(Topic ID: 251546)

Indiana Jones Restoration ... "It's not the years honey; it's the mileage."

By Ricochet

4 years ago


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#1 4 years ago

Completed on 05/09/2020

Restoration Photo Album: https://photos.app.goo.gl/PKPTgfgCzVQE7CAc8
Reference Pictures Album: https://photos.app.goo.gl/YqD2j2eZacimqy3g9

Special thanks to the following folks... even if I didn't work with you directly, you have been a vital part of this effort either as reference or inspiration.
CaptainNeo
Robertstone0407
Davi
baloo70
KornFreak28
AaronZOOM
sc93cobra
flashinstinct
CPR
merfeldma
kruzman
Bryan_Kelly
High_End_Pins
cosmokramer
eyeamred2u

... and thanks all of the on-line vendors out there that keep stock or custom make parts for these old toys!

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===================================================================

09/15/2019 - Day 1

In the thick of it now! Still finishing up my RFM resto... I’ve got good momentum so I want to get this cabinet done! I recently got my playfield back from CaptainNeo and it’s going to have plenty of time to harden. Robertstone0407 has done all of the powder coating for this machine, the coin door is done so that is the preview of the finish. My plan is to get this out of the garage in 3 weeks and setup the inside shop for all of the other rework. I don’t think I’ll get to stuffing the top of playfield until December. This is my favorite game ... it will be with me until I’m pushing up daisies...for this reason, this will be a 100% no stone unturned restoration... so there is plenty to do until I start putting screws to the top of the playfield.

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#3 4 years ago

Some quick before shots of the faded rubble

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#4 4 years ago

Cooked off well over an hour tearing down the head ... Wow I am humbled by the amount of hardware in this machine .... thinking of all the people who’s job it was to put this monster together ... all of the different stations along the way. What a machine! I tore down the playfield last October ... I kind of expected that to be a lot of work... and it was but it’s a playfield so yeah right it was. There is something about the cabinet though ... all the anchors, strapping, mounting plates, reinforcements and hinges. It’s awesome!

Everything is accounted for, bagged and sorted... but I’m thinking I’m going to have one last “shit from the bottom of the cabinet” bag tho
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#5 4 years ago

Started diggin’ in. I pulled the speaker plate and power box plate off. I’m going to remove the transformer shelf too. I want to get the base really clean.

Been thinking about the speaker...
I’ve a pinball Pro... I’m thinking of making the speaker plate non standard ... to fit an 8” woofer. I mean does anyone use the stock speaker ?

The little voice in my head said keep it stock dummy!

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#6 4 years ago

220 grit ain’t cuttin’ it! Gruuuuubbby

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#7 4 years ago

120 making a dent. I seriously considered cutting an entirely new cab... (or getting one from one of the folks around that make them). Maybe would have been worth it ... this is one filthy critter. I thought my RFM was dirty ... but considering this is 27 years old and has been who knows where I guess it’s not so bad.

In the end ... having it restored and original “mostly” will be great.
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#8 4 years ago

Oh and I feckin’ HATED tearing that transformer shelf out! But ... it had to be done! No way to get this 100% clean otherwise.

#9 4 years ago

Woodworking tonight !

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#10 4 years ago

While that nice new transformer shelf looks great... its NOT! Dumb a$$ here cut it in reverse... the side not showing is the top surface and if you flip it over... its got a big ol' knot on it and a nasty scuff mark! So I guess I'll be cutting another! Measure twice... cut once, repeat! I think it is important to document your mistakes along with the "pretty" things.

#11 4 years ago

Much better !!! Dry fit perfectly!!!

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#12 4 years ago

Another pass of the innards... there are a couple of solder flux spots on the floor panel from a previous owner/service ... ... may not come all the way out.

Got the side art scraped off... melting side art ... hmmm I’m reminded of melted faces ...

I’ll get behind the legs when I put it up on its side to strip the adhesive.

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#14 4 years ago
Quoted from yaksplat:

Do you have 27 years of arcade working through you sinuses?
Looking good!

Thanks ... In fact I do!!!! LOL!!! I do wear respirator (most of the time) ... but yeah stanky!!!

#16 4 years ago

Years ago when I used to restore vids... I used to be a huge patron of Bob Roberts... it was awesome ... and this security bit set remains a very important part of my set of useful things.

Used it for security but to remove the translite lock.

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#18 4 years ago
Quoted from KornFreak28:

Looking good brother! I restored mine last year and I had a blast! Enjoy!

Thank you! I’ve such a long way to go ... but if I can get back into the house ... before it gets cold ... I’m good to go! Hopefully get through stripping this weekend.

I’ve still got RFM lingering so I’m doing two at once.

#19 4 years ago

Got the method down pat with the heat gun and knife ... simply chase the gun with the knife in a nice controlled manner ... comes off like butta’. If it weren’t for the smell I could do this all day!

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#20 4 years ago

Didn’t realize I was wearing my Indy shirt! Nice try Lao Che !!!!

First pass sanding done !!! Still some adhesive residue left... I’ll get that with the the 120 then finish up with the 220.

Super pleased at the overall condition of this cabinet. Very little bondo and gluing needed !!! The bottom was a bit wonky... almost like it had been exposed to moisture... the surface was raised and flaky. It’s polished nicely now (sorta) !
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#22 4 years ago
Quoted from KornFreak28:

Perfect. Hit that cabinet with some primer, sand and repeat each time using a different grit. I started at 220, did another primer coat, then used 400, then 600 and 800 to finish it off. Man, that cabinet felt like silk when it was all said and done. Highly recommend the extra effort. I used (I think the name is) Killz primer.

I did a similar method on my RFM... I didn’t go to 800 tho. It came out like a Steinway piano

#24 4 years ago
Quoted from yaksplat:

Just make sure you have real oil based kilz

Yup I do! You know they changed the friggin label on it and it’s not easy to tell the difference between it and the latex version.

#27 4 years ago
Quoted from cosmokramer:

"Plenty of parachutes and liferafts"
I love that T-shirt! I have a few shirts that a lot of people dont give a second look to but every once in awhile someone stops me because it clicks with them.

I had one guy that passed me by say... "Too much to drink Doctor Jones?" , I cracked up! Love it.

#28 4 years ago

Things you do when you are up at 5:30 in the morning...

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#31 4 years ago

PinSound Shaker on its way !!!

Perfect timing as I can get it properly fitted prior to finishing the cabinet!

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#32 4 years ago

More filth and fixes today.

The cash box divider is that laminated cabinet material they use for screening directly onto the cabinet. Welp it doesn’t hold glue very well. The blocking wasn’t holding it and it was flopping in place. I popped the blocking, took the heat gun and sander to the divider and cleaned it to bare wood. I’ll put new blocking in before I paint.

I also made a total rookie move on something ... I was in a hurry and created some extra work for myself. I’ll post pics when I’ve repaired it and I’m done kicking myself in the a$$. ... actually you can see a bit of it in one of the pics of this post

Also can I say my favorite tools is my gyroscopic electric screwdriver!!! It’s the shit for this kind of work.
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#33 4 years ago

Taking some good advice...

I am amazed at the how well the overall build of the machine is ... the corners are razor sharp! I’m dealing with shrinkage here.

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#35 4 years ago
Quoted from KornFreak28:

Looking good! I’ve never used a gyroscopic before. What’s the big difference?

You push the button and turn it clockwise or counter-clockwise and it kicks in the drive. Works at any angle. It can be setup for “gun” or straight mode with a twist of the body.

#36 4 years ago

Inside ... Done.
Underside ... Done.

Next is to finish the exterior and bottom edge.

I’ll be glad to get out of this “investment” phase.
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#37 4 years ago

Using the contrast of the sunlight is a great way to see if you’ve gotten all the goo up ... and if you have any imperfections to deal with.

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#38 4 years ago

Here is my royal F*** UP!

I “thought” I broke all the glue away ...
instead of just trying to give the cleat some encouragement ... I whacked it with the hammer...

Welp that delaminated it just slightly

This was a dumb assed amateur move ...
It’s fixed but what a shame.

FWIW...this back panel is a bit “voidy” anyway...which contributed to the level of failure.

Still... dumb
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#41 4 years ago

Gonna have to rethink my next step.

The base of this cabinet has bugged me from day one. It had that raised fluffy/crusty feel to it. I thought I could sand it down... but the structure of it is weakened ... there was humidity / moisture here at one point. The rest of the cab is fine. I can sand this till I’m blue (brown) in the face and it just keeps crumbling.

So I don’t know.. I’m contemplating surgical replacement. Not sure what choice I have... all this work... I’m not just going to live with it.

Done for the day... gonna sleep on it tonight. I think I already know what I’m gonna do... I’m just not crazy about it.
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#42 4 years ago

Ok so it’s been eating me up ... decided to give it a go... I’m feeling better about it.

It’s gonna work out just fine. I’ll make a new bottom using the old one as a template. I’ll reinstall it... glue and clamp with epoxy. I’m going to dye the epoxy a slight tan color (probably ... yeah... likely unnecessary) so it will blend nicely once it’s sanded.

