(Topic ID: 251546)

Indiana Jones Restoration ... "It’s not the years honey... it’s the mileage"


By Ricochet

6 months ago



Topic Stats

  • 546 posts
  • 40 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 1 day ago by PtownPin
  • Topic is favorited by 54 Pinsiders

You

Linked Games

Topic Gallery

There have been 541 images uploaded to this topic. (View topic image gallery).

5434FD7E-B6F4-4EEF-9C95-848F740532B0 (resized).jpeg
IMG_3733 (resized).JPG
IMG_3731 (resized).JPG
IMG_3730 (resized).JPG
IMG_3729 (resized).JPG
IMG_3725 (resized).JPG
IMG_3715 (resized).JPG
IMG_3714 (resized).JPG
IMG_3721 (resized).JPG
F40BFE84-2E45-476E-BDD9-A1FE152C1360 (resized).jpeg
EFBB8AF1-71AE-4859-9EC7-7237EF12C72C (resized).jpeg
B434E499-5BD0-48E5-ADEE-5C7BA4B5E77A (resized).jpeg
02E371A4-3CA4-4381-9AB2-0425415A4EAF (resized).jpeg
C7042CC9-1F4B-4B60-9134-519E998485E9 (resized).jpeg
6D55721C-E3BB-4FC8-974B-B397E37CBCA0 (resized).jpeg
F421D96B-91AD-45FF-AA23-2AA637755363 (resized).jpeg

You're currently viewing posts by Pinsider kornfreak28.
Click here to go back to viewing the entire thread.

#17 6 months ago

Looking good brother! I restored mine last year and I had a blast! Enjoy!

#21 6 months ago
Quoted from Ricochet:

Didn’t realize I was wearing my Indy shirt! Nice try Lao Che !!!!
First pass sanding done !!! Still some adhesive residue left... I’ll get that with the the 120 then finish up with the 220.
Super pleased at the overall condition of this cabinet. Very little bondo and gluing needed !!! The bottom was a bit wonky... almost like it had been exposed to moisture... the surface was raised and flaky. It’s polished nicely now ![quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Perfect. Hit that cabinet with some primer, sand and repeat each time using a different grit. I started at 220, did another primer coat, then used 400, then 600 and 800 to finish it off. Man, that cabinet felt like silk when it was all said and done. Highly recommend the extra effort. I used (I think the name is) Killz primer.

#25 6 months ago
Quoted from Ricochet:

Yup I do! You know they changed the friggin label on it and it’s not easy to tell the difference between it and the latex version.

Quoted from Ricochet:

Yup I do! You know they changed the friggin label on it and it’s not easy to tell the difference between it and the latex version.

Good to know!

1 week later
#34 6 months ago

Looking good! I’ve never used a gyroscopic before. What’s the big difference?

#46 6 months ago
Quoted from cosmokramer:

Dont forget to install T-nuts in transformer shelf before gluing it in....
I did that once..

#48 6 months ago
Quoted from Ricochet:

I like this idea... I'm thinking about keeping it natural... I like the factory look. Not masking stuff has its appeal!

Agreed. Just keep it natural

#52 6 months ago
Quoted from Ricochet:

Fits poifectly!!! It’s clean ... your seeing dust marks on it.
Feeling good again![quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Hey! The power switch hole should be on the other side!

2 weeks later
#85 5 months ago
Quoted from Ricochet:

All ready for decallization !!! Going away for a week so it’s gonna sit for a bit. I’d rather stay home and finish it
[quoted image]

Beautiful job!

1 week later
#94 5 months ago

When I restored mine, I aligned the top columns and didn't worry about the bottom columns since they are covered by the leg. No big deal! Use a red and blue sharpie to align them.....Just kidding!

#98 5 months ago
Quoted from Ricochet:

Yeah right... you're not one I can picture hitting up your machine with a marker!

Nope! Haha....Those are expensive decals! You are doing great!

#102 5 months ago
Quoted from Ricochet:

Got the art saver spacers and legs on. Pay no mind to the yellow washers ... couldn’t find my black ones.
Here is a little preview of the color. It’s really REALLY hard to capture. There is subtle gold flake in the black.[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Nice touch! Who did that btw?

