This is SS got new decals today. The actual decal application is the easy part and the cabinet prep is the most time consuming .
Hope this helps some people out .
Jim
Where did you get that squeegee type device? Also, how far in from the edge do you cut the decal? I have heard you don't want to cut it right on the edge of cabinet, but a fraction of an inch in?
You do indeed make that look easy!
Quoted from Elicash:I have heard you don't want to cut it right on the edge of cabinet, but a fraction of an inch in?
I cut them flush, the key is cabinet prep. I don't care for wide gaps on my corners.
Quoted from Blackbeard:I'd like to see video of the cutting decal process.
I'll second that.
Quoted from McCune:I cut them flush, the key is cabinet prep. I don't care for wide gaps on my corners.
The cab edge the way your done it looks a Ton better than having than black edge, Awesome work, would luv to see more vids
Quoted from beelzeboob:I wanna know how he cuts the flipper and start button circles so purdy.
With a "circle saw" what else.
http://www.amazon.com/High-Quality-Felt-Decal-Squeegee/dp/B00I4CLY6A/ref=sr_1_cc_1
Just a felt edge squeegee
Quoted from Pinballer22:What type of squeegee do u you use?
Pinballer22: It's a felt edge automotive decal squeegee. We use them a lot at the shop I work at to apply clear bras on cars, blackout trim, etc.
Here's a link:
http://amzn.com/B00I4CLY6A
Quoted from beelzeboob:I wanna know how he cuts the flipper and start button circles so purdy.
That is done with a x-acto knife.
Quoted from Pinballer22:What type of squeegee do u you use?
A blue 3M squeegee with adhesive felt applied to the edge .
Quoted from Blackbeard:I'd like to see video of the cutting decal process.
Next cabinet!
Quoted from Blackbeard:Also, do you take any measures to prevent the decal from peeling/curling up?
It is all in cabinet prep.
Quoted from McCune:With a new razor blade .
Beautiful work. I find a single bevel blade easier to work with, but maybe that's just me.
Quoted from terryb:I find a single bevel blade easier to work with, but maybe that's just me.
I'll bet you are right . I will try that .
Quoted from McCune:That is done with a x-acto knife.
Yeah...I get that, but you don't use any kind of circle template to keep it on the edge of the circle? I'd love to see the technique for holding the blade and controlling it perfectly around the edge of the hole!
Quoted from beelzeboob:Yeah...I get that, but you don't use any kind of circle template to keep it on the edge of the circle? I'd love to see the technique for holding the blade and controlling it perfectly around the edge of the hole!
The wood guides you. With a sharp x-acto you don't need any pressure to cut. Just run it around the hole and it does the trimming for you. I slowly rotate with my fingers as I go around.
Quoted from jrockne:Pinballer22: It's a felt edge automotive decal squeegee. We use them a lot at the shop I work at to apply clear bras on cars, blackout trim, etc.
Here's a link:
http://amzn.com/B00I4CLY6A
Thanks guys and McCune and sharing.....found it cheaper on ebay with free shipping if anyone is after one or some.
Quoted from BrianZ:Where was this when I was doing side art this weekend? Argh...
Trust me ,I did it the hard way for a long time before I learned the easy way .
Same way I've installed mine on my two cabs that I've done Really does work really good if you go slowly. Thanks for sharing!
If I may add one tip that's not in this thread already that I was given by my decal printer. Be sure to wash your hands really well right before you start the process. This will limit the amount of oil that you transfer over to the decal at the start with your fingers. Having dirty/oily hands can cause some adhesion challenges in the corner that you start at, especially if you aren't super careful with your hands. Goal is still to not touch the sticky side but inevitably you do a little bit at first.
May I add,Tack off the cabinet and both sides of the decal . Small spedks of dirt,grit will leave bumps under the decal.
Quoted from Wolfmarsh:The wood guides you. With a sharp x-acto you don't need any pressure to cut. Just run it around the hole and it does the trimming for you. I slowly rotate with my fingers as I go around.
Another thing you might want to keep in mind when using the exacto knife along the flipper button cut-out... use an up and down motion with the knife while you're cutting the decal, but only cut on the down stroke. If you cut on the up stroke, you'll be pulling the decal away from the cabinet as you're cutting.
I'm no expert...as a matter of fact, I've never done a decal job on a pin...(That's about to change real soon).
I do know my exacto knifes though. I've been a cnc machinist/engineer for 31 years now. Out of all the sharp @ss tools in my shop...that damn exacto knife is the most dangerous. I can't count the number of times I've cut myself with it.
I appreciate people like McCune and Bryan Kelly sharing their expertise on things like this. It's gives me the courage to take my pinball projects to the "next level".
I'm still working up the courage to redo one of these cabs. For me, the most daunting thing is actually the disconnecting of the millions of connectors in the back box and lowering the harness down into the cab and removing the pf. The actual restoration part doesn't spook me too much.
Quoted from Skypilot:May I add,Tack off the cabinet and both sides of the decal . Small spedks of dirt,grit will leave bumps under the decal.
"Tack off the decal".. what's this mean? I'm assuming wiping with tack cloth?
What exactly is "tack" cloth anyway?
Quoted from Blackbeard:"Tack off the decal".. what's this mean? I'm assuming wiping with tack cloth?
What exactly is "tack" cloth anyway?
you are correct,tack cloth
Tack cloth (tack rag; tac cloth) is a specialized type of wiping cloth that is treated with a tacky material. It is designed to remove loose particles of dust, dirt and lint that would contaminate a surface that is to be painted, coated, laminated, photo-etched, or otherwise finished.
Quoted from McCune:It is all in cabinet prep.
Is the cabinet sealed, or painted under the decal? Hard to tell in the video.
Jim makes this look so much easier than it is. I have used this method for arcade cabinet decals, and I wasn't nearly as fast or smooth as Jim, but it's a great way to do the job.
Quoted from Gov:Is the cabinet sealed, or painted under the decal?
For sure, it is epoxy automotive primer.
Quoted from McCune:For sure, it is epoxy automotive primer.
What I needed to know, thanks
Quoted from CraigC:how do you do the front decal dry with the large hole in the middle?
With a coin door filler installed .
McCune,
Do you have the "specs" on making a coin door filler. I have several machines I'd like to do in the future...all system 11 and WPC games.
I've seen many videos without a coin door filler. DOn't you just lay in and then cut the coin door area out with an exacto?
Quoted from Blackbeard:I've seen many videos without a coin door filler. DOn't you just lay in and then cut the coin door area out with an exacto?
You cant successfully squeege a hole.
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