Danville, CA
Backbox warning... Nicely done! The pressure is off 
Can I ask where you got your silk screen? Also, I think there's a smaller screening, I want to say about 4" x 5", near the bottom of backbox. Do you have that one as well?
Kerry
(Topic ID: 251546)
Linked Games
Indiana Jones: The Pinball Adventure
Williams, 1993
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Nice work on the screening!
Were you aware of the announcement of new playfields and radcals for Indy? Just in case you were interested.
Quoted from Kerry_Richard:Backbox warning... Nicely done! The pressure is off
Can I ask where you got your silk screen? Also, I think there's a smaller screening, I want to say about 4" x 5", near the bottom of backbox. Do you have that one as well?
Kerry
Hey Kerry... here is the info
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/indy-restoration-its-not-the-years-honey-its-the-mileage-/page/2#post-5283342
Quoted from paynemic:Nice work on the screening!
Were you aware of the announcement of new playfields and radcals for Indy? Just in case you were interested.
Thanks !!! Yup I am aware, and all of that would have been very appealing to me about a year ago 
. I've put out the cash to restore my playfield and am super happy with it, so the money well (pit) on this one has all but dried up. I don't see myself buying a repro playfield just to keep it in storage. Radcals are really neat but I've the screen printed decals on this one so I'm not going to lose any sleep over that either. But seriously for those just starting a restoration... 1250 for new radcals and playfield set is a great deal IMHO.
Quoted from Ricochet:Thanks !!! Yup I am aware, and all of that would have been very appealing to me about a year ago . I've put out the cash to restore my playfield and am super happy with it, so the money well (pit) on this one has all but dried up. I don't see myself buying a repro playfield just to keep it in storage. Radcals are really neat but I've the screen printed decals on this one so I'm not going to lose any sleep over that either. But seriously for those just starting a restoration... 1250 for new radcals and playfield set is a great deal IMHO.
Get it 100%. Yours is looking amazing. If I had time to do it “right” I’d do traditional decals too.
Finished cabinet decals ... getting the back box together! Once it’s on the machine I’m going to go around the edge with a paint pen to hide the white edge.
Feels good !!!
6ECAE2F3-5DDB-49A2-88DE-DB9E58118EA5 (resized).jpegC83134D3-7B81-47B1-A847-7A3458CA8703 (resized).jpeg247AED8B-A582-47B2-9BE7-15BA13573100 (resized).jpeg279F7040-1751-488F-8378-F1B7BF4DF9B0 (resized).jpegC4B0CA60-5597-4DE6-B2BD-0FAFC6612556 (resized).jpeg
Quoted from Ricochet:Finished cabinet decals ... getting the back box together! Once it’s on the machine I’m going to go around the edge with a paint pen to hide the white edge.
Feels good !!!
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
Nicely done! 
Quoted from KornFreak28:Nicely done!
Thanks...
Light board tonight and we start getting this beeyotch back together! I'll be setting up my play field on the rotisserie over the holiday... I simply can't believe its happening. I've had this machine for almost 9 years now (which is also mind boggling) and its finally getting done. I was able to get out of the garage before the snow flies which although later than my original 3 week plan... is good enough.
This weekend will be a big clean-regroup-reorganize
Light board done! Got the back box loaded (except for the knocker)
D313DD87-B3EE-4728-9736-1911F75EE213 (resized).jpeg59CF5C4A-71D7-4A68-A8C4-53B0DE5304DD (resized).jpegA1844E12-0F0B-490D-A182-3E7D91154657 (resized).jpeg4F025124-C10D-4EAB-A576-50BA58E026F3 (resized).jpegED20B6E5-663C-4266-8783-21CD8697EE3E (resized).jpegFBDD514A-5AB4-47F0-B4E2-95B4F0810978 (resized).jpegRebuilt power entry box today!
I had my power entry box powder coated with the same finish as the trim. I decided to go with the stainless steel version... I just think it looks better.
I didn’t have any red colored flame proof insulation for the MOV and Thermistor ... I had white ... good enough.
Pushing through the pain!
I really love the stainless AC service boxes.. like the lockdown receiver, they are from www.mantisamusements.com they have lots of goodies over there!
The H and U channel as well as the lift trim is metal (got those from mantis too) and is powder coated to match the cabinet trim.
Oh and CPR mirrored back glass ... 