#104 5 months ago
Quoted from Ricochet:

robertstone0407 ... he suggested the color. I was originally going polished brass but then I saw a few done in black and really felt like I wanted to go that route. Robert suggested this gold (which is mainly black) so its really quite elegant. I will eventually get my good camera to try and capture how it twinkles in the light. Its quite awesome.

Nice to see something different and fresh! Looks freaking awesome!

#106 5 months ago
Quoted from Ricochet:

I splurged on a new transformer. Why not ... at this point you just stop caring about the money.[quoted image]

Cool! Were did you find it?

#112 5 months ago
Quoted from Davi:

C'mon, if I can do it, you can also do it. You have the skill [quoted image][quoted image]

Do these ever go bad? Nice job btw!

#121 5 months ago
Quoted from Ricochet:

When ya think you’re done bondo-ing. You’re not!
Upon close inspection the top edge had a bad cut! Lots of tear out. All better now, plus it made me go around the edge and get rid of all the grain. Should finish nicely.[quoted image]

Looking good! Did you install my planes already?

#125 5 months ago
Quoted from Davi:

And my protectors?

Hahahahaha

#131 5 months ago
Quoted from Ricochet:

Just one more coat of black... and no more spray paint !!![quoted image]

Are you using rattle cans or spray gun?

#133 5 months ago
Quoted from Ricochet:

I went to rattle cans. I used an HVLP turbine sprayer for my RFM restore. Working the HVLP sprayer inside the cabinet is a bitch ... the cans make it easy to maneuver.

Used rattle cans as well and got the perfect finish

F2281916-10C0-4987-B85A-704E22F1725A (resized).png
#135 4 months ago

Here’s after screening the warning text

64D4D2AD-61B6-4E17-95C7-1FFF5E2ECF31 (resized).png
#137 4 months ago

Thanks! In case you are thinking about adding side decals, now is the time! **Pic shows old lock down bar, which was used to test fit the receiver**
6F958AEF-8FCF-4031-9419-B968927416C9 (resized).jpeg

#145 4 months ago
Quoted from Ricochet:

This thing scares the shit out of me! So far I've only had to do the patent screen... very tiny, easy to do.
I've been staring at this for a few days. Gonna wait until I have the guts and nothing else to do.[quoted image]

I feel your pain! I bought a few sheets of some sort of white-glossy construction paper to practice on. Just tape it to the cabinet head and do one or two practice runs. Use a new sheet for each run. After a few practice runs, you’ll get a good feel for it. Then you can do it for real

#146 4 months ago
Quoted from dmacy:

I hear you on this but it's not too bad. Plan to have back up to clean it up quickly at the ready. I had my wife stand by while I mucked it up my first round. Practice on something like box is what I should have done. Oh, and have plenty of mentioned supplies at the ready to clean up the screens when you're done!
You're making quick progress!

I second this ^^^^^^ Have A LOT of shop towels and paint thinner readily available to clean the screen! Blow dry it but not too close to the screen itself. You don’t want to accidentally peel a letter off. Easy does it.

#158 4 months ago
Quoted from Ricochet:

Finished cabinet decals ... getting the back box together! Once it’s on the machine I’m going to go around the edge with a paint pen to hide the white edge.
Feels good !!!
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Nicely done!

1 week later
#167 4 months ago
Quoted from Ricochet:

Fixed the barcode label.[quoted image][quoted image]

How?!? Share

#169 4 months ago
Quoted from Ricochet:

Enjoy ! Made one set printed offset like mine and another centered. Can be printed on any adhesive label and hand cut. I got a cheap 4mm radius cutter from amazon to round the corners.
Print at 100%
https://drive.google.com/open?id=1wzMHAORKXck0itjs4MI0ZsxqYM36bfAv

Cooool! Thank you!

2 weeks later
#174 3 months ago
Quoted from Ricochet:

Been super sick... everything has come to a screeching halt. Hope to get back in business before the new year. I’ve got some led harness to make for the Indy Plane Rescue Service... so that will take priority before I start this up again.

