(Topic ID: 54428)

Indianapolis 500 owners thread. Everyone welcome.


By stevevt

6 years ago



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There are 1000 posts in this topic. You are on page 17 of 20.
#801 1 year ago
Quoted from 27dnast:

It’s not a gap problem on my game. The ball literally seems to avoid pop contact as it (routinely) falls through the middle lane. I’m sure that reads weird. But true

Yeah I hear you. Mine does that a lot, what could one possibly do about that? Ive had it hit none of them multiple times and summed it up to bad luck

#802 1 year ago

I don’t think inhabe the pitch set too steep, but that’s a good point. I should recheck pitch and level.

What amazes me is how it goes to down the middle lane every time. I guess I could deaden the bounce I. The top right corner of the game...

#803 1 year ago

Thanks so much Mwong168

My Indy500 is working 100%

1 month later
#804 1 year ago

Looking at one of these and the race track on it moves; but goes slow and doesn’t go at the normal different speeds even when you go into the test menu? Anyone ever run into this before know what might be causing it? Any help appreciated

#805 1 year ago
Quoted from musketd:

Looking at one of these and the race track on it moves; but goes slow and doesn’t go at the normal different speeds even when you go into the test menu? Anyone ever run into this before know what might be causing it? Any help appreciated

The race track on it moves?

#806 1 year ago

Yeah it moves just very slowly not like it should

#807 1 year ago
Quoted from musketd:

Yeah it moves just very slowly not like it should

It should only have one speed... and it’s fast enough to shake the machine (almost like a shaker motor).

Sounds like the motor is bad... did you lift the PF to see if anything is obstructing movement?

#808 1 year ago
Quoted from musketd:

Yeah it moves just very slowly not like it should

The machine I recently picked up was like this. It turned out on mine the gearbox had grease that had somehow turned into pine tar. After a thorough cleaning and re-lube it functions as it should.

#809 1 year ago

Looking forward to adding gameblades and a playfield protector once I start the much meeded shop out.

20181110_085002 (resized).jpg

1 week later
#810 1 year ago

Edit top right race car goes really fast on right ramp shot. Awesome

#811 1 year ago
Quoted from delt31:

Edit top right race car goes really fast on right ramp shot. Awesome

First time I ever played I500 I asked the owner if the game had a shaker and he was like no every time you hit that right ramp repeatedly that race car spins around faster and faster. Love my I500 and I also have the same game blades installed in mine from previous poster above too.

#812 1 year ago

Hey guys any way to pick an award quickly without waiting for the timer to go to zero

#813 1 year ago

Hi all, new owner. I'm shopping out my game and will post pics.

#814 1 year ago
Quoted from delt31:

Hey guys any way to pick an award quickly without waiting for the timer to go to zero

I found taking the 15 million to be the safest bet, but I think the timer needs to run down either way

#815 1 year ago

Hi everyone, after hours I finally shopped out my game and it is rocking! After owning a ton of titles I think this one is one of the best. So fast and fun.

I have a question. I noticed my race track acted as a shaker motor prior to shopping. I reassembled and I don't get the vibrations like I used to. Any recommendations? I noticed there were two large washers and one small one for each of the two bolts that holds the assembly to the back board. I basically stacked all the washers together on each bolt and then ran the bolt through the backboard and unit. The manual doesn't say which way they should be mounted. Is there an order for washers, unit, backboard, etc. or should I just loosen the bolts? I would love to have it shaking away when I invite people over tonight.

#816 1 year ago
Quoted from Djshakes:

Hi everyone, after hours I finally shopped out my game and it is rocking! After owning a ton of titles I think this one is one of the best. So fast and fun.
I have a question. I noticed my race track acted as a shaker motor prior to shopping. I reassembled and I don't get the vibrations like I used to. Any recommendations? I noticed there were two large washers and one small one for each of the two bolts that holds the assembly to the back board. I basically stacked all the washers together on each bolt and then ran the bolt through the backboard and unit. The manual doesn't say which way they should be mounted. Is there an order for washers, unit, backboard, etc. or should I just loosen the bolts? I would love to have it shaking away when I invite people over tonight.

I’ve tightened the car assembly before, over time it comes lose and the machine shakes. Unless you have lock washers or bolts, it will start shaking again

#817 1 year ago
Quoted from Spinape:

I’ve tightened the car assembly before, over time it comes lose and the machine shakes. Unless you have lock washers or bolts, it will start shaking again

Great, I'm going to loosen them. I like the shake! It's like you are in an indy car. Trust me, my fatass knows what it's like being in one...NOT.