F12BB8D1-4931-4052-8D80-01A142973B93 (resized).jpegC0A1A28A-C139-41FF-A844-AA9C6AC96CB2 (resized).jpeg2E7AF094-6C2E-43DB-9689-565C22EB7631 (resized).jpeg0ACA03C2-94D0-4AD0-A11C-3B0162E3003D (resized).jpeg
Quoted from Ricochet:Fixed the barcode label.[quoted image][quoted image]
How?!? Share
Quoted from KornFreak28:How?!? Share
Enjoy ! Made one set printed offset like mine and another centered. Can be printed on any adhesive label and hand cut. I got a cheap 4mm radius cutter from amazon to round the corners.
Print at 100%
https://drive.google.com/open?id=1wzMHAORKXck0itjs4MI0ZsxqYM36bfAv
Quoted from Ricochet:Enjoy ! Made one set printed offset like mine and another centered. Can be printed on any adhesive label and hand cut. I got a cheap 4mm radius cutter from amazon to round the corners.
Print at 100%
https://drive.google.com/open?id=1wzMHAORKXck0itjs4MI0ZsxqYM36bfAv
Cooool! Thank you!
1 week later
Quoted from Ricochet:New base ... DONE![quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
Great thread Ricochet! I am in the process of redoing my BSD cabinet right now. I am curious about the bottom panel you made. Mine is only 1/4 thick it looks like you used 1/2 for your replacement bottom panel and then routed out 1/4 on the sides. What benefit does this provide? I am guessing it just adds strength by having the bottom panel thicker?
Thanks,
Mike
Quoted from mbt:Great thread Ricochet! I am in the process of redoing my BSD cabinet right now. I am curious about the bottom panel you made. Mine is only 1/4 thick it looks like you used 1/2 for your replacement bottom panel and then routed out 1/4 on the sides. What benefit does this provide? I am guessing it just adds strength by having the bottom panel thicker?
Thanks,
Mike
Hey Mike...
Thank you!! The original design of the cabinet has a 1/4 x 1/4 slot that the base fits into. I suppose the original designers went with the 1/2 MDF because it’s economical and it’s pretty common to fit panels into cabinetry this way. It provides a nice clean edge that can be glued and makes the entire thing solid.
Just a little something while I wait for my joints to heal... I made it so the only thing that's soldered to the switch is the diode.
The only think I kept were the 4 wires and connector pins, everything else is new.
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1 week later
Been super sick... everything has come to a screeching halt. Hope to get back in business before the new year. I’ve got some led harness to make for the Indy Plane Rescue Service... so that will take priority before I start this up again.
Quoted from Ricochet:Been super sick... everything has come to a screeching halt. Hope to get back in business before the new year. I’ve got some led harness to make for the Indy Plane Rescue Service... so that will take priority before I start this up again.
There are 2 more add ons. I’ll PM you later. No rush my friend! Get well soon
Quoted from KornFreak28:There are 2 more add ons. I’ll PM you later. No rush my friend! Get well soon
Affirmative ! I got one today.
1 week later
How to stop your decal from buckling under pressure.
The gun is not perfect... hence when you anchor it, it digs in and usually causes the decal to buckle at one or more points along the edge or corner of the gun.
Just make a plate out of plexi or lexan slightly larger than the gun flange. This will even out the mounting pressure under the flange of the gun and prevent the decal from puckering.
DED7ED72-1D42-4C84-9987-B02031E876B6 (resized).jpeg
Collingwood, ON
Yes I always cut the decal behide where the bolts where they go then but small washers behide them and the same look and no buckling at all
Quoted from Ricochet:Just a little progress... man there is a bunch of crap crammed into this corner !!![quoted image]
Yea sure is I just restored my GNR and the same thing lots crammed in that corner
Welp... my wire forms that I had Mike Chestnut (RIP) plate for me years ago had some oxidation spots on them. My fault ... When I took them off I didn’t store them properly 
Chris at pinballplating.com saves the day with an exchange for a minty fresh plated set. It was an expense I hadn’t planned but Chris’s work is second to none!!
0CEEE271-9995-4314-9DAB-8CD8ABCCF8DE (resized).jpeg
Budapest
Quoted from Ricochet:Welp... my wire forms that I had Mike Chestnut (RIP) plate for me years ago had some oxidation spots on them. My fault ... When I took them off I didn’t store them properly
Chris at pinballplating.com saves the day with an exchange for a minty fresh plated set. It was an expense I hadn’t planned but Chris’s work is second to none!![quoted image]
I think it was not your fault. I guess the old one was brass plated, without protective coat. If so, an oxidation is normal, that's why the factory wireform set had also clearcoat.
If the new set is also without clearcoat, then you will see brass oxidation soon.
Quoted from Davi:I think it was not your fault. I guess the old one was brass plated, without protective coat. If so, an oxidation is normal, that's why the factory wireform set had also clearcoat.
If the new set is also without clearcoat, then you will see brass oxidation soon.
