(Topic ID: 251546)

Indiana Jones Restoration ... "It’s not the years honey... it’s the mileage"

By Ricochet

6 months ago

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  • 40 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 15 hours ago by Ricochet
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#1 6 months ago

In the thick of it now! Still finishing up my RFM resto... I’ve got good momentum so I want to get this cabinet done! I recently got my playfield back from captainneo and it’s going to have plenty of time to harden. robertstone0407 has done all of the powder coating for this machine, the coin door is done so that is the preview of the finish. My plan is to get this out of the garage in 3 weeks and setup the inside shop for all of the other rework. I don’t think I’ll get to stuffing the top of playfield until December. This is my favorite game ... it will be with me until I’m pushing up daisies...for this reason, this will be a 100% no stone unturned restoration... so there is plenty to do until I start putting screws to the top of the playfield.
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#3 6 months ago

Some quick before shots of the faded rubble

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#4 6 months ago

Cooked off well over an hour tearing down the head ... Wow I am humbled by the amount of hardware in this machine .... thinking of all the people who’s job it was to put this monster together ... all of the different stations along the way. What a machine! I tore down the playfield last October ... I kind of expected that to be a lot of work... and it was but it’s a playfield so yeah right it was. There is something about the cabinet though ... all the anchors, strapping, mounting plates, reinforcements and hinges. It’s awesome!

Everything is accounted for, bagged and sorted... but I’m thinking I’m going to have one last “shit from the bottom of the cabinet” bag tho
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#5 6 months ago

Started diggin’ in. I pulled the speaker plate and power box plate off. I’m going to remove the transformer shelf too. I want to get the base really clean.

Been thinking about the speaker...
I’ve a pinball Pro... I’m thinking of making the speaker plate non standard ... to fit an 8” woofer. I mean does anyone use the stock speaker ?

The little voice in my head said keep it stock dummy!

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#6 6 months ago

220 grit ain’t cuttin’ it! Gruuuuubbby

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#7 6 months ago

120 making a dent. I seriously considered cutting an entirely new cab... (or getting one from one of the folks around that make them). Maybe would have been worth it ... this is one filthy critter. I thought my RFM was dirty ... but considering this is 27 years old and has been who knows where I guess it’s not so bad.

In the end ... having it restored and original “mostly” will be great.
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#8 6 months ago

Oh and I feckin’ HATED tearing that transformer shelf out! But ... it had to be done! No way to get this 100% clean otherwise.

#9 6 months ago

Woodworking tonight !

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#10 6 months ago

While that nice new transformer shelf looks great... its NOT! Dumb a$$ here cut it in reverse... the side not showing is the top surface and if you flip it over... its got a big ol' knot on it and a nasty scuff mark! So I guess I'll be cutting another! Measure twice... cut once, repeat! I think it is important to document your mistakes along with the "pretty" things.

#11 6 months ago

Much better !!! Dry fit perfectly!!!

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#12 6 months ago

Another pass of the innards... there are a couple of solder flux spots on the floor panel from a previous owner/service ... ... may not come all the way out.

Got the side art scraped off... melting side art ... hmmm I’m reminded of melted faces ...

I’ll get behind the legs when I put it up on its side to strip the adhesive.

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#14 6 months ago
Quoted from yaksplat:

Do you have 27 years of arcade working through you sinuses?
Looking good!

Thanks ... In fact I do!!!! LOL!!! I do wear respirator (most of the time) ... but yeah stanky!!!

#16 6 months ago

Years ago when I used to restore vids... I used to be a huge patron of Bob Roberts... it was awesome ... and this security bit set remains a very important part of my set of useful things.

Used it for security but to remove the translite lock.

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#18 6 months ago
Quoted from KornFreak28:

Looking good brother! I restored mine last year and I had a blast! Enjoy!

Thank you! I’ve such a long way to go ... but if I can get back into the house ... before it gets cold ... I’m good to go! Hopefully get through stripping this weekend.

I’ve still got RFM lingering so I’m doing two at once.

#19 6 months ago

Got the method down pat with the heat gun and knife ... simply chase the gun with the knife in a nice controlled manner ... comes off like butta’. If it weren’t for the smell I could do this all day!

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#20 6 months ago

Didn’t realize I was wearing my Indy shirt! Nice try Lao Che !!!!

First pass sanding done !!! Still some adhesive residue left... I’ll get that with the the 120 then finish up with the 220.

