(Topic ID: 251546)

Indiana Jones Restoration ... "It’s not the years honey... it’s the mileage"


By Ricochet

6 months ago



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  • 543 posts
  • 40 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 8 hours ago by Ricochet
  • Topic is favorited by 54 Pinsiders

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There are 543 posts in this topic. You are on page 10 of 11.
#451 16 days ago
Quoted from Davi:

Don't sell it
Create a wooden backbox, add lights to inserts, install a $4 clock mechanism in the middle, and you have a unique POA clock!

I like what your thinking!

#452 16 days ago
Quoted from Flipper_McGavin:

I have an early sample IJ and the new Mirco playfield. The holes for the POA metal rails line up fine. I wonder if that is only because my rails are flexible to to help contour, vs the red plastic that isnt flexible. So far a lot of the holes line up on the large and small playfield OK, some dimpled holes for screws are off but are easy enough to screw in without predrilling.

No amount of flex can make the red plastic rails that I have work. The drill pattern is entirely different ... and the artwork accommodates the different hole patterns. I suspect that the POA design he is using is an earlier version that was for the metal rails... and not for the full production plastic version.

#453 16 days ago
Quoted from Ricochet:

No amount of flex can make the red plastic rails that I have work. The drill pattern is entirely different ... and the artwork accommodates the different hole patterns. I suspect that the POA design he is using is an earlier version that was for the metal rails... and not for the full production plastic version.

I think you are right... The artwork next to The Pit is very similar to the repro.
https://www.ipdb.org/showpic.pl?id=1267&picno=62207&zoom=1

#454 16 days ago

Nope. Check out the screw placement on the proto vs Mirco repro. The repro doesn’t even have holes there

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#455 16 days ago
Quoted from KornFreak28:

Nope. Check out the screw placement on the proto vs Mirco repro. The repro doesn’t even have holes there[quoted image][quoted image]

I think the proto metal rails are a two piece design. So those screws are like 6-32 x 3/16” and they hold the top half on ... and do not go all the way down to the wood.

#456 16 days ago
Quoted from Ricochet:

I think the proto metal rails are a two piece design. So those screws are like 6-32 x 3/16” and they hold the top half on ... and do not go all the way down to the wood.

Yes. Here is the new Mirco POA playfield with the metal rail and the holes

DSC_2481 (resized).JPG
#457 16 days ago
Quoted from Flipper_McGavin:

Yes. Here is the new Mirco POA playfield with the metal rail and the holes[quoted image]

Yup you are fortunate he happened to make this for the proto ... looks great. If someday someone makes some proto rails I may go this route. However as it stands, for those folks that have the plastic rails (which I believe is the majority)... it is not going to be a direct fit... which is a bummer.

#458 16 days ago
Quoted from Flipper_McGavin:

Yes. Here is the new Mirco POA playfield with the metal rail and the holes[quoted image]

What about the main playfield? Any issues there?

#459 16 days ago
Quoted from KornFreak28:

What about the main playfield? Any issues there?

I would check the screw hole pattern for the apron ball guides. I believe... and I could be wrong... earlier versions used a two piece apron guide vs. the more common three piece. The reason I say this is that I have a two piece guide set I got years ago from a part out of an early model.

This is one data point... I’ve no solid data on this.

#460 16 days ago
Quoted from KornFreak28:

What about the main playfield? Any issues there?

I have only reattached 90% of the underside, nothing on the top yet. But it is all lining up nicely so far.

#461 16 days ago
Quoted from Ricochet:

I would check the screw hole pattern for the apron ball guides. I believe... and I could be wrong... earlier versions used a two piece apron guide vs. the more common three piece. The reason I say this is that I have a two piece guide set I got years ago from a part out of an early model.
This is one data point... I’ve no solid data on this.

I’ll take pics of mine and post them here so you can check on that please.

#462 16 days ago
Quoted from Flipper_McGavin:

I have only put together 90% of the underside, nothing on the top yet. But it is all lining up nicely so far.

