(Topic ID: 251546)

Indiana Jones Restoration ... "It's not the years honey; it's the mileage."

By Ricochet

4 years ago


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  • 724 posts
  • 46 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 1 year ago by Ricochet
  • Topic is favorited by 76 Pinsiders

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#17 4 years ago

Looking good brother! I restored mine last year and I had a blast! Enjoy!

#21 4 years ago
Quoted from Ricochet:

Didn’t realize I was wearing my Indy shirt! Nice try Lao Che !!!!
First pass sanding done !!! Still some adhesive residue left... I’ll get that with the the 120 then finish up with the 220.
Super pleased at the overall condition of this cabinet. Very little bondo and gluing needed !!! The bottom was a bit wonky... almost like it had been exposed to moisture... the surface was raised and flaky. It’s polished nicely now ![quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Perfect. Hit that cabinet with some primer, sand and repeat each time using a different grit. I started at 220, did another primer coat, then used 400, then 600 and 800 to finish it off. Man, that cabinet felt like silk when it was all said and done. Highly recommend the extra effort. I used (I think the name is) Killz primer.

#25 4 years ago
Quoted from Ricochet:

Yup I do! You know they changed the friggin label on it and it’s not easy to tell the difference between it and the latex version.

Quoted from Ricochet:

Yup I do! You know they changed the friggin label on it and it’s not easy to tell the difference between it and the latex version.

Good to know!

1 week later
#34 4 years ago

Looking good! I’ve never used a gyroscopic before. What’s the big difference?

#46 4 years ago
Quoted from cosmokramer:

Dont forget to install T-nuts in transformer shelf before gluing it in....
I did that once..

#48 4 years ago
Quoted from Ricochet:

I like this idea... I'm thinking about keeping it natural... I like the factory look. Not masking stuff has its appeal!

Agreed. Just keep it natural

#52 4 years ago
Quoted from Ricochet:

Fits poifectly!!! It’s clean ... your seeing dust marks on it.
Feeling good again![quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Hey! The power switch hole should be on the other side!

2 weeks later
#85 4 years ago
Quoted from Ricochet:

All ready for decallization !!! Going away for a week so it’s gonna sit for a bit. I’d rather stay home and finish it
[quoted image]

Beautiful job!

1 week later
#94 4 years ago

When I restored mine, I aligned the top columns and didn't worry about the bottom columns since they are covered by the leg. No big deal! Use a red and blue sharpie to align them.....Just kidding!

#98 4 years ago
Quoted from Ricochet:

Yeah right... you're not one I can picture hitting up your machine with a marker!

Nope! Haha....Those are expensive decals! You are doing great!

#102 4 years ago
Quoted from Ricochet:

Got the art saver spacers and legs on. Pay no mind to the yellow washers ... couldn’t find my black ones.
Here is a little preview of the color. It’s really REALLY hard to capture. There is subtle gold flake in the black.[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Nice touch! Who did that btw?

#104 4 years ago
Quoted from Ricochet:

robertstone0407 ... he suggested the color. I was originally going polished brass but then I saw a few done in black and really felt like I wanted to go that route. Robert suggested this gold (which is mainly black) so its really quite elegant. I will eventually get my good camera to try and capture how it twinkles in the light. Its quite awesome.

Nice to see something different and fresh! Looks freaking awesome!

#106 4 years ago
Quoted from Ricochet:

I splurged on a new transformer. Why not ... at this point you just stop caring about the money.[quoted image]

Cool! Were did you find it?

#112 4 years ago
Quoted from Davi:

C'mon, if I can do it, you can also do it. You have the skill [quoted image][quoted image]

Do these ever go bad? Nice job btw!

#121 4 years ago
Quoted from Ricochet:

When ya think you’re done bondo-ing. You’re not!
Upon close inspection the top edge had a bad cut! Lots of tear out. All better now, plus it made me go around the edge and get rid of all the grain. Should finish nicely.[quoted image]

Looking good! Did you install my planes already?

#125 4 years ago
Quoted from Davi:

And my protectors?

