(Topic ID: 251546)

Indiana Jones Restoration ... "It’s not the years honey... it’s the mileage"


By Ricochet

6 months ago



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  • 526 posts
  • 40 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 2 days ago by PtownPin
  • Topic is favorited by 52 Pinsiders

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There are 526 posts in this topic. You are on page 6 of 11.
#251 57 days ago
Quoted from Ricochet:

I’m trying these clear bumper bodies to get more illumination.
I don’t know... I’m not 100% sold on it yet. I’m afraid they will end up looking like crap.
[quoted image][quoted image]

If you want my opinion, yes they will help light up the area but to me, they don’t fit the IJ theme at all and look like crap.

I went with yellow pop skirts and bodies and those fit the game nicely and the area is well lit. Not saying you have to use yellow but clear and red? Leave that to a pin like Diner. This is something you really have to think about since once it’s done, it’s done. There is a reason why you are doubting this decision.

Peter, you know I respect you and your decisions but I have to disagree with you on this one my friend

#252 57 days ago

Yeah, the reason I went with the GI OCD on the Jokerz! is that there are some instances where it flashes the GI with relays (Extra Ball, ball lock) and it's damn near seizure inducing due to the nature of an LED's on/off cycle. The GI OCD returned the behavior to how they behave with incandescents, with the added benefit of brightening up the table. I used sunlight white LEDs in my game as well for places where it made sense, and the color temperature is basically spot on.

I just recently got a Judge Dredd where the previous owner did a lot of LEDs in the game, and some of the choices he made work OK...some not so much, so I have some tweaking down the road that I'm going to have to do to make that table shine. Side question: where did you get those lit posts? JD is notorious for having a dark lower playfield and I'd like to try some of those and experiment with different lighting options down there. The previous owner had spotlights with horrible purple lights, so I took those out about an hour after I set the game up at my house, but may end up reinstalling them with a different color light to get some more light down there.

#253 57 days ago
Quoted from KornFreak28:

...There is a reason why you are doubting this decision.

Yup... I generally don’t like friggin with the look of the playfied... this is something I thought I wanted a LONG time ago... and now that I have to make the decision ... mmm not so much.

#254 57 days ago

<whoops, removed>

#255 57 days ago
Quoted from KornFreak28:

If you want my opinion, yes they will help light up the area but to me, they don’t fit the IJ theme at all and look like crap.
I went with yellow pop skirts and bodies and those fit the game nicely and the area is well lit. Not saying you have to use yellow but clear and red? Leave that to a pin like Diner. This is something you really have to think about since once it’s done, it’s done. There is a reason why you are doubting this decision.
Peter, you know I respect you and your decisions but I have to disagree with you on this one my friend

No problem, I just don't understand why the yellow is a better choice
If I have to redo, I would add clear body - no color wash of artwork.

#256 57 days ago

Here is both ... I’m going with the traditional body.

#1 I don’t like the look of the lamp socket in there.

#2 The clear looks cheap to me.

#3 The lighting is harsh (understand this has to do with the lamp) ... the solid body softens the light.
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#257 57 days ago
Quoted from Davi:

No problem, I just don't understand why the yellow is a better choice
If I have to redo, I would add clear body - no color wash of artwork.

I’ll look for the pictures and post them. They really do look nice (IMO)

#258 57 days ago
Quoted from Ricochet:

Here is both ... I’m going with the traditional body.
#1 I don’t like the look of the socket in there. The clear looks cheap to me.
#2 The lighting is harsh (understand this has to do with the lamp) ... the solid body softens the light.
[quoted image][quoted image]

Yeah! Much better! Leave that clear body for TZ or something

#259 57 days ago

Jet bumpers... they truly are a semi-permanent installation.

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#260 57 days ago

I like the clear bodies myself in your picture and what I’ll likely do with my own.

#261 57 days ago
Quoted from dmacy:

I like the clear bodies myself in your picture and what I’ll likely do with my own.

