Indy 500 Resetting Mid-Game

(Topic ID: 223828)

Indy 500 Resetting Mid-Game


By Gryszzz

3 months ago



Topic Stats

  • 38 posts
  • 9 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 3 months ago by Spinape
  • Topic is favorited by 1 Pinsider

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    #1 3 months ago

    Goes lights out mid-game, then resets. I was hoping it might be new batteries needed; just put new Quantums in there so that's not it. Any help appreciated, thanks.

    #2 3 months ago

    Just started the "fluttering" in and out. Indicative of an electrical issue?

    #3 3 months ago

    I'd like to help, but my family history with the Indy 500 isn't so great.

    But a reset issue sometimes has something to do with the 5 volt feed to the MPU.

    #4 3 months ago

    You are dealing with the classic b/w reset issue. Most of the time occurs during just double hitting the flippers, but if particularly nasty, will happen during game at completely random times

    I went through nearly the entirety of the pinwiki section on reset issues to scrub my TAF of it. It did it completely randomly... even during attract mode.

    What seemed to finally get it was when I replaced all my ribbon cables and swapped out a bad RD mpu board. Do you ever get any boot up errors on an extremely sporadic basis? I was getting a bad U26 error on startup once every 75 to 100 games, and that was how I knew the mpu board was faulty.

    I replaced the ribbon cables strictly for good measure.

    #5 3 months ago

    OD...so you got hauled outta the track in cuffs a couple times too eh? Surprisingly easy to do. Thanks for the 5v tip. Gives me somewhere to start.
    NPO...thanks for yer response. It just started happening. No trouble booting, no strange error. Last game I played 10 min ago I can see it getting dimmer and dimmer. Like a death rattle.

    #6 3 months ago

    I replaced the opto targets on this a couple years ago, and it has run like a tank for 5 years. I was kinda expecting something to happen soon. Maybe it's time to start the restore on this one. Got new decals, new plastics, rubbers, etc. I just like playin em, tinkering on em not so much. Maybe it's time to step up and learn some things.

    #7 3 months ago
    Quoted from Gryszzz:

    I replaced the opto targets on this a couple years ago, and it has run like a tank for 5 years. I was kinda expecting something to happen soon. Maybe it's time to start the restore on this one. Got new decals, new plastics, rubbers, etc. I just like playin em, tinkering on em not so much. Maybe it's time to step up and learn some things.

    Bridge rectifier(s). Common on B/W. Easy to replace if you can solder.

    #8 3 months ago
    Quoted from Gryszzz:

    OD...so you got hauled outta the track in cuffs a couple times too eh?

    Not exactly, but I brought it up in an thread earlier today, which is something I rarely do, that one of my ancestors was an Indy racing legend.

    Good luck! You should be racing again in no time.

    http://www.the-fastlane.co.uk/cpdb/crashphotos_view.php?editid1=48

    #9 3 months ago
    Quoted from vireland:

    Bridge rectifier(s). Common on B/W. Easy to replace if you can solder.

    Nicely done. Hakko desoldering gun is your best friend here.

    #10 3 months ago

    Damn OD that's crazy! Thanks for sharing that.
    Vireland thank you! I own a soldering gun, and that's all I'm gonna say.
    Gotta find my manual, but I'm guessin the bridge rectifier needs unsoldered and a new one soldered on? I don't have a desoldering gun. Board work is not in my wheelhouse. Maybe I need to look into one though.

    #11 3 months ago
    Quoted from Gryszzz:

    Damn OD that's crazy! Thanks for sharing that.
    Vireland thank you! I OWN a soldering gun, and that's all I'm gonna say.
    Gotta find my manual, but I'm guessin the bridge rectifier needs unsoldered and a new one soldered on? I don't have a desoldering gun. Board work is not in my wheelhouse. Maybe I need to look into one though.