Hahahahaha

#131 4 years ago
Quoted from Ricochet:

Just one more coat of black... and no more spray paint !!![quoted image]

Are you using rattle cans or spray gun?

#133 4 years ago
Quoted from Ricochet:

I went to rattle cans. I used an HVLP turbine sprayer for my RFM restore. Working the HVLP sprayer inside the cabinet is a bitch ... the cans make it easy to maneuver.

Used rattle cans as well and got the perfect finish

F2281916-10C0-4987-B85A-704E22F1725A (resized).pngF2281916-10C0-4987-B85A-704E22F1725A (resized).png
#135 4 years ago

Here’s after screening the warning text

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#137 4 years ago

Thanks! In case you are thinking about adding side decals, now is the time! **Pic shows old lock down bar, which was used to test fit the receiver**
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#145 4 years ago
Quoted from Ricochet:

This thing scares the shit out of me! So far I've only had to do the patent screen... very tiny, easy to do.
I've been staring at this for a few days. Gonna wait until I have the guts and nothing else to do.[quoted image]

I feel your pain! I bought a few sheets of some sort of white-glossy construction paper to practice on. Just tape it to the cabinet head and do one or two practice runs. Use a new sheet for each run. After a few practice runs, you’ll get a good feel for it. Then you can do it for real

#146 4 years ago
Quoted from dmacy:

I hear you on this but it's not too bad. Plan to have back up to clean it up quickly at the ready. I had my wife stand by while I mucked it up my first round. Practice on something like box is what I should have done. Oh, and have plenty of mentioned supplies at the ready to clean up the screens when you're done!
You're making quick progress!

I second this ^^^^^^ Have A LOT of shop towels and paint thinner readily available to clean the screen! Blow dry it but not too close to the screen itself. You don’t want to accidentally peel a letter off. Easy does it.

#158 4 years ago
Quoted from Ricochet:

Finished cabinet decals ... getting the back box together! Once it’s on the machine I’m going to go around the edge with a paint pen to hide the white edge.
Feels good !!!
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Nicely done!

1 week later
#167 4 years ago
Quoted from Ricochet:

Fixed the barcode label.[quoted image][quoted image]

How?!? Share

#169 4 years ago
Quoted from Ricochet:

Enjoy ! Made one set printed offset like mine and another centered. Can be printed on any adhesive label and hand cut. I got a cheap 4mm radius cutter from amazon to round the corners.
Print at 100%
https://drive.google.com/open?id=1wzMHAORKXck0itjs4MI0ZsxqYM36bfAv

Cooool! Thank you!

2 weeks later
#174 4 years ago
Quoted from Ricochet:

Been super sick... everything has come to a screeching halt. Hope to get back in business before the new year. I’ve got some led harness to make for the Indy Plane Rescue Service... so that will take priority before I start this up again.

There are 2 more add ons. I’ll PM you later. No rush my friend! Get well soon

3 weeks later
#185 4 years ago
Quoted from Ricochet:

Done with the box!
Moving on to the playfied[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Looks perfect! Feels good doesn't? What kind of rotisserie are you using for the playfield? If you are using the "traditional" one where you rest it on pieces of angle iron and use clamps to secure it, I strongly advise you install the rear panel, the side rails and the rear ball guide (rear ball guide if possible) first. Why?

It is easy to secure the playfield without the rear panel installed. There is lots of real estate where you can mount the clamps and secure the the playfield to the angle iron. Once you install the rear panel though, things get a bit more complicated since now all that real estate is gone. You can only secure the playfield from the sides where there still a bit of angle iron available. BUT add the wood side rails and the rear ball guide and things get even more complicated! Now you have no room for the clamps! PLUS, the angle iron (on the very back) will cover important areas (lamp sockets, one lift gate assembly and the rear lamp pcb board) that you must have access to. It really becomes a nightmare!