It was actually clear coated... I think there may have been some areas around the weld (where the long rods connect to the circular forms) where the clear didn't quite cover. Chris's stuff is also clear coated.
Done with the box!
Moving on to the playfied
1AEF8974-9A03-4C1A-8DAB-B770BCB85B6F (resized).jpegA956DE6C-867C-4649-9985-BB96D34D991A (resized).jpegE7C8CA29-0799-460E-80EB-2B5155A3E677 (resized).jpegC9132090-36AF-4A99-8A01-62945AB00A40 (resized).jpegE6F7F37D-2A36-4C47-9F23-927D668DA085 (resized).jpegF6A512CC-410E-4033-824A-E3282E232C14 (resized).jpegQuoted from Ricochet:Done with the box!
Moving on to the playfied[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
Looks perfect! Feels good doesn't? What kind of rotisserie are you using for the playfield? If you are using the "traditional" one where you rest it on pieces of angle iron and use clamps to secure it, I strongly advise you install the rear panel, the side rails and the rear ball guide (rear ball guide if possible) first. Why?
It is easy to secure the playfield without the rear panel installed. There is lots of real estate where you can mount the clamps and secure the the playfield to the angle iron. Once you install the rear panel though, things get a bit more complicated since now all that real estate is gone. You can only secure the playfield from the sides where there still a bit of angle iron available. BUT add the wood side rails and the rear ball guide and things get even more complicated! Now you have no room for the clamps! PLUS, the angle iron (on the very back) will cover important areas (lamp sockets, one lift gate assembly and the rear lamp pcb board) that you must have access to. It really becomes a nightmare!
What I ended up doing was to map out the areas that I needed to have access to back there. Then I took the piece of angle iron to a local welding shop and had them cut those areas off so I can have access during the install. This allows you to support the playfield PLUS have access back there. BUT...after cutting off those areas the angle iron may become a bit weak so just have them weld a flat metal strip along the rear part of the angle iron to stabilize it.
I found this out the hard way after installing most of it top and bottom! When it was time to install the rear components I felt like vomiting. I had to rest the playfield up against the wall so I could take the angle iron to the shop! Then I had to put it all back in the rotisserie.
So it's best to install your rear panel, side rails and if possible the rear ball guide and secure your playfield with that installed from the get go rather that installing them later. The only solution I found was to clamp the playfield from the hole (where the captive ball cage is at) on the right side of the rear panel.
I would show you a picture of the angle iron but it's at my storage unit. I did a little drawing for you. If you have some other playfield rotisserie that doesn't use angle iron then disregard this message
C4B1542A-2FFA-444D-B782-F9DF8B38ECE5 (resized).jpegA3FA944F-081A-4704-A310-F674B42D4697 (resized).jpeg
Quoted from KornFreak28:Looks perfect! Feels good doesn't? What kind of rotisserie are you using for the playfield? If you are using the "traditional" one where you rest it on pieces of angle iron and use clamps to secure it, I strongly advise you install the rear panel, the side rails and the rear ball guide (rear ball guide if possible) first. Why?
It is easy to secure the playfield without the rear panel installed. There is lots of real estate where you can mount the clamps and secure the the playfield to the angle iron. Once you install the rear panel though, things get a bit more complicated since now all that real estate is gone. You can only secure the playfield from the sides where there still a bit of angle iron available. BUT add the wood side rails and the rear ball guide and things get even more complicated! Now you have no room for the clamps! PLUS, the angle iron (on the very back) will cover important areas (lamp sockets, one lift gate assembly and the rear lamp pcb board) that you must have access to. It really becomes a nightmare!
What I ended up doing was to map out the areas that I needed to have access to back there. Then I took the piece of angle iron to a local welding shop and had them cut those areas off so I can have access during the install. This allows you to support the playfield PLUS have access back there. BUT...after cutting off those areas the angle iron may become a bit weak so just have them weld a flat metal strip along the rear part of the angle iron to stabilize it.
I found this out the hard way after installing most of it top and bottom! When I had to install the rear components I felt like vomiting. I had to rest the playfield up against the wall so I could take the angle iron to the shop! Then I had to put it all back in the rotisserie.
So it's best to install your rear panel, side rails and if possible the rear ball guide and secure your playfield with that installed from the get go rather that installing them later. The only solution I found was to clamp the playfield from the hole (where the captive ball cage is at) on the right side of the rear panel.
I would show you a picture of the angle iron but it's at my storage unit. I did a little drawing for you. If you have some other playfield rotisserie that doesn't use angle iron then disregard this message
Good advice !!! I know I exactly what you have described and it makes total sense !!!!