Pm your address I’ll send them to you

#262 57 days ago
Quoted from Ricochet:

Pm your address I’ll send them to you

HAHAHAHAHA

#263 57 days ago

You’re funny ... but I’m being serious... I’m happy to pass them on. Turned out they weren’t for me but I don’t want them sitting around collecting dust.

#264 57 days ago
Quoted from Mr_Frog:

Yeah, the reason I went with the GI OCD on the Jokerz! is that there are some instances where it flashes the GI with relays (Extra Ball, ball lock) and it's damn near seizure inducing due to the nature of an LED's on/off cycle. The GI OCD returned the behavior to how they behave with incandescents, with the added benefit of brightening up the table. I used sunlight white LEDs in my game as well for places where it made sense, and the color temperature is basically spot on.
I just recently got a Judge Dredd where the previous owner did a lot of LEDs in the game, and some of the choices he made work OK...some not so much, so I have some tweaking down the road that I'm going to have to do to make that table shine. Side question: where did you get those lit posts? JD is notorious for having a dark lower playfield and I'd like to try some of those and experiment with different lighting options down there. The previous owner had spotlights with horrible purple lights, so I took those out about an hour after I set the game up at my house, but may end up reinstalling them with a different color light to get some more light down there.

Just look for "Star post light" in webshops, like:
https://www.pinballlife.com/star-post-lighting-kit-set-of-2-lights.html

You can also buy from Comet I guess. I have these from Aliexpress, sunlight versions, much cheaper.

I am also working on Judge Dredd. This pin has only about 16 GI sockets (including 4 at slings), so I have to also apply additional light. These star post lights are also applicable for double star posts. Please share your experience about this later.

This is my White Water with star post lights, the PCB is not visible.
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#265 57 days ago
Quoted from Ricochet:

You’re funny ... but I’m being serious... I’m happy to pass them on. Turned out they weren’t for me but I don’t want them sitting around collecting dust.

Ooops I thought you were being funny

#266 57 days ago
Quoted from KornFreak28:

Ooops I thought you were being funny

#267 57 days ago

Years ago, I bought a full LED replacement kit (no colours, warm white) for my IJ. Got them all in, powered 'er up...and I hated it. I immediately stripped them out and put in new incandescent bulbs, and the vendor was kind enough to let me return the LEDs.

There's something about the warm lamplight glow of real filaments that just make this machine, ya know? I've seen plenty of other pins where the LEDs look great, but to me the Indy theme calls for old school. In fact, I bought a string of caged incandescent lights to hang above my Indy machine because they reminded me of the queue lighting on the Indiana Jones ride at Disneyland.

That said, your comparison showing the 'A' target looks great, and if you're going LED at least you're doing it right.

#268 57 days ago

Experimenting cutting an acrylic back board. Still have some tweaking to do before it’s 100%

0.75 cast acrylic is some hard stuff!


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#269 56 days ago
Quoted from Davi:

Just look for "Star post light" in webshops, like:
https://www.pinballlife.com/star-post-lighting-kit-set-of-2-lights.html
You can also buy from Comet I guess. I have these from Aliexpress, sunlight versions, much cheaper.
I am also working on Judge Dredd. This pin has only about 16 GI sockets (including 4 at slings), so I have to also apply additional light. These star post lights are also applicable for double star posts. Please share your experience about this later.
This is my White Water with star post lights, the PCB is not visible.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

I will probably experiment with the star post lighting before I'm done. I think in some cases it can really help illuminate darker areas. Indy is fairly open but I'll give it an honest evaluation. Thanks for the pics!!!

#270 56 days ago
Quoted from Ricochet:

Experimenting cutting an acrylic back board. Still have some tweaking to do before it’s 100%
0.75 cast acrylic is some hard stuff!

[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Nice...

