(Topic ID: 251546)

Indiana Jones Restoration ... "It’s not the years honey... it’s the mileage"


By Ricochet

6 months ago



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  • 546 posts
  • 40 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 1 day ago by PtownPin
  • Topic is favorited by 54 Pinsiders

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There are 546 posts in this topic. You are on page 5 of 11.
#201 82 days ago
Quoted from Davi:

Nice - I am sure you can also do this.
I did it for Judge Dredd and White Water, material cost was $5 for 2 games.

Oh yes thank you ... I could have ... I just decided that it was one of a million things to do and Taylor Reese is all setup to do them ... and does them well.

#202 80 days ago

I’ve got to solve this problem. This is the right side apron ball guide. One of the captive nuts had popped out long before I owned it. I can try to re-press fit another... don’t think that’s gonna work. Captive nuts are kind of a one and done thing. Sourcing this part will be next to impossible.

It would be cool if I knew a welder who could spot weld an 8/32 nut in its place... anyone? Anyone ?
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#203 80 days ago

That would work

#204 80 days ago
Quoted from KornFreak28:

That would work

I've been thinking about this friggin problem since the day I got it home 9 years ago. Now I have to deal with it. LOL

#205 76 days ago

Fixed! I had the welder do them all for good measure !

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#206 72 days ago

Every socket on the GI/lamp harness has been replaced.

I added the missing lamp to the string up by the INDY roll overs.

I also fixed the new pop bumper lamp sockets. The leads are spot welded and often break so I added a bit of solder to them.
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#207 72 days ago
Quoted from Ricochet:

Every socket on the GI/lamp harness has been replaced.
I added the missing lamp to the string up by the INDY roll overs.
I also fixed the new pop bumper lamp sockets. The leads are spot welded and often break so I added a bit of solder to them.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Do you have the part number for the one by the rollovers?

#209 71 days ago

Made a “mod” panel ... for whatever additional back box PCBs I’m adding. Now that it’s pristine ... I’m not crazy about sticking or drilling anything on/in the box.

PinSound shaker control PCB will be the first (and probably only thing) that gets mounted here.
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#210 71 days ago

Amazing work you’re doing on this machine Ricochet! I just discovered and read through your whole thread. Very informative since I’ve just started my own IJ restore.

I’m about to start on the cabinet and I’m curious what brand and sheen of black rattle can did you use?

Also, where did you get the inside art blades? Those are the best I’ve seen but I can’t find that style anywhere.

#211 71 days ago
Quoted from gearhead:

Amazing work you’re doing on this machine Ricochet! I just discovered and read through your whole thread. Very informative since I’ve just started my own IJ restore.
I’m about to start on the cabinet and I’m curious what brand and sheen of black rattle can did you use?
Also, where did you get the inside art blades? Those are the best I’ve seen but I can’t find that style anywhere.

Thank you for the compliments!!!

I used Rustoleum Painters Touch semi gloss. Just be sure when you purchase it you buy it all at once... (or at least for each coat) for consistency sake. Also don’t empty the can on the finish coat. As they get low ... your finish can get inconsistent.

I had a friend of mine print those art blades for me.

Have fun with your restore... just remember when you think you have everything you need ... you don’t

#212 70 days ago

I splurged and got all new trough components! I also got new drop target assemblies. Eff IT go big or go home!

As Belloq would say (right before his head explodes) ... “It’s beautiful!”

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#213 70 days ago

Some new assemblies...

3 bank and single drop targets and ball kicker.

Coils freshly wrapped with Williams coil wrappers.

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#214 70 days ago

Looking good!

#215 70 days ago

Solid work and looking great! I know the amount of blood, sweat, and tears that go into restoring this game. 3 years ago I did mine up pretty nice....wish I still had it
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/my-restoration-of-indiana-jonesthe-orange-edition
Keep up the great work!

#216 70 days ago
Quoted from cleland:

Solid work and looking great! I know the amount of blood, sweat, and tears that go into restoring this game. 3 years ago I did mine up pretty nice....wish I still had it
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/my-restoration-of-indiana-jonesthe-orange-edition
Keep up the great work!

Thank you! Pretty cool choices on that Indy... it came out fantastic!

There is so much to the process... sometimes I feel like I'm going delirious from the never-ending... oh that needs to be cleaned, or that needs to be fixed. I'm not seeing myself parting with this machine unless someone wants to offer me an ungodly amount of money for it... and even then... mmmm i dunno.

