(Topic ID: 125018)

Install decals dry video, this is how I do them back box added


By McCune

4 years ago



Topic Stats

  • 142 posts
  • 53 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 3 years ago by Skypilot
  • Topic is favorited by 80 Pinsiders

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    There are 142 posts in this topic. You are on page 3 of 3.
    #101 4 years ago

    I have found that the decals will only stick if the surface is prepared correctly and the thing that really makes them stick is time . Decals that have been on for many months will be adhered much better than ones that are only days old no matter how hard you press.

    #102 4 years ago

    Bryan,

    Any recommendations on a good laminate roller?

    #103 4 years ago
    Quoted from indypinhead:

    Bryan,
    Any recommendations on a good laminate roller?

    Not really. I've had mine for years. Got it from a cabinet shop buddy of mine.

    #104 4 years ago
    Quoted from Bryan_Kelly:

    Men with 5 pound balls and enough hair on their ass to weave two indian blankets.

    That is some mental picture.....

    #105 4 years ago
    Quoted from Bryan_Kelly:

    Not really. I've had mine for years. Got it from a cabinet shop buddy of mine.

    Is there a "width" you can recommend?

    #106 4 years ago
    Quoted from McCune:

    I have found that the decals will only stick if the surface is prepared correctly and the thing that really makes them stick is time . Decals that have been on for many months will be adhered much better than ones that are only days old no matter how hard you press.

    So in preparing the surface correctly, what's the most important part? The type of paint? Isn't that the last thing that goes on prior to the decaling?

    Or are you talking about tack cloth rubdown, etc.?

    I mean, besides the sanding, puttying, priming and painting, what is good preparation for decals to stick?

    #107 4 years ago

    I feel the most important is a smooth surface. The smoother that is the better the decal will look and will adhere to the surface. On my first cab I had some orange peel in the paint and it showed through in the darker areas plus I had some issues with it not staying put. On my second cab I made sure it was smooth like glass. Decals went on real nice and are sticking great.

    Prep before installing the decals is important to.

    I'll let Jim/Bryan add to that.

    #108 4 years ago
    Quoted from Bryan_Kelly:

    A brayer is for printings purposes and would only be used by pussies.
    Look up laminate rollers. Those are for men. Men with 5 pound balls and enough hair on their ass to weave two indian blankets.

    Now look what you did...you made me crap my last pair of Depends.

    (Seriously, Bryan...if you have 5 pound balls, you should probably have that looked at.)

    #109 4 years ago

    Really is easy I thought. I had a harder time with the vinyl and side art with my Ice Cold Beer. However I had custom art work for a pachinko cabinet made. I stored it in the garage during winter and the decal peeled on the corners. I however reapplied them with soapy water and put weights on the corners. It is fine now.

    IMG_20141213_215353.jpg IMG_20141218_195050.jpg
    #110 4 years ago

    So probably sanding with a really fine grit after painting but right before applying the decals is a must.

    #111 4 years ago
    Quoted from indypinhead:

    Any recommendations on a good laminate roller?

    Not needed, if you have one great , if not , don't buy one.

    Quoted from Blackbeard:

    Or are you talking about tack cloth rubdown,

    The tack cloth is only to get rid of any debris that may be on the decal backing paper and the cabinet surface .

    Quoted from Blackbeard:

    besides the sanding, puttying, priming and painting, is good for preparation for decals to stick?

    Yes , all those are very important , I use automotive epoxy primer sanded to a very smooth finish. Paint is harder to sand to a smooth finish and that is where the primer really shines in surface performance !

    #112 4 years ago

    I also wonder about adding some sort of glue or something to the edges prior to placing decals on, to avoid peeling. Maybe a dab of wood glue here and there, then wiped off right after laying decals?

    I don't know. I'd HATE to take the time to do all this and have those things peel up.

    #113 4 years ago

    I have never had a decal peel.

    #114 4 years ago

    Get leg protectors if you do the cabinet. They will not wrinkle the corners. Peeling should not be a problem on the cabinet. The legs and rails should keep it in place. You shouldn't have peeling if you prep it well.

    #115 4 years ago

    I'm getting ready to repaint and re-decal my Rocky & Bullwinkle using some custom decals.

    I've spent too many hours to count sanding, filling and then sanding some more. I'm just about at the point now where I can go over the entire thing again with fine grit papers on the random orbital sander. It's been suggested that I might want to go as high as 600 grit to get a glass smooth finish.

    Like McCune says it seems it's worth investing plenty of time in cabinet prep as it pays off in the long run (or at least that's the hope - I guess i'll find out in the next few weeks).

    #116 4 years ago

    Wow

    that was awesome

    #117 4 years ago
    Quoted from Blackbeard:

    I also wonder about adding some sort of glue or something to the edges prior to placing decals on, to avoid peeling. Maybe a dab of wood glue here and there, then wiped off right after laying decals?
    I don't know. I'd HATE to take the time to do all this and have those things peel up.

    If you've prepped the cabinet correctly and installed the artwork correctly, no need for any glue.

    #118 4 years ago
    Quoted from 85vett:

    I feel the most important is a smooth surface. The smoother that is the better the decal will look and will adhere to the surface. On my first cab I had some orange peel in the paint and it showed through in the darker areas plus I had some issues with it not staying put. On my second cab I made sure it was smooth like glass. Decals went on real nice and are sticking great.
    Prep before installing the decals is important to.
    I'll let Jim/Bryan add to that.

    I agree. Smoother is better.

    #119 4 years ago
    Quoted from Bryan_Kelly:

    If you've prepped the cabinet correctly and installed the artwork correctly, no need for any glue.