#271 56 days ago

The upgraded ball trough from Marcospecialties has fit issue on my machine ... just an FYI. I’ve contacted Marco so they are aware. I understand there are tolerances but right-most machine screws do not align with the holes in the playfield at all... it’s a bummer.
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#272 56 days ago
Quoted from Ricochet:

The upgraded ball trough from Marcospecialties has fit issue on my machine ... just an FYI. I’ve contacted Marco so they are aware. I understand there are tolerances but right-most machine screws do not align with the holes in the playfield at all... it’s a bummer.
[quoted image]

is having the upgraded ball trough worth drilling the playfield underneath the apron?

#273 56 days ago
Quoted from okgrak:

is having the upgraded ball trough worth drilling the playfield underneath the apron?

I’ve been noodling that. It doesn’t add a whole lot ... my machine didn’t have trough issues. The holes need to be elongated outward for it to fit.

... and truthfully... it’s pretty darn secure with the 4 screws. A proper fit for a $125 part would make me feel a little better.

#274 54 days ago

Pop bumper playground is done !

All of my coils will be getting connector-ized BTW

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#275 54 days ago
Quoted from Ricochet:

Pop bumper playground is done !
All of my coils will be getting connector-ized BTW[quoted image]

What solution did you go with for the rotisserie (real panel area)?

#276 54 days ago
Quoted from KornFreak28:

What solution did you go with for the rotisserie (real panel area)?

I actually cut a scrap piece for the backboard (for now until I get my new one fabbed) and am using it as the anchor

I had purchased the cheap a$$ rotisserie from Marcospecialties a long time ago and I wanted to see if I could make it work. It works very well.

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#277 53 days ago

Shiny posts ... new Cliffy ... pinballdecals target decals.
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#278 52 days ago

Replaced all the sockets on the lamp insert PCB.

These don’t solder well. Four of them were very loose, I could just pull them out. It doesn’t help that the 3’rd prong isn’t really long enough and the board is single sided with no feed throughs.

To extend the third prong and to get the solder to wick better, ultimately improving the adhesion ... I used a little wire as a wick.

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#279 52 days ago

Yep, I'm finding that I am going to have to do the same thing to most, if not all of my light boards on my Dredd. Good tip on the wire wick...I will be using that one!

#280 52 days ago
Quoted from Mr_Frog:

Yep, I'm finding that I am going to have to do the same thing to most, if not all of my light boards on my Dredd. Good tip on the wire wick...I will be using that one!

Tin it and dip it in flux too!

#281 51 days ago

Replacing roll-overs. I was going to put 2 pin .062 pin and socket pigtails but I’m not crazy about all those connectors bulking up the harness bundle.

I decided to go with a leaner approach. The QD clicks on so it’s fully engaged.
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#282 51 days ago

So, another question: Did you re-use the wireform from the old switch, or did you buy new switches with the wireform already on them? The reason I ask is that I have a couple of switches on my Jokerz! that can be intermittent from time to time. The problem is that the switch with the proper wireform is unobtanium. I have given some though to coming up with a process to either fab up, or farm out a process to re-make the wireforms, but then life got in the way and that idea got put on the back burner.

By the way, I am thoroughly enjoying this thread.

#283 51 days ago
Quoted from Mr_Frog:

So, another question: Did you re-use the wireform from the old switch, or did you buy new switches with the wireform already on them? The reason I ask is that I have a couple of switches on my Jokerz! that can be intermittent from time to time. The problem is that the switch with the proper wireform is unobtanium. I have given some though to coming up with a process to either fab up, or farm out a process to re-make the wireforms, but then life got in the way and that idea got put on the back burner.
By the way, I am thoroughly enjoying this thread.

I just purchased new switches. Fortunately these are common. However ... I did install the original wire form on the new switch and it works perfectly with the new switch body. So you should be ok to transplant it.

Glad you’re enjoying it! I feel like I may be seeing some light at the end of this 1-1/2 year long tunnel !!!

#284 51 days ago

My Titan kit. I don’t like colored rubber rings... in fact I think the stock black looks the absolute best. White also works, but Imma sticking with black.

My major deviation is with the posts. I’ve chosen to make most of the posts green ... except the two for the captive ball, those will stay stock yellow. I have also changed the two posts around the center target to red.