Super pleased at the overall condition of this cabinet. Very little bondo and gluing needed !!! The bottom was a bit wonky... almost like it had been exposed to moisture... the surface was raised and flaky. It’s polished nicely now (sorta) !
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#22 6 months ago
Quoted from KornFreak28:

Perfect. Hit that cabinet with some primer, sand and repeat each time using a different grit. I started at 220, did another primer coat, then used 400, then 600 and 800 to finish it off. Man, that cabinet felt like silk when it was all said and done. Highly recommend the extra effort. I used (I think the name is) Killz primer.

I did a similar method on my RFM... I didn’t go to 800 tho. It came out like a Steinway piano

#24 6 months ago
Quoted from yaksplat:

Just make sure you have real oil based kilz

Yup I do! You know they changed the friggin label on it and it’s not easy to tell the difference between it and the latex version.

#27 6 months ago
Quoted from cosmokramer:

"Plenty of parachutes and liferafts"
I love that T-shirt! I have a few shirts that a lot of people dont give a second look to but every once in awhile someone stops me because it clicks with them.

I had one guy that passed me by say... "Too much to drink Doctor Jones?" , I cracked up! Love it.

#28 6 months ago

Things you do when you are up at 5:30 in the morning...

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#31 6 months ago

PinSound Shaker on its way !!!

Perfect timing as I can get it properly fitted prior to finishing the cabinet!

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#32 6 months ago

More filth and fixes today.

The cash box divider is that laminated cabinet material they use for screening directly onto the cabinet. Welp it doesn’t hold glue very well. The blocking wasn’t holding it and it was flopping in place. I popped the blocking, took the heat gun and sander to the divider and cleaned it to bare wood. I’ll put new blocking in before I paint.

I also made a total rookie move on something ... I was in a hurry and created some extra work for myself. I’ll post pics when I’ve repaired it and I’m done kicking myself in the a$$. ... actually you can see a bit of it in one of the pics of this post

Also can I say my favorite tools is my gyroscopic electric screwdriver!!! It’s the shit for this kind of work.
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#33 6 months ago

Taking some good advice...

I am amazed at the how well the overall build of the machine is ... the corners are razor sharp! I’m dealing with shrinkage here.

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#35 6 months ago
Quoted from KornFreak28:

Looking good! I’ve never used a gyroscopic before. What’s the big difference?

You push the button and turn it clockwise or counter-clockwise and it kicks in the drive. Works at any angle. It can be setup for “gun” or straight mode with a twist of the body.

#36 6 months ago

Inside ... Done.
Underside ... Done.

Next is to finish the exterior and bottom edge.

I’ll be glad to get out of this “investment” phase.
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#37 6 months ago

Using the contrast of the sunlight is a great way to see if you’ve gotten all the goo up ... and if you have any imperfections to deal with.

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#38 6 months ago

Here is my royal F*** UP!

I “thought” I broke all the glue away ...
instead of just trying to give the cleat some encouragement ... I whacked it with the hammer...

Welp that delaminated it just slightly

This was a dumb assed amateur move ...
It’s fixed but what a shame.

FWIW...this back panel is a bit “voidy” anyway...which contributed to the level of failure.

Still... dumb
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#41 6 months ago

Gonna have to rethink my next step.

The base of this cabinet has bugged me from day one. It had that raised fluffy/crusty feel to it. I thought I could sand it down... but the structure of it is weakened ... there was humidity / moisture here at one point. The rest of the cab is fine. I can sand this till I’m blue (brown) in the face and it just keeps crumbling.

So I don’t know.. I’m contemplating surgical replacement. Not sure what choice I have... all this work... I’m not just going to live with it.

Done for the day... gonna sleep on it tonight. I think I already know what I’m gonna do... I’m just not crazy about it.
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#42 6 months ago

Ok so it’s been eating me up ... decided to give it a go... I’m feeling better about it.

It’s gonna work out just fine. I’ll make a new bottom using the old one as a template. I’ll reinstall it... glue and clamp with epoxy. I’m going to dye the epoxy a slight tan color (probably ... yeah... likely unnecessary) so it will blend nicely once it’s sanded.

Annoying bump in the road... I was so excited because the cabinet itself wasn’t banged up at all. Not what I wanted to have to do ... but its the right thing to do.
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#43 6 months ago

Cabinet base removal a success. I don’t like looking at it...but it’s going to be just fine when it is repaired.

Since the bottom is out, I can replace the coin box divider and the transformer shelf with proper rabetted panels. All of it will be new on the inside bottom, shelf, blocking, divider and base... done. A while ago I drew up some plans as I was going to re-cut a new cabinet (probably shoulda done that now)... but whatever. I checked what I had drafted for the base of the cabinet against the real thing... they are 100% accurate.

Next steps...

