(Topic ID: 251546)

Indiana Jones Restoration ... "It's not the years honey; it's the mileage."

By Ricochet

4 years ago


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  • 724 posts
  • 46 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 1 year ago by Ricochet
  • Topic is favorited by 76 Pinsiders

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You're currently viewing posts by Pinsider davi.
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#75 4 years ago
Quoted from Ricochet:

The tedium is done !!!!
Will be blocking and masking tomorrow !!![quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Nice work!

2 weeks later
#93 4 years ago
Quoted from Ricochet:

Yup pretty much what I did ... I’m satisfied. When the leg and all the trim is on it will be fine. I also am good with it because I’m confident I tried all of the options.
Besides these old new decals look spectacular!!! As odd colors yellow and orange are ... I just love the motif of them in this artwork.

You did it right. Bottom section is covered by legs.
You are now officially better than Williams
Look at this flyer...

Screenshot_20191101-091116_Chrome (resized).jpgScreenshot_20191101-091116_Chrome (resized).jpg
#108 4 years ago
Quoted from Ricochet:

I splurged on a new transformer. Why not ... at this point you just stop caring about the money.[quoted image]

What's wrong about old one?

#110 4 years ago
Quoted from Ricochet:

Nothing ... just grimy.

C'mon, if I can do it, you can also do it. You have the skill

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#123 4 years ago
Quoted from KornFreak28:

Looking good! Did you install my planes already?

And my protectors?

1 week later
#148 4 years ago
Quoted from Ricochet:

Got myself a laminated tech chart. I bought one from Marco... nothing special about it... claims to be vinyl. I lost it ... I wasn’t impressed anyway.
So here are three... the top left is the original printed on some really durable stiff ... almost plastic. Only glaring problem is that the circuit board diagram is way off. This has been corrected in the reprints and on-line copies.
Top right is from Treasurecove (I got years ago). It’s almost the same as the original. It’s laminated adhesive backed. It has the circuit board orientation fixed. I think this is the one I’m going with.
The bottom one is the one I downloaded from Peter’s site www.inkochnito.nl and had printed and laminated. It really fits nicely on an 11x17 but when printed on 8 1/2x11 is a little crunched.[quoted image]

Original is original...
It's always good to keep a piece of history.

1 month later
#182 4 years ago
Quoted from Ricochet:

Welp... my wire forms that I had Mike Chestnut (RIP) plate for me years ago had some oxidation spots on them. My fault ... When I took them off I didn’t store them properly
Chris at pinballplating.com saves the day with an exchange for a minty fresh plated set. It was an expense I hadn’t planned but Chris’s work is second to none!![quoted image]

I think it was not your fault. I guess the old one was brass plated, without protective coat. If so, an oxidation is normal, that's why the factory wireform set had also clearcoat.
If the new set is also without clearcoat, then you will see brass oxidation soon.

1 week later
-1
#197 4 years ago
Quoted from Ricochet:

Playfield prep...
I sanded the bottom side clean. There were lots of soot and solder paste blobs all over it... and a few heat stains.
A quick pass with 80 grit, then 120 and finish with 220. I used my buddies Festool sander which made nice work of it and kept it clean as a whistle. What a sweet rig that is.
I put 3 coats of Varathane matte water based poly on it. I just wanted something to put a light protective coat and would be easy to to work with. I applied it with a foam brush ... just needed to be carful I didn’t drip into the inserts. I’m super happy with the results.
I forgot to take a good before pic in the same lighting ... it really looked considerably more grubby than it does in that first pic.
Need to clean the inserts next.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Is your pf restoration done? Bottom sanding and insert cleaning are final steps. If you are at the beginning, your pf will see a lot of dirt during upcoming process steps, makes sense to clean the bottom/inserts at the end.
Just my 2 cents.

#200 4 years ago
Quoted from Ricochet:

Reese Rails...
Solid oak ... black lacquer, they look great !
[quoted image]

Nice - I am sure you can also do this.
I did it for Judge Dredd and White Water, material cost was $5 for 2 games.

1 week later
#222 4 years ago
Quoted from Ricochet:

Planetary Pinball... go to parts store and search for coil wrappers. They have sets for most of the popular games and they are of very good quality. They are pricey in my opinion... but it is what it is.

...or just buy colored A4 paper, and print your own wrappers based on Inkochnito's file. $0.2 per machine.