What I ended up doing was to map out the areas that I needed to have access to back there. Then I took the piece of angle iron to a local welding shop and had them cut those areas off so I can have access during the install. This allows you to support the playfield PLUS have access back there. BUT...after cutting off those areas the angle iron may become a bit weak so just have them weld a flat metal strip along the rear part of the angle iron to stabilize it.

I found this out the hard way after installing most of it top and bottom! When it was time to install the rear components I felt like vomiting. I had to rest the playfield up against the wall so I could take the angle iron to the shop! Then I had to put it all back in the rotisserie.

So it's best to install your rear panel, side rails and if possible the rear ball guide and secure your playfield with that installed from the get go rather that installing them later. The only solution I found was to clamp the playfield from the hole (where the captive ball cage is at) on the right side of the rear panel.

I would show you a picture of the angle iron but it's at my storage unit. I did a little drawing for you. If you have some other playfield rotisserie that doesn't use angle iron then disregard this message
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#187 4 years ago
Quoted from Ricochet:

Good advice !!! I know I exactly what you have described and it makes total sense !!!!

Thanks brother! So are you using that type of rotisserie?

#189 4 years ago

I once saw one of the top restorers do a very cool modification. He did some sort of attachment where the playfield was supported from the sides. He supported the playfield by using some sort of rod that would go through the hole on playfield slides that go on the sides. The kept the rear area free from any obstructions.

1 week later
#203 4 years ago

That would work

1 week later
#207 4 years ago
Quoted from Ricochet:

Every socket on the GI/lamp harness has been replaced.
I added the missing lamp to the string up by the INDY roll overs.
I also fixed the new pop bumper lamp sockets. The leads are spot welded and often break so I added a bit of solder to them.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Do you have the part number for the one by the rollovers?

#227 4 years ago
Quoted from Ricochet:

They feel coated. Not entirely sure if the coating is the same as OEM... however they are certainly not plain paper. They are made from a masking tape-like material.

Leave the coating on and only peel about a 1/4 inch or so. Looks much better with the coating on than without since it will wrinkle and stick unevenly on the coil.

#229 4 years ago
Quoted from Ricochet:

I don’t think the coating will come off without destroying the thing.

Sorry I meant the paper backing before they are installed. If you already stuck them on the coil, It’s too late I’m afraid

Wrapping them around the coil with most of the paper backing on makes for a better and cleaner look since you avoid the wrinkles and uneven surfaces.

#231 4 years ago
Quoted from Ricochet:

AHHHH I see.. ok yeah too late. The wrinkling isn't terrible... of all the imperfections in this restoration... this is one I can live with

But since you like splurging......HAHAHA

#251 4 years ago
Quoted from Ricochet:

I’m trying these clear bumper bodies to get more illumination.
I don’t know... I’m not 100% sold on it yet. I’m afraid they will end up looking like crap.
[quoted image][quoted image]

If you want my opinion, yes they will help light up the area but to me, they don’t fit the IJ theme at all and look like crap.

I went with yellow pop skirts and bodies and those fit the game nicely and the area is well lit. Not saying you have to use yellow but clear and red? Leave that to a pin like Diner. This is something you really have to think about since once it’s done, it’s done. There is a reason why you are doubting this decision.

Peter, you know I respect you and your decisions but I have to disagree with you on this one my friend

#257 4 years ago
Quoted from Davi:

No problem, I just don't understand why the yellow is a better choice
If I have to redo, I would add clear body - no color wash of artwork.

I’ll look for the pictures and post them. They really do look nice (IMO)

#258 4 years ago
Quoted from Ricochet:

Here is both ... I’m going with the traditional body.
#1 I don’t like the look of the socket in there. The clear looks cheap to me.
#2 The lighting is harsh (understand this has to do with the lamp) ... the solid body softens the light.
[quoted image][quoted image]

Yeah! Much better! Leave that clear body for TZ or something

#262 4 years ago
Quoted from Ricochet:

Pm your address I’ll send them to you

HAHAHAHAHA

#265 4 years ago
Quoted from Ricochet:

You’re funny ... but I’m being serious... I’m happy to pass them on. Turned out they weren’t for me but I don’t want them sitting around collecting dust.