Annoying bump in the road... I was so excited because the cabinet itself wasn’t banged up at all. Not what I wanted to have to do ... but its the right thing to do.
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#43 4 years ago

Cabinet base removal a success. I don’t like looking at it...but it’s going to be just fine when it is repaired.

Since the bottom is out, I can replace the coin box divider and the transformer shelf with proper rabetted panels. All of it will be new on the inside bottom, shelf, blocking, divider and base... done. A while ago I drew up some plans as I was going to re-cut a new cabinet (probably shoulda done that now)... but whatever. I checked what I had drafted for the base of the cabinet against the real thing... they are 100% accurate.

Next steps...

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#47 4 years ago
Quoted from yaksplat:

If you're going this route, you can paint the base and cabinet interior different colors for a good contrast without any masking. Then assemble when the paint is dry.
Dry assemble the whole thing so you have all of your screw holes complete before painting.

I like this idea... I'm thinking about keeping it natural... I like the factory look. Not masking stuff has its appeal!

#49 4 years ago

Got the MDF today... 13 sheets into the stack to find one that wasn’t all f***ed up!!!! Typical Home Cheap-o

Had it ripped at the store ... guy pulled it through the saw all bent and crooked !!! Good thing it’s 49” wide.
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#50 4 years ago

New base ... DONE!

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#51 4 years ago

Fits poifectly!!! It’s clean ... your seeing dust marks on it.

Feeling good again!

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#53 4 years ago
Quoted from KornFreak28:

Hey! The power switch hole should be on the other side!

Oh you’re funny

#54 4 years ago

PinSound Shaker in the house.

I’m noodling where to mount this. Initially I was thinking ... right on the transformer shelf ... but I dunno... is it wise to be shaking that close to the transformer?

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#55 4 years ago

With the base removed I am able to replace the cash box divider and transformer shelf with tongue and groove panels. I’m also using a nice grade of maple!

Very pleased with it. I hope to get it stitched up before Monday.
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#56 4 years ago

Going back together !!!

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#57 4 years ago

I originally was going to use epoxy. That’s not the right stuff for this job. Epoxy does not wick into the wood and would eventually crack. Titebond III with good clamping is the way to go. I couldn’t be happier with the results so far.

Three more sides to go ... then it’s painting time !!!
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#59 4 years ago
Quoted from Bud:

I admire your efforts for keeping the original cab. I’ve done a lot of cabs, anymore I decide before I start on one if it’s worth my time or not. If not, I just buy a new one. Once you start replacing entire sections, the originality is gone. You can get so many hours tied up in just the cab and in the end it’s not as structurally sound as a new one. Here’s some pics from one of the IJs I replaced the bottom in a few years ago. I split the cab apart to do it so I could keep the factory edge along the bottom of the cab.
[quoted image][quoted image]

Thanks... that’s kind of the litmus test for me...”am I going to end up with something that is just going to crack apart in the end?” So far... so good. I considered your method... but I couldn’t get myself to crack the front off. I actually think this now may be a bit stronger than it was. The base is now glued on all sides of the cab... it used to flop in there... I also glued and nailed the transformer and cash box dividers. I think I’m good with it... Not gonna lie... once I decided the base needed to be replaced ... I had my doubts, and was thinking new cab.

#61 4 years ago
Quoted from Bud:

I would say your cab is in no way inferior or going to separate. All I’m saying is there is a huge time savings and a better cab in the end. New cabs are CNCd, no contamination, no separated plys, tighter joints, and more than likely better materials.
I restore original cabs too, sometimes it makes more sense to go with a new one in my opinion. You look like you are doing a great job!

I hear ya... I actually drew up plans for this machine and started to put it into Fusion for my buddy to CNC one for me. Came real close. In the end it would have been a lot less mess and overall less time to finish for sure.

#62 4 years ago

Made the speaker plate today ... that’s all I got in me

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#63 4 years ago

Finally! Last flipping edge repair! I only have 12 clamps... so it’s at least 24 hours per side !!!

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#65 4 years ago
Quoted from yaksplat:

I'm confused. If you made a new bottom for the machine, why are you making an adapter plate and not sizing it correctly for the speaker?

For reasons only to be a faithful reproduction of the original cabinet. This was originally how the cabinet is built. I've thought about making an 8" plate... hence why I've not glued it yet.

The pro woofer adapter plate in the pic above is just to show fit.
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#66 4 years ago

The tedium is done !!!!

Will be blocking and masking tomorrow !!!

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#67 4 years ago

Ready to be tacked ... masked and painted !!!

Man that sucked !!!!

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#68 4 years ago

I like to run the chamfer bit to redo the bottom edge and get a crisp 45 degrees. You just can’t get that with a sanding block. It takes so very little off and really cleans it up nicely.
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#70 4 years ago
Quoted from yaksplat:

You can't beat a router

Probably one of my favorite if not my absolute favorite power tool. You can do so much with a router, routing table, jigs, templates...etc.

#71 4 years ago

Chocks, cleats or whatever you kids call them

Sorry for the tight shots... I’ve a very tiny workspace

BTW... I drilled a bunch of tiny holes in that bondo and used construction adhesive (locktite PL MAX) to hold that left piece on. Wood glue no stickie to bondo.

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#72 4 years ago

In the interest of accuracy should I bother to drill the 4 T-nut holes in the coin box area? I’m thinking no, make the drill template for it and throw it in the manuals envelope.

#74 4 years ago
Quoted from cosmokramer:

I never put those in

Good to know thanks!

Yeah ... two of them are for a Euro cash box and the other two are for... I don’t know what.

So ... yup they are worthless.

#76 4 years ago

Masked, cleaned and first coat of primer done! The crazy tape on the bottom is so I can sit this atop two 5 gallon buckets and not tear the paper

I will hand sand this with 320 once it is dry in a day or two before I hit it with the second coat. This will make a nice smooth finish.
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#77 4 years ago

Scuff sanded with 320... applied second coat of primer.

Looks like a piece of concrete!!! Nice base coat for the paint to stick!
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#78 4 years ago

Final coat of primer ... very pleased with the results so far.

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#79 4 years ago

2 light coats primer ... sanded with 400 between coats.

2 light coats paint sanded with 400 between coats.

Gonna let sit for 3 days... Do another once over and last coat.
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#81 4 years ago

Welp... I should be done the main cabinet by now. I’ve a few errors in the finish (where it shows) so I’m going to wait a few days for it to harden up good, do a full sanding (not a deep sand ... just a surface evening) and put the final coat on.

I was in a hurry ... never be in a hurry when it comes to this stuff.

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#82 4 years ago

I’m re-fabricating the back-box lamp board. The MDF on this machine is flimsy... like the base of the cab... this has got to go. I’ve got plenty of extra MDF so why not.

The lamp socket holes are 5/8”. The recess for the clear post stop is 11/16”. I’m going to use the original as a routing template and a drill guide. Should come out nice.

Harness has been cleaned and is ready to go. One more day for second coat of white and I can cut it.
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#83 4 years ago

Hardest part is officially done (main box anyway)... still have to do the back box. I just don’t have the space to do them at the same time. I’m a bit clumsy so I know my limits.

I’m just too picky ... there is one decent coat in there that I could have lived with... but ya got one shot at it.
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#84 4 years ago

All ready for decallization !!! Going away for a week so it’s gonna sit for a bit. I’d rather stay home and finish it
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1 week later
#86 4 years ago

Indy is patented... and has his little feet.

I anchored a cleat to the bottom of the screen so I could squeegee from the bottom to the top... instead of just relying on the cabinet chock and squeegeeing from left to right. I just felt better about the natural tension the cleat provided... a little tape takes care of any (if any) potential wiggle.

I used a ton of ink but WTF... no chance I’m going to have any voids!

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#87 4 years ago

Couldn’t resist getting the coin door side done !!! Well almost... still need to cut the holes.

I applied this dry. Aligned ... checked, double checked and triple checked again. Clamped, taped then removed half of the backing ... applied the first half of the decal then removed the clamps and applied the second half. No bubbles no wrinkles no bumps. After it was rubbed in I used a roller to press it in... this removes any air in the adhesive and anchors it tight to the substrate.

This just makes me happy! I’ve had these decals since 2011... they sat flat under my bed... waiting.... and waiting.
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#89 4 years ago
Quoted from Flipper_McGavin:

How did you do these rear patent labels? It looks good and im wanting to do the same thing on my IJ.

Screen printed ... What you see in my post is just the screen and the ink. You don't see me using the squeegee to smear the ink over the lettering. You need to get the screen, squeegee and ink. I got the WPC screening kit (has both the patent text and the caution text for the back box and two squeegees) from merfeldma

It’s a boutique item for sure... but really necessary to do it “right”

#90 4 years ago

There was just no way to get the pillar aligned perfectly. I spent an hour with it...
Perfectly aligning the pillar pulls the decal off the rear... anyway... compromise

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#92 4 years ago
Quoted from yaksplat:

Align what the eye sees first.

