

    I kid, I kid

    Jim's got some great tips and tricks he's shared over the years. I'm just glad to see him posting them again.

    #70 9 years ago
    Quoted from meSz:

    Where, if I may ask, did you get the cabinet? Looks new!

    Original is the best, especially if you can restore them to the level of the pros. If you can't and need a new cab these guys make some nice ones. The problem with new cabs is you have to be able to drill all the holes correctly. While not hard, if you mess up it could mess up several things thus why I personally feel restoring the original is best if at all possible.

    http://virtuapin.net/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=2&zenid=33c802203b51cbc1563a694dba216f9d

    #91 9 years ago
    Quoted from Blackbeard:

    There is a good youtube video regarding a taxi cab restoration done by gameroom collectibles. They showed the breakdown of removing the head, the coin door, side rails and miscellaneous hardware.
    I found the video helpful in working up the courage to do this. The breakdown part is my fear, more than the laying of the decals etc. I have this fear of not getting things back together again, even with a ton of pics. I know it's irrational...

    Hey, when you install everything back. If you have a couple of extra parts lying around just tell yourself you were being efficient and lightening the game for future moves.

    Jim, you should post your assembly station. Isn't it you that has a big TV in there that you can cycle through pics on? I'm sure you don't need them much anymore with most games but those one off types of games it's got to be handy.

    #107 9 years ago

    I feel the most important is a smooth surface. The smoother that is the better the decal will look and will adhere to the surface. On my first cab I had some orange peel in the paint and it showed through in the darker areas plus I had some issues with it not staying put. On my second cab I made sure it was smooth like glass. Decals went on real nice and are sticking great.

    Prep before installing the decals is important to.

    I'll let Jim/Bryan add to that.

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