(Topic ID: 54428)

Indianapolis 500 owners thread. Everyone welcome.


By stevevt

6 years ago



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  • 970 posts
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  • Latest reply 10 days ago by BioBa
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#16 6 years ago
Quoted from Brad76:

I'm looking for one within a few hours of Chicago if anyone has one or sees one for sale other than the one in Indy for 3700. Little to rich for my bloo

I thought that one for $3,700 was very fairly priced. If I recall, it was in fabulous condition. Is it still available? The game has definitely been trending higher, particularly nice examples. Within the last couple months I had two people offer me more than $4K for mine.

#18 6 years ago
Quoted from jayhawkai:

Yours is the chromed out one from Gambit, who got it from Atlanta, correct? Looked very nice from the pics.

Yep. Good memory. It was really nice when I got it, but I've since rebuilt all three light up targets with new LED boards, installed a brand new DMD, new coin door, plastic protectors, colored Cliffy posts, and new white rubber.

#32 6 years ago

Wow! Bowen makes that Super Jackpot look easy. I've only accomplished it a couple times since I've owned the game. Of course, I think that lock shot is a lot easier to hit without a Cliffy.

#35 6 years ago
Quoted from mwong168:

You get a lot of bounce out too ...

Yes. A lot of shots that seem dead on just bounce out. I have better luck making the shot after shooting the ball around the orbit rather than up the ramp. For some reason, the greater speed of the orbit shot appears to help. I seem to recall Cliffy mentioning something about how he modded his game to help prevent bounce outs. I'll see if I can find it.

#37 6 years ago

Thanks! I knew I read that somewhere. Seems like kind of a pain in the ass. i guess that's why i never did it ...

#70 6 years ago
Quoted from Da_Topper:

Ok, here's another clue. There's a special call out in Whitewater that you can get every 5 games. That call out is very similar to the one in Indy but the word at the end of the phrase is different and it begins with the letter W. The last word in the phrase for Whitewater also begins with a W.

I used to have both games sitting right next to each other, and I have no idea what you're talking about.

#73 6 years ago

IIRC, Big Foot will let out a crazy scream every once in a while at the beginning of a game, but it's way less often than once every five games.

#78 6 years ago
Quoted from Da_Topper:

Indy 500 will say "get the extra ball ya wanker!" Anybody else hear that phrase?

That's funny! I honestly don't recall hearing it before. It's interesting that they chose to use a British colloquialism like "wanker" on such an intrinsically American game.

#82 6 years ago
Quoted from Da_Topper:

I was at Cyberstation in Niles, IL back in the day when I was watching a kid play and heard the call out.

Is that the arcade in Golf Mill?

#84 6 years ago
Quoted from Da_Topper:

Cyberstation is what it used to be called years ago when it was owned by Namco. Not sure what its called now, but its owned by some older guy that overcharges for dirty, broken pinballs for sale.

I grew up ten minutes from Golf Mill. My friends and I used to go there to play Mortal Kombat back in the day.

2 weeks later
#97 6 years ago
Quoted from Pacer:

I've gotten 2.6.

Wow!!! Yesterday, I was playing and I did it as fast I could possibly imagine. As soon as the ball was fed to the right flipper, I flipped early and gently caromed it off the right slingshot. The ball bounced directly over to the left flipper, and I timed it on the fly and shot it right up the ramp. I thought for sure I would have set a new record, and yet I didn't beat my previous record of 3.7 seconds. I honestly don't see how it can be done any faster. I think some of it might have to do with how fast the ball comes through the shooter lane hole. If it gets hung up there even a tiny bit, it can cost you an extra half a second or so.

#107 6 years ago
Quoted from Hatska1:

Got my hands on some of the early prototype target housings for Indy 500 ...

Nice! I'm really digging the purple!

Those housings are always getting cracked, particularly the ones close to the flippers. I think the repros might be a little stronger that the originals, but they crack also. I've replaced both of mine twice. In fact, I think one of them currently has a crack in it again. They just take so much abuse. I've come to the conclusion that you simply have to accept it. It isn't noticeable while you're playing, so I'm just going to leave it for now.

#109 6 years ago
Quoted from knobstone:

I used a piece of weather foam to help reduce the bounce outs ...

Interesting idea. How effective is it?

