If you're going to apply that, make sure you level out those inserts well. Clear that area a bit, then lay the decal. Then clear over the area. Try not to clear too much as you don't want an edge.

I did this w my old pinbot light grid. Came out awesome. I used krylon crystal clear in a rattle can.

I'm assuming you don't want to go crazy with an old taxi pf.

I would sand the area first a bit too before you clear.

Level inserts
Sand
Clear
Light sand
Decal
Clear
Ligh sand.

Use isopropyl in between steps to cleAn.

Hey Evan

I ordered the same and did exactly what you mentioned. I only cut what was needed out and lined it up with each head on the PF. My blue was in good shape. Bi did the same with the 2x. Etc. taxi Cabs and cut the cab out rather than try to align the entire giraffe head sticking out the window....BUT

Before I did anything, I made a 600dpi color scan on the copier at work so I would have a backup. Ended up printing the heads on water slide decals and using those since the original decals were so much thicker. I used some of the thick ones in other areas.

Drscottsmith is right on target - I also recommend you scan the decal before you cut it just in case you have an issue cutting or applying it. I would also use a new exacto knife blade (or in my case scapel blade) to cut the piece you need out and apply only that.

I'm in the exact same predicament. I received my decals yesterday and have never tackled anything like this. When you guys say sand, do you mean remove all artwork that the decals will cover or only the artwork on the actual insert? I also wonder how krylon crystal clear would hold up?

When I did my pinbot I sanded over the whole area the decal will be applied. However, my decal had holes cut out for the inserts.

The point of sanding is to smooth the area uniform, but also to give something for the clear to grab onto.

Search out my pinbot light grid overlay thread.