Ooops I thought you were being funny

#275 4 years ago
Quoted from Ricochet:

Pop bumper playground is done !
All of my coils will be getting connector-ized BTW[quoted image]

What solution did you go with for the rotisserie (real panel area)?

#297 4 years ago
Quoted from Ricochet:

Metal ramp refinish ...
400,600,1000 and maroon scuff pad.
Wet sanded, washed with purple power in between. Final buffing with the scuff pad. Don’t mind the dog toys ... I wanted to get good light on it
Took about 45 minutes.[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

#301 4 years ago
Quoted from Ricochet:

Ramp flap riveted! That’s not a ball trail on that ramp... Is the shadow of the edge.
[quoted image]

What size are those rivets please?

#305 4 years ago
Quoted from okgrak:

Plating a subway? That’s next level

.....And very smart too!

1 week later
#323 4 years ago

Could you please do a little tutorial on how to remove the tiny screw that hold the Idol gate? Thanks!

#325 4 years ago
Quoted from Ricochet:

Yup ... that’s coming up next!

YEEEEESSSSS!!!!!!!

1 week later
#350 4 years ago
Quoted from AaronZOOM:

Let's just say it's my way of giving back to the community. In the early days of owning my IJ, I got a lot of help from community members, most notably Garrett Lee, who literally wrote the book on shopping this pin and saved me countless times when I was in over my head.
Anyway, somebody might have had a problem if I sold 10k pieces of artwork that I don't own the licensing rights to.

Awesome job! PM sent

#351 4 years ago
Quoted from Ricochet:

Replacing the rotator lock... Get the tool for the job... 3/32 roll pin punch. I got a cheap set...
First drive out the old pin... look for one side to be a bit further in and drive from that side.
Notice that one side of the through hole is beveled... this is the side you want to drive the pin into. The tapered edge will allow the pin to go in easier.
Next you need to build the assembly, getting the bracket, spring and C clip in place.
Before driving the pin in with the roll pin punch I used an old spike with a nice flat edge to get it started. A quick tap or two will do. You may be able to skip this step but it’s a bit tricky holding everything in place during the start of the process.
Once it’s started use the punch and tap it all the way in. You want to keep the plastic against the wooden block. Contrary to what you may think the plastic is not brittle ... it’s actually somewhat soft... which is a good thing.
That is it.[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Thanks for the tutorial buddy!

#360 4 years ago
Quoted from Ricochet:

... a little night light... yeah that’s right incandescent flashers!
[quoted image]

How did you test this out of the game? Is the harness already plugged in? I’ve heard of other ways but didn’t try them when I restored mine.

#362 4 years ago
Quoted from Ricochet:

It is not connected to the game... I clipped my bench top power supply right onto the strand (on a lamp socket) directly.

Gotcha! Thanks!

#390 4 years ago
Quoted from Ricochet:

Blacked out around the edge to keep as much light in as possible...
[quoted image][quoted image]

Very impressed

#405 4 years ago
Quoted from Ricochet:

I’ve decided to replace all the IR tx/rx sets that are on the top of the playfield. A good friend recommended this. It is a good suggestion because I wouldn’t be too crazy about having to pull stuff apart to fix these if they turn out to be faulty after all this cleaning and handling.
They are easy to replace. Just take one wire off at a time, trim, re-tin and solder it to the new module. Add the solder to the solder pad before attaching the wire.[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Perfect! You'll sleep better at night because of it What did you say happened to your captive ball wireform? That playfield looks AMAZING!

#410 4 years ago
Quoted from Ricochet:

Glad you thought of it. It’s a pricey operation though. They are making a killing off of those modules!!!
Um yeah I installed the target switch ... removed it to add the wires ... when I re-attached it, the darn bracket just popped off. It must have had a fracture in the weld or something because I didn’t crank on it at all.