#245 4 years ago
Quoted from Ricochet:

I’m trying these clear bumper bodies to get more illumination.
I don’t know... I’m not 100% sold on it yet. I’m afraid they will end up looking like crap.
[quoted image][quoted image]

Don't worry, this is good. I have red transparent in my IJ.
I see you go on LED way. I have ended up incandescent at GI, it gives a charm back to Indy, LED was too steril to me. IJ has many plastics and GI bulbs. The light dispersion of incandescent bulb is much better (more even). A freshly restored and cleaned pin, like yours can be lit well by standard new bulbs.

#248 4 years ago
Quoted from Ricochet:

Yup I’m totally with you on the incandescent lamps. The sunlights are really quite good and I’m going to run with them for a bit to see how I like it. Also I’m going to be using the LEDOCD module to control my insert LEDs.

Another hint: the bottom center of pf is dark, a starpost light helps (I don't like spotlights).

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/ij-williams-you-cheat-dr-jones-club/page/74#post-4610841

#255 4 years ago
Quoted from KornFreak28:

If you want my opinion, yes they will help light up the area but to me, they don’t fit the IJ theme at all and look like crap.
I went with yellow pop skirts and bodies and those fit the game nicely and the area is well lit. Not saying you have to use yellow but clear and red? Leave that to a pin like Diner. This is something you really have to think about since once it’s done, it’s done. There is a reason why you are doubting this decision.
Peter, you know I respect you and your decisions but I have to disagree with you on this one my friend

No problem, I just don't understand why the yellow is a better choice
If I have to redo, I would add clear body - no color wash of artwork.

#264 4 years ago
Quoted from Mr_Frog:

Yeah, the reason I went with the GI OCD on the Jokerz! is that there are some instances where it flashes the GI with relays (Extra Ball, ball lock) and it's damn near seizure inducing due to the nature of an LED's on/off cycle. The GI OCD returned the behavior to how they behave with incandescents, with the added benefit of brightening up the table. I used sunlight white LEDs in my game as well for places where it made sense, and the color temperature is basically spot on.
I just recently got a Judge Dredd where the previous owner did a lot of LEDs in the game, and some of the choices he made work OK...some not so much, so I have some tweaking down the road that I'm going to have to do to make that table shine. Side question: where did you get those lit posts? JD is notorious for having a dark lower playfield and I'd like to try some of those and experiment with different lighting options down there. The previous owner had spotlights with horrible purple lights, so I took those out about an hour after I set the game up at my house, but may end up reinstalling them with a different color light to get some more light down there.

Just look for "Star post light" in webshops, like:
https://www.pinballlife.com/star-post-lighting-kit-set-of-2-lights.html

You can also buy from Comet I guess. I have these from Aliexpress, sunlight versions, much cheaper.

I am also working on Judge Dredd. This pin has only about 16 GI sockets (including 4 at slings), so I have to also apply additional light. These star post lights are also applicable for double star posts. Please share your experience about this later.

This is my White Water with star post lights, the PCB is not visible.
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#270 4 years ago
Quoted from Ricochet:

Experimenting cutting an acrylic back board. Still have some tweaking to do before it’s 100%
0.75 cast acrylic is some hard stuff!

[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Nice...

#285 4 years ago
Quoted from Ricochet:

My Titan kit. I don’t like colored rubber rings... in fact I think the stock black looks great!
My major deviation is with the posts. I’ve chosen to make most of the posts green ... except the two for the captive ball, those will stay stock yellow. I have also changed the two posts around the center target to red.
I will be using red standard rubber for the flippers though.
If I don’t like the way it looks... all the colored (except yellows) will go stock black.
BTW I did create this kit in the Titan database. It does include the flipper rubbers even though I personally don’t use them.
[quoted image][quoted image]

Just for records, the original rubber color is white

#289 4 years ago
Quoted from Ricochet:

Son of A-b***!!! How did I miss that all these years !!!!
I’m an idiot!

I am sorry
If you like black rubber, go for it.
Factory doesn't mean that was the best choice. Personally, I like the white set, it gives a clean look to almost every pin.

#311 4 years ago
Quoted from Ricochet:

Pig tailed and put .062 molex connectors on each of the target switches.[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

In HUO environment, what's the point of additional tons of Molex connectors for switches, coils? Please don't tell easy access/service

3 weeks later
#375 4 years ago
Quoted from Ricochet:

Preview... This looks great! Enough with the cards already right ??? I know I know... but I just think they are the sh1t!!!
[quoted image]

Double sunset?