Good to hear! All good on the underside too I assume?

#463 16 days ago

I will be running the other version of the poa next week and will be able to deliver both types.

Regards,
Mirco

#464 16 days ago

As far as I know there are some different version out as high volumes were made and they changed the design during production...

#465 15 days ago
Quoted from Highclasspinball:

I will be running the other version of the poa next week and will be able to deliver both types.
Regards,
Mirco

#466 15 days ago

The guys at Pinball plating posted that they are prototyping brass POA prototype rails. Since you are going all out in this, why not go for that?

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/pinballplatingcom-chrome-brass-black-nickel-powder-coating/page/24#post-5503208

#467 15 days ago
Quoted from okgrak:

The guys at Pinball plating posted that they are prototyping brass POA prototype rails. Since you are going all out in this, why not go for that?
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/pinballplatingcom-chrome-brass-black-nickel-powder-coating/page/24#post-5503208

Those are pretty! I’m actually getting to the point where I feel this thing needs to start wrapping up Honestly I kind of prefer the plastic rails anyway... I know that’s probably not the popular opinion.

At this point I’m waiting on...

- replacement wireform for captive ball (pinballplating)
- chrome plating of the subway bracket (pinballplating)
- fabrication if back board mirror reflector (me)

It’s probably going to sit for a bit at this point due to our current state of affairs. All is good.

#468 15 days ago
Quoted from Ricochet:

Those are pretty! I’m actually getting to the point where I feel this thing needs to start wrapping up Honestly I kind of prefer the plastic rails anyway... I know that’s probably not the popular opinion.
At this point I’m waiting on...
- replacement wireform for captive ball (pinballplating)
- chrome plating of the subway bracket (pinballplating)
- fabrication if back board mirror reflector (me)
It’s probably going to sit for a bit at this point due to our current state of affairs. All is good.

You have other options as well! Check out how I painted mine. Went for the temple brick look and I really like it!

Quoted from Ricochet:

Those are pretty! I’m actually getting to the point where I feel this thing needs to start wrapping up Honestly I kind of prefer the plastic rails anyway... I know that’s probably not the popular opinion.
At this point I’m waiting on...
- replacement wireform for captive ball (pinballplating)
- chrome plating of the subway bracket (pinballplating)
- fabrication if back board mirror reflector (me)
It’s probably going to sit for a bit at this point due to our current state of affairs. All is good.

So you got a replacement captive cage?

Did you have the subway plated for a specific reason or just for kicks?

Check out how I painted my POA plastic rail. Went for the temple brick look

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#469 15 days ago
Quoted from KornFreak28:

You have other options as well! Check out how I painted mine. Went for the temple brick look and I really like it!

So you got a replacement captive cage?
Did you have the subway plated for a specific reason or just for kicks?
Check out how I painted my POA plastic rail. Went for the temple brick look [quoted image]

Yeah I go back and forth on repainting those rails. I’m always going back to the stock look.

On the captive ball cage, my switch bracket broke off ... so I need to get another one. Just waiting on pinballplating... Chris has been busy with tornado rebuilding efforts ... so I’m just chilling for now.

I wanted the subway plated because it was rusting a bit and I couldn’t get it right. It is actually a chromed part and I didn’t want to paint it or powder coat it.

#470 15 days ago

Moving along...

I added a couple of washers above and below the screws for the ruins. They are flimsy and I didn’t like the idea of cranking a screw down and pressing it into the standoffs.

The original has a more red tone and aftermarket one is very orange-y
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#471 15 days ago

Cleaned up the Idol with some simple green... it looks great!!!

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#472 13 days ago

Dubbing around with the lighting effects of the back panel while I wait...
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#473 13 days ago
Quoted from Ricochet:

Dubbing around with the lighting effects of the back panel while I wait...
[quoted image][quoted image]

Second picture for sure

#474 13 days ago

I agree second pic.