You could have kept the old housings but oh well

#413 4 years ago
Quoted from Ricochet:

Put Mylar on the drop target area...
Could not resist putting KornFreak28’s biplane on. Damn!!! Does that fu****g look great on a nice sparklin' clean machine or WHAT?!!!
[quoted image][quoted image]

Yeah baby! Can’t wait for you to enjoy both planes in action!

#414 4 years ago

Might ship this one over to you....it has more of a cherry color

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#420 4 years ago
Quoted from okgrak:

Is the rear bracket of the plane fastened to anything?

Installs and is fastened just like your stock plane. Same thing for the Tiger moth

#423 4 years ago
Quoted from Ricochet:

Just looked back on this thread... I've been at this for 6 months now... unbelievable. Soup to nuts restoration isn't for the faint of heart thats for sure. If you have a bit of OCD like me... it makes it even more difficult because when you want everything to be just so, there is always something to replace/fix/improve/clean.
Of course this isn't full time work but not a day goes by without me touching it or thinking about the next steps. Going to be probably another week or two by the time I get that new captive ball cage turned around.
Once the playfield is complete... I hope to do a video of the installation of the playfield and its first signs of life (hopefully). I still have a color DMD to install... I almost forgot about that.

Don’t forget the OCD board!

#428 4 years ago
Quoted from Ricochet:

Made another one of these for a friend. This is the last one of these I will be making. I’ve been fortunate to have some help on getting this done and it wouldn’t be right to be making these... as the work is not all my own. Not to mention ... it’s a ton of work and really really pricey.
[quoted image]

Excellent work!

#433 4 years ago

Where did you get it at?

#435 4 years ago
Quoted from Ricochet:

The spacer or the ramp?

The ramp itself. Did it come withe the blue steel flap? What’s the purpose for that spacer again?

#437 4 years ago
Quoted from Ricochet:

I got this ramp like 9 years ago. I think I got it from Marco.
The switch bracket that is riveted on the ramp is offset a little too far from the slot in the ramp... so the spacer moves the switch body to the right position so the actuator doesn’t rub against the slot in the ramp.

Gotcha! Nice work!

#447 4 years ago
Quoted from Ricochet:

Welp ... the POA playfield replacement is a bust. The version I have is different than what Mirco is making. The mounting holes for the side rails are in completely different locations.
I could drill my own holes here but some of the holes in the repro would not be covered by the rails ... and consequently would show.
So I’m gonna stick with my existing POA playfield.
I will be selling this Mirco repro at a discount. The finish is beautiful, artwork is a little cock-eyed. LMK if your interested.
[quoted image]

Why did you get it if you don’t mind me asking?

#454 4 years ago

Nope. Check out the screw placement on the proto vs Mirco repro. The repro doesn’t even have holes there

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#458 4 years ago
Quoted from Flipper_McGavin:

Yes. Here is the new Mirco POA playfield with the metal rail and the holes[quoted image]

What about the main playfield? Any issues there?

#461 4 years ago
Quoted from Ricochet:

I would check the screw hole pattern for the apron ball guides. I believe... and I could be wrong... earlier versions used a two piece apron guide vs. the more common three piece. The reason I say this is that I have a two piece guide set I got years ago from a part out of an early model.
This is one data point... I’ve no solid data on this.

I’ll take pics of mine and post them here so you can check on that please.

#462 4 years ago
Quoted from Flipper_McGavin:

I have only put together 90% of the underside, nothing on the top yet. But it is all lining up nicely so far.

Good to hear! All good on the underside too I assume?

#468 4 years ago
Quoted from Ricochet:

Those are pretty! I’m actually getting to the point where I feel this thing needs to start wrapping up Honestly I kind of prefer the plastic rails anyway... I know that’s probably not the popular opinion.
At this point I’m waiting on...
- replacement wireform for captive ball (pinballplating)
- chrome plating of the subway bracket (pinballplating)
- fabrication if back board mirror reflector (me)
It’s probably going to sit for a bit at this point due to our current state of affairs. All is good.

You have other options as well! Check out how I painted mine. Went for the temple brick look and I really like it!

