I checked my turbo and it does not stop with the opto lined up, it stops every time with the opto blocked which lines up the pocket for the ball to land after being shot up by the VUK.

So what you are saying is, when the green arrow lock light is flashing, and you try and lock the ball, it shoots it out and will not hold it? When this happens, does the first green arrow go lit solid (indicates a locked ball)?

I have to say, I don't own this game, but it is growing on me. the more I play it at tournaments the better I like it. I'll probably get one down the road when I have room to hold it.

You can have mine for only $8K, Neo.

sorry your 2k over my max for any game.

Hey folks, I need your input. I've noticed that my playfield is a different color than most. Mine fades from purple to blue down bottom and the center of the raceway is blue/purple fade too. Most I've seen have solid purple down low and red/orange in the raceway. Anyone have the same as mine? Here's a pic:

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Could it be a sample game? http://www.ipdb.org/showpic.pl?id=2853&picno=41460

What color are the circuit boards on the bottom of the playfield? Some sample games had red circuit boards (production games had green). Not sure if the red board thing applies to I500 though.

You've got an early version of the playfield. Sweet! How about your cabinet art? IPDB notes that there were changes to that as well. Show us a pick of your cab

Pretty faded, but doesn't look red at all:

photo-1.JPG

That's all the red and orange completely faded

I thought so too. But with the early production playfield, I wonder if the cab decals were different too? Look at the red on the cars against the background. There is no resemblance between the two. Could be though I guess.

I can't find the source but I'm sure I've seen somewhere that the early cabinet artwork had a fully red background. Though the red has faded out, it look like yours had the gradient of the standard cabinet art.

Just picked up mine last weekend and I'm loving it. Replaced two of the LED targets and waxed it up, It's an extremely fast / fun game. What an awesome overall design.

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That's a nice Indy, but i'd take those crappy plastic protectors off before they ruin that almost perfect cabinet.

I like how the PinGuard style protectors look. To me, they are a mod that enhances the visual appeal of the game.

Yes, but they WILL ruin your cabinet. You think cabinet denting and crinkle is bad at the edge of a metal leg, see how it is, when it's 1/4" beyond the edges of the leg. 10X's worse. Only way to go to protect your cabinet is the metal protectors that go on the inside of your legs. Only true way to protect your cabinet. Especially on an unfaded nice original.

How about heavy duty felt leg protectors (I have some from RotorDave)? I've had no issues with those and I figure that they work well because instead of a sharp edge pushing on your decals, you the thick felt is padding and absorbing all the pressure.

I haven't tried the metal ones you mention, but wouldn't they put more of pressure onto a smaller surface area, stressing the cabinet wood and allowing the legs/machine to move more than normal?

felt will eventually dig through because of the rocking action. Compresses the felt and will cut in eventually. Only true way to avoid damage is the metal inside job style stand offs. So the outsides of the legs never touch the cabinet.

Thanks for the info. Are the metal ones you mentioned carried by Pinball Life?

Here is the link for the metal protectors at PBL

http://www.pinballlife.com/index.php?p=product&id=2711

Those are the ones and they are fantastic. Best thing to come out of stern in a long time. I used to think the plastic ones that overhang the legs "protected" as well. Until my TF LE crinkled like crazy because of those pieces of shit.

I see what you mean: http://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/cc-cactus-canyon-with-ccc-for-sale-in-sf-bay-area

Yup, and i've stated it on here at least 20 times. People still don't understand sometimes.

There was a guy who bought a brand new Doug Huse cab with new CFTBL decals applied, and the first thing he did was to add those pincab protectors. Poor guy.

they say..what you don't know....... Bah... never mind.

He found out very quickly. Not sure if he was on Pinside or KLOV, but it was pretty sad to see that even though the wrinkling was pretty minor (so far). The scoring technique and these new protectors seem to be great for decal'd cabs.

no need to score with the metal ones. No shifting is going on and the legs don't touch the cabinet, so your good.

Ah, cool.

Just left this club tonight ....

Yay happy to join this club today

Thanks. I removed them last night and the metal ones are on their way

Can't go wrong with those metal ones. I've bought them for every game I have and never had a problem since. You will be happy you did.

Just finished installing the restored playfield from Kruzman.

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Looks great!

Question on Pit Ramp diverter car assy; I took mine off to clean trough and can't remember if the 1/2" washer goes in trough or under playfield. Can someone check and possibly post photo of how this assy. is put together?

I don't have a picture but I just looked at mine, there is a washer below the e-clip just above the ramp itself.

Just officially joined the club! My Indy 500 arrived last night. Swapped for a Road Show.

It just came off route where it had been since new. The game is dirty and needs a good shop job, but even with the dirt, semi-tired flippers and old rubbers it is super fast. I can't imagine how fast this game will be once I'm done shopping it out.

Has anyone else noticed Indy 500 climbing the charts like a rocket this year? It was #53 in Jan, now at #41. It is the fastest climbing game on the charts by a long shot. I wonder if it has any further to go.