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#47 6 months ago
Quoted from yaksplat:

If you're going this route, you can paint the base and cabinet interior different colors for a good contrast without any masking. Then assemble when the paint is dry.
Dry assemble the whole thing so you have all of your screw holes complete before painting.

I like this idea... I'm thinking about keeping it natural... I like the factory look. Not masking stuff has its appeal!

#49 6 months ago

Got the MDF today... 13 sheets into the stack to find one that wasn’t all f***ed up!!!! Typical Home Cheap-o

Had it ripped at the store ... guy pulled it through the saw all bent and crooked !!! Good thing it’s 49” wide.
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#50 6 months ago

New base ... DONE!

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#51 6 months ago

Fits poifectly!!! It’s clean ... your seeing dust marks on it.

Feeling good again!

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#53 6 months ago
Quoted from KornFreak28:

Hey! The power switch hole should be on the other side!

Oh you’re funny

#54 6 months ago

PinSound Shaker in the house.

I’m noodling where to mount this. Initially I was thinking ... right on the transformer shelf ... but I dunno... is it wise to be shaking that close to the transformer?

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#55 5 months ago

With the base removed I am able to replace the cash box divider and transformer shelf with tongue and groove panels. I’m also using a nice grade of maple!

Very pleased with it. I hope to get it stitched up before Monday.
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#56 5 months ago

Going back together !!!

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#57 5 months ago

I originally was going to use epoxy. That’s not the right stuff for this job. Epoxy does not wick into the wood and would eventually crack. Titebond III with good clamping is the way to go. I couldn’t be happier with the results so far.

Three more sides to go ... then it’s painting time !!!
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#59 5 months ago
Quoted from Bud:

I admire your efforts for keeping the original cab. I’ve done a lot of cabs, anymore I decide before I start on one if it’s worth my time or not. If not, I just buy a new one. Once you start replacing entire sections, the originality is gone. You can get so many hours tied up in just the cab and in the end it’s not as structurally sound as a new one. Here’s some pics from one of the IJs I replaced the bottom in a few years ago. I split the cab apart to do it so I could keep the factory edge along the bottom of the cab.
[quoted image][quoted image]

Thanks... that’s kind of the litmus test for me...”am I going to end up with something that is just going to crack apart in the end?” So far... so good. I considered your method... but I couldn’t get myself to crack the front off. I actually think this now may be a bit stronger than it was. The base is now glued on all sides of the cab... it used to flop in there... I also glued and nailed the transformer and cash box dividers. I think I’m good with it... Not gonna lie... once I decided the base needed to be replaced ... I had my doubts, and was thinking new cab.

#61 5 months ago
Quoted from Bud:

I would say your cab is in no way inferior or going to separate. All I’m saying is there is a huge time savings and a better cab in the end. New cabs are CNCd, no contamination, no separated plys, tighter joints, and more than likely better materials.
I restore original cabs too, sometimes it makes more sense to go with a new one in my opinion. You look like you are doing a great job!

I hear ya... I actually drew up plans for this machine and started to put it into Fusion for my buddy to CNC one for me. Came real close. In the end it would have been a lot less mess and overall less time to finish for sure.

#62 5 months ago

Made the speaker plate today ... that’s all I got in me

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#63 5 months ago

Finally! Last flipping edge repair! I only have 12 clamps... so it’s at least 24 hours per side !!!

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#65 5 months ago
Quoted from yaksplat:

I'm confused. If you made a new bottom for the machine, why are you making an adapter plate and not sizing it correctly for the speaker?

For reasons only to be a faithful reproduction of the original cabinet. This was originally how the cabinet is built. I've thought about making an 8" plate... hence why I've not glued it yet.

The pro woofer adapter plate in the pic above is just to show fit.
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#66 5 months ago

The tedium is done !!!!

Will be blocking and masking tomorrow !!!

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#67 5 months ago

Ready to be tacked ... masked and painted !!!

Man that sucked !!!!

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#68 5 months ago

I like to run the chamfer bit to redo the bottom edge and get a crisp 45 degrees. You just can’t get that with a sanding block. It takes so very little off and really cleans it up nicely.
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#70 5 months ago
Quoted from yaksplat:

You can't beat a router

Probably one of my favorite if not my absolute favorite power tool. You can do so much with a router, routing table, jigs, templates...etc.

#71 5 months ago

Chocks, cleats or whatever you kids call them

Sorry for the tight shots... I’ve a very tiny workspace

BTW... I drilled a bunch of tiny holes in that bondo and used construction adhesive (locktite PL MAX) to hold that left piece on. Wood glue no stickie to bondo.

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#72 5 months ago

In the interest of accuracy should I bother to drill the 4 T-nut holes in the coin box area? I’m thinking no, make the drill template for it and throw it in the manuals envelope.