    Here's a video that shows the 2 bridge rectifiers that are the most common culprits:

    He's not joking, either, be CAREFUL when you remove the BRs. Some of the traces go through the hole to connect the top and bottom sides. Once you take off the heat sink, I recommend just cutting the BR legs to remove the BR top and then you can get the pins that are left out with much less hassle. If the solder is being stubborn, DO NOT over-heat it, add some new solder or some flux to get it to melt. Getting the pads too hot can lift them, and that's a whole 'nother problem.

    #12 3 months ago

    Lol...I truly appreciate yer help Vireland, but when I got to the first "You have to be REALLY careful desoldering this or you could mess up a trace",...I'm out. I can't go for that. No can do. Will get somebody local and experienced to help. Thank you though.

    #13 3 months ago
    Quoted from Gryszzz:

    Lol...I truly appreciate yer help Vireland, but when I got to the first "You have to be REALLY careful desoldering this or you could mess up a trace",...I'm out. I can't go for that. No can do. Will get somebody local and experienced to help. Thank you though.

    Knowing your limits is a good thing.

    If you send it out, I'd recommend here:
    http://www.coinopcauldron.com/

    #14 3 months ago

    I'll prob just see if I can buy John Wart lunch, he's fairly close, or carry it to Rob Anthony at Expo.

    #15 3 months ago

    Hey did you think the last code update improved the audio on Maiden? I haven't updated yet due to the "sling gate" bullshit. Was gonna sit out till 1.6.

    #16 3 months ago
    Quoted from Gryszzz:

    Hey did you think the last code update improved the audio on Maiden? I haven't updated yet due to the "sling gate" bullshit. Was gonna sit out till 1.6.

    The location we have Iron Maiden pro at is pretty low volume, so it sounds fine. Honestly, 1.04 is worth the upgrade. Just back the sling power off a bit in the settings until 1.05 fixes whatever they broke with the coil sling programming.

    #17 3 months ago
    Quoted from Gryszzz:

    I'll prob just see if I can do lunch with John Wart

    I knew you'd come to your senses. And don't let this little mishap ruin your pinball experience.

    #18 3 months ago

    Come flame or fury, the race is on!
    Dude that vid is killer. Never saw that one, danke.

    #19 3 months ago

    Gryzzzzzzzzzzz

    While the board is out, replace all the capacitors too. Those have a life span of 10 years, your board is nearly 25 years old ...

    Rob Anthony will sort you out, for sure ...

    rd

    #20 3 months ago

    RD thank you brother. Glad y'all made it outta the US without gettin shot.

    #22 3 months ago

    Got me and TurboBobby reminiscing.

    #23 3 months ago

    #24 3 months ago
    Quoted from o-din:

    one of my ancestors was an Indy racing legend.

    In your link it listed that their car was a Duesenberg Roamer.

    Williams came out with a Doozie in 1968, and it had zipper flippers.
    https://www.ipdb.org/showpic.pl?id=704&picno=14504

    Duesy is short for Duesenberg.
    Many attribute the phrase: It's a Duesy, or It's a Doozie
    to mean something positive that is excellent and/or powerful like a Duesenberg automobile.

    #25 3 months ago

    It must have been a real doozie.

    2 weeks later
    #26 3 months ago

    I had the exact same problem with my Indy 500. Bought power fix daughter board. Haven't had a single issue since. http://www.kahr.us

    #27 3 months ago

    Thanks for the tip. I'm not seeing prices anywhere. How much was this if you don't mind me asking?

    #28 3 months ago

    I don't think it's expensive my brother needed it for his TZ. Fixed it right away. When I saw this I was wondering about your fixing it.

    #29 3 months ago
    Quoted from Gryszzz:

    Thanks for the tip. I'm not seeing prices anywhere. How much was this if you don't mind me asking?

    Just send the board out and have it fixed right. It'll likely be gone less than 2 weeks. Why use a band-aid board add-on to bypass a problem?

    #30 3 months ago
    Quoted from Spinape:

    I had the exact same problem with my Indy 500. Bought power fix daughter board. Haven't had a single issue since. http://www.kahr.us

    Kahr boards have saved my butt many times.

