Her are pics of mine. Thanks to Tantrum for the pole and track mods. Back Alley did the powder coat.

1E642693-9728-4D42-9BA1-D386580F06AE (resized).jpeg

72F50BAC-3D75-45CE-83DC-B6379658FB65 (resized).jpeg

A57299C0-193E-4406-9F9F-F1997C31A5C9 (resized).jpeg

CD51F1FA-3377-4CC3-B4CD-E25163F22580 (resized).jpeg

Nice! Keep us updated! Where are you getting you cabinet decals?

I didn't go thorough this whole thread, but I'm having issues getting the ball to land in the scoop at the very top of the playfield from a right loop shot. The game is leveled and set at 6.5 degrees. I used a video to see what's happening and it appears the ball is going around the loop; but then is dropping slightly and hitting the post to the left of the entrance to the scoop. It's like it's not cleanly hugging the rail at it flattens out and goes across the backboard and the ball moves down a little. These are all clean, fast shots and I'd say 1 in 10 will land in the scoop.

It doesn't seem like this is would be normal. Any ideas?

EDIT: I removed the right ball guide and reinstalled it, put all the ramps back in and started a game. Seems better. The ball makes it 9/10 times now, which I can live with. I'm not sure what I did to the ball guide re-installing it; but I'm not messing with it again.

Thank you for the pictures guys !
Schwaggs I'm thinking about ordering them at pinballdecals.eu I've had some good experiences with them!

That colour looks great on your machine.

So do you guys just accept that the light up targets seem to break easily? Is there a preferred replacement or mod that seems most durable?

They break "easy" because people do not replace the foam dampening.
Once broken you can repair with this.
https://pinside.com/pinball/market/shops/1026-pinball-haus/02339-indianapolis-500-target-repair-kit

Hey Everyone. Tomorrow, I'll be the second owner of a HUO Indy 500.
I've gone through all 26 pages of this thread but didn't see a whole lot of talk about LED kits.
Is there a consensus as to who puts together the ideal aftermarket kit for this pin?

I'm like a kid on Christmas Eve right now. I can't wait to plug it in and flip the switch.

I have the LED kit from Marcos. At first I liked it I thought it looked really good. Then I saw an original game and realized mine looked pretty terrible (like a low rider with purple lights under the car). I would recommend replacing all G.I. with a warm white frosted LED. I do still have Colored LED lamps (Other than GI) from the Marcos kit and it actually looks fine. My two cents!

https://www.titanpinball.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=17&product_id=63
Warm white 44’s for GI.

I shopped an Indy 500 and fitted Comet 2SMD sunlight LED's for the GI. Looks great without drastic change.

By the way congrats and enjoy Christmas morning! This is a fun game that I think is really underrated. It still gets regular play (by me!) amongst some other really good and new games. What made it really come alive was Titan silicone rings/rubbers. I’m not sure if the game is meant to play the way they make it play but it’s really fast now (compared to the dead old rubbers that were previously on it).

My game was routed (I think) and fairly beat up when I got it, but with a little TLC, flipper rebuilds, new lights, new rubbers, deep clean/wax, it’s really good!

Thanks for the additional info. My plan is to play it for a couple of weeks and figure out everything it needs. Then start tearing it down while cleaning and waxing everything. I have very little experience especially with electrical troubleshooting, but I'm fairly determined that I can do this myself. What it definitely needs are new decals as the sides and front are pretty faded. That's going to require removing the entire playfield and that's a little terrifying. I'm not going to buy a rotisserie setup, so what's the most stable way to set up the playfield outside of the cabinet?

I need to do this too, I’ve got bad fade. I even have the new decals. I think the old decals need to be heated off, cabinet sanded down, painted, reapplied, etc. this process is outside my comfort zone. Please post how you end up doing it and how it turns out. I bought the decals on EBay, about $250.

Comet sunlight 2smd for the playfield GI. Use comet 2smd warm white for the backbox. Don’t worry about doing LEDs in the inserts until you are also ready to add the OCD board with them.

Another method could be to go the Radcal route. I asked Mirco about it a while ago and was told I500 was an option.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/revised-rad-cals-for-many-more-wms-games/page/8#post-5917656

Let’s hope the Radcals become available!