#113 6 years ago

Ever since we started discussing pit stop times, I've been obsessed with beating my old record of 3.7 seconds. Mission accomplished! I just beat it by a whopping tenth of a second.

Pit_Stop_Record.JPG

#131 6 years ago
Quoted from Pacer:

Finished last night!

Looks great! I've been playing I500 a lot lately. It truly is one of the best pins ever made, IMHO.

1 month later
#153 6 years ago
Quoted from DavidC:

... changed the colors of leds on targets, orange, blue and green...

I've never heard of someone doing this before. I'd love to see some closeup photos of what they look like with the new LEDs.

#159 6 years ago

I had someone offer me $4K for mine, and I wouldn't sell it. The pin is awesome!

#165 6 years ago
Quoted from Tortelvis:

I think I actually offered you more than that.

LOL! Indeed you did ...
So what's the deal? You still haven't found one?

#170 6 years ago

I finally had a monster game last night where I accomplished all the major goals. I started all the modes, scored a victory lap, hit a super jackpot during multiball, completed the race (200 laps), and then hit another victory lap. I've been trying to do this ever since I bought the game, but this is the first time I pulled it off. I have my game set up to play very difficult, so it was no easy feat.

#178 6 years ago
Quoted from JesseB:

Did you finish in position #1 as well, that would be an awesome accomplishment!

No. I was 27th, or something like that. I also forgot about the light up targets, so I guess I technically didn't complete EVERY major accomplishment. Oh well, back to the drawing board.

4 months later
#219 5 years ago

The latest version is 1.1. Here's the full revision history:

http://www.actionpinball.com/tech/indy500.txt

2 weeks later
#227 5 years ago
Quoted from Schwaggs:

Hey I500 owners. The GI dimming on my I500 isn't working. The GI will turn on and off but not dim. Am I missing anything during game play or is the only thing I am missing is power saving mode when the machine is idle?

Do you have "Allow Dim Illumination" set to yes?

#231 5 years ago
Quoted from Schwaggs:

Do you know if the I500 uses any dimming effects during game play or is it only used as the power saver mode?

I don't think the game uses dimming effects very often, but it definitely uses them during the opening sequence to the main multiball.

#235 5 years ago
Quoted from t2:

I bought an Indy 500 that is missing all 3 illuminated target assemblies. Marco has the PCB and bracket but I can not locate the target assemblies. Any help locating these would be much appreciated! New or used.

You are also going to need something for the hinges. I recommend this brass tubing that Pinbits sells ...

http://www.pinbits.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=13_31&products_id=349&zenid=68k50jb5g8kqbtfac07uf2q6f7

The one thing that may be nearly impossible to obtain are the springs. I don't think I've ever seen them for sale anywhere. I'm sure you could use a different spring, but I have no idea how you would go about finding a suitable replacement. As a last resort, you could always buy the complete assembly from PSPA ...

http://www.pinballspareparts.com.au/a-19820-1.html

#237 5 years ago
Quoted from Schwaggs:

There are 3 busted up targets on eBay that May have the pins and springs (better ask since you can't see them in the pictures).

Nice find! If you look really closely at the picture, you can see that the hinge is present in both the right and left target. I would have to assume that all three springs are there as well, but I sent the seller a question about it just to be sure. You should probably grab these, t2. I realize $30 is a crazy amount of money for three tiny springs, but like I said before, they are very difficult to procure.

Here's a link to the auction ...

ebay.com link » Lot Of 3 Used Targets For Bally Indianapolis 500 Pinball Machine

#240 5 years ago

I got a response back from the eBay seller:

The targets work as they were pulled from the game... the clear piece springs back and forth as if it were hit by the ball. On each target, the actuator "finger" for the opto is broken off, so you would have to find a fix for that. Also does not include any optical boards.

It sounds like all three springs are definitely there. I'd grab them while you can.

#241 5 years ago
Quoted from t2:

So I will need the PCB and bracket assembly and also the complete illuminated target assembly? Any thing else.

Just to be clear, each target assembly consists of five parts:

Black cover
Clear target face
Illuminated target PCB
Hinge
Spring

3 weeks later
#276 5 years ago

All the parts you need to rebuild the light up targets should be available. It's just a matter of hunting them down. It's basically three parts: The black housing, the clear target face, and the PCB with the LEDs.

