(Topic ID: 334897)

Indiana Jones Pinball Adventure - coin door menu buttons?

By EricInAlaska

1 year ago


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#1 1 year ago

Honestly, I'm not tech savvy so kindly make your explanations relatively simple when possible.

I have a relatively new Indy PBA and have been doing some upgrades - things I can handle. Y'all helped me with removal and installation of side rails and I just got that done after powercoating them black. They look awesome!

My problem is that the coin door buttons do not do anything (menu, etc.). The game plays fine, and I installed a Pinwoofer so I can change the volume. But I still need to be able to get into the menu, obviously. [NOTE: The only other odd thing is that sometimes is adds 4 players if I just try to start a 2-player game.]

The only thing I did that might impact this situation is that I installed a ColorDMD as soon as I got it. I don't think I ever tried the coin door buttons prior to that, so it may be unrelated. But that's the only major ("major" being a relative term for a newbie like myself) electronics manipulation I've done to it.

I tried to look through the manual so I understand there's a board just inside the coin door mounted on the left. But that's about as deep as my understanding goes.

If anyone has any suggestions about fuses or anything to troubleshoot, please shout them out. I've looked at the wires and to the naked eye I did not see anything obviously wrong.

Thank you, friends!

Eric

#2 1 year ago
Quoted from EricInAlaska:

If anyone has any suggestions

Check CPU for battery damage, it gets the diagnostic buttons first.

Then unplug power to the ColorDMD and play a game blind, or try them then. If they work with power to the ColorDMD power disconnected, it is draining too much on your 12 volts.

LTG : )

#3 1 year ago
Quoted from LTG:

Check CPU for battery damage, it gets the diagnostic buttons first.
Then unplug power to the ColorDMD and play a game blind, or try them then. If they work with power to the ColorDMD power disconnected, it is draining too much on your 12 volts.
LTG : )

Thank you! I will do that after work tonight.

This is the CPU board?

CPU (resized).pngCPU (resized).png
#4 1 year ago
Quoted from EricInAlaska:

This is the CPU board?

Yes. If your game has the original boards in it, it will have three batteries on it. Look below them for any damage.

LTG : )

#5 1 year ago

Red arrow points to it.

LTG : )

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#6 1 year ago

I inspected the batteries and boards underneath. There was a small amount of corrosion on the far left battery on the bottom.

Mostly the boards and connectors looked great. I did replaced the 3 AAA batteries while I was there. The "cabinet switches" and connectors look fine (see picture - I have connectors at J205, 207, 208 and 212).

BUT ... there was some corrosion on one Microchip (BA10339 // 320 // 170) just below the far left AAA battery (the one with some corrosion on its bottom). It's the Microchip seen in this photo next to the designation "U16" (whatever that is).

I gently cleaned that corrosion build-up off with Q-tip and baking soda/water. It looked better, so fired up the game again to see if that made any difference. Alas, it did not.

I unplugged my ColorDMD (power and display connections) and started the machine. I did not start a game, but I tried to determine whether the coin door buttons worked. That wasn't really feasible since I had no display. But I pushed the buttons to see if anything at reacted - nothing did.

I plugged my DMD power and display back in. Evidently, replacing the AAA batteries made me lose the game-specific Chroma.rom file on the DMD. So I downloaded that again and installed it anew. Now it is working again.

THe DMD worked after that, but still the coin door buttons do nothing.

Notably, when I open the coin door it is as thought it is still closed. When the door is open, I pushed on the cabinet interlock switches (the white buttons -- of which there are two unlike my Stern which only have one) and nothing happens. So that seems like a symptom of whatever is wrong. They also do not pull out (again, like my Stern high power interlock switches do). But I push and push and it's as though I'm not doing anything.

THanks again for your kind assistance!

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#7 1 year ago
Quoted from EricInAlaska:

there was some corrosion

And more you can't see.

Get that board repaired by a pro, like ChrisHibler , if it isn't too far gone.

That crap creeps under the green mask.

LTG : )

#8 1 year ago
Quoted from EricInAlaska:

I inspected the batteries and boards underneath. There was a small amount of corrosion on the far left battery on the bottom.
Mostly the boards and connectors looked great. I did replaced the 3 AAA batteries while I was there. The "cabinet switches" and connectors look fine (see picture - I have connectors at J205, 207, 208 and 212).
BUT ... there was some corrosion on one Microchip (BA10339 // 320 // 170) just below the far left AAA battery (the one with some corrosion on its bottom). It's the Microchip seen in this photo next to the designation "U16" (whatever that is).
I gently cleaned that corrosion build-up off with Q-tip and baking soda/water. It looked better, so fired up the game again to see if that made any difference. Alas, it did not.
I unplugged my ColorDMD (power and display connections) and started the machine. I did not start a game, but I tried to determine whether the coin door buttons worked. That wasn't really feasible since I had no display. But I pushed the buttons to see if anything at reacted - nothing did.
I plugged my DMD power and display back in. Evidently, replacing the AAA batteries made me lose the game-specific Chroma.rom file on the DMD. So I downloaded that again and installed it anew. Now it is working again.
THe DMD worked after that, but still the coin door buttons do nothing.
Notably, when I open the coin door it is as thought it is still closed. When the door is open, I pushed on the cabinet interlock switches (the white buttons -- of which there are two unlike my Stern which only have one) and nothing happens. So that seems like a symptom of whatever is wrong. They also do not pull out (again, like my Stern high power interlock switches do). But I push and push and it's as though I'm not doing anything.
THanks again for your kind assistance!
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