I went back and checked my messages. Basically I was told that if Rick from PPS has the files (and since the cabinet art is available I assume it is but who knows?) then Mirco/Highclass pinballs can make them. So you may want to message him directly.

So I think I'm going to go with decals over the Radcals when I redo my cabinet. My question is, to the guys who have bought decals in the past, where did you get them and were you happy with the quality of the artwork? I see one or two guys got them from EBay but the guy selling on there doesn't have the greatest reputation/feedback.

So I got the adapters to repair a broken light up opto interrupter and then I noticed that the one in need of repair is the only one with guides in place (see right) and the opto interrupter piece gets stuck between them because it's too thick. Looks like the guides were removed in the other light ups. What's the best approach here? All options seem like a pain in the ass.

IMG_20201107_142916994 (resized).jpg

I bought cabinet decals from planetary,the front decal was to small.They finally sent me one that fit but it took a month.They were a improvement over my faded decals but the yellows are off and the left side was to small ,luckily the white border was covered by the rail.These are they same ones on eBay by classic arcades ,if you buy them make sure they fit before you start removing originals

The piece that fixes it should fit between the guides. I found a 3D printing file and ordered several of them (from an online 3D printing service) and they fit through the guides. That piece (the guides and opto, can’t really remember exactly what they look like now) can come off, but they are riveted so you have to drill out the rivet. I replaced the rivets with a small nut/bolt when I moved my guide over to a new PCB. If the others work without the guides I think the easiest option would be to just take out the guides, or find better 3D printed “fixes” that fit.

The whole dealing with the target PCB’s is without a doubt a pain in the ass. Rivets, springs, etc.

Thanks for the reply. I got the pieces for sale on here and they're definitely too thick. I may just file them down to a thinner width, as the "least invasive" option. Or I might saw off the guide posts so I don't have to to deal with the rivets.

I love this game so much, but I can see why Bally never again employed these targets!

Drilling out the rivets is really easy. Scared me at first. But I’d just get pieces that fit, leave the guides in.

Do the others register fine without the guides?

Re: Broken Light-up targets -

You can actually fix them for 5 cents worth of electrical tape. Mine broke off over 10 years ago - Just made some little black fingers out of electrical tape, taped em on, and they've been good for thousands of games. Still going strong.

Holy shit that's amazing! Will try! Thanks!

Yes, they register fine as far as I can tell on playing and testing.

ebay.com link: Indy 500 Target Pinball Circuit Board Indianapolis

This seems like a rare find. I had to order mine from Italy and Australia, thought I got the last two in the world.

Holy cow, that price is nuts considering DumbAss is making repro boards.

Finished my Indy500 restore with new decals and black powdercoat

3D50081E-F852-4F9F-AC42-E985F5D0D3EC (resized).jpeg

A954F936-D1C1-41A4-AA4B-9039AB49843F (resized).jpeg

B52531BE-7B2B-4F17-A625-FA0571958FF9 (resized).jpeg

How many people would buy a new left ramp if they were available? I know I would. Jody is considering making them if there is enough interest. Check out the Ramp o Matic ramp thread and let him know if you would buy one. Mìke

Yes on the price and yes on the boards.

boards_093.jpg

I am having my apron powder coated. I was able to find replacement decals except for the middle decal. Does anyone know where to get that decal. Much appreciated.

Awesome! What are the differences between the three boards and where do you use the different board designs?

Sorry for the lack of information. That's because I spent about 15+ minutes writing up the explanation in the thread I have going for all my boards. You can find more information @ https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/dumbass-test-and-reproduction-pcbs/page/5#post-5973423 if you're interested.

In summary the:

- left version is the original 3mm slotted opto with mounting bracket hole spacing identical to the original.

- center version is a 5mm slotted opto with mounting bracket hole spacing identical to the original.

- right version is a 5mm slotted opto with different mounting bracket hole spacing that will require a new bracket. The wider spacing provides more clearance from the opto. The bracket does not exist and needs to be fabricated.

Boards were literally just put together and need to be bench tested. I have very high confidence they will work from an electrical standpoint but want to verify on my bench first. I do NOT have an Indianapolis 500 machine to test it in although I have the target assembly. The assembly is not mine and therefore I cannot drill out the rivets to test the mounting bracket. It's the mechanical aspect that I am uncertain of.