#818 1 year ago
Quoted from Djshakes:

Great, I'm going to loosen them. I like the shake! It's like you are in an indy car. Trust me, my fatass knows what it's like being in one...NOT.

does that really work like that? if you loosen the screws it would shake even more? I guess I can try that out.

#819 1 year ago
Quoted from delt31:

does that really work like that? if you loosen the screws it would shake even more? I guess I can try that out.

I certainly didn’t losen them intentionally, they just came lose over time.

#820 1 year ago
Quoted from delt31:

does that really work like that? if you loosen the screws it would shake even more? I guess I can try that out.

I don't know. I can't imagine why else the game really shook before like a shaker motor prior to shopping unless there is a particular order of the washers that are used to bolt it down. I didn't do anything different. I'm headed home to mess with it.

#821 1 year ago
Quoted from Djshakes:

I don't know. I can't imagine why else the game really shook before like a shaker motor prior to shopping unless there is a particular order of the washers that are used to bolt it down. I didn't do anything different. I'm headed home to mess with it.

yeah let me know what you find out as I'm interested if you can actually make it shake more. If others know chime in. Happy with the current shake but Im a big fan of shake in my games

#822 1 year ago
Quoted from delt31:

yeah let me know what you find out as I'm interested if you can actually make it shake more. If others know chime in. Happy with the current shake but Im a big fan of shake in my games

I felt it helped but the track really bounced a lot like it was loose. I tightened up and am still happy with the shake. Here's mine done. Custom posts, translucent rubbers, leds, star post lights. Pinstadium (homemade).
20181201_150502 (resized).jpg20181203_210023 (resized).jpg20181203_210027 (resized).jpg20181203_210035 (resized).jpg

#823 1 year ago

What's a fair price on I500, fully working in good players condition needing to be shopped?

3 weeks later
#824 1 year ago
Quoted from RTS:

What's a fair price on I500, fully working in good players condition needing to be shopped?

$3,200 - $3,600? My guess

#825 1 year ago
Quoted from yoyoma:

$3,200 - $3,600? My guess

I paid 3200 for mine. Needed full shop job.

20181201_150502 (resized).jpg
#826 1 year ago

$3000 about 8 months ago and it didn't need to be shopped. Came with a color DMD too. I would like to LED it one day like my last one, but I'm not in any hurry.

2 weeks later
#827 1 year ago

I just picked up this game, and two of the three (4 quadrant) targets have no spring resistance.

Anybody know the trick to re-attaching the targets into the plastic housing so that the spring gives resistance?

I can't figure out how to reattach it. It's like playing the game Operation. Any advice?

(Also, are reproductions of these targets available anywhere? )

#828 1 year ago
Quoted from RTS:

I can't figure out how to reattach it. It's like playing the game Operation. Any advice?

Getting that hinge part back together is a pain in the ass.

Quoted from RTS:

(Also, are reproductions of these targets available anywhere? )

I believe I have one if you need it.

#829 1 year ago
Quoted from gweempose:

Getting that hinge part back together is a pain in the ass.

I believe I have one if you need it.

That's awesome. I'll PM you. Thanks!

#830 1 year ago
Quoted from RTS:

I just picked up this game, and two of the three (4 quadrant) targets have no spring resistance.
Anybody know the trick to re-attaching the targets into the plastic housing so that the spring gives resistance?
I can't figure out how to reattach it. It's like playing the game Operation. Any advice?
(Also, are reproductions of these targets available anywhere? )

They are hard to find. A guy sells them on eBay in sets of three for $100. I think I bought his lasts ones as he could only send me 2 but sounds like they are being reproduced soon and he will have back in stock.

Are your springs broke?

#831 1 year ago
Quoted from Djshakes:

They are hard to find. A guy sells them on eBay in sets of three for $100. I think I bought his lasts ones as he could only send me 2 but sounds like they are being reproduced soon and he will have back in stock.
Are your springs broke?

Can you advise his sellers name thanks

#832 1 year ago
Quoted from Djshakes:

They are hard to find. A guy sells them on eBay in sets of three for $100. I think I bought his lasts ones as he could only send me 2 but sounds like they are being reproduced soon and he will have back in stock.
Are your springs broke?

Broken spring? Possibly.

Bent to shit while trying to reattach the target? Yes.

It is unreal how difficult it is to reattach these targets. A simple spring design would've been so much better.

#833 1 year ago
Quoted from RTS:

Broken spring? Possibly.

Bent to shit while trying to reattach the target? Yes.

It is unreal how difficult it is to reattach these targets. A simple spring design would've been so much better.

You want to be really careful with those springs. To my knowledge, they are unobtanium.