#217 70 days ago
Quoted from Ricochet:

Thank you! Pretty cool choices on that Indy... it came out fantastic!
There is so much to the process... sometimes I feel like I'm going delirious from the never-ending... oh that needs to be cleaned, or that needs to be fixed. I'm not seeing myself parting with this machine unless someone wants to offer me an ungodly amount of money for it... and even then... mmmm i dunno.

Speaking from experience, keep that baby forever....better than new, and you will have quite the story to tell

#218 70 days ago
Quoted from Ricochet:

Coils freshly wrapped with Williams coil wrappers.

Where'd you get those wrappers?

#219 70 days ago
Quoted from Mr_Frog:

Where'd you get those wrappers?

Planetary Pinball... go to parts store and search for coil wrappers. They have sets for most of the popular games and they are of very good quality. They are pricey in my opinion... but it is what it is.

#220 70 days ago
Quoted from Ricochet:

Planetary Pinball... go to parts store and search for coil wrappers. They have sets for most of the popular games and they are of very good quality. They are pricey in my opinion... but it is what it is.

Just be aware, over time, they will slowly start to unwrap. When I install them, I use contact cement on the last inch or so.

#221 70 days ago
Quoted from Bryan_Kelly:

Just be aware, over time, they will slowly start to unwrap. When I install them, I use contact cement on the last inch or so.

Oooh man thanks for the tip Bryan !!!!!

#222 70 days ago
Quoted from Ricochet:

Planetary Pinball... go to parts store and search for coil wrappers. They have sets for most of the popular games and they are of very good quality. They are pricey in my opinion... but it is what it is.

...or just buy colored A4 paper, and print your own wrappers based on Inkochnito's file. $0.2 per machine.

#223 70 days ago
Quoted from Davi:

...or just buy colored A4 paper, and print your own wrappers based on Inkochnito's file. $0.2 per machine.

Yeah... I know... I pay for shit that I don't have to.

#224 70 days ago
Quoted from Davi:

...or just buy colored A4 paper, and print your own wrappers based on Inkochnito's file. $0.2 per machine.

So do the ones from Planetary have the wax coating on them (or whatever is on the original ones)?

#225 70 days ago
Quoted from Mr_Frog:

So do the ones from Planetary have the wax coating on them (or whatever is on the original ones)?

They feel coated. Not entirely sure if the coating is the same as OEM... however they are certainly not plain paper. They are made from a masking tape-like material.

#226 70 days ago
Quoted from Ricochet:

They are coated. Not entirely sure if the coating is the same as OEM... they are certainly not plain paper.

That must be part of the reason why they are so pricey (as well as them being die cut as well). I’d like to know what the top coating is...I’d take a stab at doing it myself on a weekend with nothing to do.

#227 70 days ago
Quoted from Ricochet:

They feel coated. Not entirely sure if the coating is the same as OEM... however they are certainly not plain paper. They are made from a masking tape-like material.

Leave the coating on and only peel about a 1/4 inch or so. Looks much better with the coating on than without since it will wrinkle and stick unevenly on the coil.

#228 70 days ago
Quoted from KornFreak28:

Leave the coating on and only peel about a 1/4 inch or so. Looks much better with the coating on than without since it will wrinkle and stick unevenly on the coil.

I don’t think the coating will come off without destroying the thing.

#229 70 days ago
Quoted from Ricochet:

I don’t think the coating will come off without destroying the thing.

Sorry I meant the paper backing before they are installed. If you already stuck them on the coil, It’s too late I’m afraid

Wrapping them around the coil with most of the paper backing on makes for a better and cleaner look since you avoid the wrinkles and uneven surfaces.

#230 70 days ago
Quoted from KornFreak28:

Sorry I meant the paper backing before they are installed. If you already stuck them on the coil, It’s too late I’m afraid
Wrapping them around the coil with most of the paper backing on makes for a better and cleaner look since you avoid the wrinkles and uneven surfaces.

AHHHH I see.. ok yeah too late. The wrinkling isn't terrible... of all the imperfections in this restoration... this is one I can live with

#231 70 days ago
Quoted from Ricochet:

AHHHH I see.. ok yeah too late. The wrinkling isn't terrible... of all the imperfections in this restoration... this is one I can live with

But since you like splurging......HAHAHA

#232 70 days ago
Quoted from KornFreak28:

But since you like splurging......HAHAHA

Nope... 40 bucks for tape is a one time purchase even if I were put them through the shredder.