Thanks. I had no idea about that other thread so appreciate the link. Looks like some nice options for a board that seemed to almost have disappeared from the face of the earth.

Having now "installed" and tested with gameplay, I can vouch for the light up targets repair caylegeorge recommended. Just fold a piece of electrical tape halfway down (to mimic the opto interrupter) and then cut the remaining tape down the middle so you can twist half of each side to stick to the right and left sides of the front and back of the target. Works beautifully!

May be looking to pick up this game. What should I be looking for with this title ?

Playfield wear at turbobobby lock scoop, broken left side of left ramp entrance, broken or missing illuminated targets and/or LEDs in the targets. Other than that, typical pinball machine stuff.

I'd add wear at the saucer for the long center shot. Can lead to a lot of frustrating bounce outs SDTM. I rebuilt mine with putty and some foam padding, but you may also be able to install a gate in front of it.

Can you post a pic?

This is admittedly sloppy but it worked. I used a wood epoxy putty to build up the saucer. Haven't sanded it to clean it up. Would pick a different style of epoxy if I had it to do again. I still got some bounce outs so I added the little piece of green foam you see, which worked to soften the shot. I'd say less than 5% of center shots bounce out now (had been probably over 50% prior to adjustments). Could definitely do a prettier job but for now I just want the game to play right. Also, see above for the easy electrical tape fix to the light up target breakage issue. Still working beautifully!
IMG_20201213_120724431 (resized).jpgIMG_20201213_120738560 (resized).jpg

Looking for a 500 in the Buffalo NY area.
Will pay a decent price for a nice example!
( no fade)

I got an OPTO error on the trough and i took both the sender and receiver board off for testing. 3 of the receivers don’t register in the switch test, even after cleaning with Q-tip and IPA. Should i buy a replacement receiver board with the OPTO sensors installed or just solder on 3 new OPTO sensors? (Any vendor recommendations?) The ball launcher was acting up during the last games before i got the error by sending double balls out onto the play field. The other weird thing is the turbo OPTO shows up as failed when doing the diagnostic test. I suppose it’s possible they failed at about the same time but seems unlikely. Potential issue with the main OPTO PCB? Thanks for the help, i have only had the game for a few months so still learning.

C4C2FCA5-43A8-4116-A0E7-80413AF652B9 (resized).jpeg

are any of your optos working in a regular switch edge test? I haven't been under this one in a bit, but I think it's unlikely that all optos would fail at once. I'd look at the opto control board (https://www.ipdb.org/files/2853/indy500manualfull.pdf page 2-12), pull of the connectors, make sure they look ok, and then reseat them and try again.

I disconnected everything on the OPTO control board and reconnected. Still same result. But when i did the switch edge test i noticed when i trip a single trough OPTO it shows this error and then will sometimes then go to the turbo index as last switch. Seems like it’s shorting somehow. Does this give anyone more ideas on what to try? I also confirmed all the optos on the trough had the proper voltage at each OPTO on both the transmit and receive side.

B22C453C-AECE-4C77-BDED-8A372A9BFD04 (resized).jpeg

My I500 turbo lock gate. The only downside are the holes in the ball guides. You have to remove everything in the turbo area, which is quite a bit. After the holes are drilled, install the right guide. Install the gate and then install the left guide. Some bending adjustments might be required on the gate arm to get it right.PXL_20201020_140449960 (resized).jpg
PXL_20201005_203759424 (resized).jpg
PXL_20201005_204838089 (resized).jpg
PXL_20201005_204844618 (resized).jpg
PXL_20201006_015112151 (resized).jpg
PXL_20201006_015118909 (resized).jpg

I’ve never seen this and am by no means a master pinball technician, but it looks like you have a wht/grn row issue. So a few things to try:
-Check the manual for all white/green switches (on row 5) and then make sure physical connections are solid and not touching metal to metal where it shouldn’t.
-replace the u20 chip on the MPU board. On my i500 it was socketed, so it was easy. The chips are available really cheap.

Pure genius! Thanks for sharing!

Does anyone have a clear understanding of what relights "pass" on the left and "start race" in the middle? I haven't been able to sort out the logic.