#74 5 months ago
Quoted from cosmokramer:

I never put those in

Good to know thanks!

Yeah ... two of them are for a Euro cash box and the other two are for... I don’t know what.

So ... yup they are worthless.

#76 5 months ago

Masked, cleaned and first coat of primer done! The crazy tape on the bottom is so I can sit this atop two 5 gallon buckets and not tear the paper

I will hand sand this with 320 once it is dry in a day or two before I hit it with the second coat. This will make a nice smooth finish.
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#77 5 months ago

Scuff sanded with 320... applied second coat of primer.

Looks like a piece of concrete!!! Nice base coat for the paint to stick!
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#78 5 months ago

Final coat of primer ... very pleased with the results so far.

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#79 5 months ago

2 light coats primer ... sanded with 400 between coats.

2 light coats paint sanded with 400 between coats.

Gonna let sit for 3 days... Do another once over and last coat.
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#81 5 months ago

Welp... I should be done the main cabinet by now. I’ve a few errors in the finish (where it shows) so I’m going to wait a few days for it to harden up good, do a full sanding (not a deep sand ... just a surface evening) and put the final coat on.

I was in a hurry ... never be in a hurry when it comes to this stuff.

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#82 5 months ago

I’m re-fabricating the back-box lamp board. The MDF on this machine is flimsy... like the base of the cab... this has got to go. I’ve got plenty of extra MDF so why not.

The lamp socket holes are 5/8”. The recess for the clear post stop is 11/16”. I’m going to use the original as a routing template and a drill guide. Should come out nice.

Harness has been cleaned and is ready to go. One more day for second coat of white and I can cut it.
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#83 5 months ago

Hardest part is officially done (main box anyway)... still have to do the back box. I just don’t have the space to do them at the same time. I’m a bit clumsy so I know my limits.

I’m just too picky ... there is one decent coat in there that I could have lived with... but ya got one shot at it.
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#84 5 months ago

All ready for decallization !!! Going away for a week so it’s gonna sit for a bit. I’d rather stay home and finish it
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1 week later
#86 5 months ago

Indy is patented... and has his little feet.

I anchored a cleat to the bottom of the screen so I could squeegee from the bottom to the top... instead of just relying on the cabinet chock and squeegeeing from left to right. I just felt better about the natural tension the cleat provided... a little tape takes care of any (if any) potential wiggle.

I used a ton of ink but WTF... no chance I’m going to have any voids!

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#87 5 months ago

Couldn’t resist getting the coin door side done !!! Well almost... still need to cut the holes.

I applied this dry. Aligned ... checked, double checked and triple checked again. Clamped, taped then removed half of the backing ... applied the first half of the decal then removed the clamps and applied the second half. No bubbles no wrinkles no bumps. After it was rubbed in I used a roller to press it in... this removes any air in the adhesive and anchors it tight to the substrate.

This just makes me happy! I’ve had these decals since 2011... they sat flat under my bed... waiting.... and waiting.
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#89 5 months ago
Quoted from Flipper_McGavin:

How did you do these rear patent labels? It looks good and im wanting to do the same thing on my IJ.

Screen printed ... What you see in my post is just the screen and the ink. You don't see me using the squeegee to smear the ink over the lettering. You need to get the screen, squeegee and ink. I got the WPC screening kit (has both the patent text and the caution text for the back box and two squeegees) from merfeldma

It’s a boutique item for sure... but really necessary to do it “right”

#90 5 months ago

There was just no way to get the pillar aligned perfectly. I spent an hour with it...
Perfectly aligning the pillar pulls the decal off the rear... anyway... compromise

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#92 5 months ago
Quoted from yaksplat:

Align what the eye sees first.

Yup pretty much what I did ... I’m satisfied. When the leg and all the trim is on it will be fine. I also am good with it because I’m confident I tried all of the options.

Besides these old new decals look spectacular!!! As odd colors yellow and orange are ... I just love the motif of them in this artwork.

#96 5 months ago
Quoted from Beaumistim:

Here's mine from the factory. It's faded but the art doesn't line up there as well[quoted image]

Thanks for the pic! Yup they boogered up the arwork ( or they really didn't give 2 sh*ts) with the alignment. I'm satisfied with my end product.

#97 5 months ago
Quoted from KornFreak28:

When I restored mine, I aligned the top columns and didn't worry about the bottom columns since they are covered by the leg. No big deal! Use a red and blue sharpie to align them.....Just kidding!

Yeah right... you're not one I can picture hitting up your machine with a marker!

#99 5 months ago

I detest ground strapping ! It’s done !

