(Topic ID: 251546)
Linked Games
Indiana Jones: The Pinball Adventure
Williams, 1993
Topic Gallery
Quoted from Ricochet:Fits poifectly!!! It’s clean ... your seeing dust marks on it.
Feeling good again![quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
Hey! The power switch hole should be on the other side! 
Quoted from KornFreak28:Hey! The power switch hole should be on the other side!
Oh you’re funny
With the base removed I am able to replace the cash box divider and transformer shelf with tongue and groove panels. I’m also using a nice grade of maple!
Very pleased with it. I hope to get it stitched up before Monday.
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905E2A5E-7B8B-4B8A-8F7A-4A4FA3B60958 (resized).jpegCB9B1344-EDF1-4596-AB84-BD35D4347A69 (resized).jpegI originally was going to use epoxy. That’s not the right stuff for this job. Epoxy does not wick into the wood and would eventually crack. Titebond III with good clamping is the way to go. I couldn’t be happier with the results so far.
Three more sides to go ... then it’s painting time !!!
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Indianapolis, IN
I admire your efforts for keeping the original cab. I’ve done a lot of cabs, anymore I decide before I start on one if it’s worth my time or not. If not, I just buy a new one. Once you start replacing entire sections, the originality is gone. You can get so many hours tied up in just the cab and in the end it’s not as structurally sound as a new one. Here’s some pics from one of the IJs I replaced the bottom in a few years ago. I split the cab apart to do it so I could keep the factory edge along the bottom of the cab.
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Quoted from Bud:I admire your efforts for keeping the original cab. I’ve done a lot of cabs, anymore I decide before I start on one if it’s worth my time or not. If not, I just buy a new one. Once you start replacing entire sections, the originality is gone. You can get so many hours tied up in just the cab and in the end it’s not as structurally sound as a new one. Here’s some pics from one of the IJs I replaced the bottom in a few years ago. I split the cab apart to do it so I could keep the factory edge along the bottom of the cab.
[quoted image][quoted image]
Thanks... that’s kind of the litmus test for me...”am I going to end up with something that is just going to crack apart in the end?” So far... so good. I considered your method... but I couldn’t get myself to crack the front off. I actually think this now may be a bit stronger than it was. The base is now glued on all sides of the cab... it used to flop in there... I also glued and nailed the transformer and cash box dividers. I think I’m good with it... Not gonna lie... once I decided the base needed to be replaced ... I had my doubts, and was thinking new cab.
Quoted from Ricochet:Thanks... that’s kind of the litmus test for me...”am I going to end up with something that is just going to crack apart in the end?” So far... so good. I considered your method... but I couldn’t get myself to crack the front off. I actually think this now may be a bit stronger than it was. The base is now glued on all sides of the cab... it used to flop in there... I also glued and nailed the transformer and cash box dividers. I think I’m good with it... Not gonna lie... once I decided the base needed to be replaced ... I had my doubts, and was thinking new cab.
I would say your cab is in no way inferior or going to separate. All I’m saying is there is a huge time savings and a better cab in the end. New cabs are CNCd, no contamination, no separated plys, tighter joints, and more than likely better materials.
I restore original cabs too, sometimes it makes more sense to go with a new one in my opinion. You look like you are doing a great job!
Quoted from Bud:I would say your cab is in no way inferior or going to separate. All I’m saying is there is a huge time savings and a better cab in the end. New cabs are CNCd, no contamination, no separated plys, tighter joints, and more than likely better materials.
I restore original cabs too, sometimes it makes more sense to go with a new one in my opinion. You look like you are doing a great job!
I hear ya... I actually drew up plans for this machine and started to put it into Fusion for my buddy to CNC one for me. Came real close. In the end it would have been a lot less mess and overall less time to finish for sure.
Quoted from yaksplat:I'm confused. If you made a new bottom for the machine, why are you making an adapter plate and not sizing it correctly for the speaker?
For reasons only to be a faithful reproduction of the original cabinet. This was originally how the cabinet is built. I've thought about making an 8" plate... hence why I've not glued it yet.
The pro woofer adapter plate in the pic above is just to show fit.
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Quoted from yaksplat:You can't beat a router
Probably one of my favorite if not my absolute favorite power tool. You can do so much with a router, routing table, jigs, templates...etc.
Chocks, cleats or whatever you kids call them 
Sorry for the tight shots... I’ve a very tiny workspace
BTW... I drilled a bunch of tiny holes in that bondo and used construction adhesive (locktite PL MAX) to hold that left piece on. Wood glue no stickie to bondo.
In the interest of accuracy should I bother to drill the 4 T-nut holes in the coin box area? I’m thinking no, make the drill template for it and throw it in the manuals envelope.
Quoted from Ricochet:In the interest of accuracy should I bother to drill the 4 T-nut holes in the coin box area? I’m thinking no, make the drill template for it and throw it in the manuals envelope.
I never put those in
Quoted from cosmokramer:I never put those in
Good to know thanks!
Yeah ... two of them are for a Euro cash box and the other two are for... I don’t know what.
So ... yup they are worthless.
Budapest
Masked, cleaned and first coat of primer done! The crazy tape on the bottom is so I can sit this atop two 5 gallon buckets and not tear the paper
I will hand sand this with 320 once it is dry in a day or two before I hit it with the second coat. This will make a nice smooth finish.
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2 light coats primer ... sanded with 400 between coats.