Yup pretty much what I did ... I’m satisfied. When the leg and all the trim is on it will be fine. I also am good with it because I’m confident I tried all of the options.

Besides these old new decals look spectacular!!! As odd colors yellow and orange are ... I just love the motif of them in this artwork.

#96 4 years ago
Quoted from Beaumistim:

Here's mine from the factory. It's faded but the art doesn't line up there as well[quoted image]

Thanks for the pic! Yup they boogered up the arwork ( or they really didn't give 2 sh*ts) with the alignment. I'm satisfied with my end product.

#97 4 years ago
Quoted from KornFreak28:

When I restored mine, I aligned the top columns and didn't worry about the bottom columns since they are covered by the leg. No big deal! Use a red and blue sharpie to align them.....Just kidding!

Yeah right... you're not one I can picture hitting up your machine with a marker!

#99 4 years ago

I detest ground strapping ! It’s done !

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#100 4 years ago

Got the art saver spacers and legs on. Pay no mind to the yellow washers ... couldn’t find my black ones.

Here is a little preview of the color. It’s really REALLY hard to capture. There is subtle gold flake in the black.

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#101 4 years ago

So I had an f-up today.

I said before I'm kind of clumsy... sometimes even a little messy... especially when I'm in a hurry.

Welp.. today I was using a paint pen to fix edges... It takes some finesse to use these things. Me ... having a limited supply of finesse, I ended up with some of that nice black paint on my hand...

Yup you guessed it ... put a nice black blob in the yellow on the side-art. It was a holy shit f*ck f*ck f*ck F**********CK moment!

Tried to clean it off with a little paint thinner... no dice... it would only take off the surface but left a grey smudge behind. Fortunately the paint thinner doesn't really hurt the artwork.

Next... how do I cover this mess up... "I know... this yellow is almost dead-nuts the same as the Nazdar ink for the silk screen!"

Put a little on the brush... tried to lightly cover it... but no matter what... it was still there... it was better but not great.

Until...

I wiped of the Nazdar ink!!!! IT CLEANED IT BEAUTIFULLY! Absolutely no evidence of the f-up!

Talk about extreme low followed by an extreme high!

#103 4 years ago
Quoted from KornFreak28:

Nice touch! Who did that btw?

Robertstone0407 ... he suggested the color. I was originally going polished brass but then I saw a few done in black and really felt like I wanted to go that route. Robert suggested this gold (which is mainly black) so its really quite elegant. I will eventually get my good camera to try and capture how it twinkles in the light. Its quite awesome.

#105 4 years ago

I splurged on a new transformer. Why not ... at this point you just stop caring about the money.

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#107 4 years ago
#109 4 years ago
Quoted from Davi:

What's wrong about old one?

Nothing ... just grimy.

#111 4 years ago
Quoted from Davi:

C'mon, if I can do it, you can also do it. You have the skill [quoted image][quoted image]

Yup...that’s nice! Probably should have done that...I was in a spending mood.

#115 4 years ago

Man you guys are making me feel like I threw my money into a wood chipper... which ... I did actually

#116 4 years ago

Putting a few things on... I can’t capture the color at all... its not as speck-ly as it looks... It has a gold glow to it.

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#117 4 years ago

Gun done

I just cleaned the switch assembly... got rid of the overspray, replaced the diode insulating tube and molex socket. I also added a couple of zip ties for good measure.

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#118 4 years ago

Few more odds and ends... New mantiss stainless receiver, which are very nice! I went so far as to get all the bolt beads powder coated in the same finish... kind of like eating potato chips ... once you start ... well you know.

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#119 4 years ago

Partially due to space.. partially due to breaking up the monotony of refinishing, I am now working on the back box.

Looks like someone thought it might have been a good idea to touch it up with a marker
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#120 4 years ago

When ya think you’re done bondo-ing. You’re not!

Upon close inspection the top edge had a bad cut! Lots of tear out. All better now, plus it made me go around the edge and get rid of all the grain. Should finish nicely.

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#122 4 years ago
Quoted from KornFreak28:

Looking good! Did you install my planes already?

Funny... I have your planes setup in my "old" man cave. They are sitting on top of my stereo stand. This room is where I'm going to be doing the playfield re-pop... they'll be staring at me the whole time!

I call it my "old" man cave because its setup sort of vintage late 70's.

#124 4 years ago
Quoted from Davi:

And my protectors?

Those are waiting patiently for their place.

#126 4 years ago

The bulk of it is out of the garage ! I’m about 3 weeks behind schedule but I don’t care.

Not gonna lie ... I’m liking the way it looks along side Star Wars.

So many of these are faded... they are so brilliant with fresh artwork !!!
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#127 4 years ago

Primer is done ... we are in a cold snap ... now officially using the heater.

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#128 4 years ago

Working on light board... short of a CNC machine... this is how it’s done (or at least how I did it) manually.

It’s rough cut around the edge. I’m going to do the final route cut when it’s paint is finished.

Clamp factory board down, set the depth of the jig to about 2/3 of the board. Not drilling all the way through so it will have nice clean cuts. Even with a sacrificial board underneath... Drilling through MDF doesn’t always make a nice cut.

Once one side is drilled I used a 1/16 bit to make a pilot for the cut on the other side.

Flip the board ... reset the jig and finish the cuts using pilot hole for alignment.
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#129 4 years ago

Thought I’d start working on rebuilding the power junction box...

Bought a new EMI filter from Marcospecialties.... welp... it’s not a direct fit... and it was overpriced. I ordered it with a bunch of other crap a long time ago so its a loss. Considering all that I've dumped into this thing... its pennies.

Bummer... won’t be working on this tonight.
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#130 4 years ago

Just one more coat of black... and no more spray paint !!!

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#132 4 years ago

I went to rattle cans. I used an HVLP turbine sprayer for my RFM restore. Working the HVLP sprayer inside the cabinet is a bitch ... the cans make it easy to maneuver.

#134 4 years ago
Quoted from KornFreak28:

Used rattle cans as well and got the perfect finish [quoted image]

Yah ya did!

#136 4 years ago
Quoted from KornFreak28:

Here’s after screening the warning text [quoted image]

B-E-A-UTIFUL!!!

#139 4 years ago
Quoted from KornFreak28:

Thanks! In case you are thinking about adding side decals, now is the time! **Pic shows old lock down bar, which was used to test fit the receiver**
[quoted image]

Yeah I’m on the fence with those. I’ve got a set... just haven’t committed to them yet.

#140 4 years ago

Light board is done!

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#141 4 years ago

This thing scares the shit out of me! So far I've only had to do the patent screen... very tiny, easy to do.

I've been staring at this for a few days. Gonna wait until I have the guts and nothing else to do.

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#143 4 years ago
Quoted from dmacy:

I hear you on this but it's not too bad. Plan to have back up to clean it up quickly at the ready. I had my wife stand by while I mucked it up my first round. Practice on something like box is what I should have done. Oh, and have plenty of mentioned supplies at the ready to clean up the screens when you're done!
You're making quick progress!

Thank you!

Yeah I've been just noodling all that can go wrong... and I'm over thinking it. Bryan Kelly has a great video on how to do this...

He's got such a nice work space and has such a cool level-headed-ness about him... makes it look like a walk in the park. It very well may be for some, but with me it won't be so much. I'm just tired of painting and am ready to move on to the next phase so I don't want to have to re-do it.

#147 4 years ago

Got myself a laminated tech chart. I bought one from Marco... nothing special about it... claims to be vinyl. I lost it ... I wasn’t impressed anyway.

So here are three... the top left is the original printed on some really durable stiff ... almost plastic. Only glaring problem is that the circuit board diagram is way off. This has been corrected in the reprints and on-line copies.

Top right is from Treasurecove (I got years ago). It’s almost the same as the original. It’s laminated adhesive backed. It has the circuit board orientation fixed.

The bottom one is the one I downloaded from Peter’s site www.inkochnito.nl and had printed and laminated. It really fits nicely on an 11x17 but when printed on 8 1/2x11 is a little crunched. I think this is the one I’m going with.
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#149 4 years ago
Quoted from Davi:

Original is original...
It's always good to keep a piece of history.

I agree the original will go back on the backside of the light board.

This is for the inside of the cabinet

#150 4 years ago

Done!

I can sleep now !

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#153 4 years ago
Quoted from Kerry_Richard:

Backbox warning... Nicely done! The pressure is off
Can I ask where you got your silk screen? Also, I think there's a smaller screening, I want to say about 4" x 5", near the bottom of backbox. Do you have that one as well?
Kerry

Hey Kerry... here is the info
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/indy-restoration-its-not-the-years-honey-its-the-mileage-/page/2#post-5283342

#154 4 years ago
Quoted from paynemic:

Nice work on the screening!
Were you aware of the announcement of new playfields and radcals for Indy? Just in case you were interested.

Thanks !!! Yup I am aware, and all of that would have been very appealing to me about a year ago . I've put out the cash to restore my playfield and am super happy with it, so the money well (pit) on this one has all but dried up. I don't see myself buying a repro playfield just to keep it in storage. Radcals are really neat but I've the screen printed decals on this one so I'm not going to lose any sleep over that either. But seriously for those just starting a restoration... 1250 for new radcals and playfield set is a great deal IMHO.