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#100 5 months ago

Got the art saver spacers and legs on. Pay no mind to the yellow washers ... couldn’t find my black ones.

Here is a little preview of the color. It’s really REALLY hard to capture. There is subtle gold flake in the black.

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#101 5 months ago

So I had an f-up today.

I said before I'm kind of clumsy... sometimes even a little messy... especially when I'm in a hurry.

Welp.. today I was using a paint pen to fix edges... It takes some finesse to use these things. Me ... having a limited supply of finesse, I ended up with some of that nice black paint on my hand...

Yup you guessed it ... put a nice black blob in the yellow on the side-art. It was a holy shit f*ck f*ck f*ck F**********CK moment!

Tried to clean it off with a little paint thinner... no dice... it would only take off the surface but left a grey smudge behind. Fortunately the paint thinner doesn't really hurt the artwork.

Next... how do I cover this mess up... "I know... this yellow is almost dead-nuts the same as the Nazdar ink for the silk screen!"

Put a little on the brush... tried to lightly cover it... but no matter what... it was still there... it was better but not great.


I wiped of the Nazdar ink!!!! IT CLEANED IT BEAUTIFULLY! Absolutely no evidence of the f-up!

Talk about extreme low followed by an extreme high!

#103 5 months ago
Quoted from KornFreak28:

Nice touch! Who did that btw?

robertstone0407 ... he suggested the color. I was originally going polished brass but then I saw a few done in black and really felt like I wanted to go that route. Robert suggested this gold (which is mainly black) so its really quite elegant. I will eventually get my good camera to try and capture how it twinkles in the light. Its quite awesome.

#105 5 months ago

I splurged on a new transformer. Why not ... at this point you just stop caring about the money.

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#109 5 months ago
Quoted from Davi:

What's wrong about old one?

Nothing ... just grimy.

#111 5 months ago
Quoted from Davi:

C'mon, if I can do it, you can also do it. You have the skill [quoted image][quoted image]

Yup...that’s nice! Probably should have done that...I was in a spending mood.

#115 5 months ago

Man you guys are making me feel like I threw my money into a wood chipper... which ... I did actually

#116 5 months ago

Putting a few things on... I can’t capture the color at all... its not as speck-ly as it looks... It has a gold glow to it.

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#117 5 months ago

Gun done

I just cleaned the switch assembly... got rid of the overspray, replaced the diode insulating tube and molex socket. I also added a couple of zip ties for good measure.

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#118 5 months ago

Few more odds and ends... New mantiss stainless receiver, which are very nice! I went so far as to get all the bolt beads powder coated in the same finish... kind of like eating potato chips ... once you start ... well you know.

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#119 4 months ago

Partially due to space.. partially due to breaking up the monotony of refinishing, I am now working on the back box.

Looks like someone thought it might have been a good idea to touch it up with a marker
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#120 4 months ago

When ya think you’re done bondo-ing. You’re not!

Upon close inspection the top edge had a bad cut! Lots of tear out. All better now, plus it made me go around the edge and get rid of all the grain. Should finish nicely.

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#122 4 months ago
Quoted from KornFreak28:

Looking good! Did you install my planes already?

Funny... I have your planes setup in my "old" man cave. They are sitting on top of my stereo stand. This room is where I'm going to be doing the playfield re-pop... they'll be staring at me the whole time!

I call it my "old" man cave because its setup sort of vintage late 70's.

#124 4 months ago
Quoted from Davi:

And my protectors?

Those are waiting patiently for their place.

#126 4 months ago

The bulk of it is out of the garage ! I’m about 3 weeks behind schedule but I don’t care.

Not gonna lie ... I’m liking the way it looks along side Star Wars.

So many of these are faded... they are so brilliant with fresh artwork !!!
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#127 4 months ago

Primer is done ... we are in a cold snap ... now officially using the heater.

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#128 4 months ago

Working on light board... short of a CNC machine... this is how it’s done (or at least how I did it) manually.

It’s rough cut around the edge. I’m going to do the final route cut when it’s paint is finished.

Clamp factory board down, set the depth of the jig to about 2/3 of the board. Not drilling all the way through so it will have nice clean cuts. Even with a sacrificial board underneath... Drilling through MDF doesn’t always make a nice cut.

Once one side is drilled I used a 1/16 bit to make a pilot for the cut on the other side.

Flip the board ... reset the jig and finish the cuts using pilot hole for alignment.
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#129 4 months ago

Thought I’d start working on rebuilding the power junction box...

Bought a new EMI filter from Marcospecialties.... welp... it’s not a direct fit... and it was overpriced. I ordered it with a bunch of other crap a long time ago so its a loss. Considering all that I've dumped into this thing... its pennies.