2 weeks later
#299 5 years ago

I don't think I've ever seen decals available for I500, backbox or otherwise. It's probably an issue of licensing. I500 also had a very small production run, so there isn't huge demand for them.

#303 5 years ago

It is a pain in the ass getting the spring installed and the target put back together.

#312 5 years ago
Quoted from t2:

When the ball shoots out of the Turbo scoop how fast should it come out? I was expecting it to fly out of there but it just, sorta, shoots out nothing special.

The turbo shoots the two balls out faster during multiball than when it just shoots a single ball out at other times. On many I500s, the two balls comes careening out of there so fast that they fly off the wireform.

4 weeks later
#353 5 years ago

You can have mine for only $8K, Neo.

2 weeks later
#364 5 years ago
Quoted from CaptainNeo:

That's a nice Indy, but i'd take those crappy plastic protectors off before they ruin that almost perfect cabinet.

I like how the PinGuard style protectors look. To me, they are a mod that enhances the visual appeal of the game.

8 months later
#441 4 years ago
Quoted from yoyoma:

Anyone out there have an extra target opto they can sell? Having a hard time finding one.

Are you looking for just the opto, or the whole assembly?

#444 4 years ago
Quoted from yoyoma:

Also just added green Britebutton flippers from Pinballlife. Very impressive and highly recommend.

I installed BriteButtons in my WPT and TWD. It's a great product, and by far the best illuminated flipper button solution I have seen. They are expensive, but in my opinion, well worth it.

6 months later
#478 4 years ago
Quoted from KingDaddy:

Happy new member - just got an excellent sample version with Cointaker Premium LED Kit.

Congrats! I hope you have UV protection on those windows. I500s are notorious for cabinet fade.

#480 4 years ago
Quoted from pintime:

On my game i changed the upper flipper coil to weaker red coil FL11630 also changed flipper bat rubber to titan silicone. These changes helped a lot. There are very few bounce outs, and the weaker coil has more than enough power to make shot.

That's an interesting solution. The upper flipper only has one real purpose, so as long as you can consistently make the the lock shot, I see no downside to using a weaker coil. Can you still make the shot when the ball comes screaming around form the left orbit?

11 months later
#638 3 years ago
Quoted from Deaconblooze:

I just joined the club. None of my LED targets are working, so I guess I have some work to correct that.. Is there anywhere that these can be sourced, or is it pretty much necessary to rebuild them at this point?

Just make sure you don't lose that little hinge spring while you have the target apart. It would be extremely difficult to source.

1 month later
#659 3 years ago
Quoted from Deaconblooze:

I haven't had any luck sourcing the clear targets. If anyone has an extra set (or even 1) laying around, please shoot me a PM with your price!

I have two clear targets and a black housing. Shoot me a PM.

P1070851 (resized).JPG

#661 3 years ago
Quoted from Whysnow:

are these something that could be 3d printed?

I don't know anything about the durability of 3D printed parts. These particular targets take quite a bashing, especially the two closest to the flippers. Can 3D printed parts hold up to that kind of abuse?

#670 3 years ago
Quoted from TaylorVA:

The originals are difficult to find and the repros that came out had a different look and were more brittle IMO.

I installed repros in my game, and none of them ever broke, even after a lot of plays. I had the newer LED boards with the wider opto, so this may have made a difference. What did break several times, however, was the black housing. I experimented with ways to cushion the target, but I never came up with a solution I was happy with.

Quoted from Schwaggs:

I agree the repros had a slightly different look. I don't recall them being bad, just slightly different.

If you look at my photo above, you can see that the two look slightly different. It's possible that one is an original and one a repro.

2 months later
#682 2 years ago
Quoted from OlDirty:

I also wanna join the club of the borken targets. I got a nice Indy 500, but of course the targets were broken. I created an easy fix for every one with a 3D printer. It's a "slip on" solution and you don't have to take off the target which is a pain in the ***.
you can dowload the *.stl file for the 3D printer here: http://uploaded.net/file/l63qtaki
Just cut down the rest of the broken target.

Well done!

1 week later
#685 2 years ago

I just found another one of the light up target faces if someone needs one.