Quoted from Ricochet:

Those are pretty! I’m actually getting to the point where I feel this thing needs to start wrapping up Honestly I kind of prefer the plastic rails anyway... I know that’s probably not the popular opinion.
At this point I’m waiting on...
- replacement wireform for captive ball (pinballplating)
- chrome plating of the subway bracket (pinballplating)
- fabrication if back board mirror reflector (me)
It’s probably going to sit for a bit at this point due to our current state of affairs. All is good.

So you got a replacement captive cage?

Did you have the subway plated for a specific reason or just for kicks?

Check out how I painted my POA plastic rail. Went for the temple brick look

2F285182-57E5-48B9-8EE6-74CA00098466 (resized).jpeg2F285182-57E5-48B9-8EE6-74CA00098466 (resized).jpeg
#473 4 years ago
Quoted from Ricochet:

Dubbing around with the lighting effects of the back panel while I wait...
[quoted image][quoted image]

Second picture for sure

#476 4 years ago
Quoted from Ricochet:

Yeah ... first one is without GI... so it’s not gonna ever look like that
I actually shouldn’t have posted that pic ...it isn’t even that “hot” in real life. The GI balances out the photo for the camera.

What leds are you using?

#478 4 years ago
Quoted from Ricochet:

100% cometpinball Sunlight. Pretty sure they are the best there is... I’ve spent a ton of money on different tones and intensities.

Comet is the best out there for sure! I would try warm whites

#480 4 years ago

Hey, do you happen to know what type and size screws are used for the wooden rails? I forgot already. I need to put some on my repro Mirco playfield to prevent warping...

#484 4 years ago
Quoted from Ricochet:

Added some felt to the edges ...[quoted image][quoted image]

I highly suggest you remove those. I understand the itch to put them on (Don’t ask me how I know) but those felt strips make it REALLY tight down there. They will be rubbing your side decals like crazy and even though they have felt on them, all that rubbing causes them to slowly but surely peel off in areas where it’s really difficult to remove once the playfield is in the cabinet.

That shit happened to me. Never again will I use felt strips to “protect” the sides of the cabinet. The playfield has very little wiggle room and them strips make it that much worse.

Once I removed mine, it was much better and easier to slide the playfield in and out. Just be careful when lifting the playfield and you should be good to go You’ve been warned

#486 4 years ago
Quoted from Ricochet:

Well shit! You know that has been in the back of my brain since day one! I’ve always thought... I wonder if this is going to be too tight ?
Easy fix. THANK YOU!

You know what I call those felt strips? I call them jail bait! Good decision!

#502 4 years ago
Quoted from Ricochet:

Got my back board mirror design done...
Now to get it cut !![quoted image]

#504 4 years ago
Quoted from Ricochet:

Planes are installed and connected aaaaand the playfield is done ! I’ve only to install the subway when it arrives and to connect my back light when it’s done.
[quoted image][quoted image]
[quoted image]
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

#505 4 years ago

I think you got the mounting bracket installed incorrectly. That’s the reason the fighter is tilted to the right. Stand by for confirmation...

280045CB-56A0-4A01-A46C-E8F3075DFE4E (resized).jpeg280045CB-56A0-4A01-A46C-E8F3075DFE4E (resized).jpeg
#506 4 years ago

This is the correct mounting bracket position. Turn yours around 180 degrees.

I’ll PM detailed pics....

F9D986FD-8842-476B-8B5A-D07F08A2B11B (resized).jpegF9D986FD-8842-476B-8B5A-D07F08A2B11B (resized).jpeg
#508 4 years ago
Quoted from Ricochet:

Proper flight path ... thanks my friend!!
I also found that I hadn’t hooked my diverter to the coil![quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

That’s more like it!