#475 13 days ago
Quoted from KornFreak28:

Second picture for sure

Yeah ... first one is without GI... so it’s not gonna ever look like that

I actually shouldn’t have posted that pic ...it isn’t even that “hot” in real life. The GI balances out the photo for the camera.

#476 13 days ago
Quoted from Ricochet:

Yeah ... first one is without GI... so it’s not gonna ever look like that
I actually shouldn’t have posted that pic ...it isn’t even that “hot” in real life. The GI balances out the photo for the camera.

What leds are you using?

#477 13 days ago
Quoted from KornFreak28:

What leds are you using?

100% cometpinball Sunlight. Pretty sure they are the best there is... I’ve spent a ton of money on different tones and intensities.

#478 13 days ago
Quoted from Ricochet:

100% cometpinball Sunlight. Pretty sure they are the best there is... I’ve spent a ton of money on different tones and intensities.

Comet is the best out there for sure! I would try warm whites

#479 13 days ago
Quoted from KornFreak28:

Comet is the best out there for sure! I would try warm whites

I did... I really like the sunlight better. The cell phone camera doesn’t do it justice.

#480 13 days ago

Hey, do you happen to know what type and size screws are used for the wooden rails? I forgot already. I need to put some on my repro Mirco playfield to prevent warping...

#481 13 days ago
Quoted from KornFreak28:

Hey, do you happen to know what type and size screws are used for the wooden rails? I forgot already. I need to put some on my repro Mirco playfield to prevent warping...

https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/4106-01042-20

#482 12 days ago

Getting down to the last few bits...

POA is done ... I’m happy to not have to see another switch and diode for some time now!

Ya gotta double check your clearances on this step. You’ll notice I forgot one cable clamp. I checked the action on the playfield and there was some interference with the wires on the plastic below the playfield. It’s really tight under there ... and the plastic protector doesn’t help that.

Anyway ... I had to remove it ... and the clamp and get it just right.

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#483 12 days ago

Added some felt to the edges ...

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#484 12 days ago
Quoted from Ricochet:

Added some felt to the edges ...[quoted image][quoted image]

I highly suggest you remove those. I understand the itch to put them on (Don’t ask me how I know) but those felt strips make it REALLY tight down there. They will be rubbing your side decals like crazy and even though they have felt on them, all that rubbing causes them to slowly but surely peel off in areas where it’s really difficult to remove once the playfield is in the cabinet.

That shit happened to me. Never again will I use felt strips to “protect” the sides of the cabinet. The playfield has very little wiggle room and them strips make it that much worse.

Once I removed mine, it was much better and easier to slide the playfield in and out. Just be careful when lifting the playfield and you should be good to go You’ve been warned

#485 12 days ago
Quoted from KornFreak28:

I highly suggest you remove those. I understand the itch to put them on (Don’t ask me how I know) but those felt strips make it REALLY tight down there. They will be rubbing your side decals like crazy and even though they have felt on them, all that rubbing causes them to slowly but surely peel off in areas where it’s really difficult to remove once the playfield is in the cabinet.
That shit happened to me. Never again will I use felt strips to “protect” the sides of the cabinet. The playfield has very little wiggle room and them strips make it that much worse.
Once I removed mine, it was much better and easier to slide the playfield in and out. Just be careful when lifting the playfield and you should be good to go You’ve been warned

Well shit! You know that has been in the back of my brain since day one! I’ve always thought... I wonder if this is going to be too tight ?

Easy fix. THANK YOU!

#486 12 days ago
Quoted from Ricochet:

Well shit! You know that has been in the back of my brain since day one! I’ve always thought... I wonder if this is going to be too tight ?
Easy fix. THANK YOU!

You know what I call those felt strips? I call them jail bait! Good decision!

#487 12 days ago
Quoted from KornFreak28:

You know what I call those felt strips? I call them jail bait! Good decision!