That chip's in bad shape. I would look at getting another and maybe a 14 pin socket to go along with it. Desolder the old and verify the traces are in tact (check continuity if need be) and install he replacement ,chip and/or socket. You should be able to source that from Mouser.

If this is out of your wheelhouse send it out to Raymond Jett down in Texas.

#9 1 year ago

I can replace the whole board for about $200.

For example, the RocketCPU. I have to move over my several chips (but not the shitty one on this board).

LINK: https://www.pinsound.org/shop/en/76-6266-rocketcpu.html#/44-pinball_machine-indiana_jones_the_pinball_adventure_wpc_/174-ready_to_play-no_i_ll_transfer_my_existing_chips_over_to_the_rocketcpu

The Rocket does not have a battery pack so that's nice.

#10 1 year ago

Or ... for $300 the RocketCPU will come with Microprocessor, ASIC, EPROM and NVRAM installed.

If that could solve my problem, it's worth $300.

What do you guys think?

#11 1 year ago
Quoted from WalrusPin:

That chip's in bad shape. I would look at getting another and maybe a 14 pin socket to go along with it. Desolder the old and verify the traces are in tact (check continuity if need be) and install he replacement ,chip and/or socket. You should be able to source that from Mouser.
If this is out of your wheelhouse send it out to Raymond Jett down in Texas.

All of that is WAY outside my wheelhouse. I can do some rudimentary soldering. I just watched a video and I couldn't even safely pull the microprocessor out, let alone do all the other stuff you just said.

#12 1 year ago
Quoted from EricInAlaska:

All of that is WAY outside my wheelhouse. I can do some rudimentary soldering. I just watched a video and I couldn't even safely pull the microprocessor out, let alone do all the other stuff you just said.

Yeah, if you haven't done that kind of work buy the $300 board and be done with it. There's way too much margin for error to try and learn on something like this.

#13 1 year ago

Buy a new board, then sell the old board here on pinside with an exact description of whats going on to include a brief video of your game as it plays now. You should be able to get $100 plus to offset part of the price of the new board as some people are purists.

#14 1 year ago

Ok - new RocketCPU "ready to install" ordered. Will post here when I install it. Fingers crossed!

Thank you all for your help. I sure appreciate your time.

#15 1 year ago
Quoted from EricInAlaska:

when I install it. Fingers crossed!

Get connectors in same spots. Ribbon cables are gray and have a red stripe on one side, that goes to pin one on each end of the cable. Boards are marked. And don't get them off a row left or right.

Pictures, notes, or label them. You'll be fine.

LTG : )

#16 1 year ago
Quoted from LTG:

Get connectors in same spots. Ribbon cables are gray and have a red stripe on one side, that goes to pin one on each end of the cable. Boards are marked. And don't get them off a row left or right.
Pictures, notes, or label them. You'll be fine.
LTG : )

By this, do you mean be very careful to put them on the new board in the exact spots where they go with the correct orientation (thanks for the red-stripe tip)?

Or, are you recommending I replace my cables/ribbons/connectors?

I didn't see any corrosion near anything except that one microchip, so I'm hopeful the connectors are all still fine. I could give them a gentle brushing when I pull them and before I reconnect to the new board.

Thanks!

#17 1 year ago
Quoted from EricInAlaska:

By this, do you mean be very careful to put them on the new board in the exact spots where they go with the correct orientation

Yes, this. Your problems were board issues not cables or connectors.

Quoted from EricInAlaska:

Or, are you recommending I replace my cables/ribbons/connectors?

I wouldn't. Unless they are old, aged, cracking.

LTG : )

#18 1 year ago

I had my powerboard rebuilt and upon installing it I noticed that my coin door buttons went inop. If you held the far right button, the other button would do what the far right button would do.

The man who did my boardwork told me that the bottom connectors on that board control the coin door, and I probably had it plugged into the board wrong. He was right, I was off by ONE pin and it made the coin door switches all wonky.

Look at the J206 - J207 etc. Why is nothing plugged into J206? That could be the problem all along is that something is supposed to be there. I'd look at another machines board and see if that is supposed to be empty and check all those connections.