#157 4 years ago

Finished cabinet decals ... getting the back box together! Once it’s on the machine I’m going to go around the edge with a paint pen to hide the white edge.

Feels good !!!
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#159 4 years ago

Thanks...

Light board tonight and we start getting this beeyotch back together! I'll be setting up my play field on the rotisserie over the holiday... I simply can't believe its happening. I've had this machine for almost 9 years now (which is also mind boggling) and its finally getting done. I was able to get out of the garage before the snow flies which although later than my original 3 week plan... is good enough.

This weekend will be a big clean-regroup-reorganize

#160 4 years ago

Light board done! Got the back box loaded (except for the knocker)

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#161 4 years ago

Rebuilt power entry box today!

I had my power entry box powder coated with the same finish as the trim. I decided to go with the stainless steel version... I just think it looks better.

I didn’t have any red colored flame proof insulation for the MOV and Thermistor ... I had white ... good enough.

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#162 4 years ago

GI LEDs arrived today as well!

2SMD may be a bit bright for the back box... however I’m installing a mirrored back glass instead of the traditional trans light. So we will see... if I need to go to 1SMD

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#163 4 years ago

I’ve been in restoration mode since August... I started with RFM and went into this one ... they were overlapping at one point.

I’ve got tendonitis so bad I can barely move my arms.

Working a desk job and getting old sucks.

“Goddamit indy where doesn’t it hurt ?!”

#164 4 years ago

Pushing through the pain!

I really love the stainless AC service boxes.. like the lockdown receiver, they are from www.mantisamusements.com they have lots of goodies over there!

The H and U channel as well as the lift trim is metal (got those from mantis too) and is powder coated to match the cabinet trim.

Oh and CPR mirrored back glass ...

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#165 4 years ago

Boards are all clean and reflowed where needed.

I need to replace that dirty little label on the upper right of the mounting plate
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#166 4 years ago

Fixed the barcode label.

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#168 4 years ago

Enjoy ! Made one set printed offset like mine and another centered. Can be printed on any adhesive label and hand cut. I got a cheap 4mm radius cutter from amazon to round the corners.

Print at 100%

https://drive.google.com/open?id=1wzMHAORKXck0itjs4MI0ZsxqYM36bfAv

1 week later
#171 4 years ago
Quoted from mbt:

Great thread Ricochet! I am in the process of redoing my BSD cabinet right now. I am curious about the bottom panel you made. Mine is only 1/4 thick it looks like you used 1/2 for your replacement bottom panel and then routed out 1/4 on the sides. What benefit does this provide? I am guessing it just adds strength by having the bottom panel thicker?
Thanks,
Mike

Hey Mike...

Thank you!! The original design of the cabinet has a 1/4 x 1/4 slot that the base fits into. I suppose the original designers went with the 1/2 MDF because it’s economical and it’s pretty common to fit panels into cabinetry this way. It provides a nice clean edge that can be glued and makes the entire thing solid.

#172 4 years ago

Just a little something while I wait for my joints to heal... I made it so the only thing that's soldered to the switch is the diode.
The only think I kept were the 4 wires and connector pins, everything else is new.
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1 week later
#173 4 years ago

Been super sick... everything has come to a screeching halt. Hope to get back in business before the new year. I’ve got some led harness to make for the Indy Plane Rescue Service... so that will take priority before I start this up again.

#175 4 years ago
Quoted from KornFreak28:

There are 2 more add ons. I’ll PM you later. No rush my friend! Get well soon

Affirmative ! I got one today.

1 week later
#176 4 years ago

How to stop your decal from buckling under pressure.

The gun is not perfect... hence when you anchor it, it digs in and usually causes the decal to buckle at one or more points along the edge or corner of the gun.

Just make a plate out of plexi or lexan slightly larger than the gun flange. This will even out the mounting pressure under the flange of the gun and prevent the decal from puckering.
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#178 4 years ago

Just a little progress... man there is a bunch of crap crammed into this corner !!!

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1 week later
#181 4 years ago

Welp... my wire forms that I had Mike Chestnut (RIP) plate for me years ago had some oxidation spots on them. My fault ... When I took them off I didn’t store them properly

Chris at pinballplating.com saves the day with an exchange for a minty fresh plated set. It was an expense I hadn’t planned but Chris’s work is second to none!!

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#183 4 years ago
Quoted from Davi:

I think it was not your fault. I guess the old one was brass plated, without protective coat. If so, an oxidation is normal, that's why the factory wireform set had also clearcoat.
If the new set is also without clearcoat, then you will see brass oxidation soon.

It was actually clear coated... I think there may have been some areas around the weld (where the long rods connect to the circular forms) where the clear didn't quite cover. Chris's stuff is also clear coated.

#184 4 years ago

Done with the box!

Moving on to the playfied

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#186 4 years ago
Quoted from KornFreak28:

Looks perfect! Feels good doesn't? What kind of rotisserie are you using for the playfield? If you are using the "traditional" one where you rest it on pieces of angle iron and use clamps to secure it, I strongly advise you install the rear panel, the side rails and the rear ball guide (rear ball guide if possible) first. Why?
It is easy to secure the playfield without the rear panel installed. There is lots of real estate where you can mount the clamps and secure the the playfield to the angle iron. Once you install the rear panel though, things get a bit more complicated since now all that real estate is gone. You can only secure the playfield from the sides where there still a bit of angle iron available. BUT add the wood side rails and the rear ball guide and things get even more complicated! Now you have no room for the clamps! PLUS, the angle iron (on the very back) will cover important areas (lamp sockets, one lift gate assembly and the rear lamp pcb board) that you must have access to. It really becomes a nightmare!
What I ended up doing was to map out the areas that I needed to have access to back there. Then I took the piece of angle iron to a local welding shop and had them cut those areas off so I can have access during the install. This allows you to support the playfield PLUS have access back there. BUT...after cutting off those areas the angle iron may become a bit weak so just have them weld a flat metal strip along the rear part of the angle iron to stabilize it.
I found this out the hard way after installing most of it top and bottom! When I had to install the rear components I felt like vomiting. I had to rest the playfield up against the wall so I could take the angle iron to the shop! Then I had to put it all back in the rotisserie.
So it's best to install your rear panel, side rails and if possible the rear ball guide and secure your playfield with that installed from the get go rather that installing them later. The only solution I found was to clamp the playfield from the hole (where the captive ball cage is at) on the right side of the rear panel.
I would show you a picture of the angle iron but it's at my storage unit. I did a little drawing for you. If you have some other playfield rotisserie that doesn't use angle iron then disregard this message

Good advice !!! I know I exactly what you have described and it makes total sense !!!!

#188 4 years ago
Quoted from KornFreak28:

Thanks brother! So are you using that type of rotisserie?

Yup

#190 4 years ago
Quoted from KornFreak28:

I once saw one of the top restorers do a very cool modification. He did some sort of attachment where the playfield was supported from the sides. He supported the playfield by using some sort of rod that would go through the hole on playfield slides that go on the sides. The kept the rear area free from any obstructions.

Funny you should say that... as soon as you posted your comment ... this is exactly what came to my mind!

#192 4 years ago
Quoted from Flipper_McGavin:

How long did it take you to disassemble the playfield? Do you desolder everything underneath in order to bathe the wiring harness?

My plan from the beginning was to replace all of the coils, microswitches and lamp sockets... so I left them on. I ran all the wiring through the dishwasher 2 times. Some of the molex connectors were really grimy so I replaced anything that didn't really clean up well. I won't be removing the old stuff until I'm ready to put the new stuff on.

It took me about 2 1/2 hours to tear the playfield down... bagging and tagging everything... but leaving everything on the harnesses.

#194 4 years ago
Quoted from Flipper_McGavin:

<blockquote
That is pretty quick, and your cabinet looks so good now. All your little metal parts look brand new. I had to polish all my metal parts by hand, yes even the screw heads. i was too afraid of losing track where everything went if i dumped it all in a tumbler. The playfield has me even more anxious how to clean up everything.... metal, metal everywhere

Thank you!

I kept zero small metal stuff and all of the cabinet hardware ... everything has been replaced. It cost a little bit more but I didn’t have it in me to deal with it at that level

#195 4 years ago

I used steel H and lift channel for this and it is powder coated...

I also am using the CPR back glass...

The issue is the lift channel doesn’t really grip the glass ... nor should it.

However ... I don’t like it flopping around ... Especially when lifting and removing the back glass.

I got some 1/16 x 1/2 foam tape and I used it as a cushion in the channel. Works like a champ!!

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#196 4 years ago

Playfield prep...

I sanded the bottom side clean. There was lots of soot and solder paste blobs all over it... and a few heat stains.

A quick pass with 80 grit, then 120 and finish with 220. I used my buddies Festool sander which made nice work of it and kept it clean as a whistle. What a sweet rig that is.

