(Topic ID: 234220)

Indy 500 ground short help!


By plovis

1 year ago



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  • 14 posts
  • 6 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 3 months ago by Schwaggs
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#1 1 year ago

Hello Pinside. I'm new to the hobby but have been loving it and this site has been a huge help many times.

Unfortunately I have a new issue that has me very frustrated. On my Indy5 machine, I was resoldering the connections on some dim GI lights that had been annoying me for awhile (right slingshot). The lights brightened up but when I went for a test play a bunch of things went haywire, multiple switches closing at once. Great. What did I do.

I start troubleshooting and the problem seems concentrated to column 2, my guess was that I got careless with the soldering iron and fried something. Unfortunately I traced the column 2 (green red) wire all over the playfield and couldnt find anything obvious. I also started getting a message about a ground short on row 4, but digging around on that wire (white yellow) also hasn't turned up anything obvious. I'm now getting a number of ground short messages based upon whether various things are connected, and I'm begging for help.

After most of a day spent troubleshooting here is where I am:

With the coin door open:
I get a general message for a ground short on row 4. For the switches on row 4, upper eject get no response. The rest of the switches on row 4 read correctly but stutter over their row 2 counterparts before settling. Examination of the upper eject switch does not reveal anything obvious. It shows connectivity to all other switches in the row. All other playfield switches read normally.

Column 2:
buy in - reads as always closed (switch 24)
coin door - reads as always closed (switch 24)
slam tilt - reads as always closed (switch 24)
shooter lane - reads as always closed (switch 24)
left slingshot - stutters over always closed (switch 24) and then reads as left ramp standup (column 4)
right slingshot - stutters over always closed (switch 24) and then reads as turbo wrench (column 4)
three bank upper - stutters over always closed (switch 24) and then reads as jet bumper wrench (column 4)

With the coin door closed:
buy in - reads as upper eject (row 4)
slam tilt - no response
shooter lane - reads as upper eject (row 4)
left slingshot - switch 24 stutter is gone, but reads as left ramp standup (column 4)
right slingshot - switch 24 stutter is gone, but reads as turbo wrench (column 4)
three bank upper - switch 24 stutter is gone, but reads as jet bumper wrench (column 4)

When I unplug J212 from the security board:

All row 4 switches work fine, including upper eject

For column 2, buy in, coin door, and slam tilt are disconnected
shooter lane - reads ground short row 5
left slingshot - reads ground short row 6
right slingshot - reads ground short row 7
three bank upper - reads ground short row 8

I feel like the pieces are here to figure out where the problem is, but I'm kind of wiped out and also not smart enough to do it.
I'm hoping the pros can help. Any advice would be greatly appreciated!

#2 1 year ago

I would make sure I am actually dealing with a playfield problem, by testing the MPU board switch closures directly with the procedures in the test docs. See "testing switch columns all revisions":

http://techniek.flipperwinkel.nl/wpc/index2.htm#switch

#3 1 year ago

Thanks wayout.
I'll give it a look.

#5 1 year ago

Thanks Chris.
I didn't have a test jumper handy, still new as I mentioned. Plus I just assumed I had done something to the wiring since the problem occurred right after I had messed with it.
Going to grab some gear today and get back to it. I appreciate the help.

#6 1 year ago
Quoted from plovis:

I was resoldering the connections on some dim GI lights that had been annoying me for awhile (right slingshot). The lights brightened up but when I went for a test play a bunch of things went haywire, multiple switches closing at once. Great. What did I do.

Did you solder while the game was on? Or did you touch the GI lamp socket or wiring against anything (especially to a switch) while the game was on?

#7 1 year ago

Maniac,
Nope. Powered down, touched up the sockets, powered back on to check the lamps and they looked good. Thought everything was fine until I started a game. As far as touching the lamp to anything I don't think so? I try to be careful but obviously something went wrong.

#8 1 year ago

Well, definitely looks like a board problem. Pin 2 on 207 reads ground short and pins 7, 8, and 9 get no response at all. Board work is way above my pay grade so it looks like I'm gonna have to pull the board and take it in somewhere.

#9 1 year ago

Problem solved. I took the mpu into a local shop and they were able to trace the problem to a bad ULN2803 chip at U20. Guess this is a pretty common issue from what I'm seeing on the threads here but it was a new one for me. Indy5 is back up and running great. Thanks to everyone here for their responses.

#10 1 year ago

Glad the game is up and running. Did you get NVRAM installed as well?

#11 1 year ago

Sure did!
Goodbye batteries.

#12 1 year ago

Sweet. Enjoy your game.

1 year later
#13 3 months ago

Hi All,

As mentioned within this tread I am new to the hobby with very little electronic experience, with this I have a similar issue with play field lighting in the lower field and 1/4 of the back glass lighting. Thinking relates to a short due to the "J15-see photo" is extremely hot and wires do not look very healthy.

Reviewing the manual, it seams that they are coming from the T former to supply the power board and thinking the draw is very high due to a short. Wire colors are 2 brown and 1 green.

Would anyone have some guidance for trouble shooting?

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#14 3 months ago

J115 is the input to the driver board for the general illumination. Power comes from the transformer. The Triacs with large blue/purple heat sinks just to the right and above of J115 control the GI power exiting the driver board on J120, J121 and J119. These connectors are burned on may games as well. It looks like J120 has been repaired/replaced on your game.

They could be getting hot due to a short but that would likely result in a blown fuse. The more likely cause is weak connection between the connector and the pin on the board or the wire and the crimp connection causing high resistance which causes heat.

You need to replace the connector and header pins on the driver board for J115. You might need to add a little extra wire to the burned wires on pins 10, 11 and 12.

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