There are 2 more add ons. I’ll PM you later. No rush my friend! Get well soon

3 weeks later
#185 89 days ago
Quoted from Ricochet:

Done with the box!
Moving on to the playfied[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Looks perfect! Feels good doesn't? What kind of rotisserie are you using for the playfield? If you are using the "traditional" one where you rest it on pieces of angle iron and use clamps to secure it, I strongly advise you install the rear panel, the side rails and the rear ball guide (rear ball guide if possible) first. Why?

It is easy to secure the playfield without the rear panel installed. There is lots of real estate where you can mount the clamps and secure the the playfield to the angle iron. Once you install the rear panel though, things get a bit more complicated since now all that real estate is gone. You can only secure the playfield from the sides where there still a bit of angle iron available. BUT add the wood side rails and the rear ball guide and things get even more complicated! Now you have no room for the clamps! PLUS, the angle iron (on the very back) will cover important areas (lamp sockets, one lift gate assembly and the rear lamp pcb board) that you must have access to. It really becomes a nightmare!

What I ended up doing was to map out the areas that I needed to have access to back there. Then I took the piece of angle iron to a local welding shop and had them cut those areas off so I can have access during the install. This allows you to support the playfield PLUS have access back there. BUT...after cutting off those areas the angle iron may become a bit weak so just have them weld a flat metal strip along the rear part of the angle iron to stabilize it.

I found this out the hard way after installing most of it top and bottom! When it was time to install the rear components I felt like vomiting. I had to rest the playfield up against the wall so I could take the angle iron to the shop! Then I had to put it all back in the rotisserie.

So it's best to install your rear panel, side rails and if possible the rear ball guide and secure your playfield with that installed from the get go rather that installing them later. The only solution I found was to clamp the playfield from the hole (where the captive ball cage is at) on the right side of the rear panel.

I would show you a picture of the angle iron but it's at my storage unit. I did a little drawing for you. If you have some other playfield rotisserie that doesn't use angle iron then disregard this message
C4B1542A-2FFA-444D-B782-F9DF8B38ECE5 (resized).jpegA3FA944F-081A-4704-A310-F674B42D4697 (resized).jpeg

#187 89 days ago
Quoted from Ricochet:

Good advice !!! I know I exactly what you have described and it makes total sense !!!!

Thanks brother! So are you using that type of rotisserie?

#189 89 days ago

I once saw one of the top restorers do a very cool modification. He did some sort of attachment where the playfield was supported from the sides. He supported the playfield by using some sort of rod that would go through the hole on playfield slides that go on the sides. The kept the rear area free from any obstructions.

1 week later
#203 80 days ago

That would work

1 week later
#207 72 days ago
Quoted from Ricochet:

Every socket on the GI/lamp harness has been replaced.
I added the missing lamp to the string up by the INDY roll overs.
I also fixed the new pop bumper lamp sockets. The leads are spot welded and often break so I added a bit of solder to them.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Do you have the part number for the one by the rollovers?

#227 70 days ago
Quoted from Ricochet:

They feel coated. Not entirely sure if the coating is the same as OEM... however they are certainly not plain paper. They are made from a masking tape-like material.

Leave the coating on and only peel about a 1/4 inch or so. Looks much better with the coating on than without since it will wrinkle and stick unevenly on the coil.

#229 70 days ago
Quoted from Ricochet:

I don’t think the coating will come off without destroying the thing.

Sorry I meant the paper backing before they are installed. If you already stuck them on the coil, It’s too late I’m afraid

Wrapping them around the coil with most of the paper backing on makes for a better and cleaner look since you avoid the wrinkles and uneven surfaces.

#231 70 days ago
Quoted from Ricochet:

AHHHH I see.. ok yeah too late. The wrinkling isn't terrible... of all the imperfections in this restoration... this is one I can live with

But since you like splurging......HAHAHA

#251 68 days ago
Quoted from Ricochet:

I’m trying these clear bumper bodies to get more illumination.
I don’t know... I’m not 100% sold on it yet. I’m afraid they will end up looking like crap.
[quoted image][quoted image]

If you want my opinion, yes they will help light up the area but to me, they don’t fit the IJ theme at all and look like crap.

I went with yellow pop skirts and bodies and those fit the game nicely and the area is well lit. Not saying you have to use yellow but clear and red? Leave that to a pin like Diner. This is something you really have to think about since once it’s done, it’s done. There is a reason why you are doubting this decision.