I put 3 coats of Varathane matte water based poly on it. I just wanted something to put a light protective coat and would be easy to to work with. I applied it with a foam brush ... just needed to be careul I didn’t drip into the inserts. I’m super happy with the results.

I forgot to take a good before pic in the same lighting (I’ve only got this old one from when I tore it all down... like over a year ago) ... it really looked considerably more grubby than it does in that first pic.

Need to clean the inserts next.
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#198 4 years ago
Quoted from Davi:

Is your pf restoration done? Bottom sanding and insert cleaning are final steps. If you are at the beginning, your pf will see a lot of dirt during upcoming process steps, makes sense to clean the bottom/inserts at the end.
Just my 2 cents.

Yes it is done
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#199 4 years ago

Reese Rails...

Solid oak ... black lacquer, they look great !
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#201 4 years ago
Quoted from Davi:

Nice - I am sure you can also do this.
I did it for Judge Dredd and White Water, material cost was $5 for 2 games.

Oh yes thank you ... I could have ... I just decided that it was one of a million things to do and Taylor Reese is all setup to do them ... and does them well.

#202 4 years ago

I’ve got to solve this problem. This is the right side apron ball guide. One of the captive nuts had popped out long before I owned it. I can try to re-press fit another... don’t think that’s gonna work. Captive nuts are kind of a one and done thing. Sourcing this part will be next to impossible.

It would be cool if I knew a welder who could spot weld an 8/32 nut in its place... anyone? Anyone ?
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#204 4 years ago
Quoted from KornFreak28:

That would work

I've been thinking about this friggin problem since the day I got it home 9 years ago. Now I have to deal with it. LOL

#205 4 years ago

Fixed! I had the welder do them all for good measure !

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#206 4 years ago

Every socket on the GI/lamp harness has been replaced.

I added the missing lamp to the string up by the INDY roll overs.

I also fixed the new pop bumper lamp sockets. The leads are spot welded and often break so I added a bit of solder to them.
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#209 4 years ago

Made a “mod” panel ... for whatever additional back box PCBs I’m adding. Now that it’s pristine ... I’m not crazy about sticking or drilling anything on/in the box.

PinSound shaker control PCB will be the first (and probably only thing) that gets mounted here.
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#211 4 years ago
Quoted from gearhead:

Amazing work you’re doing on this machine Ricochet! I just discovered and read through your whole thread. Very informative since I’ve just started my own IJ restore.
I’m about to start on the cabinet and I’m curious what brand and sheen of black rattle can did you use?
Also, where did you get the inside art blades? Those are the best I’ve seen but I can’t find that style anywhere.

Thank you for the compliments!!!

I used Rustoleum Painters Touch semi gloss. Just be sure when you purchase it you buy it all at once... (or at least for each coat) for consistency sake. Also don’t empty the can on the finish coat. As they get low ... your finish can get inconsistent.

I had a friend of mine print those art blades for me.

Have fun with your restore... just remember when you think you have everything you need ... you don’t

#212 4 years ago

I splurged and got all new trough components! I also got new drop target assemblies. Eff IT go big or go home!

As Belloq would say (right before his head explodes) ... “It’s beautiful!”

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#213 4 years ago

Some new assemblies...

3 bank and single drop targets and ball kicker.

Coils freshly wrapped with Williams coil wrappers.

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#216 4 years ago
Quoted from cleland:

Solid work and looking great! I know the amount of blood, sweat, and tears that go into restoring this game. 3 years ago I did mine up pretty nice....wish I still had it
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/my-restoration-of-indiana-jonesthe-orange-edition
Keep up the great work!

Thank you! Pretty cool choices on that Indy... it came out fantastic!

There is so much to the process... sometimes I feel like I'm going delirious from the never-ending... oh that needs to be cleaned, or that needs to be fixed. I'm not seeing myself parting with this machine unless someone wants to offer me an ungodly amount of money for it... and even then... mmmm i dunno.

#219 4 years ago
Quoted from Mr_Frog:

Where'd you get those wrappers?

Planetary Pinball... go to parts store and search for coil wrappers. They have sets for most of the popular games and they are of very good quality. They are pricey in my opinion... but it is what it is.

#221 4 years ago
Quoted from Bryan_Kelly:

Just be aware, over time, they will slowly start to unwrap. When I install them, I use contact cement on the last inch or so.

Oooh man thanks for the tip Bryan !!!!!

#223 4 years ago
Quoted from Davi:

...or just buy colored A4 paper, and print your own wrappers based on Inkochnito's file. $0.2 per machine.

Yeah... I know... I pay for shit that I don't have to.

#225 4 years ago
Quoted from Mr_Frog:

So do the ones from Planetary have the wax coating on them (or whatever is on the original ones)?

They feel coated. Not entirely sure if the coating is the same as OEM... however they are certainly not plain paper. They are made from a masking tape-like material.

#228 4 years ago
Quoted from KornFreak28:

Leave the coating on and only peel about a 1/4 inch or so. Looks much better with the coating on than without since it will wrinkle and stick unevenly on the coil.

I don’t think the coating will come off without destroying the thing.

#230 4 years ago
Quoted from KornFreak28:

Sorry I meant the paper backing before they are installed. If you already stuck them on the coil, It’s too late I’m afraid
Wrapping them around the coil with most of the paper backing on makes for a better and cleaner look since you avoid the wrinkles and uneven surfaces.

AHHHH I see.. ok yeah too late. The wrinkling isn't terrible... of all the imperfections in this restoration... this is one I can live with

#232 4 years ago
Quoted from KornFreak28:

But since you like splurging......HAHAHA

Nope... 40 bucks for tape is a one time purchase even if I were put them through the shredder.

#233 4 years ago

Planning something for the back panel of the playfield... cutting with a computer controlled device may be involved
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#234 4 years ago

Time to start with the tumbler ...
(took the pic in the kitchen... this isn’t where I’m running it )

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#236 4 years ago
Quoted from AaronZOOM:

Daaaaamn...
And here I thought I went hardcore when I restored my Indy machine. I thought I brought it as close to "factory new" as I could, but the depth of your restoration puts mine to absolute shame. And that mirrored backglass...I want that. How come I can't find that?
Well done! Everything looks just fantastic. I can't wait to see the finished result.

Thank you ! Definitely a labor or love ... or psychosis !!!

#237 4 years ago

Insert cleaning ... started to get ahead of myself and almost forgot

Went to amazon and bought the mother of all cotton swab assortment!

Cleaned with a 1:3 simple green:water mixture...

Those big tip swabs work great at picking up the cleaning solution and dirt.

They weren’t all that dirty ... but it needed to be done.
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#238 4 years ago

Did a quick LED test. This machine used to have colored LEDs for the inserts.

I’ve always thought ... yeah I’ll just leave them. Colored LEDs for inserts are fine right?

NOPE! I’m going with sunlights from Cometpinball.

That green just kills the red gradient, yellow and even the black colors of the insert. The last pic is the comet sunlight. It’s a frosted 2SMD. I’m going to try clear and no lens regardless... it looks spectacular! The ADVENTURE inserts need to use the flex bulb... so those will need to be a 1 SMD

For the record I don’t necessarily think that colored LEDs are always bad for inserts... you just need to be aware of the colors of the artwork and LED color choice when making a decision to use LEDs. For example a green LED would do fine on the green inserts of the wings on this playfield... as they are pure green. But for me I won’t mix ... I will keep them all alike.

I’m running these a little under voltage but both LEDs are placed at same distance to the insert. Also since it is at a reduced voltage the 1SMD may actually be better once I’m running at the correct voltage...either way green ain’t it!

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#240 4 years ago
Quoted from okgrak:

I rarely use colored bulbs in inserts. Occasional it works well, but there is a loss in lumens, and gradients or colored artwork on top of insets tend to look washed out or muted. IJ is a perfect example, especially the mode inserts.

Yup! I put this CoinTaker kit in years ago... I’ve learned so much since then and LEDs have come a long way. No more colored inserts. Makes buying LED kits a breeze!

#242 4 years ago

Ron Kruzman clear coat prep kit. This thing is the sh1t but looks like it belongs on Breaking Bad

Pop bumper twist screw prep was a breeze ... kruzed right through it !!!
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#243 4 years ago

Tumbling is one of the few easy things that just happens “automatically” in the restoration process .... almost like getting a gift.

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#244 4 years ago

I’m trying these clear bumper bodies to get more illumination.

I don’t know... I’m not 100% sold on it yet. I’m afraid they will end up looking like crap.

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#246 4 years ago
Quoted from Davi:

Don't worry, this is good. I have red transparent in my IJ.
I see you go on LED way. I have ended up incandescent at GI, it gives a charm back to Indy, LED was too steril to me. IJ has many plastics and GI bulbs. The light dispersion of incandescent bulb is much better (more even). A freshly restored and cleaned pin, like yours can be lit well by standard new bulbs.

Yup I’m totally with you on the incandescent lamps. The sunlights are really quite good and I’m going to run with them for a bit to see how I like it. Also I’m going to be using the LEDOCD module to control my insert LEDs.