2 light coats paint sanded with 400 between coats.
Gonna let sit for 3 days... Do another once over and last coat.
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43A93760-1800-4EAA-B713-E0266F25F94E (resized).jpegAwesome job! No way I could do all that 
I would be better off buying a new cab and selling my old one.
Welp... I should be done the main cabinet by now. I’ve a few errors in the finish (where it shows) so I’m going to wait a few days for it to harden up good, do a full sanding (not a deep sand ... just a surface evening) and put the final coat on.
I was in a hurry ... never be in a hurry when it comes to this stuff.
688DC59C-C504-4976-A1A8-7E8F89AAAF29 (resized).jpegA92AC3B7-BB1D-4A76-BC0C-89282A4C4AC6 (resized).jpegI’m re-fabricating the back-box lamp board. The MDF on this machine is flimsy... like the base of the cab... this has got to go. I’ve got plenty of extra MDF so why not.
The lamp socket holes are 5/8”. The recess for the clear post stop is 11/16”. I’m going to use the original as a routing template and a drill guide. Should come out nice.
Harness has been cleaned and is ready to go. One more day for second coat of white and I can cut it.
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Hardest part is officially done (main box anyway)... still have to do the back box. I just don’t have the space to do them at the same time. I’m a bit clumsy so I know my limits.
I’m just too picky ... there is one decent coat in there that I could have lived with... but ya got one shot at it.
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!!! Going away for a week so it’s gonna sit for a bit. I’d rather stay home and finish it 
Quoted from Ricochet:All ready for decallization !!! Going away for a week so it’s gonna sit for a bit. I’d rather stay home and finish it
[quoted image]
Beautiful job! 
1 week later
Indy is patented... and has his little feet.
I anchored a cleat to the bottom of the screen so I could squeegee from the bottom to the top... instead of just relying on the cabinet chock and squeegeeing from left to right. I just felt better about the natural tension the cleat provided... a little tape takes care of any (if any) potential wiggle.
I used a ton of ink but WTF... no chance I’m going to have any voids!
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Couldn’t resist getting the coin door side done !!! Well almost... still need to cut the holes.
I applied this dry. Aligned ... checked, double checked and triple checked again. Clamped, taped then removed half of the backing ... applied the first half of the decal then removed the clamps and applied the second half. No bubbles no wrinkles no bumps. After it was rubbed in I used a roller to press it in... this removes any air in the adhesive and anchors it tight to the substrate.
This just makes me happy! I’ve had these decals since 2011... they sat flat under my bed... waiting.... and waiting.
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Quoted from Ricochet:Indy is patented... and has his little feet.
I anchored a cleat to the bottom of the screen so I could squeegee from the bottom to the top... instead of just relying on the cabinet chock and squeegeeing from left to right. I just felt better about the natural tension the cleat provided... a little tape takes care of any (if any) potential wiggle.
I used a ton of ink but WTF... no chance I’m going to have any voids!
How did you do these rear patent labels? It looks good and im wanting to do the same thing on my IJ.
Quoted from Flipper_McGavin:How did you do these rear patent labels? It looks good and im wanting to do the same thing on my IJ.
Screen printed ... What you see in my post is just the screen and the ink. You don't see me using the squeegee to smear the ink over the lettering. You need to get the screen, squeegee and ink. I got the WPC screening kit (has both the patent text and the caution text for the back box and two squeegees) from merfeldma
It’s a boutique item for sure... but really necessary to do it “right”
There was just no way to get the pillar aligned perfectly. I spent an hour with it...
Perfectly aligning the pillar pulls the decal off the rear... anyway... compromise
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Quoted from yaksplat:Align what the eye sees first.
Yup pretty much what I did ... I’m satisfied. When the leg and all the trim is on it will be fine. I also am good with it because I’m confident I tried all of the options.
Besides these old new decals look spectacular!!! As odd colors yellow and orange are ... I just love the motif of them in this artwork.
Quoted from Ricochet:Yup pretty much what I did ... I’m satisfied. When the leg and all the trim is on it will be fine. I also am good with it because I’m confident I tried all of the options.
Besides these old new decals look spectacular!!! As odd colors yellow and orange are ... I just love the motif of them in this artwork.
You did it right. Bottom section is covered by legs.
You are now officially better than Williams
Look at this flyer...
Screenshot_20191101-091116_Chrome (resized).jpgWhen I restored mine, I aligned the top columns and didn't worry about the bottom columns since they are covered by the leg. No big deal! Use a red and blue sharpie to align them.....Just kidding!
Quoted from Beaumistim:Here's mine from the factory. It's faded but the art doesn't line up there as well[quoted image]
Thanks for the pic! Yup they boogered up the arwork ( or they really didn't give 2 sh*ts) with the alignment. I'm satisfied with my end product.
Quoted from KornFreak28:When I restored mine, I aligned the top columns and didn't worry about the bottom columns since they are covered by the leg. No big deal! Use a red and blue sharpie to align them.....Just kidding!
Yeah right... you're not one I can picture hitting up your machine with a marker!
Quoted from Ricochet:Yeah right... you're not one I can picture hitting up your machine with a marker!
Nope! Haha....Those are expensive decals! You are doing great!
Got the art saver spacers and legs on. Pay no mind to the yellow washers ... couldn’t find my black ones.
Here is a little preview of the color. It’s really REALLY hard to capture. There is subtle gold flake in the black.
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Barrie, ON
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