Bummer... won’t be working on this tonight.
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#130 4 months ago

Just one more coat of black... and no more spray paint !!!

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#132 4 months ago

I went to rattle cans. I used an HVLP turbine sprayer for my RFM restore. Working the HVLP sprayer inside the cabinet is a bitch ... the cans make it easy to maneuver.

#134 4 months ago
Quoted from KornFreak28:

Used rattle cans as well and got the perfect finish [quoted image]

Yah ya did!

#136 4 months ago
Quoted from KornFreak28:

Here’s after screening the warning text [quoted image]


#139 4 months ago
Quoted from KornFreak28:

Thanks! In case you are thinking about adding side decals, now is the time! **Pic shows old lock down bar, which was used to test fit the receiver**
[quoted image]

Yeah I’m on the fence with those. I’ve got a set... just haven’t committed to them yet.

#140 4 months ago

Light board is done!

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#141 4 months ago

This thing scares the shit out of me! So far I've only had to do the patent screen... very tiny, easy to do.

I've been staring at this for a few days. Gonna wait until I have the guts and nothing else to do.

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#143 4 months ago
Quoted from dmacy:

I hear you on this but it's not too bad. Plan to have back up to clean it up quickly at the ready. I had my wife stand by while I mucked it up my first round. Practice on something like box is what I should have done. Oh, and have plenty of mentioned supplies at the ready to clean up the screens when you're done!
You're making quick progress!

Thank you!

Yeah I've been just noodling all that can go wrong... and I'm over thinking it. Bryan Kelly has a great video on how to do this...

He's got such a nice work space and has such a cool level-headed-ness about him... makes it look like a walk in the park. It very well may be for some, but with me it won't be so much. I'm just tired of painting and am ready to move on to the next phase so I don't want to have to re-do it.

#147 4 months ago

Got myself a laminated tech chart. I bought one from Marco... nothing special about it... claims to be vinyl. I lost it ... I wasn’t impressed anyway.

So here are three... the top left is the original printed on some really durable stiff ... almost plastic. Only glaring problem is that the circuit board diagram is way off. This has been corrected in the reprints and on-line copies.

Top right is from Treasurecove (I got years ago). It’s almost the same as the original. It’s laminated adhesive backed. It has the circuit board orientation fixed.

The bottom one is the one I downloaded from Peter’s site www.inkochnito.nl and had printed and laminated. It really fits nicely on an 11x17 but when printed on 8 1/2x11 is a little crunched. I think this is the one I’m going with.
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#149 4 months ago
Quoted from Davi:

Original is original...
It's always good to keep a piece of history.

I agree the original will go back on the backside of the light board.

This is for the inside of the cabinet

#150 4 months ago


I can sleep now !

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#153 4 months ago
Quoted from Kerry_Richard:

Backbox warning... Nicely done! The pressure is off
Can I ask where you got your silk screen? Also, I think there's a smaller screening, I want to say about 4" x 5", near the bottom of backbox. Do you have that one as well?

Hey Kerry... here is the info

#154 4 months ago
Quoted from paynemic:

Nice work on the screening!
Were you aware of the announcement of new playfields and radcals for Indy? Just in case you were interested.

Thanks !!! Yup I am aware, and all of that would have been very appealing to me about a year ago . I've put out the cash to restore my playfield and am super happy with it, so the money well (pit) on this one has all but dried up. I don't see myself buying a repro playfield just to keep it in storage. Radcals are really neat but I've the screen printed decals on this one so I'm not going to lose any sleep over that either. But seriously for those just starting a restoration... 1250 for new radcals and playfield set is a great deal IMHO.

#157 4 months ago

Finished cabinet decals ... getting the back box together! Once it’s on the machine I’m going to go around the edge with a paint pen to hide the white edge.

Feels good !!!
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#159 4 months ago


Light board tonight and we start getting this beeyotch back together! I'll be setting up my play field on the rotisserie over the holiday... I simply can't believe its happening. I've had this machine for almost 9 years now (which is also mind boggling) and its finally getting done. I was able to get out of the garage before the snow flies which although later than my original 3 week plan... is good enough.

This weekend will be a big clean-regroup-reorganize

#160 4 months ago

Light board done! Got the back box loaded (except for the knocker)

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#161 4 months ago

Rebuilt power entry box today!

I had my power entry box powder coated with the same finish as the trim. I decided to go with the stainless steel version... I just think it looks better.

I didn’t have any red colored flame proof insulation for the MOV and Thermistor ... I had white ... good enough.

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#162 4 months ago

GI LEDs arrived today as well!