Peter, you know I respect you and your decisions but I have to disagree with you on this one my friend

#257 68 days ago
Quoted from Davi:

No problem, I just don't understand why the yellow is a better choice
If I have to redo, I would add clear body - no color wash of artwork.

I’ll look for the pictures and post them. They really do look nice (IMO)

#258 68 days ago
Quoted from Ricochet:

Here is both ... I’m going with the traditional body.
#1 I don’t like the look of the socket in there. The clear looks cheap to me.
#2 The lighting is harsh (understand this has to do with the lamp) ... the solid body softens the light.
[quoted image][quoted image]

Yeah! Much better! Leave that clear body for TZ or something

#262 67 days ago
Quoted from Ricochet:

Pm your address I’ll send them to you

HAHAHAHAHA

#265 67 days ago
Quoted from Ricochet:

You’re funny ... but I’m being serious... I’m happy to pass them on. Turned out they weren’t for me but I don’t want them sitting around collecting dust.

Ooops I thought you were being funny

#275 64 days ago
Quoted from Ricochet:

Pop bumper playground is done !
All of my coils will be getting connector-ized BTW[quoted image]

What solution did you go with for the rotisserie (real panel area)?

#297 58 days ago
Quoted from Ricochet:

Metal ramp refinish ...
400,600,1000 and maroon scuff pad.
Wet sanded, washed with purple power in between. Final buffing with the scuff pad. Don’t mind the dog toys ... I wanted to get good light on it
Took about 45 minutes.[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

#301 58 days ago
Quoted from Ricochet:

Ramp flap riveted! That’s not a ball trail on that ramp... Is the shadow of the edge.
[quoted image]

What size are those rivets please?

#305 58 days ago
Quoted from okgrak:

Plating a subway? That’s next level

.....And very smart too!

1 week later
#323 50 days ago

Could you please do a little tutorial on how to remove the tiny screw that hold the Idol gate? Thanks!

#325 50 days ago
Quoted from Ricochet:

Yup ... that’s coming up next!

YEEEEESSSSS!!!!!!!

1 week later
#350 43 days ago
Quoted from AaronZOOM:

Let's just say it's my way of giving back to the community. In the early days of owning my IJ, I got a lot of help from community members, most notably Garrett Lee, who literally wrote the book on shopping this pin and saved me countless times when I was in over my head.
Anyway, somebody might have had a problem if I sold 10k pieces of artwork that I don't own the licensing rights to.

Awesome job! PM sent

#351 43 days ago
Quoted from Ricochet:

Replacing the rotator lock... Get the tool for the job... 3/32 roll pin punch. I got a cheap set...
First drive out the old pin... look for one side to be a bit further in and drive from that side.
Notice that one side of the through hole is beveled... this is the side you want to drive the pin into. The tapered edge will allow the pin to go in easier.
Next you need to build the assembly, getting the bracket, spring and C clip in place.
Before driving the pin in with the roll pin punch I used an old spike with a nice flat edge to get it started. A quick tap or two will do. You may be able to skip this step but it’s a bit tricky holding everything in place during the start of the process.
Once it’s started use the punch and tap it all the way in. You want to keep the plastic against the wooden block. Contrary to what you may think the plastic is not brittle ... it’s actually somewhat soft... which is a good thing.
That is it.[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Thanks for the tutorial buddy!

#360 38 days ago
Quoted from Ricochet:

... a little night light... yeah that’s right incandescent flashers!
[quoted image]

How did you test this out of the game? Is the harness already plugged in? I’ve heard of other ways but didn’t try them when I restored mine.

#362 38 days ago
Quoted from Ricochet:

It is not connected to the game... I clipped my bench top power supply right onto the strand (on a lamp socket) directly.

Gotcha! Thanks!

#390 32 days ago
Quoted from Ricochet:

Blacked out around the edge to keep as much light in as possible...
[quoted image][quoted image]

Very impressed

#405 29 days ago
Quoted from Ricochet:

I’ve decided to replace all the IR tx/rx sets that are on the top of the playfield. A good friend recommended this. It is a good suggestion because I wouldn’t be too crazy about having to pull stuff apart to fix these if they turn out to be faulty after all this cleaning and handling.
They are easy to replace. Just take one wire off at a time, trim, re-tin and solder it to the new module. Add the solder to the solder pad before attaching the wire.[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Perfect! You'll sleep better at night because of it What did you say happened to your captive ball wireform? That playfield looks AMAZING!