    Unless you enjoy sniffing it. But that doesn't usually lead to properly placed decals.

    3 months later
    #120 4 years ago
    Quoted from McCune:

    With the smooth epoxy surface you can pull them up if you get a bubble . I have not got a bubble since doing it the way shown in the video . Bubbles piss me off and happened often doing the wrong way.
    Pushing the decal into the fold will net bubbles and all sort of other mishaps, it is important to follow my video exactly.

    EXACTLY ! The wife also has a eagle eye for any imperfections and stops me at a moments notice . This cabinet had no such stops !
    Jim

    Jim, Is the automotive epoxy primer applied from a spray can or do you have to mix it and apply with a brush or roller (like a two-part epoxy garage floor Paint)? I am guessing this stuff is available at automotive paint speciality places? thanks.

    #121 4 years ago

    Well done sir.
    I put head decals on dry but never got the nerve up to try full cab decals by myself (2 hands).

    I love the smell of Rapid Tac in the morning, smells like victory.......

    Smart move using catalyzed paint / epoxy IMHO. Something that bonds with the wood should make a better base for decals over a regular paint. I used oil based polyurethane for the few cabs I have done so hopefully it's still bonded a decade from now.

    #122 4 years ago

    I have full gallon of the oil-based Diamond clear Varathane. Was wondering, since the cab is wood and this stuff is made for finishing wood floors, would it not work as a sealer also?

    #123 4 years ago

    Thanks, Jim.
    There are many talented restorers out there but IMHO the great ones are those that take time to make videos or tutorials that explain in precise detail how they performed their "magic".
    Wally

    #124 4 years ago

    Thanks for posting this McCune.

    I finally got around to doing the backbox on my Rocky & Bullwinkle and I used your method. I did manage to get a couple of small bubbles but looking back it's because I didn't follow your video precisely. Instead of working the squeegee up and down I was pushing in towards the decal being applied which, with hindsight, is clearly a big no-no.

    I'm just glad I tested it out on the backbox first; applying the large cabinet decals should be much more straight forward now I recognise that you have to follow your method exactly.

    Even with the very tiny air bubbles it still looks pretty sweet

    2015-07-25 12.06.45.jpg

    #125 4 years ago

    Of all the decal application videos I have seen, Jim's is definitely the best in my opinion. The method of folding /creasing the first few inches of the decal backing (not cutting it) and laying the decal back on it and Jim's method of applying the decal by running his felt squeegie back and forth along the decal seem key as it allows a more uniform way of setting the decal. That plus having a helper to hold the weight of the decal up that allows the backing to just slide back as it is pulled back.

    #126 4 years ago
    Quoted from McCune:

    » YouTube video

    You are an inspiration Jim

    1 month later
    #127 4 years ago

    In the video it looks like you're applying the decals directly onto the primer - so you're shooting the cabinet paint post decal install? Care to share what brand of primer you're using? Thanks for the videos Jim - really helpful!

    #128 4 years ago

    If you do get an air bubble, you can always take a fine needle and pop the bubble then smooth the decal. It's not ideal, but it looks a lot better than an air bubble that you can see. Also, if you can see the tiny hole after it's been smoothed out, you're a better man than I.

    #129 4 years ago

    Im glad this thread was brought back to life. Makes me want to start a restoration.
    Thanks for the video

    2 months later
    #130 3 years ago

    It says the video is privat?

    #131 3 years ago
    Quoted from tezting:

    It says the video is privat?

    Yeah, I tried to view it too. Bummer.

    #132 3 years ago

    McCune is gone from Pinside, and so--I would assume--are his videos.

    #133 3 years ago

    First time I met Jim was before his son passed. Hell of a nice guy. Spent time together at Expo one year and RMPS another year. Had a blast. It was fun talking with someone who does what I do and has the same interests.

    I will say, Jim changed after his son's death. I can't even imagine. I hope he finds peace with it all and I hope he returns here.

    Some might not think it, but he is a decent guy.

    #134 3 years ago
    Quoted from Bryan_Kelly:

    First time I met Jim was before his son passed. Hell of a nice guy. Spent time together at Expo one year and RMPS another year. Had a blast. It was fun talking with someone who does what I do and has the same interests.
    I will say, Jim changed after his son's death. I can't even imagine. I hope he finds peace with it all and I hope he returns here.
    Some might not think it, but he is a decent guy.

    He's an incredible guy and we became good friends...even though we were at each others' throats over WOZ for most of 2014.

    And he and you, Bryan, guided me through my first restoration this year (FH), and for that I'll be forever grateful. I've got the confidence to do them on my own now!

    I think.

    #135 3 years ago

    Hey I want to see the video. it says private? is it down?

    #136 3 years ago

    Me too, as I'm looking to do a couple pins. His work is amazing

    I've only done the wet method for fear of alignment.

    #137 3 years ago

    Kerry,

    I have about 8 pins that I'm looking to re-decal.

    Have you had luck using the "wet method"?

    #138 3 years ago

    Yes, great luck and no issues. For me it was the peace of mind "if" i wanted to adjust the decal while it was down. I've done 4 cabinets.

    The downside is you can't flip it and do the other side the same day.

    #139 3 years ago

    I would suggest doing the front coin door first, so you can align sides off it later.

    3 months later
    #141 3 years ago

    Here's a video showing another dry method. I prefer McCune's approach. The main thing I remember from his video is that he only applied a few inches at a time, which is how I would do it.

    2 weeks later
    #142 3 years ago
    Quoted from tonycip:

    Hey I want to see the video. it says private? is it down?

    Jims video is up and running. See how the pros do it!

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    There are 142 posts in this topic. You are on page 3 of 3.

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