2SMD may be a bit bright for the back box... however I’m installing a mirrored back glass instead of the traditional trans light. So we will see... if I need to go to 1SMD

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#163 4 months ago

I’ve been in restoration mode since August... I started with RFM and went into this one ... they were overlapping at one point.

I’ve got tendonitis so bad I can barely move my arms.

Working a desk job and getting old sucks.

“Goddamit indy where doesn’t it hurt ?!”

#164 4 months ago

Pushing through the pain!

I really love the stainless AC service boxes.. like the lockdown receiver, they are from www.mantisamusements.com they have lots of goodies over there!

The H and U channel as well as the lift trim is metal (got those from mantis too) and is powder coated to match the cabinet trim.

Oh and CPR mirrored back glass ...

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#165 4 months ago

Boards are all clean and reflowed where needed.

I need to replace that dirty little label on the upper right of the mounting plate
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#166 4 months ago

Fixed the barcode label.

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#168 4 months ago

Enjoy ! Made one set printed offset like mine and another centered. Can be printed on any adhesive label and hand cut. I got a cheap 4mm radius cutter from amazon to round the corners.

Print at 100%


1 week later
#171 3 months ago
Quoted from mbt:

Great thread Ricochet! I am in the process of redoing my BSD cabinet right now. I am curious about the bottom panel you made. Mine is only 1/4 thick it looks like you used 1/2 for your replacement bottom panel and then routed out 1/4 on the sides. What benefit does this provide? I am guessing it just adds strength by having the bottom panel thicker?

Hey Mike...

Thank you!! The original design of the cabinet has a 1/4 x 1/4 slot that the base fits into. I suppose the original designers went with the 1/2 MDF because it’s economical and it’s pretty common to fit panels into cabinetry this way. It provides a nice clean edge that can be glued and makes the entire thing solid.

#172 3 months ago

Just a little something while I wait for my joints to heal... I made it so the only thing that's soldered to the switch is the diode.
The only think I kept were the 4 wires and connector pins, everything else is new.
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1 week later
#173 3 months ago

Been super sick... everything has come to a screeching halt. Hope to get back in business before the new year. I’ve got some led harness to make for the Indy Plane Rescue Service... so that will take priority before I start this up again.

#175 3 months ago
Quoted from KornFreak28:

There are 2 more add ons. I’ll PM you later. No rush my friend! Get well soon

Affirmative ! I got one today.

1 week later
#176 3 months ago

How to stop your decal from buckling under pressure.

The gun is not perfect... hence when you anchor it, it digs in and usually causes the decal to buckle at one or more points along the edge or corner of the gun.

Just make a plate out of plexi or lexan slightly larger than the gun flange. This will even out the mounting pressure under the flange of the gun and prevent the decal from puckering.
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#178 3 months ago

Just a little progress... man there is a bunch of crap crammed into this corner !!!

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1 week later
#181 83 days ago

Welp... my wire forms that I had Mike Chestnut (RIP) plate for me years ago had some oxidation spots on them. My fault ... When I took them off I didn’t store them properly

Chris at pinballplating.com saves the day with an exchange for a minty fresh plated set. It was an expense I hadn’t planned but Chris’s work is second to none!!

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#183 83 days ago
Quoted from Davi:

I think it was not your fault. I guess the old one was brass plated, without protective coat. If so, an oxidation is normal, that's why the factory wireform set had also clearcoat.
If the new set is also without clearcoat, then you will see brass oxidation soon.

It was actually clear coated... I think there may have been some areas around the weld (where the long rods connect to the circular forms) where the clear didn't quite cover. Chris's stuff is also clear coated.

#184 81 days ago

Done with the box!

Moving on to the playfied

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#186 81 days ago
Quoted from KornFreak28:

Looks perfect! Feels good doesn't? What kind of rotisserie are you using for the playfield? If you are using the "traditional" one where you rest it on pieces of angle iron and use clamps to secure it, I strongly advise you install the rear panel, the side rails and the rear ball guide (rear ball guide if possible) first. Why?
It is easy to secure the playfield without the rear panel installed. There is lots of real estate where you can mount the clamps and secure the the playfield to the angle iron. Once you install the rear panel though, things get a bit more complicated since now all that real estate is gone. You can only secure the playfield from the sides where there still a bit of angle iron available. BUT add the wood side rails and the rear ball guide and things get even more complicated! Now you have no room for the clamps! PLUS, the angle iron (on the very back) will cover important areas (lamp sockets, one lift gate assembly and the rear lamp pcb board) that you must have access to. It really becomes a nightmare!
What I ended up doing was to map out the areas that I needed to have access to back there. Then I took the piece of angle iron to a local welding shop and had them cut those areas off so I can have access during the install. This allows you to support the playfield PLUS have access back there. BUT...after cutting off those areas the angle iron may become a bit weak so just have them weld a flat metal strip along the rear part of the angle iron to stabilize it.
I found this out the hard way after installing most of it top and bottom! When I had to install the rear components I felt like vomiting. I had to rest the playfield up against the wall so I could take the angle iron to the shop! Then I had to put it all back in the rotisserie.
So it's best to install your rear panel, side rails and if possible the rear ball guide and secure your playfield with that installed from the get go rather that installing them later. The only solution I found was to clamp the playfield from the hole (where the captive ball cage is at) on the right side of the rear panel.
I would show you a picture of the angle iron but it's at my storage unit. I did a little drawing for you. If you have some other playfield rotisserie that doesn't use angle iron then disregard this message