#410 28 days ago
Quoted from Ricochet:

Glad you thought of it. It’s a pricey operation though. They are making a killing off of those modules!!!
Um yeah I installed the target switch ... removed it to add the wires ... when I re-attached it, the darn bracket just popped off. It must have had a fracture in the weld or something because I didn’t crank on it at all.

You could have kept the old housings but oh well

#413 28 days ago
Quoted from Ricochet:

Put Mylar on the drop target area...
Could not resist putting KornFreak28’s biplane on. Damn!!! Does that fu****g look great on a nice sparklin' clean machine or WHAT?!!!
[quoted image][quoted image]

Yeah baby! Can’t wait for you to enjoy both planes in action!

#414 28 days ago

Might ship this one over to you....it has more of a cherry color

6E554BE6-B117-43EF-ADC1-2EC6C3CA4DBC (resized).jpeg
#420 27 days ago
Quoted from okgrak:

Is the rear bracket of the plane fastened to anything?

Installs and is fastened just like your stock plane. Same thing for the Tiger moth

#423 25 days ago
Quoted from Ricochet:

Just looked back on this thread... I've been at this for 6 months now... unbelievable. Soup to nuts restoration isn't for the faint of heart thats for sure. If you have a bit of OCD like me... it makes it even more difficult because when you want everything to be just so, there is always something to replace/fix/improve/clean.
Of course this isn't full time work but not a day goes by without me touching it or thinking about the next steps. Going to be probably another week or two by the time I get that new captive ball cage turned around.
Once the playfield is complete... I hope to do a video of the installation of the playfield and its first signs of life (hopefully). I still have a color DMD to install... I almost forgot about that.

Don’t forget the OCD board!

#428 23 days ago
Quoted from Ricochet:

Made another one of these for a friend. This is the last one of these I will be making. I’ve been fortunate to have some help on getting this done and it wouldn’t be right to be making these... as the work is not all my own. Not to mention ... it’s a ton of work and really really pricey.
[quoted image]

Excellent work!

#433 21 days ago

Where did you get it at?

#435 21 days ago
Quoted from Ricochet:

The spacer or the ramp?

The ramp itself. Did it come withe the blue steel flap? What’s the purpose for that spacer again?

#437 21 days ago
Quoted from Ricochet:

I got this ramp like 9 years ago. I think I got it from Marco.
The switch bracket that is riveted on the ramp is offset a little too far from the slot in the ramp... so the spacer moves the switch body to the right position so the actuator doesn’t rub against the slot in the ramp.

Gotcha! Nice work!

#447 20 days ago
Quoted from Ricochet:

Welp ... the POA playfield replacement is a bust. The version I have is different than what Mirco is making. The mounting holes for the side rails are in completely different locations.
I could drill my own holes here but some of the holes in the repro would not be covered by the rails ... and consequently would show.
So I’m gonna stick with my existing POA playfield.
I will be selling this Mirco repro at a discount. The finish is beautiful, artwork is a little cock-eyed. LMK if your interested.
[quoted image]

Why did you get it if you don’t mind me asking?

#454 20 days ago

Nope. Check out the screw placement on the proto vs Mirco repro. The repro doesn’t even have holes there

36C92919-3CC9-477B-AD69-D72836BFC913 (resized).jpeg5BF94419-4C02-4512-AEBC-EA661D2FA4BB (resized).jpeg
#458 20 days ago
Quoted from Flipper_McGavin:

Yes. Here is the new Mirco POA playfield with the metal rail and the holes[quoted image]

What about the main playfield? Any issues there?

#461 20 days ago
Quoted from Ricochet:

I would check the screw hole pattern for the apron ball guides. I believe... and I could be wrong... earlier versions used a two piece apron guide vs. the more common three piece. The reason I say this is that I have a two piece guide set I got years ago from a part out of an early model.
This is one data point... I’ve no solid data on this.

I’ll take pics of mine and post them here so you can check on that please.