#249 4 years ago
Quoted from Davi:

Another hint: the bottom center of pf is dark, a starpost light helps (I don't like spotlights).
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/ij-williams-you-cheat-dr-jones-club/page/74#post-4610841

I have some of those ! I’ve been going back and forth on whether or not to use them. Thanks for the pic !!

#250 4 years ago
Quoted from Mr_Frog:

I did LED OCD boards for both the GI and the inserts on my Jokerz! and DUDE, it was money well spent. It completely eliminates the most major complaint I have about LEDs in these games (besides people who use them that have no concept of a color palette). I probably went through two or three sub-iterations of bulb colors for some of the things on my table before I arrived at bulb colors I was happy with.

Yeah I’ve been going back and forth on it. In attract mode with LEDs Indy kind of looks almost random because of the loss of attack and decay of light when using LEDs. Honestly after I saw how great the inserts looked with the plain sunlight LEDs, that sealed the deal for me on the LEDOCD. For the GI ... I’m not sure ...
Indy has no fade effects BUT there is some flicker that’s noticeable even with non-ghosting. So I may end up getting the GI unit as well.

#253 4 years ago
Quoted from KornFreak28:

...There is a reason why you are doubting this decision.

Yup... I generally don’t like friggin with the look of the playfied... this is something I thought I wanted a LONG time ago... and now that I have to make the decision ... mmm not so much.

#256 4 years ago

Here is both ... I’m going with the traditional body.

#1 I don’t like the look of the lamp socket in there.

#2 The clear looks cheap to me.

#3 The lighting is harsh (understand this has to do with the lamp) ... the solid body softens the light.
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#259 4 years ago

Jet bumpers... they truly are a semi-permanent installation.

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#261 4 years ago
Quoted from dmacy:

I like the clear bodies myself in your picture and what I’ll likely do with my own.

Pm your address I’ll send them to you

#263 4 years ago

You’re funny ... but I’m being serious... I’m happy to pass them on. Turned out they weren’t for me but I don’t want them sitting around collecting dust.

#266 4 years ago
Quoted from KornFreak28:

Ooops I thought you were being funny

#268 4 years ago

Experimenting cutting an acrylic back board. Still have some tweaking to do before it’s 100%

0.75 cast acrylic is some hard stuff!


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#269 4 years ago
Quoted from Davi:

Just look for "Star post light" in webshops, like:
https://www.pinballlife.com/star-post-lighting-kit-set-of-2-lights.html
You can also buy from Comet I guess. I have these from Aliexpress, sunlight versions, much cheaper.
I am also working on Judge Dredd. This pin has only about 16 GI sockets (including 4 at slings), so I have to also apply additional light. These star post lights are also applicable for double star posts. Please share your experience about this later.
This is my White Water with star post lights, the PCB is not visible.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

I will probably experiment with the star post lighting before I'm done. I think in some cases it can really help illuminate darker areas. Indy is fairly open but I'll give it an honest evaluation. Thanks for the pics!!!

#271 4 years ago

The upgraded ball trough from Marcospecialties has fit issue on my machine ... just an FYI. I’ve contacted Marco so they are aware. I understand there are tolerances but right-most machine screws do not align with the holes in the playfield at all... it’s a bummer.
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#273 4 years ago
Quoted from okgrak:

is having the upgraded ball trough worth drilling the playfield underneath the apron?

I’ve been noodling that. It doesn’t add a whole lot ... my machine didn’t have trough issues. The holes need to be elongated outward for it to fit.

... and truthfully... it’s pretty darn secure with the 4 screws. A proper fit for a $125 part would make me feel a little better.

#274 4 years ago

Pop bumper playground is done !

All of my coils will be getting connector-ized BTW

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#276 4 years ago
Quoted from KornFreak28:

What solution did you go with for the rotisserie (real panel area)?

I actually cut a scrap piece for the backboard (for now until I get my new one fabbed) and am using it as the anchor

I had purchased the cheap a$$ rotisserie from Marcospecialties a long time ago and I wanted to see if I could make it work. It works very well.

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#277 4 years ago

Shiny posts ... new Cliffy ... pinballdecals target decals.
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#278 4 years ago

Replaced all the sockets on the lamp insert PCB.

These don’t solder well. Four of them were very loose, I could just pull them out. It doesn’t help that the 3’rd prong isn’t really long enough and the board is single sided with no feed throughs.

To extend the third prong and to get the solder to wick better, ultimately improving the adhesion ... I used a little wire as a wick.

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#280 4 years ago
Quoted from Mr_Frog:

Yep, I'm finding that I am going to have to do the same thing to most, if not all of my light boards on my Dredd. Good tip on the wire wick...I will be using that one!

Tin it and dip it in flux too!

#281 4 years ago

Replacing roll-overs. I was going to put 2 pin .062 pin and socket pigtails but I’m not crazy about all those connectors bulking up the harness bundle.

I decided to go with a leaner approach. The QD clicks on so it’s fully engaged.
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#283 4 years ago
Quoted from Mr_Frog:

So, another question: Did you re-use the wireform from the old switch, or did you buy new switches with the wireform already on them? The reason I ask is that I have a couple of switches on my Jokerz! that can be intermittent from time to time. The problem is that the switch with the proper wireform is unobtanium. I have given some though to coming up with a process to either fab up, or farm out a process to re-make the wireforms, but then life got in the way and that idea got put on the back burner.
By the way, I am thoroughly enjoying this thread.

I just purchased new switches. Fortunately these are common. However ... I did install the original wire form on the new switch and it works perfectly with the new switch body. So you should be ok to transplant it.

Glad you’re enjoying it! I feel like I may be seeing some light at the end of this 1-1/2 year long tunnel !!!

#284 4 years ago

My Titan kit. I don’t like colored rubber rings... in fact I think the stock black looks the absolute best. White also works, but Imma sticking with black.

My major deviation is with the posts. I’ve chosen to make most of the posts green ... except the two for the captive ball, those will stay stock yellow. I have also changed the two posts around the center target to red.

I will be using red standard rubber for the flippers though.

If I don’t like the way it looks... all the colored (except yellows) will go stock black.

BTW I did create this kit in the Titan database. It does include the flipper rubbers even though I personally don’t use them.
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#286 4 years ago
Quoted from Davi:

Just for records, the original rubber color is white

Nope it’s black

#288 4 years ago

Son of A-b***!!! How did I miss that all these years !!!!

I’m an idiot!

#290 4 years ago
Quoted from Davi:

I am sorry
If you like black rubber, go for it.
Factory doesn't mean that was the best choice. Personally, I like the white set, it gives a clean look to almost every pin.

Look what I found ... a white kit !!!! HA!!! I must have been delusional...
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#291 4 years ago

I’ve got most of the roll-overs installed. Still need to do INDY. If you go this route pay attention to the side the bracket touches the switch body... and put the diode along the other side. This will avoid a potential short caused by installation.

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#292 4 years ago

POA gear box clean... sort of.

So I decided to crack open the POA motor gearbox to clean it and re-lube. The only way in was to drill out the rivets.

Welp once I got it open... I soon realized ... it’s fine. Grease is not caked and has a nice viscosity. Well shit.

So now that it’s open and I need to put it back together ... I decided to drill and tap for some #6 screws. It all worked out great. I still intend on cleaning the gear box thoroughly and re-lubricating with synthetic grease... just not today. Besides I can get in and out anytime I want now

BTW... prolly gonna change those screws out for hex heads... make it more pinball-y

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#294 4 years ago
Quoted from Mr_Frog:

Another question about your switches, more specifically about the spade connectors that you are using: Are you using the narrow spade connectors that are only as wide as the prong? I've been looking locally and can only find the standard width ones. I would love to swap out a couple of hard-to-get-to switches with spade connectors, as soldering them is a bitch.

I got mine from DigiKey, they are the correct size for the switch spade lugs.
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#296 4 years ago

Metal ramp refinish ...

400,600,1000 and maroon scuff pad.

Wet sanded, washed with purple power in between. Final buffing with the scuff pad. Don’t mind the dog toys ... I wanted to get good light on it
Took about 45 minutes.

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#298 4 years ago

Elbow grease ! Thanks for the tips!

#299 4 years ago

Ramp flap riveted! That’s not a ball trail on that ramp... Is the shadow of the edge.
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#300 4 years ago

I sent my subway to Chris at pinballplating.com to be re-chromed. I tried like hell to polish it... no dice.

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#302 4 years ago
Quoted from KornFreak28:

What size are those rivets please?

Those are 1/4” and are too big... they need to be 3/16”. I used washers on the back side to take up the space. Plenty of clearance for them.
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#303 4 years ago

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#307 4 years ago
Quoted from AaronZOOM:

I know I'm a few days late, but the stock flipper rubbers for the Indy are black. Straight from the horse's...manual.
I always wondered why you see so many IJ with red flippers - not that it looks bad, not by a long shot. Somewhere along the way it was widely adopted by owners, but I myself am a big fan of the clean black rubber on white bats with the white rings all 'round.
And though I like keeping my IJ as stock as can be, I've only made simple reversible additions. For instance, I replaced the captured ball for the 'get the treasure' mode with a gold-plated ball. 'Cause it's treasure! Feel free to use that one.