#233 69 days ago

Planning something for the back panel of the playfield... cutting with a computer controlled device may be involved
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#234 69 days ago

Time to start with the tumbler ...
(took the pic in the kitchen... this isn’t where I’m running it )

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#235 69 days ago

Daaaaamn...
And here I thought I went hardcore when I restored my Indy machine. I thought I brought it as close to "factory new" as I could, but the depth of your restoration puts mine to absolute shame. And that mirrored backglass...I want that. How come I can't find that?

Well done! Everything looks just fantastic. I can't wait to see the finished result.

#236 69 days ago
Quoted from AaronZOOM:

Daaaaamn...
And here I thought I went hardcore when I restored my Indy machine. I thought I brought it as close to "factory new" as I could, but the depth of your restoration puts mine to absolute shame. And that mirrored backglass...I want that. How come I can't find that?
Well done! Everything looks just fantastic. I can't wait to see the finished result.

Thank you ! Definitely a labor or love ... or psychosis !!!

#237 69 days ago

Insert cleaning ... started to get ahead of myself and almost forgot

Went to amazon and bought the mother of all cotton swab assortment!

Cleaned with a 1:3 simple green:water mixture...

Those big tip swabs work great at picking up the cleaning solution and dirt.

They weren’t all that dirty ... but it needed to be done.
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#238 69 days ago

Did a quick LED test. This machine used to have colored LEDs for the inserts.

I’ve always thought ... yeah I’ll just leave them. Colored LEDs for inserts are fine right?

NOPE! I’m going with sunlights from Cometpinball.

That green just kills the red gradient, yellow and even the black colors of the insert. The last pic is the comet sunlight. It’s a frosted 2SMD. I’m going to try clear and no lens regardless... it looks spectacular! The ADVENTURE inserts need to use the flex bulb... so those will need to be a 1 SMD

For the record I don’t necessarily think that colored LEDs are always bad for inserts... you just need to be aware of the colors of the artwork and LED color choice when making a decision to use LEDs. For example a green LED would do fine on the green inserts of the wings on this playfield... as they are pure green. But for me I won’t mix ... I will keep them all alike.

I’m running these a little under voltage but both LEDs are placed at same distance to the insert. Also since it is at a reduced voltage the 1SMD may actually be better once I’m running at the correct voltage...either way green ain’t it!

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#239 69 days ago
Quoted from Ricochet:

Did a quick LED test. This machine used to have colored LEDs for the inserts.
I’ve always thought ... yeah I’ll just leave them. Colored LEDs for inserts are fine right?
NOPE! I’m going with sunlights from Cometpinball.
That green just kills the red gradient, yellow and even the black colors of the insert. The last pic is the comet sunlight. It’s a frosted 2SMD. I’m going to try clear and no lens regardless... it looks spectacular! The ADVENTURE inserts need to use the flex bulb... so those will need to be a 1 SMD
For the record I don’t necessarily think that colored LEDs are always bad for inserts... you just need to be aware of the colors of the artwork and LED color choice when making a decision to use LEDs. For example a green LED would do fine on the green inserts of the wings on this playfield... as they are pure green. But for me I won’t mix ... I will keep them all alike.
I’m running these a little under voltage but both LEDs are placed at same distance to the insert. Also since it is at a reduced voltage the 1SMD may actually be better once I’m running at the correct voltage...either way green ain’t it!
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

I rarely use colored bulbs in inserts. Occasional it works well, but there is a loss in lumens, and gradients or colored artwork on top of insets tend to look washed out or muted. IJ is a perfect example, especially the mode inserts.

#240 69 days ago
Quoted from okgrak:

I rarely use colored bulbs in inserts. Occasional it works well, but there is a loss in lumens, and gradients or colored artwork on top of insets tend to look washed out or muted. IJ is a perfect example, especially the mode inserts.

Yup! I put this CoinTaker kit in years ago... I’ve learned so much since then and LEDs have come a long way. No more colored inserts. Makes buying LED kits a breeze!