#462 20 days ago
Quoted from Flipper_McGavin:

I have only put together 90% of the underside, nothing on the top yet. But it is all lining up nicely so far.

Good to hear! All good on the underside too I assume?

#468 19 days ago
Quoted from Ricochet:

Those are pretty! I’m actually getting to the point where I feel this thing needs to start wrapping up Honestly I kind of prefer the plastic rails anyway... I know that’s probably not the popular opinion.
At this point I’m waiting on...
- replacement wireform for captive ball (pinballplating)
- chrome plating of the subway bracket (pinballplating)
- fabrication if back board mirror reflector (me)
It’s probably going to sit for a bit at this point due to our current state of affairs. All is good.

You have other options as well! Check out how I painted mine. Went for the temple brick look and I really like it!

Quoted from Ricochet:

Those are pretty! I’m actually getting to the point where I feel this thing needs to start wrapping up Honestly I kind of prefer the plastic rails anyway... I know that’s probably not the popular opinion.
At this point I’m waiting on...
- replacement wireform for captive ball (pinballplating)
- chrome plating of the subway bracket (pinballplating)
- fabrication if back board mirror reflector (me)
It’s probably going to sit for a bit at this point due to our current state of affairs. All is good.

So you got a replacement captive cage?

Did you have the subway plated for a specific reason or just for kicks?

Check out how I painted my POA plastic rail. Went for the temple brick look

2F285182-57E5-48B9-8EE6-74CA00098466 (resized).jpeg
#473 17 days ago
Quoted from Ricochet:

Dubbing around with the lighting effects of the back panel while I wait...
[quoted image][quoted image]

Second picture for sure

#476 17 days ago
Quoted from Ricochet:

Yeah ... first one is without GI... so it’s not gonna ever look like that
I actually shouldn’t have posted that pic ...it isn’t even that “hot” in real life. The GI balances out the photo for the camera.

What leds are you using?

#478 17 days ago
Quoted from Ricochet:

100% cometpinball Sunlight. Pretty sure they are the best there is... I’ve spent a ton of money on different tones and intensities.

Comet is the best out there for sure! I would try warm whites

#480 17 days ago

Hey, do you happen to know what type and size screws are used for the wooden rails? I forgot already. I need to put some on my repro Mirco playfield to prevent warping...

#484 16 days ago
Quoted from Ricochet:

Added some felt to the edges ...[quoted image][quoted image]

I highly suggest you remove those. I understand the itch to put them on (Don’t ask me how I know) but those felt strips make it REALLY tight down there. They will be rubbing your side decals like crazy and even though they have felt on them, all that rubbing causes them to slowly but surely peel off in areas where it’s really difficult to remove once the playfield is in the cabinet.

That shit happened to me. Never again will I use felt strips to “protect” the sides of the cabinet. The playfield has very little wiggle room and them strips make it that much worse.

Once I removed mine, it was much better and easier to slide the playfield in and out. Just be careful when lifting the playfield and you should be good to go You’ve been warned

#486 16 days ago
Quoted from Ricochet:

Well shit! You know that has been in the back of my brain since day one! I’ve always thought... I wonder if this is going to be too tight ?
Easy fix. THANK YOU!

You know what I call those felt strips? I call them jail bait! Good decision!

#502 13 days ago
Quoted from Ricochet:

Got my back board mirror design done...
Now to get it cut !![quoted image]

#504 13 days ago
Quoted from Ricochet:

Planes are installed and connected aaaaand the playfield is done ! I’ve only to install the subway when it arrives and to connect my back light when it’s done.
[quoted image][quoted image]
[quoted image]
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

#505 13 days ago

I think you got the mounting bracket installed incorrectly. That’s the reason the fighter is tilted to the right. Stand by for confirmation...

280045CB-56A0-4A01-A46C-E8F3075DFE4E (resized).jpeg
#506 13 days ago

This is the correct mounting bracket position. Turn yours around 180 degrees.

I’ll PM detailed pics....

F9D986FD-8842-476B-8B5A-D07F08A2B11B (resized).jpeg
#508 13 days ago
Quoted from Ricochet:

Proper flight path ... thanks my friend!!
I also found that I hadn’t hooked my diverter to the coil![quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

That’s more like it!

