Quoted from RTS:I'm still studying how best to eliminate the issue.
I had a working solution that would allow the 2nd ball to escape out after a few tries when the vuk would fire. But the gate was only 95% effective because the gate clearance was barely smaller than the ball. Good, but not perfect. The number of super jackpots still went way up.
So I lowered the gate to be100% effective, but it prevented the 2nd ball to escape if two got stuck. It's a rare occurrence, but it requires lifting the glass so it's unacceptable for me.
With drilled holes, I'd want to be 100% sure two balls can't get stuck.
The problem is that the VUK doesn't fire to immediately clear out the ball.
WH2O somehow avoids this issue.
Quoted from RTS:I'm still studying how best to eliminate the issue.
I had a working solution that would allow the 2nd ball to escape out after a few tries when the vuk would fire. But the gate was only 95% effective because the gate clearance was barely smaller than the ball. Good, but not perfect. The number of super jackpots still went way up.
So I lowered the gate to be100% effective, but it prevented the 2nd ball to escape if two got stuck. It's a rare occurrence, but it requires lifting the glass so it's unacceptable for me.
With drilled holes, I'd want to be 100% sure two balls can't get stuck.
The problem is that the VUK doesn't fire to immediately clear out the ball. WH2O somehow avoids this issue.
This is a great idea, and wanted to share another solution using small strips of foam insulation to decrease the bounce outs. I also highly recommend the following steps provided by Cliffy Turbo VUK backstop mod:
"The Turbo hole with vertical upkicker (VUK) assembly is a bit of a poor design. It works but due to the cramped space in the hole, and it's close proximity to the upper flipper, it takes quite a beating and often rewards even the best shot with a maddening bounce out.
I have come across a solution that seems to work very well, although your mileage may vary To do this fix you need to be reasonably good with hand tools and it would help greatly if you own a bench vise. What we want to do is raise the bend in the backstop about 1/4 inch. This will effectively guide the ball into the hole much better. Over time the backstop gets hammered nearly vertical so we want to get it re-bent back down where it belongs too. First you need to remove the vuk assembly by unplugging the wires going to it from underneath and removing the 4 screws holding it to the playfield.
Now that the vuk is out you need to remove the blue rubber pad. Use a jewelers screwdriver to work the retaining button through the hole. Next, use a straight edge or combo square and sharpie to mark a line 1/4 inch above the existing bend in the backstop. Use your vice to slowly straighten the existing bend, clamp in vice along the newly marked bend line and hammer the top part so that it looks like it did when it was bent. a 45 degree bend is about right. Now you'll have to cut a section straight across the bottom of the blue pad. This is because of the higher bend line we just made. Take off a slice just enough for the rubber to sit at that bend line. Install into the backstop hole. You may wish to drop the smallest drop of super glue or contact cement behind the pad to keep it from spinning. Reinstall into game, hook up the connectors and enjoy fewer bounce outs!"
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