    #31 3 months ago

    $39 USD. I say it was completely worth it

    #32 3 months ago

    $39 ? ? ? ?
    Sorry Rob, gotta do what I gotta do. Will bring original in for bridge rectifier replacement anyway just cause you're the best.

    #33 3 months ago

    Just wanna get her runnin for Expo. Think I should leave it incandescent lol

    #34 3 months ago

    For 5 years, she was so nice. She was lovey dovey.
    Ha.
    5 years and I can't bring myself to switch to led's. I love the incandescents on it, but not for 4 days straight hello Smokey the bear.

    #35 3 months ago

    Yeah. Super easy fix. Took me like 1 minute. Oh.. Time to switch to LED!

    #36 3 months ago
    Quoted from Gryszzz:

    For 5 years, she was so nice. She was lovey dovey.
    Ha.
    5 years and I can't bring myself to switch to led's. I love the incandescents on it, but not for 4 days straight hello Smokey the bear.

    LEDs are great if you add an LED OCD. Gives you great brightness (at any level you choose) with incandescent attack and decay.

    I'd spend your "down the toilet" add on band-aid money towards THAT and get the power board repaired right.

    #37 3 months ago
    Quoted from vireland:

    Just send the board out and have it fixed right. It'll likely be gone less than 2 weeks. Why use a band-aid board add-on to bypass a problem?

    Quoted from Gryszzz:

    $39 ? ? ? ?
    Sorry Rob, gotta do what I gotta do. Will bring original in for bridge rectifier replacement anyway just cause you're the best.

    Good for you holding to your guns on this one, Grys.

    I have said this many times before, and I'll echo it every time I see it - that board is a band-aid. It is a SOLID band-aid for most people's reset issues, and it'll help get your game around the issue for a long time if your reset issue isn't too bad. I speak from personal experience: it is not the "end all be all, never have a problem again" fix. My TAF was resetting badly, and I installed one, and it STILL reset. I wanted to install the magic bullet and see it all better, but in my world, that didn't happen.

    When rKahr and I discussed the possibilities, he informed me that would be due to the 12V line on the power driver board being weak too. So, if you install one, and your 12V is already weak, and that's where the Kahr board draws from, guess what's going to happen.........?

    I'm sure for operators who want to just get their game back on their feet and have machines all over town to keep running, this is a nice option - and that's awesome. I am just letting you know - from hands-on experience - your reset issue is bad enough - even that magic bullet is not going to stop it. Then you'll end up doing what you should have done the first time: address it by fixing the original problem.

    It's a great product, and awesome for what it does. Use it to get through a get-together, party, pinball leauge tournament day - but DO NOT depend on it for the long haul. Sooner or later, the electrical gremlin will return.

    #38 3 months ago
    Quoted from NPO:

    Good for you holding to your guns on this one, Grys.
    I have said this many times before, and I'll echo it every time I see it - that board is a band-aid. It is a SOLID band-aid for most people's reset issues, and it'll help get your game around the issue for a long time if your reset issue isn't too bad. I speak from personal experience: it is not the "end all be all, never have a problem again" fix. My TAF was resetting badly, and I installed one, and it STILL reset. I wanted to install the magic bullet and see it all better, but in my world, that didn't happen.
    When rKahr and I discussed the possibilities, he informed me that would be due to the 12V line on the power driver board being weak too. So, if you install one, and your 12V is already weak, and that's where the Kahr board draws from, guess what's going to happen.........?
    I'm sure for operators who want to just get their game back on their feet and have machines all over town to keep running, this is a nice option - and that's awesome. I am just letting you know - from hands-on experience - your reset issue is bad enough - even that magic bullet is not going to stop it. Then you'll end up doing what you should have done the first time: address it by fixing the original problem.
    It's a great product, and awesome for what it does. Use it to get through a get-together, party, pinball leauge tournament day - but DO NOT depend on it for the long haul. Sooner or later, the electrical gremlin will return.

    This is true. It is a band aid. I was told that by others before buying it. But im riding it out until it stops working

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