#511 4 years ago
Quoted from AaronZOOM:

Man, this is looking great! It's so close now.
Seeing your playfield all put together made me realise something I've never noticed before...
My left ramp is installed too far forward. Always has been. You can see that the "Lite Jackpot" mount is at least a good half-inch forward from the slot in the "Raise Jackpot" plastic next to it that it's supposed to fit into.
My guess is that someone far in the past stripped the original two holes at the front of the ramp that fasten the flap down, so they just moved the ramp forward. That's why the long spacer at the back that connects above the INDY lanes requires me to really pull it far forward to attach the ramp (at the cost of often cracking the red hood plastic). Probably also why I get speedy balls flying out of that wire rail all the time - everything is just slightly off from where it's supposed to be.[quoted image]

Wow! That’s bad! If IJ is your keeper, you should strip the playfield and fix this issue. Fix the stripped holes and put the ramp where it belongs. Another option would be to buy a repro from Mirco and do a total swap

#516 4 years ago
Quoted from Ricochet:

Well there ya go! You know when I was adjusting my POA I was looking at that clearance ... made me go hmm ?

To give more clearance to the POA there are a couple of tricks.

One is to move the metal ramp next to the poa as far left as possible and the second trick is something a lot of people don’t realize mostly because it’s unseen.

Under the poa there’s the harness. That harness is constantly hitting the plastic directly below the poa. This prevents right side movement. I had a picture, I’ll look for it...

What you have to do is remove the poa, note where the harness is hitting the plastic below which is not even visible, then you dremel out or cut out a bigger space for the poa harness so it moves freely without restrictions and allowing your poa to move freely as well. I fortunately caught this when my playfield was still on the rotisserie....

#519 4 years ago
Quoted from Ricochet:

Yes they do! These aren’t even the best that kornfreak28 makes!!!

Thanks for saying so! Ricochet’s planes are early version planes. I now have better painting techniques, better camouflage techniques, pilots and even Indy figures are added thanks to my good friend Jazzbouche. Of course, my good friend Ricochet here contributes to the plane project in a big way by manufacturing all the led harnesses for the fighter planes. Here’s a couple of them

67450E4E-C578-4200-8787-2E001113488C (resized).jpeg67450E4E-C578-4200-8787-2E001113488C (resized).jpegD9DB24BC-D1EE-4392-80A0-AEB85B0482B3 (resized).jpegD9DB24BC-D1EE-4392-80A0-AEB85B0482B3 (resized).jpeg
#521 4 years ago
Quoted from Ricochet:

Here is my pile of playfield junk... there is more than this actually... all the roll over micro switches and lamp sockets... just a ton-o-crap. Some stuff made it through the polishing process before I realized linkages and stops were worn or peened over. Some stuff went through the polishing but didn’t come out to my standards for this project. Very few original fasteners were used... we’re taking no more than what you can count on one hand.
I wanted the new experience at the end of this absurd journey...
[quoted image]

Are u selling? What’s wrong with the right ramp and ruins?

#530 3 years ago
Quoted from Ricochet:

Mmm stainless steel mmm...[quoted image]

What’s keeping you from finishing this restoration?

#532 3 years ago
Quoted from Ricochet:

+Reflective Mirror
+Subway

Oh yeah....

#535 3 years ago
Quoted from Ricochet:

Mirror is cut ! I didn't expect this but my very good friend has come through again!!! Now you can see what I’m after here. The mirror will be mounted on 5/8” standoffs on the back board. The led strips need to be trimmed and aligned.

[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

IMPRESSIVE!!!!!

#538 3 years ago

#540 3 years ago

What leds are those? Impressive....most impressive -Darth Vader

#542 3 years ago

They look awesome! You don't think they are too bright as to bluff some of the art? Hard to tell from pics

#545 3 years ago
Quoted from Ricochet:

Here is the entire playfield with GI illumination using comet 2 SMD sunlight.
Almost there .... once I get my apron wireform back and my subway ... I’ll be ready to finish it !![quoted image]

That is SWEET right there!

#550 3 years ago
Quoted from PtownPin:

I'm looking forward to hearing how you program and like the pin sound shaker

+ 1

#552 3 years ago
Quoted from Ricochet:

First power up!!!!
Ran through all the tests... zero issues (other than the known missing subway components)
I still need to program my LED OCD board... there are a few quirks I need to work out... but overall looks great !!!
Also nice to see the mirrored back-glass lit!
... Color DMD also not yet in.