#488 11 days ago
Quoted from Ricochet:

Well shit! You know that has been in the back of my brain since day one! I’ve always thought... I wonder if this is going to be too tight ?
Easy fix. THANK YOU!

I wonder if its worth putting thin PTFE (teflon) tape on the sides of the payfield? you can get it .005" thick with heavy duty acrylic adhesive which should not impact fit or tightness. That way it will not damage side art?

#489 11 days ago
Quoted from Langless28:

I wonder if its worth putting thin PTFE (teflon) tape on the sides of the payfield? you can get it .005" thick with heavy duty acrylic adhesive which should not impact fit or tightness. That way it will not damage side art?

Yeah maybe... I think the issue is sharp edges... really. I mean if during the restoration process you take the time to slightly round the edges of things ... you are probably going to be ok. If I had rebuilt the cabinet myself I would have added an extra 1/8" to the width of it. William's did build these things tight.

#490 11 days ago

I concur with the felt from my experience.

I did a Funhouse restore. I (luckily) didn't do any art blades. But the felt rubbed on the side of the cabinet. It eventually binded up from lifting pf up and down. Luckily no damage to the freshly painted cab, but it was a nuisance. I finally just pulled it off.

#491 11 days ago

A while ago, I got these because I have mirror blades on my Star Wars... so they may work as well.

https://www.pinballlife.com/interior-cabinet-protector-blade-set.html

#492 11 days ago

Free felt ... gently used

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#493 11 days ago
Quoted from Ricochet:

A while ago, I got these because I have mirror blades on my Star Wars... so they may work as well.
https://www.pinballlife.com/interior-cabinet-protector-blade-set.html

Yeah, those work great. I say you need them if you have blades: art or mirror. Makes lifting the playfield nearly worry free. Going on several years now without scratching my mirror blades.

I, also, will never put felt on my playfield again...

#494 10 days ago

Got the top done ! ... except the planes ... those will be last.

I survived so far without injury (except maybe tendonitis)... no blood. Finally got bit. I’m surprised it took this long, I’m slightly clumsy. I was resurfacing the shaft of the diverter... in the drill... index finger in the wrong place ... it came around and planed off a bit of my knuckle.

Only thing left is the subway ... and my back light panel which is designed and just waiting on the dxf file so I can get it cut.

(Oh and black washers are coming for that apron... I wanted to black out those fasteners, stock is just zinc)
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#495 10 days ago

You will pay the sacrifice, like it or not!

All kidding aside, that gold ball looks most excellent in there.

#496 10 days ago
Quoted from Mr_Frog:

You will pay the sacrifice, like it or not!
All kidding aside, that gold ball looks most excellent in there.

I wasn’t going to do it... but yeah I like the way it looks.

#497 9 days ago

Since you just recently reassembled your playfield, do you remember how you attached the large playfield bracket that is used to slide and pivot in the cabinet, with this screw (red arrow) blocking the bracket from sitting flush on the wood? The screw does not sit flush with the wood, it is raised for me, and i dont remember how it looked before disassembling. I cant get that bracket to sit flush with the wood.
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#498 9 days ago
Quoted from Flipper_McGavin:

Since you just recently reassembled your playfield, do you remember how you attached the large playfield bracket that is used to slide and pivot in the cabinet, with this screw (red arrow) blocking the bracket from sitting flush on the wood? The screw does not sit flush with the wood, it is raised for me, and i dont remember how it looked before disassembling. I cant get that bracket to sit flush with the wood.
[quoted image]

There should not be a screw there. Only an 8-32 t-nut. The standoff that mounts on the top side screws into the t-nut and does not protrude.
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#499 9 days ago

Got my back board mirror design done...
Now to get it cut !!

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#500 9 days ago

That is helpful. I dont remember seeing a threaded anchor on my standoff to screw into the t-nut, it may have broken off and was jury rigged at some point in the past. Have to double check when i get home, but now it makes sense

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