#385 4 years ago

Nice job, really nice!

#393 4 years ago

My advice is to install mylar below the airball plastic. This area will see heavy traffic, and tons of "attenuated" balls.

1 week later
#443 4 years ago
Quoted from Ricochet:

Welp ... the POA playfield replacement is a bust. The version I have is different than what Mirco is making. The mounting holes for the side rails are in completely different locations.
I could drill my own holes here but some of the holes in the repro would not be covered by the rails ... and consequently would show.
So I’m gonna stick with my existing POA playfield.
I will be selling this Mirco repro at a discount. The finish is beautiful, artwork is a little offset. LMK if your interested.
[quoted image]

Does it mean he offers the mini playfield with design issue?
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/indiana-jones-regular-and-glitter-playfields-radcals-decals#post-5538121

#445 4 years ago
Quoted from Ricochet:

Well at the moment he is using the CAD files from Williams as his reference... and all I know is that my machine is different than what he has used. I have to imagine there are others in this same situation. I can only speculate that due to early prototype versions of IJ vs. production run there may have been a design change at some point and that's what I'm dealing with.

Williams CAD files? Check Willie's mouth in his thread... Vampire rules!

#449 4 years ago
Quoted from Ricochet:

Mine isn’t perfect and I figured it would be nice to also have that sparkly...
If I had studied picture in the for sale thread a little closer ... I wouldn’t have.
It can be made to work but I’m too anal retentive to accept it.

Don't sell it
Create a wooden backbox, add lights to inserts, install a $4 clock mechanism in the middle, and you have a unique POA clock!

#453 4 years ago
Quoted from Ricochet:

No amount of flex can make the red plastic rails that I have work. The drill pattern is entirely different ... and the artwork accommodates the different hole patterns. I suspect that the POA design he is using is an earlier version that was for the metal rails... and not for the full production plastic version.

I think you are right... The artwork next to The Pit is very similar to the repro.
https://www.ipdb.org/showpic.pl?id=1267&picno=62207&zoom=1

3 weeks later
#570 4 years ago
Quoted from Ricochet:

First power up!!!!
Ran through all the tests... zero issues (other than the known missing subway components)
I still need to program my LED OCD board... there are a few quirks I need to work out... but overall looks great !!!
Also nice to see the mirrored back-glass lit!
... Color DMD also not yet in.

[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

This is high end quality. Nice job!

#574 4 years ago
Quoted from Ricochet:

Thank you! and thanks for everything!!

You are welcome. And don't worry about LED OCD. The default setting is quite OK, but you can tune each and every insert... The brightness, the fade in/out curve. And there is a bypass button, to simulate how the lightshow would look like without the board. If you can't see the difference, I am happy to provide my address

#591 4 years ago
Quoted from Ricochet:

Yeah I’ve seen those. I’ve some new ideas for the fighter board (with integration for my good friend who makes the planes) and I would want to make them less expensive... but that’s for another day.

These PCB's are in the top 10...
On Top 10 less complex PCB's chart

#606 4 years ago
Quoted from Ricochet:

Just pulled the trigger on GI OCD... I'm thrilled at the performance of the LED OCD... so what the heck! There are no real GI effects on Indy... but the smoothing of the LEDs and the ability to adjust brightness correctly is what I'm after.

...and the ability to dim the backbox during gameplay

3 weeks later
#686 3 years ago
Quoted from Ricochet:

So I've been playing this game again ... its so great. I've missed it!
I'm in the process of tweaking my pinsound mix to my personal taste. I've the Endprodukt mix which is great in many ways... I appreciate the effort put into this, but I'm working on trimming it down a bit. There are some call-outs that don't quite work (either contextually, or they are too long or they are not vocally isolated enough from where they came from) so I'm removing those. The Harrison Ford impersonator has some really good lines but the majority of them ... because I've been listening to Harrison Ford my entire life... are sightly off and they bug me... so those have to go, I think I kept about two of them ("get the jackpot" and "nice shot"). There was also an attempt on Mola Ram type accented call-outs and those had to go as they were really cheesy and cliche' and don't fit IMHO. The music, and sfx tracks are great. So for the first pass through, the voice call-outs and jingles have been thinned quite a bit, all totaled I removed 83 voice samples and 17 jingle samples.

Fully agree...

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