Great tutorial. Is this you playing? Unreal score!

BTW this game has the steepest flippers. The ball gets down the outlanes and off the flipper if you even hesitate for one moment. Really loving this game.

I joined the club june 21st. I love this pin and so does the rest of the family including my grandson who hit multiball a few times. He's 4 and one half. I think it's in great shape and worth the 600 mile round trip.

Man this game is punishing! I love it.

When I got my game the flippers were aligned too low so I realigned them correctly last night and had about an hour session on it.

Soooo punishing. 90% of the time if you miss a ramp shot and hit a post/target the ball is an unsaveable guided missile straight for an outlane! BAM – you lose.

The light up targets are broken (typical) on mine so I'll have to have a crack at repairing those. The op gave me a bunch of old broken targets so I have some to practice on, a few replacement housings and half a dozen new PCBs for them. Pretty happy with that.

Agreed! I500 is a challenging game. But no better feeling than getting 3X playfield scoring just before getting the second ball in the turbo then hitting some 3X jackpots! Easier said than done but when it happens, pure magic!

Search around Pinside for some great threads on repairing the targets. If you don't want to mess with trying to fix them, I think BAA has all the parts in stock to replace them... however, all 3 will run you about $100.

I should give that a go. I have been trying to get the super jackpot. Have come close but not managed it yet! It means my multiballs totally flame out, but it is fun to try.

I ended up ordering some targets from Mr Pinball Australia. Being closest to New Zealand they offered the cheapest shipping. The targets, 2x flipper rebuild kit, new bumper skirts, some flipper rubbers and shipping was $93 USD. Not too bad.

I also realised why my outlanes are so brutal. The post rubbers are so old that they're shiny on the inside and spin like wheels on the post. So as soon as the ball touches it, the rubber rolls the ball right into the outlane. No chance to nudge or anything! I need to swap those out ASAP.

On the outlanes, I saw an I500 at a show with what appeared to be larger than stock rubbers on those posts. The manual shows 5/16" so I am going to give some 3/8" rings a try... Only costs $.40 so not a big investment to try it...

So i completely rebuilt all 3 flippers and the feel is considerably better. I also decided to get rid of the big honking spotlights and replace them with something a little more inconspicuous (1st picture 1/2 completed). Even finished LEDing the playfield

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http://www.indianapolismonthly.com/hoosierfeatures/2014/05/23/at-home-graham-rahal-racing-room

Graham Rahal shows off his I500 pin.

I am working on the Tech Chart for Indianapolis 500 right now.
I think the manual has the names for the GI strings mixed up.
Right now they are listed as following:
White-Brown = Upper Left Playfield
White-Orange = Upper Right Playfield
White-Yellow = Lower Playfield
White-Green = Backbox - Coindoor (can't be right, because coindoor Always use white-violet)
White-Violet = Backbox Title

Can any owner check for me please?

Peter
www.inkochnito.nl

The GI strings are confirmed now.
White-Brown = Upper Left Playfield
White-Orange = Upper Right Playfield
White-Yellow = Lower Playfield
White-Green = Backbox
White-Violet = Backbox - Coindoor

Hey guys - got a question.

A local friend and fellow pinhead picked up a project I500 a little while back that he may sell me. I'm going to go check it out on Thursday. He's a good dude and has no intention of screwing me over price wise. In fact, he's asking a fair price for it given the condition him and I have discussed.

However! I'm not sure him nor I know exactly how much work needs to go into it. As such, I figured I'd ask here and see if you guys could give me a few pieces of info that will help me decide if it's worth my time and money:

- Are there any parts on I500 that are super expensive to replace/impossible to get?
- Besides pops and flippers (which can be rebuilt), what major areas are worth looking at on this machine?
- In terms of wear, what spots should I keep my eyes peeled for?

Appreciate any help! If it looks like it can be salvaged for not a huge monetary investment, I'll probably bite. I don't mind spending time on it (I think he said the cab has typical fade which is to be expected), but if it's going to command a huge cost to get up and going, it simply won't be worth it for me I don't think. Thanks!

None of the plastic ramps are reproduced, so if they are unusable, plan on $150 from Australia for the right ramp and unobtanuim for the left.

The turbo blades are unobtanium.

Turbo and car spinner motors (upper right) are around for $50 - 75 each.

The 3 optical targets used to be unobtanuim but are reproduced now. About $100 for 3 new black plastic frames and 3 clear targets.

Pop caps are specific to the machine but available at reasonable prices.

Plastics are reproduced and about $160 for a complete set.

Translites are around, but rare (not reproduced).

Indy car models available from regular sources.

Most of the other parts and boards are common for early-mid 90s machines.

Fantastic - thanks for the super concise list! I'll bring it with when I go to his place.

Any chance the ramps will be reproduced? I seem to remember him saying they're OK, but I may be blowing smoke. And are the turbo blades the parts with the ball lock?