#511 12 days ago
Quoted from AaronZOOM:

Man, this is looking great! It's so close now.
Seeing your playfield all put together made me realise something I've never noticed before...
My left ramp is installed too far forward. Always has been. You can see that the "Lite Jackpot" mount is at least a good half-inch forward from the slot in the "Raise Jackpot" plastic next to it that it's supposed to fit into.
My guess is that someone far in the past stripped the original two holes at the front of the ramp that fasten the flap down, so they just moved the ramp forward. That's why the long spacer at the back that connects above the INDY lanes requires me to really pull it far forward to attach the ramp (at the cost of often cracking the red hood plastic). Probably also why I get speedy balls flying out of that wire rail all the time - everything is just slightly off from where it's supposed to be.[quoted image]

Wow! That’s bad! If IJ is your keeper, you should strip the playfield and fix this issue. Fix the stripped holes and put the ramp where it belongs. Another option would be to buy a repro from Mirco and do a total swap

#516 12 days ago
Quoted from Ricochet:

Well there ya go! You know when I was adjusting my POA I was looking at that clearance ... made me go hmm ?

To give more clearance to the POA there are a couple of tricks.

One is to move the metal ramp next to the poa as far left as possible and the second trick is something a lot of people don’t realize mostly because it’s unseen.

Under the poa there’s the harness. That harness is constantly hitting the plastic directly below the poa. This prevents right side movement. I had a picture, I’ll look for it...

What you have to do is remove the poa, note where the harness is hitting the plastic below which is not even visible, then you dremel out or cut out a bigger space for the poa harness so it moves freely without restrictions and allowing your poa to move freely as well. I fortunately caught this when my playfield was still on the rotisserie....

#519 12 days ago
Quoted from Ricochet:

Yes they do! These aren’t even the best that kornfreak28 makes!!!

Thanks for saying so! Ricochet’s planes are early version planes. I now have better painting techniques, better camouflage techniques, pilots and even Indy figures are added thanks to my good friend Jazzbouche. Of course, my good friend Ricochet here contributes to the plane project in a big way by manufacturing all the led harnesses for the fighter planes. Here’s a couple of them

67450E4E-C578-4200-8787-2E001113488C (resized).jpegD9DB24BC-D1EE-4392-80A0-AEB85B0482B3 (resized).jpeg
#521 12 days ago
Quoted from Ricochet:

Here is my pile of playfield junk... there is more than this actually... all the roll over micro switches and lamp sockets... just a ton-o-crap. Some stuff made it through the polishing process before I realized linkages and stops were worn or peened over. Some stuff went through the polishing but didn’t come out to my standards for this project. Very few original fasteners were used... we’re taking no more than what you can count on one hand.
I wanted the new experience at the end of this absurd journey...
[quoted image]

Are u selling? What’s wrong with the right ramp and ruins?

#530 6 days ago
Quoted from Ricochet:

Mmm stainless steel mmm...[quoted image]

What’s keeping you from finishing this restoration?

#532 6 days ago
Quoted from Ricochet:

+Reflective Mirror
+Subway

Oh yeah....

#535 5 days ago
Quoted from Ricochet:

Mirror is cut ! I didn't expect this but my very good friend has come through again!!! Now you can see what I’m after here. The mirror will be mounted on 5/8” standoffs on the back board. The led strips need to be trimmed and aligned.

[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

IMPRESSIVE!!!!!

#540 4 days ago

What leds are those? Impressive....most impressive -Darth Vader

#542 4 days ago

They look awesome! You don't think they are too bright as to bluff some of the art? Hard to tell from pics

#545 1 day ago
Quoted from Ricochet:

Here is the entire playfield with GI illumination using comet 2 SMD sunlight.
Almost there .... once I get my apron wireform back and my subway ... I’ll be ready to finish it !![quoted image]

That is SWEET right there!

Promoted items from the Pinside Marketplace
From: $ 40.00
Cabinet - Other
Rock Custom Pinball

You're currently viewing posts by Pinsider kornfreak28.
Click here to go back to viewing the entire thread.

Hey there! Got a moment?

Great to see you're enjoying Pinside! Did you know Pinside is able to run thanks to donations from our visitors? Please donate to Pinside, support the site and get anext to your username to show for it! Donate to Pinside