Yup stock is black for flippers, I generally use red because it is a bit cleaner than the black and I can see when it gets cruddy. To me its more about not using silicone or superband type material ... I don't prefer the way they play.

I actually DO have a gold plated ball for my captive ball. I wasn't sure how the plating would hold up... so I've not committed. In reality, this game will get far less play in its remaining life than it ever has... so it probably won't be an issue.

#308 4 years ago

Pig tailed and put .062 molex connectors on each of the target switches.

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#310 4 years ago
Quoted from AaronZOOM:

I've had the gold ball in my game for over 10 years, and though it's a little scuffed from the years (or the mileage) it still looks great. No need to second guess that one.
I've got to save the gallery from your restoration. It's so in-depth, I bet it'll come in handy as a reference in case I ever have to strip mine down. Thanks for sharing so much detail.

Thank you! I still have a way to go. I'm hoping to get all of the switches done by the weekend. I've still got to rebuild the solenoid harness (it needs all new lamp sockets... and I need to pigtail all of my coils).

Then I will start working on the topside. I kind of do things in a pseudo random fashion just to break up the monotony of it all. Like deciding to clean the gear box... or refinishing the ramp. The vibratory polisher has been running off and on for two weeks now. I should have got the larger one. Its really too small for doing the larger stuff like coil brackets (or more than one at a time).

On the topic of polishing... I've found even though it would be great to polish everything up and re-use it... it makes no sense in many cases. Coil stops and linkages (anything metal on metal) are worn and it just makes more sense to buy new ones. The only brackets I've kept are the IJ specific ones that are unobtainium. I've kept no screws... every one is new. Anything that didn't come clean in the polisher (posts, post studs, etc...) I just bought new as well. When you get this far ... you just don't want to put anything back on the machine that doesn't meet your standard of the restoration.

#312 4 years ago
Quoted from Davi:

In HUO environment, what's the point of additional tons of Molex connectors for switches, coils? Please don't tell easy access/service

I cannot give you a good reason. Lunacy... probably is closest to the truth.

#314 4 years ago
Quoted from AUKraut:

I do it as well on my restos, I'd rather do as much soldering at the workbench as possible instead of at the machine with all the wires and other things in the way on a playfield propped in a semi-vertical position.

Yeah that's it .... that's actually good reason ... I'm going with that.

#315 4 years ago

It’s not tidy yet... but all the playfield switches (except on flippers) are done !!!

I’ll complete tidying when the solenoid harness is attached.

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#316 4 years ago

I love this sound ...

#317 4 years ago
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#318 4 years ago

Solenoid / Flasher harness has been re-socketed ...

This was great, nice easy solitary Sunday afternoon with the soldering iron, the computer and ... “Alexa... play the soundtrack to Raiders of the Lost Ark”
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#319 4 years ago

Getting the coils wired in!

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#320 4 years ago

Discovered a nice little stress fracture...

New one on the way

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#321 4 years ago

Cleaned an re-lubricated the idol gearbox. Sorry for the rehash... but this is the second half of the previous POA gearbox work. This one unlike the POA gear box, was quite dry... so cracking it open was not a waste of time.

Simple stuff ... (I drilled out the rivets and tapped as before)... then just degreased the heck out of it. I also put the shaft in my drill chuck an ran it over some 1000 grit and scuff pad to get it clean.

Gooped it with some synthetic grease and put it back together.

Provided the motor doesn’t fail... should be good forever.

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#322 4 years ago

Idol rotator done. Tumbled the metal, cleaned the wiring... Easy nuff.

I decided to use what’s available of the two threaded holes of the gearbox to attach 1/4” cable clamp for neatness sake. Maybe a bit overkill but the wiring looked like a hair ball around that nice clean assembly.

... also you need to clean the clear out of the t-nut holes... don’t go whacking it in! #1 you may damage your nice playfield and #2 it probably won’t go in.
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#324 4 years ago
Quoted from KornFreak28:

Could you please do a little tutorial on how to remove the tiny screw that hold the Idol gate? Thanks!

Yup ... that’s coming up next!

#326 4 years ago

Eject cam for the mode hole... polished it up ... was going to use it... upon closer examination... it has some compression wear. Not too significant, but I will be getting a new one. Anything that can be new (within reason) will be... especially the metal on metal stuff.

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#327 4 years ago

Welp .. I’m bailing on the “upgraded trough”. The metal work on it is improper. The balls actually cannot eject. I’m returning it.

It’s a shame... I really like the rail design of the ball chute.

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#329 4 years ago
Quoted from twinmice:

Cant you bend that out? It looks like it got bent in?

Nope ... it’s made this way... The bend is too “correct” to look like it got bent after the fact. It’s also heavy gauge steel so it’s not easily bent. Unfortunately it’s a goof... #2 goof on this design.

#330 4 years ago

I need some new rule cards for this machine. I've some I got years ago from pinballdecals. They are nice but I don't care for photographic imagery on this pin. I need someone to put together a set that uses the same artwork style as the cabinet art or the same as the translite. I think I'd prefer the cabinet artwork inspired design over the translite art... just to keep it simple and so that it matches the apron. Anyway... just thinking about this because I feel like I'm over the hump of nuts that is this restoration.

Oh... and this is something I've ZERO aptitude for... never played with illustrator or anything like that.

#332 4 years ago

I saw those... a bit cluttered... and some of them have Crystal Skull stuff. There is one in there that is to slightly to my liking.

#334 4 years ago
Quoted from Pahuffman:

We don't speak of Crystal Skull or Kathleen Kennedy around here.

Hahaha! You repeated it !!!! LOL

#336 4 years ago
Quoted from AaronZOOM:

Now, Illustrator and Photoshop are where I shine. And, like you, I've never cared for the cluttered or photographic rule cards out there - in fact, I use the standard white-on-black rule card and a simple price card (despite not even having coin mechs) for that classic, in-the-arcade look.
But since your pin is deserving of something nicer, maybe I'll throw my hat in the ring and put something clean together. Time permitting!

Oh man that would be so generous of you but I would compensate you for your time !!! For the rules card I sketched out one that was black with the red and light blue lining of the pillars on the artwork... also another with a light sunburst. For the pricing I re-used the wing that is on the front of the cabinet... put Freeplay in indy font on it with gradient suburst. Everything line drawn of course... but thats as far as I can go with it. I fired up inkscape but lost interest rather quickly.

Anyway... you get what I am after.

#338 4 years ago

Something like this ... even simpler is acceptable ... I would like it to fit the artwork of the cab but you are right with matching it to the apron art.
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#341 4 years ago
Quoted from AUKraut:

Pinballrebel.com has got a couple of nice IJ instructions cards.....

Thanks for that link!!!! Those aren't too bad... but I'm still looking for something a little different.

#342 4 years ago
Quoted from AaronZOOM:

Fantastic. I will absolutely use this as the template, though I may make some adjustments for spacing and whatnot.

You don't even have to go this way... this was sort of what initially popped into my head... feel free to do whatever. THANK YOU!

#343 4 years ago

Replacing the rotator lock... Get the tool for the job... 3/32 roll pin punch. I got a cheap set...

First drive out the old pin... look for one side to be a bit further in and drive from that side.

Notice that one side of the through hole is beveled... this is the side you want to drive the pin into. The tapered edge will allow the pin to go in easier.

Next you need to build the assembly, getting the bracket, spring and C clip in place.

Before driving the pin in with the roll pin punch I used an old spike with a nice flat edge to get it started. A quick tap or two will do. You may be able to skip this step but it’s a bit tricky holding everything in place during the start of the process.

Once it’s started use the punch and tap it all the way in. You want to keep the plastic against the wooden block. Contrary to what you may think the plastic is not brittle ... it’s actually somewhat soft... which is a good thing.

That is it.

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#344 4 years ago

Cliffy protector and Mantiss deflector...
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#346 4 years ago
Quoted from AaronZOOM:

Ah, there's nothing quite like clean vector lines and classic halftone gradients!
I used your sketches as the layout, but I swapped the content because I thought it worked a bit better that way - especially having the rules framed by the black pillars. Though I didn't stick to the simple red/yellow scheme of the apron decals, I didn't use any colours that weren't on the cabinet itself. I re-created all the artwork as vectors, and let me tell you it was quite a task to remove the Indy logo from in front of the wings, only to cover up all my hard work with more text. So I have a clean vector version of those wings, I guess, should I ever need them!
One thing I've always loved about the artwork on pins is that halftone silkscreening, which I've mostly replicated here. Though I kept a subtle gradient in the "Indiana Jones" and "Free Play" text to make it pop, everything else is pure halftone dots comprised of the same yellow, blue and red shades.
I'm just posting a low res JPG here for now, mostly because I don't want people trying to grab and print out a low quality preview version. When you're happy and I'm happy, I'll post up large, clean, printable versions for everyone to enjoy.[quoted image][quoted image]

F*****G BRILLIANT! AWESOME !!!!! SOOOOO PERFECT!!!!