#19 1 year ago
Quoted from Sandman33:

I had my powerboard rebuilt and upon installing it I noticed that my coin door buttons went inop. If you held the far right button, the other button would do what the far right button would do.
The man who did my boardwork told me that the bottom connectors on that board control the coin door, and I probably had it plugged into the board wrong. He was right, I was off by ONE pin and it made the coin door switches all wonky.
Look at the J206 - J207 etc. Why is nothing plugged into J206? That could be the problem all along is that something is supposed to be there. I'd look at another machines board and see if that is supposed to be empty and check all those connections.

I have no idea why J206 is empty. I'm hopeful it's supposed to be. I looked for any stray unplugged connectors and did not see any.

I tried to look up J206 in my manual but was unable to find any specific reference to it.

Does anyone have a photo of what a properly working Indy looks like in that J205 --> J212 spot?

Could it be that J207 should be plugged into J206? I really hate to start randomly plugging stuff into new slots (even if the number of pins and blank pin spots are correct). I worry I'm going to blow some shit up!

#20 1 year ago

I just looked at a video of a guy showing how to install an Indy ColorDMD - it's not a perfect view but his J206 also looks empty.

#21 1 year ago

Look at this picture of a for sale ad ...

It looks like his J208 is plugged in directly below (so his J208 is empty). The wire colors look the same as mine that's plugged into J208.

The spot below is labeled "switch rows". I wonder if that could be my problem. Mine is empty.

Indy boards (resized).jpgIndy boards (resized).jpg

#22 1 year ago
Quoted from EricInAlaska:

Could it be that J207 should be plugged into J206?

Doesn't matter. Those two connectors on the board do the same thing. Look at the traces. Either one can be used if your game uses only one.

And J206 and J207 are column switches on your switch matrix. Your diagnostic switches are dedicated switches. Different connector. Look at the switch matrix in your manual, the far right hand column is dedicated switches and top of the column has which connector information.

LTG : )

#23 1 year ago
Quoted from EricInAlaska:

The wire colors look the same as mine that's plugged into J208.

J208 and the connector below it are the same thing, ROWS. Doesn't matter which one is used if your game only uses one of them.

LTG : )

#24 1 year ago

J905 and J906 are your dedicated connectors for your coin door switches.

LTG : )

#25 1 year ago
Quoted from LTG:

J208 and the connector below it are the same thing, ROWS. Doesn't matter which one is used if your game only uses one of them.
LTG : )

Thank you!

I can't really understand the switch matrix in the manual. It's all Greek to me

#26 1 year ago
Quoted from LTG:

J905 and J906 are your dedicated connectors for your coin door switches.
LTG : )

Are J905 and 906 on the circuit board to the left wall inside the coin door?

#27 1 year ago
Quoted from EricInAlaska:

I have no idea why J206 is empty. I'm hopeful it's supposed to be. I looked for any stray unplugged connectors and did not see any.
I tried to look up J206 in my manual but was unable to find any specific reference to it.
Does anyone have a photo of what a properly working Indy looks like in that J205 --> J212 spot?
Could it be that J207 should be plugged into J206? I really hate to start randomly plugging stuff into new slots (even if the number of pins and blank pin spots are correct). I worry I'm going to blow some shit up!

I'm not telling you to plug things into different locations. Check that the plugs you have plugged in are all on correctly. So unplug them and plug them back into the same location and make sure they aren't off to the left or right by a millimeter.

#28 1 year ago
Quoted from LTG:

J905 and J906 are your dedicated connectors for your coin door switches.
LTG : )

Perfect. OP go check the connections on the board make sure they are hooked up correctly, its very very easy to plug them in wrong/offset. If they are all good you may have a board issue.

2 weeks later
#29 12 months ago

UPDATE: I installed my RocketCPU ... drum roll ... you guys were totally right. The menu door buttons now work fine! What a relief.

So I will take your advice and sell the OEM CPU to anyone who wants a small challenge. Hopefully it's just that one chip that was affected, and a clever fellow could replace it with a fresh one.

Thanks to all - especially LTG for his guidance!

2 weeks later
#30 11 months ago

EricInAlaska

Have not tested it in a pin yet but I believe the MPU is all fixed up. Alkaline had eaten up the trace from pin 3 on U16. Previous work on a U20 swap the tech lifted the trace and eyelet on pin 16. Socketed those chips and installed NVRAM while I had the board on the table.

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#31 11 months ago
Quoted from The_Pump_House:

EricInAlaska
Have not tested it in a pin yet but I believe the MPU is all fixed up. Alkaline had eaten up the trace from pin 3 on U16. Previous work on a U20 swap the tech lifted the trace and eyelet on pin 16. Socketed those chips and installed NVRAM while I had the board on the table.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Thanks for sharing - I'm frankly surprised that MPU did not give me more fits than just the Menu buttons.

Keep us posted!

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