4 months later
#700 2 years ago
Quoted from Pinhead1982:

Does anyone have the art blades from Treasure coves installed in their I500?
Interested to see what they look like

I don't own the game anymore, but here are some photos I took before I sold it. The game had both the sideboard and backboard decals installed. I think they look awesome!

I500 (resized).JPG
I500 #1 (resized).JPG
I500 #2 (resized).JPG
I500 #3 (resized).JPG
I500 #4 (resized).JPG

2 months later
#707 2 years ago
Quoted from Whysnow:

Anyone have a source on the parts to rebuild/make a light up stand up assembly?
I have the black housing and clear face.
Just need the torsion spring
which I think is this >>> http://www.pinballspareparts.com.au/playfield-parts/springs/10-496.html
and then the hardware which is some sort of brass tubular rivet.

Pinbits sells the brass hinge tubing, but I think you are going to have a very hard time finding that spring. AFAIK, it's unobtanium.

#712 2 years ago

Here's a link to all the I500 specific parts they sell. It shows the tubing as "sold out", but I'd give them a call ...

http://www.pinbits.com/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=13_31

1 year later
#828 9 months ago
Quoted from RTS:

I can't figure out how to reattach it. It's like playing the game Operation. Any advice?

Getting that hinge part back together is a pain in the ass.

Quoted from RTS:

(Also, are reproductions of these targets available anywhere? )

I believe I have one if you need it.

#833 9 months ago
Quoted from RTS:

Broken spring? Possibly.

Bent to shit while trying to reattach the target? Yes.

It is unreal how difficult it is to reattach these targets. A simple spring design would've been so much better.

You want to be really careful with those springs. To my knowledge, they are unobtanium.

#836 8 months ago
Quoted from RTS:

What is the trick to attach the plastic target back into the black plastic housing? The plastic hinge looks like it will break off if you attempt to snap it into place with force.

Be careful. The plastic part doesn't snap into anything. It just sits in place and then gets locked together with the housing when you slide the metal rod through it.

Quoted from RTS:

And how the heck do you align the delicate spring wire to line up into the hole?

It is a pain in the ass. You just have to go very slowly. I use a smaller metal rod as a place holder to line up the spring with the target face. I then carefully displace the smaller rod with the correct one as I slide it through.

#838 8 months ago
Quoted from RTS:

I found another method that appears to work exceptionally well, even on targets that might have a broken plastic tab. This method is simple and easy. And the materials are readily available.

Take a small flipper spring, stretch out a section to size, cut it, and hot glue it into the inner side of the black plastic housing that holds the target. There is a small ledge inside that the spring can sit on. Then hot-glue the other end of the spring to the target.

The hot glue provides a surprisingly strong, solid attachment of the spring to the plastic. I know this because it was not easy to remove the spring when I was testing various spring sizes and positions. When the hot glue dries, it is like a soft rubber, allowing some give, as opposed to a brittle glue that could just snap under stress. I was really surprised how good it works.

I also found just putting a single spring on one side is just as good, if not better. Here is a pic where I used two springs on each side to give an idea of placement. I ended up using just one spring on only one side, as two springs was overkill. This target has a very similar feel as the original targets that have the factory torsion spring.

That a very clever solution!

What I hated when I owned the game was the fact that the black housings kept getting cracked. The ones closest to the flippers are particularly susceptible, since they take quite a pounding. I tried several different methods of cushioning the target, but I never came up with anything that worked very well.

#842 8 months ago
Quoted from Schwaggs:

The brass tube that acts as the hinge has the ends flared to stop it from sliding out. You need to carefully flatten one end of the flare to allow the tube to slide out. A really small needle-nose pliers works OK for this. Once you have everything back together, use an awl or something to flare it back out.

After having to rebuild the targets several times, I came up with my own method of securing the hinges. Instead of flaring the ends of the tubing, I cut a paper clip to the right size and then bent the ends down to lock it in place. This made it much easier to work on the targets later on without messing up the tubing. Here are some photos I took right before I sold the game ...

I500 target 2 (resized).JPGI500 target 1 (resized).JPG
1 week later
#854 8 months ago
Quoted from BioBa:

I was thinking about making a decal for the spinning race car. The grey "road" looks a bit boring. I was thinking more about a darker asphalt look with white line markings. Any interest?

That sounds like a cool idea.

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