Quoted from Ricochet:Good advice !!! I know I exactly what you have described and it makes total sense !!!!
Thanks brother! So are you using that type of rotisserie?
Quoted from KornFreak28:Thanks brother! So are you using that type of rotisserie?
Yup
I once saw one of the top restorers do a very cool modification. He did some sort of attachment where the playfield was supported from the sides. He supported the playfield by using some sort of rod that would go through the hole on playfield slides that go on the sides. The kept the rear area free from any obstructions.
Quoted from KornFreak28:I once saw one of the top restorers do a very cool modification. He did some sort of attachment where the playfield was supported from the sides. He supported the playfield by using some sort of rod that would go through the hole on playfield slides that go on the sides. The kept the rear area free from any obstructions.
Funny you should say that... as soon as you posted your comment ... this is exactly what came to my mind!
How long did it take you to disassemble the playfield? Do you desolder everything underneath in order to bathe the wiring harness?
Quoted from Flipper_McGavin:How long did it take you to disassemble the playfield? Do you desolder everything underneath in order to bathe the wiring harness?
My plan from the beginning was to replace all of the coils, microswitches and lamp sockets... so I left them on. I ran all the wiring through the dishwasher 2 times. Some of the molex connectors were really grimy so I replaced anything that didn't really clean up well. I won't be removing the old stuff until I'm ready to put the new stuff on.
It took me about 2 1/2 hours to tear the playfield down... bagging and tagging everything... but leaving everything on the harnesses.
Quoted from Ricochet:It took me about 2 1/2 hours to tear the playfield down... bagging and tagging everything... but leaving everything on the harnesses.
that is pretty quick, and your cabinet looks so good now. All your little metal parts look brand new. I had to polish all my metal parts by hand, yes even the screw heads. i was too afraid of losing track where everything went if i dumped it all in a tumbler. The playfield has me even more anxious how to clean up everything.... metal, metal everywhere
Quoted from Flipper_McGavin:<blockquote
That is pretty quick, and your cabinet looks so good now. All your little metal parts look brand new. I had to polish all my metal parts by hand, yes even the screw heads. i was too afraid of losing track where everything went if i dumped it all in a tumbler. The playfield has me even more anxious how to clean up everything.... metal, metal everywhere
Thank you!
I kept zero small metal stuff and all of the cabinet hardware ... everything has been replaced. It cost a little bit more but I didn’t have it in me to deal with it at that level 
I used steel H and lift channel for this and it is powder coated...
I also am using the CPR back glass...
The issue is the lift channel doesn’t really grip the glass ... nor should it.
However ... I don’t like it flopping around ... Especially when lifting and removing the back glass.
I got some 1/16 x 1/2 foam tape and I used it as a cushion in the channel. Works like a champ!!
BD799081-16AE-4BC4-9937-CBBBF4935EC2 (resized).jpegPlayfield prep...
I sanded the bottom side clean. There was lots of soot and solder paste blobs all over it... and a few heat stains.
A quick pass with 80 grit, then 120 and finish with 220. I used my buddies Festool sander which made nice work of it and kept it clean as a whistle. What a sweet rig that is.
I put 3 coats of Varathane matte water based poly on it. I just wanted something to put a light protective coat and would be easy to to work with. I applied it with a foam brush ... just needed to be careul I didn’t drip into the inserts. I’m super happy with the results.
I forgot to take a good before pic in the same lighting (I’ve only got this old one from when I tore it all down... like over a year ago) ... it really looked considerably more grubby than it does in that first pic.
Need to clean the inserts next.
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Quoted from Ricochet:Playfield prep...
I sanded the bottom side clean. There were lots of soot and solder paste blobs all over it... and a few heat stains.
A quick pass with 80 grit, then 120 and finish with 220. I used my buddies Festool sander which made nice work of it and kept it clean as a whistle. What a sweet rig that is.
I put 3 coats of Varathane matte water based poly on it. I just wanted something to put a light protective coat and would be easy to to work with. I applied it with a foam brush ... just needed to be carful I didn’t drip into the inserts. I’m super happy with the results.
I forgot to take a good before pic in the same lighting ... it really looked considerably more grubby than it does in that first pic.
Need to clean the inserts next.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
Is your pf restoration done? Bottom sanding and insert cleaning are final steps. If you are at the beginning, your pf will see a lot of dirt during upcoming process steps, makes sense to clean the bottom/inserts at the end.
Just my 2 cents.
Quoted from Davi:Is your pf restoration done? Bottom sanding and insert cleaning are final steps. If you are at the beginning, your pf will see a lot of dirt during upcoming process steps, makes sense to clean the bottom/inserts at the end.
Just my 2 cents.
Yes it is done 
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