I will be using red standard rubber for the flippers though.

If I don’t like the way it looks... all the colored (except yellows) will go stock black.

BTW I did create this kit in the Titan database. It does include the flipper rubbers even though I personally don’t use them.
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#285 51 days ago
Quoted from Ricochet:

My Titan kit. I don’t like colored rubber rings... in fact I think the stock black looks great!
My major deviation is with the posts. I’ve chosen to make most of the posts green ... except the two for the captive ball, those will stay stock yellow. I have also changed the two posts around the center target to red.
I will be using red standard rubber for the flippers though.
If I don’t like the way it looks... all the colored (except yellows) will go stock black.
BTW I did create this kit in the Titan database. It does include the flipper rubbers even though I personally don’t use them.
[quoted image][quoted image]

Just for records, the original rubber color is white

#286 51 days ago
Quoted from Davi:

Just for records, the original rubber color is white

Nope it’s black

#288 51 days ago

Son of A-b***!!! How did I miss that all these years !!!!

I’m an idiot!

#289 51 days ago
Quoted from Ricochet:

Son of A-b***!!! How did I miss that all these years !!!!
I’m an idiot!

I am sorry
If you like black rubber, go for it.
Factory doesn't mean that was the best choice. Personally, I like the white set, it gives a clean look to almost every pin.

#290 51 days ago
Quoted from Davi:

I am sorry
If you like black rubber, go for it.
Factory doesn't mean that was the best choice. Personally, I like the white set, it gives a clean look to almost every pin.

Look what I found ... a white kit !!!! HA!!! I must have been delusional...
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#291 51 days ago

I’ve got most of the roll-overs installed. Still need to do INDY. If you go this route pay attention to the side the bracket touches the switch body... and put the diode along the other side. This will avoid a potential short caused by installation.

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#292 50 days ago

POA gear box clean... sort of.

So I decided to crack open the POA motor gearbox to clean it and re-lube. The only way in was to drill out the rivets.

Welp once I got it open... I soon realized ... it’s fine. Grease is not caked and has a nice viscosity. Well shit.

So now that it’s open and I need to put it back together ... I decided to drill and tap for some #6 screws. It all worked out great. I still intend on cleaning the gear box thoroughly and re-lubricating with synthetic grease... just not today. Besides I can get in and out anytime I want now

BTW... prolly gonna change those screws out for hex heads... make it more pinball-y

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#293 50 days ago

Another question about your switches, more specifically about the spade connectors that you are using: Are you using the narrow spade connectors that are only as wide as the prong? I've been looking locally and can only find the standard width ones. I would love to swap out a couple of hard-to-get-to switches with spade connectors, as soldering them is a bitch.

#294 50 days ago
Quoted from Mr_Frog:

Another question about your switches, more specifically about the spade connectors that you are using: Are you using the narrow spade connectors that are only as wide as the prong? I've been looking locally and can only find the standard width ones. I would love to swap out a couple of hard-to-get-to switches with spade connectors, as soldering them is a bitch.

I got mine from DigiKey, they are the correct size for the switch spade lugs.
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#295 49 days ago

Brilliant, thank you for the pic of the part number!

#296 48 days ago

Metal ramp refinish ...

400,600,1000 and maroon scuff pad.

Wet sanded, washed with purple power in between. Final buffing with the scuff pad. Don’t mind the dog toys ... I wanted to get good light on it
Took about 45 minutes.

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#297 48 days ago
Quoted from Ricochet:

Metal ramp refinish ...
400,600,1000 and maroon scuff pad.
Wet sanded, washed with purple power in between. Final buffing with the scuff pad. Don’t mind the dog toys ... I wanted to get good light on it
Took about 45 minutes.[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

#298 48 days ago

Elbow grease ! Thanks for the tips!

#299 48 days ago

Ramp flap riveted! That’s not a ball trail on that ramp... Is the shadow of the edge.
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#300 48 days ago

I sent my subway to Chris at pinballplating.com to be re-chromed. I tried like hell to polish it... no dice.

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