Good advice !!! I know I exactly what you have described and it makes total sense !!!!

#188 81 days ago
Quoted from KornFreak28:

Thanks brother! So are you using that type of rotisserie?


#190 81 days ago
Quoted from KornFreak28:

I once saw one of the top restorers do a very cool modification. He did some sort of attachment where the playfield was supported from the sides. He supported the playfield by using some sort of rod that would go through the hole on playfield slides that go on the sides. The kept the rear area free from any obstructions.

Funny you should say that... as soon as you posted your comment ... this is exactly what came to my mind!

#192 81 days ago
Quoted from Flipper_McGavin:

How long did it take you to disassemble the playfield? Do you desolder everything underneath in order to bathe the wiring harness?

My plan from the beginning was to replace all of the coils, microswitches and lamp sockets... so I left them on. I ran all the wiring through the dishwasher 2 times. Some of the molex connectors were really grimy so I replaced anything that didn't really clean up well. I won't be removing the old stuff until I'm ready to put the new stuff on.

It took me about 2 1/2 hours to tear the playfield down... bagging and tagging everything... but leaving everything on the harnesses.

#194 81 days ago
Quoted from Flipper_McGavin:

That is pretty quick, and your cabinet looks so good now. All your little metal parts look brand new. I had to polish all my metal parts by hand, yes even the screw heads. i was too afraid of losing track where everything went if i dumped it all in a tumbler. The playfield has me even more anxious how to clean up everything.... metal, metal everywhere

Thank you!

I kept zero small metal stuff and all of the cabinet hardware ... everything has been replaced. It cost a little bit more but I didn’t have it in me to deal with it at that level

#195 79 days ago

I used steel H and lift channel for this and it is powder coated...

I also am using the CPR back glass...

The issue is the lift channel doesn’t really grip the glass ... nor should it.

However ... I don’t like it flopping around ... Especially when lifting and removing the back glass.

I got some 1/16 x 1/2 foam tape and I used it as a cushion in the channel. Works like a champ!!

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#196 74 days ago

Playfield prep...

I sanded the bottom side clean. There was lots of soot and solder paste blobs all over it... and a few heat stains.

A quick pass with 80 grit, then 120 and finish with 220. I used my buddies Festool sander which made nice work of it and kept it clean as a whistle. What a sweet rig that is.

I put 3 coats of Varathane matte water based poly on it. I just wanted something to put a light protective coat and would be easy to to work with. I applied it with a foam brush ... just needed to be careul I didn’t drip into the inserts. I’m super happy with the results.

I forgot to take a good before pic in the same lighting (I’ve only got this old one from when I tore it all down... like over a year ago) ... it really looked considerably more grubby than it does in that first pic.

Need to clean the inserts next.
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#198 74 days ago
Quoted from Davi:

Is your pf restoration done? Bottom sanding and insert cleaning are final steps. If you are at the beginning, your pf will see a lot of dirt during upcoming process steps, makes sense to clean the bottom/inserts at the end.
Just my 2 cents.

Yes it is done
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#199 73 days ago

Reese Rails...

Solid oak ... black lacquer, they look great !
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#201 73 days ago
Quoted from Davi:

Nice - I am sure you can also do this.
I did it for Judge Dredd and White Water, material cost was $5 for 2 games.

Oh yes thank you ... I could have ... I just decided that it was one of a million things to do and Taylor Reese is all setup to do them ... and does them well.

#202 72 days ago

I’ve got to solve this problem. This is the right side apron ball guide. One of the captive nuts had popped out long before I owned it. I can try to re-press fit another... don’t think that’s gonna work. Captive nuts are kind of a one and done thing. Sourcing this part will be next to impossible.

It would be cool if I knew a welder who could spot weld an 8/32 nut in its place... anyone? Anyone ?