[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Whoa! That looks incredible! Feels good doesn’t it?

#554 3 years ago
Quoted from Ricochet:

Yup sure does! Man is this playfield bright! I may go with warm whites in the back box... the mirrored back-glass is pulling a lot of red... it’s likely more an issue with the back-glass print. I really like it though ... but I might play with that.

Can’t go wrong with warm whites

#558 3 years ago

I did notice that Henry is not lighting up.....

#560 3 years ago
Quoted from Ricochet:

Yeah I’ve already fixed that ... I’m working on LED OCD settings

Let me know what you think of it.

#562 3 years ago
Quoted from Ricochet:

I can tell you right now ... it’s not having the impact I would expect. It could be one of two things ... my ignorance or the performance of these LEDs (which are standard non-non ghosting ... as they should be). I’m betting on my ignorance.

#575 3 years ago
Quoted from Ricochet:

Fixed the jackpot LED board issue ...[quoted image]

What was it?

#590 3 years ago
Quoted from Ricochet:

Yeah I’ve seen those. I’ve some new ideas for the fighter board (with integration for my good friend who makes the planes) and I would want to make them less expensive... but that’s for another day.

This will be a great improvement!

#602 3 years ago
Quoted from Ricochet:

Just pulled the trigger on GI OCD... I'm thrilled at the performance of the LED OCD... so what the heck! There are no real GI effects on Indy... but the smoothing of the LEDs and the ability to adjust brightness correctly is what I'm after.

What leds are required to get good results with the ocd board? Non-ghosting?

#604 3 years ago
Quoted from Ricochet:

No... you want non non-ghosting leds... regular leds.

I would have to switch them all out

#610 3 years ago
Quoted from Ricochet:

Right ... this is true they will work fine. There is a little less range of dimming capacity but it’s probably hardly noticeable anyway.
It’s such a great product!!!

Sorry for asking but: What do they do that is so good? I keep looking at your video but It’s hard to tell.

3 weeks later
#660 3 years ago
Quoted from Ricochet:

Today is the day!
Gonna wait till everyone is out of the house ... need this to be uninterrupted
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Woohoooo!!!! Congrats! What’s the mylar on the subway for?

#664 3 years ago
Quoted from Ricochet:

Welp.... done.

zero issues.... other than it looks like its as bright as the SUN! Its not ... the camera his having a hell of a time with it... and my video was cut off because I ran out of disk space on the video camera
Please excuse my horrible playing... I'm just batting things around. I need to get back into the game... I've not played it for a while (pushing two years)

For some reason, video is unavailable

#673 3 years ago
Quoted from Ricochet:

Played a few more games...
Center pop started to have a mind of its own... easy fix.
Here is a video of kornfreak28 planes in action! They are awesome !!!

And another video that is a bit more accurate in terms of color

Sweet looking machine! Enjoy!

#680 3 years ago
Quoted from Ricochet:

I’m pushing 50... many of you are likely in the same boat probably had fond memories of the movies of your childhood. For me it was Star Wars and Indiana Jones.
Consequently I like many things of the era... especially vintage electronics and games.
So today I am celebrating my accomplishment with a viewing of probably my favorite movie of all time (even though I’m a Star Wars dork)... Raiders of the Lost Ark
I’m watching it on CED format on my vintage CRT television... It’s not the home theater experience... I have that in the other room. It’s the experience that brings me back... it makes me feel good.
... remember ... It’s not the years... It’s the mileage.

My fav are SW of course BUT I love The last crusade

2 years later
#719 1 year ago
Quoted from Dockside:

I am proud to say that this pin ended up being in my collection. Thanks for an amazing restoration.

You bought it?

#722 1 year ago
Quoted from Ricochet:

You may have purchased an Indiana Jones pin … but I assure you, you didn’t buy this particular pin (as in the one that was restored in this thread topic) … as it is mine and still in my possession.

BOOOM!!!!!

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