#241 69 days ago
Quoted from Ricochet:

Did a quick LED test. This machine used to have colored LEDs for the inserts.
I’ve always thought ... yeah I’ll just leave them. Colored LEDs for inserts are fine right?
NOPE! I’m going with sunlights from Cometpinball.
That green just kills the red gradient, yellow and even the black colors of the insert. The last pic is the comet sunlight. It’s a frosted 2SMD. I’m going to try clear and no lens regardless... it looks spectacular! The ADVENTURE inserts need to use the flex bulb... so those will need to be a 1 SMD
For the record I don’t necessarily think that colored LEDs are always bad for inserts... you just need to be aware of the colors of the artwork and LED color choice when making a decision to use LEDs. For example a green LED would do fine on the green inserts of the wings on this playfield... as they are pure green. But for me I won’t mix ... I will keep them all alike.
I’m running these a little under voltage but both LEDs are placed at same distance to the insert. Also since it is at a reduced voltage the 1SMD may actually be better once I’m running at the correct voltage...either way green ain’t it!
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

That looks fantastic with the sunlights in there. I have green and this really shows I need to change.

#242 69 days ago

Ron Kruzman clear coat prep kit. This thing is the sh1t but looks like it belongs on Breaking Bad

Pop bumper twist screw prep was a breeze ... kruzed right through it !!!
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#243 68 days ago

Tumbling is one of the few easy things that just happens “automatically” in the restoration process .... almost like getting a gift.

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#244 68 days ago

I’m trying these clear bumper bodies to get more illumination.

I don’t know... I’m not 100% sold on it yet. I’m afraid they will end up looking like crap.

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#245 68 days ago
Quoted from Ricochet:

I’m trying these clear bumper bodies to get more illumination.
I don’t know... I’m not 100% sold on it yet. I’m afraid they will end up looking like crap.
[quoted image][quoted image]

Don't worry, this is good. I have red transparent in my IJ.
I see you go on LED way. I have ended up incandescent at GI, it gives a charm back to Indy, LED was too steril to me. IJ has many plastics and GI bulbs. The light dispersion of incandescent bulb is much better (more even). A freshly restored and cleaned pin, like yours can be lit well by standard new bulbs.

#246 68 days ago
Quoted from Davi:

Don't worry, this is good. I have red transparent in my IJ.
I see you go on LED way. I have ended up incandescent at GI, it gives a charm back to Indy, LED was too steril to me. IJ has many plastics and GI bulbs. The light dispersion of incandescent bulb is much better (more even). A freshly restored and cleaned pin, like yours can be lit well by standard new bulbs.

Yup I’m totally with you on the incandescent lamps. The sunlights are really quite good and I’m going to run with them for a bit to see how I like it. Also I’m going to be using the LEDOCD module to control my insert LEDs.

#247 68 days ago
Quoted from Ricochet:

Yup I’m totally with you on the incandescent lamps. The sunlights are really quite good and I’m going to run with them for a bit to see how I like it. Also I’m going to be using the LEDOCD module to control my insert LEDs.

I did LED OCD boards for both the GI and the inserts on my Jokerz! and DUDE, it was money well spent. It completely eliminates the most major complaint I have about LEDs in these games (besides people who use them that have no concept of a color palette). I probably went through two or three sub-iterations of bulb colors for some of the things on my table before I arrived at bulb colors I was happy with.

#248 68 days ago
Quoted from Ricochet:

Yup I’m totally with you on the incandescent lamps. The sunlights are really quite good and I’m going to run with them for a bit to see how I like it. Also I’m going to be using the LEDOCD module to control my insert LEDs.

Another hint: the bottom center of pf is dark, a starpost light helps (I don't like spotlights).

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/ij-williams-you-cheat-dr-jones-club/page/74#post-4610841

#249 68 days ago
Quoted from Davi:

Another hint: the bottom center of pf is dark, a starpost light helps (I don't like spotlights).
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/ij-williams-you-cheat-dr-jones-club/page/74#post-4610841

I have some of those ! I’ve been going back and forth on whether or not to use them. Thanks for the pic !!

#250 68 days ago
Quoted from Mr_Frog:

I did LED OCD boards for both the GI and the inserts on my Jokerz! and DUDE, it was money well spent. It completely eliminates the most major complaint I have about LEDs in these games (besides people who use them that have no concept of a color palette). I probably went through two or three sub-iterations of bulb colors for some of the things on my table before I arrived at bulb colors I was happy with.

Yeah I’ve been going back and forth on it. In attract mode with LEDs Indy kind of looks almost random because of the loss of attack and decay of light when using LEDs. Honestly after I saw how great the inserts looked with the plain sunlight LEDs, that sealed the deal for me on the LEDOCD. For the GI ... I’m not sure ...
Indy has no fade effects BUT there is some flicker that’s noticeable even with non-ghosting. So I may end up getting the GI unit as well.

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