#349 4 years ago
Quoted from AaronZOOM:

Let's just say it's my way of giving back to the community. In the early days of owning my IJ, I got a lot of help from community members, most notably Garrett Lee, who literally wrote the book on shopping this pin and saved me countless times when I was in over my head.
Anyway, somebody might have had a problem if I sold 10k pieces of artwork that I don't own the licensing rights to.

#354 4 years ago

Just about finished with the underside ... I only need to install the diverter coil. I’ll get a complete pic when it’s all done. Oh and I’m still waiting for the subway bracket to come back from getting re-chromed.

I’m still working the issue with the upgraded trough. I’ve returned it... Marco was really great... they always are. My original is just to worn/grimy for this project.
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#355 4 years ago

Apron work today...
Years ago I got screened decals (when I got the artwork). I was a little worried about removing the print mask... however it all worked out great !

Also had the apron powder coated. There was som damage around the one screw that was missing the nut (the piece I had welded). There’s a little pitting around the screw hole but the coating camouflages it well enough.

Score/pricing cards were printed on my printer. Getting them professionally printed on card stock before this is finished. The color is not quite right... kinda pink
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#357 4 years ago
Quoted from AaronZOOM:

Looks good! But yeah, my printer has a hard time with orange/red tones too. Everything looks desaturated. Hoping that quality inks take care of that.

Yep it’s a 3 color tank printer... it just can’t do it. Clarity is really good.

#358 4 years ago

Rebuilt the gate assemblies... flaps were rusted and worn.

Kept the main bracket and replaced all of the wires and flaps.
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#359 4 years ago

... a little night light... yeah that’s right incandescent flashers!

I’m thinking of ditching those titan yellow post sleeves. I just hate that fluorescent yellow. Going to a couple different colors.
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#361 4 years ago
Quoted from KornFreak28:

How did you test this out of the game? Is the harness already plugged in? I’ve heard of other ways but didn’t try them when I restored mine.

It is not connected to the game... I clipped my bench top power supply right onto the strand (on a lamp socket) directly.

#363 4 years ago

Metal is happening !

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#364 4 years ago

Couldn’t resist a little build out and some illumination

Oh BTW the nuts on that side plastic are temporary... metal work goes there.
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#365 4 years ago

Clear acrylic back board is cut! Took a bit of work to get the tooling right to cut this bad boy! 3/4” (actually this is .70) is hard as hell! It’s pretty close to, if not bulletproof. You need single fluted unidirectional cutting bits. I’ve a really great friend with some really cool equipment!!!

I’ve to finish it (black out areas) and get the lighting done right.
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#366 4 years ago

POS Harbor Freight tumbler is done... by done I mean dead.

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#368 4 years ago
Quoted from Elicash:

Yea mine lasted about half a restoration. I ended up buying the one from Cabela's. Was about 20-30 bucks more than HF but Cabela's have a lifetime warranty. It has worked well so far (about a 1.5 years in).

I had a feeling it wasn't going to make it. I actually just finished the last two things ... just made it to the finish line!

#370 4 years ago
Quoted from LynnInDenver:

And by the rules of tools... you killed a cheap tool through regular use... so you buy the good (if expensive) tool to replace it, as you're clearly going to be using it.

Right on!

#371 4 years ago

Oh what a difference a professional print job makes!

Colors on these cards are awesome!

I had them printed on 80 pound paper. It’s not as rigid as a postcard. Mainly because of the way they fit in the apron. If the card is too thick it doesn’t sit flat.

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#373 4 years ago
Quoted from AaronZOOM:

Turned out great! So happy to see the final look properly translated from screen to sheet.
Honestly, putting them out in the wild - I actually worry about people printing them from tiny JPEG previews on their $30 inkjet, with "scale to fit page" turned on, on standard document paper. Oh, the humanity!

I would advise people to avoid home printing this (if you want the proper hues). Can’t wait to put them on!

#374 4 years ago

Preview... This looks great! Enough with the cards already right ??? I know I know... but I just think they are the sh1t!!!
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#377 4 years ago
Quoted from CoPinfan:

Every printer will vary. I printed mine on a photo printer on high quality. The colors are perfect and I like the glossy look.

Yup... my printer makes them look pink

#379 4 years ago
Quoted from Lamprey:

Awesome restore!
I don't know how I missed this thread when you started, so I'm late to the party. But, everything looks awesome and it's getting close to the finish line!!
Looking forward to seeing what you are cooking up with the back-board..
Cheers!

Thank you! Yep it’s getting exciting now!

I’m hoping to get the back board fitted and lit this weekend. Fingers crossed !

#380 4 years ago

Posts ... I’m using polycarbonate washers underneath ... sure it’s pointless but it makes me feel good.

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#382 4 years ago

The thing I decided to do ...

I was going to just use the backboard and route the channel for the lamp board... and be done.

Well a couple of people... Davi (thank you) and some pics I saw of @averell’s machine ... convinced me to do this.

All the basic cuts were done with the CNC. I just needed to add the mounting holes for the “lost” plastic and the wood screws that anchor it to the playfield.

I’m going to work on blacking out the non-artwork spaces next.
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#383 4 years ago

Finished ...

Foil tape is magic here! Thanks for the tip
Davi !!!

How do you mount t-nuts and twist screws in acrylic? With a soldering iron of course !!! This little iron had a bit of a time with them... but she had just enough power to do it.
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#384 4 years ago

Sunlight LEDs

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#386 4 years ago
Quoted from Davi:

Nice job, really nice!

Thanks and thanks for everything!

#388 4 years ago
Quoted from baloo70:

The machine looks fantastic! I can’t wait to play it!

You and me both my friend! That acrylic back board really is awesome thanks for making that a reality !!!! Looks even better in person!!!!

#389 4 years ago

Blacked out around the edge to keep as much light in as possible...
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#391 4 years ago
Quoted from KornFreak28:

Very impressed

Thanks!

#392 4 years ago

Plastic candy ...
It’s really a strange feeling... a ton of the stuff I bought for restoration was purchased almost 9 years ago! The plastics were the first of the million things I got for this machine.... getting them installed feels surreal.

Got myself one of @davi’s air ball plastics set not too long ago. They are awesome!

I also added an extra screw (which is not visible when the ruins are installed). I’m not crazy about that small plastic strip with is weakened structure (because of the mounting U hole situation). The extra screw just holds it secure.

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#394 4 years ago
Quoted from Davi:

My advice is to install mylar below the airball plastic. This area will see heavy traffic, and tons of "attenuated" balls.

Thanks for the heads up!!! I will do that !

#395 4 years ago

Welp... my captive ball wireform failed. I was re-installing the switch and the bracket popped off. I'm now in a holding pattern until I can source one to be plated. For the record I didn't "Hulk" it tight... it must have had a weakness to begin with.

I'm a bit sick to my stomach. This happened on Sunday, thought I found one but it turned out to be an out of stock item.

I'm going to try to find someone to re-weld it... but I'd rather get a replacement and try to fix this later.

C'est la vie

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/w-ij-captive-ball-wireform-#post-5520287

#397 4 years ago
Quoted from Only68s:

Great job, i'm really enjoying this restoration. I just installed the plastic protectors from pinbits last weekend and i found that i was unable to backhand into the mode start when i had the protector under the left slingshot plastic. Once i took the protector off i made it everytime.

Thanks!

That's interesting... I'm trying to wrap my brain around the reason the slingshot protector would cause this?

#399 4 years ago
Quoted from Only68s:

It was just this tiny bit of overhang that would send my ball into the drops every time. I’m going to trim it to fit this weekend. You may not have the same issue I just wanted to point it out when I saw the protectors on. Keep up the good work. I had a lost plastic in the box for over a year now and once I started following your restore I got the motivation to install all my mods and upgrades. Keep up the good work[quoted image]

Ahh I see what you mean!

Thanks for the kind words... It's starting to feel done now. I've got to put new switches and optos on my ramps next. Then it will start being done-done (but will have to wait until i get my captive ball cage problem fixed).

#400 4 years ago
Quoted from Only68s:

It was just this tiny bit of overhang that would send my ball into the drops every time. I’m going to trim it to fit this weekend.
[quoted image]

You know what... it may be that the hole on the protector is a little too big... so it’s sitting down lower on the star post than it should... interfering with the ball

#402 4 years ago
Quoted from Only68s:

That could be the issue, ill check mine out when i get home and ill try a lexan washer under it and see if i get different results.

It really depends upon what kind of post stud you have too. The more I think of it ... unless the protector has a giant hole... that probably isn’t it

#403 4 years ago

I’ve decided to replace of all the IR tx/rx sets that are on the top of the playfield. A good friend recommended this. It is a good suggestion because I wouldn’t be too crazy about having to pull stuff apart to fix these if they turn out to be faulty after all this cleaning and handling.

They are easy to replace. Just take one wire off at a time, trim, re-tin and solder it to the new module. Add the solder to the solder pad before attaching the wire.
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#404 4 years ago

A little bit more plastic ...
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#407 4 years ago
Quoted from Trogdor:

Is that too beautiful to play?

Maybe

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