(Topic ID: 54428)

Indianapolis 500 owners thread. Everyone welcome.

By stevevt

10 years ago


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  • 1,736 posts
  • 228 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 9 days ago by Santis
  • Topic is favorited by 78 Pinsiders

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#352 9 years ago

I have to say, I don't own this game, but it is growing on me. the more I play it at tournaments the better I like it. I'll probably get one down the road when I have room to hold it.

2 weeks later
#363 9 years ago

That's a nice Indy, but i'd take those crappy plastic protectors off before they ruin that almost perfect cabinet.

#365 9 years ago
Quoted from gweempose:

I like how the PinGuard style protectors look. To me, they are a mod that enhances the visual appeal of the game.

Yes, but they WILL ruin your cabinet. You think cabinet denting and crinkle is bad at the edge of a metal leg, see how it is, when it's 1/4" beyond the edges of the leg. 10X's worse. Only way to go to protect your cabinet is the metal protectors that go on the inside of your legs. Only true way to protect your cabinet. Especially on an unfaded nice original.

#367 9 years ago

felt will eventually dig through because of the rocking action. Compresses the felt and will cut in eventually. Only true way to avoid damage is the metal inside job style stand offs. So the outsides of the legs never touch the cabinet.

#370 9 years ago

Those are the ones and they are fantastic. Best thing to come out of stern in a long time. I used to think the plastic ones that overhang the legs "protected" as well. Until my TF LE crinkled like crazy because of those pieces of shit.

#372 9 years ago

Yup, and i've stated it on here at least 20 times. People still don't understand sometimes.

#374 9 years ago

they say..what you don't know....... Bah... never mind.

#376 9 years ago

no need to score with the metal ones. No shifting is going on and the legs don't touch the cabinet, so your good.

#381 9 years ago

Can't go wrong with those metal ones. I've bought them for every game I have and never had a problem since. You will be happy you did.

1 year later
#510 8 years ago

so who is sick of their indy 500 now, and wants to move one. Maybe you want to sell to get something new that came out?

#512 8 years ago

I would have a scan of it, if I restored one, but I don't think anyone ever sent me an indy 500 playfield. They usually don't wear much.

4 months later
#572 8 years ago

Finally landed one. Actually it fell into my lap, but I had the feelers out for a year or 2 on this title. Nice when they show up for you and only 30 min away from the house. This is pretty much how it came too. Nice not having to shop it or repair to much. had to install a socket for the RAM so I can install the Anypin in it. Plays and looks great.

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1 week later
#574 7 years ago

i've been playing the shit out of this since I got it. Man, this game has a lot more going on than I even thought. sooo satisfying , having triple playfield scoring going on, starting multiball, and getting that 3rd ball in the turbo for super jackpot and triple. Holy shit. I'm not a fan of the theme, but this game is a keeper.

1 week later
#580 7 years ago

anyone have a trick to keep direct shots to stay in the green flag saucer? I tried putting blue rubber against the back wall of the shot, still flies right and out into the pop lanes. Only from fast direct shots. frustrating. Every shot should register. Turbo shots are rejected sometimes as well, but not as often as the saucer.

#582 7 years ago

I do notice that sometimes the next mode will not flash to let you know what's next. and sometimes the upper left light wont' show in certain attract animations.

#585 7 years ago

I Fixed the middle saucer bounce out issue......

So before, I had placed a blue rubber brick on the left side of the backwall. There was no change. So I took it out. Now I moved it to the right side right up to the edge of the metal. now it's perfect. balls that go into the middle drop right into the saucer. Everything works fantastic. I stuck the blue rubber up with some dry adhesive I have on hand, but you can do it with double sided foam tape as well. use the thin stuff. Clean the metal with alcohol first to make sure it sticks well. I didn't even take anything apart to get it in there. I had my piece cut, and used really long needle nose pliers. Put the adhesive on one side of the blue. peel the back. Hold it on the sides with the needlenose. Guide it under the gate stick it to the wall and reach your hand through the little hole you have and press it tight. Tada!!!

no bounce outs seemed to help a lot. Before my scores would range from 20million to 900 million. Usually 1 game of 200 million + and 20 games of under 40 million. Played a couple of games, and finally reached victory lap for modes, and again for laps in the same game. 2.4 billion!!!! No bounce outs helped a lot in this aspect. I have my outlanes as high as they go, no extra balls and about 7.5 pitch. (set super hard so no long lines during league).

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#591 7 years ago

nice looking game Jim. Looks like mine. Slight fade on one side but damn nice looking cabinet all around.

No cliffy in mine. and turbo stays in about 75% of the time. Clean shots always stay in. Hows the blue rubber on the top look?

I just looked at mine and noticed the blue circle is much thinner than i've seen on most B/W games. Maybe if this was replaced, they may have replaced it , with the more common thick one. Would cause many bounce outs. If I got a lot of kickbacks, i'd shave the circle at a downward angle, starting about 25% from the top and cut an angle. To force the ball downward more when hit.

#598 7 years ago

I had to adjust one of my light ups were not working either. Someone created little metal fins on all my standups. One had the glue let loose a little. So I epoxied it, and been working perfect ever since.

For bounce outs, dead foam would work, but there really isn't a place to put it, unless you take out the blue circle. Bending it up slightly might work. that is the fix for the IJ mode start saucer.

#601 7 years ago

i bet the cliffy is causing the jump. My cliffy on my RFM, will catch the edge as it's going through the lock path, and won't register fast shots because the ball is in the air, and causing the proxy sensor not to see the ball.

6 months later
#684 7 years ago

Mine has aluminum metal fins. Someone else went through the trouble of fix it. Did a good job too.

1 year later
#740 6 years ago
Quoted from OlDirty:

If someone needs a bit of inspiration to colorize the backbox. I just did mine like this:

no no no. Never ever use color in backboxes or playfield GI's. Looks like shit every time. Especially with a nice art package on the backglass like this one has. Just go with warm white. And pull out half of the bulbs......space them out so you only have a bulb about 3-4 empty sockets evenly spaced out and you reduce your glare about 80%. you wont' even know that many bulbs are gone. Warm white only.

Anyone have any other options for inner cabinet side art? I don't like the checkerboard design. I would like maybe like the inside of a race track. Have some road, fence and crowd, to make it look like the playfield is on the track. Would fit better with the theme. Checkerboard looks drastically out of place and overrides the playfield.

3 weeks later
#759 6 years ago

piece of the blue block double taped to the backwall of saucers, prevents the bounce outs. Did it on the upper middle and the turbo shot. Very very rarely do I have a bounce out. I discussed it earlier in this thread I believe.

3 months later
#788 5 years ago

have someone catch them at a show. They usually have a booth at the shows.

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