#834 1 year ago
Quoted from gweempose:

You want to be really careful with those springs. To my knowledge, they are unobtanium.

Pretty sure you are correct. Part number 10-496

Here is a picture for reference: https://www.pinballspareparts.com.au/10-496.html

#835 1 year ago
Quoted from Schwaggs:

Pretty sure you are correct. Part number 10-496
Here is a picture for reference: https://www.pinballspareparts.com.au/10-496.html

What is the trick to attach the plastic target back into the black plastic housing? The plastic hinge looks like it will break off if you attempt to snap it into place with force.

And how the heck do you align the delicate spring wire to line up into the hole?

#836 1 year ago
Quoted from RTS:

What is the trick to attach the plastic target back into the black plastic housing? The plastic hinge looks like it will break off if you attempt to snap it into place with force.

Be careful. The plastic part doesn't snap into anything. It just sits in place and then gets locked together with the housing when you slide the metal rod through it.

Quoted from RTS:

And how the heck do you align the delicate spring wire to line up into the hole?

It is a pain in the ass. You just have to go very slowly. I use a smaller metal rod as a place holder to line up the spring with the target face. I then carefully displace the smaller rod with the correct one as I slide it through.

#837 1 year ago
Quoted from gweempose:

Be careful. The plastic part doesn't snap into anything. It just sits in place and then gets locked together with the housing when you slide the metal rod through it.

It is a pain in the ass. You just have to go very slowly. I use a smaller metal rod as a place holder to line up the spring with the target face. I then carefully displace the smaller rod with the correct one as I slide it through.

Pain in the ass is putting it nicely. In my opinion, it's not worth the headache.

I found another method that appears to work exceptionally well, even on targets that might have a broken plastic tab. This method is simple and easy. And the materials are readily available.

Take a small flipper spring, stretch out a section to size, cut it, and hot glue it into the inner side of the black plastic housing that holds the target. There is a small ledge inside that the spring can sit on. Then hot-glue the other end of the spring to the target.

The hot glue provides a surprisingly strong, solid attachment of the spring to the plastic. I know this because it was not easy to remove the spring when I was testing various spring sizes and positions. When the hot glue dries, it is like a soft rubber, allowing some give, as opposed to a brittle glue that could just snap under stress. I was really surprised how good it works.

I also found just putting a single spring on one side is just as good, if not better. Here is a pic where I used two springs on each side to give an idea of placement. I ended up using just one spring on only one side, as two springs was overkill. This target has a very similar feel as the original targets that have the factory torsion spring.

20190128_182736 (resized).jpg
#838 1 year ago
Quoted from RTS:

I found another method that appears to work exceptionally well, even on targets that might have a broken plastic tab. This method is simple and easy. And the materials are readily available.

Take a small flipper spring, stretch out a section to size, cut it, and hot glue it into the inner side of the black plastic housing that holds the target. There is a small ledge inside that the spring can sit on. Then hot-glue the other end of the spring to the target.

The hot glue provides a surprisingly strong, solid attachment of the spring to the plastic. I know this because it was not easy to remove the spring when I was testing various spring sizes and positions. When the hot glue dries, it is like a soft rubber, allowing some give, as opposed to a brittle glue that could just snap under stress. I was really surprised how good it works.

I also found just putting a single spring on one side is just as good, if not better. Here is a pic where I used two springs on each side to give an idea of placement. I ended up using just one spring on only one side, as two springs was overkill. This target has a very similar feel as the original targets that have the factory torsion spring.

That a very clever solution!

What I hated when I owned the game was the fact that the black housings kept getting cracked. The ones closest to the flippers are particularly susceptible, since they take quite a pounding. I tried several different methods of cushioning the target, but I never came up with anything that worked very well.

#839 1 year ago
Quoted from gweempose:

That a very clever solution!
What I hated when I owned the game was the fact that the black housings kept getting cracked. The ones closest to the flippers are particularly susceptible, since they take quite a pounding. I tried several different methods of cushioning the target, but I never came up with anything that worked very well.

I suppose stronger springs might actually be better than the original torsion spring, allowing more resistance / cushion for the housing. The original design is really lame.

Thanks again for the advice and parts.

#840 1 year ago
Quoted from RTS:

I just picked up this game, and two of the three (4 quadrant) targets have no spring resistance.
Anybody know the trick to re-attaching the targets into the plastic housing so that the spring gives resistance?
I can't figure out how to reattach it. It's like playing the game Operation. Any advice?
(Also, are reproductions of these targets available anywhere? )

Check the bottom of page 485 of this manual for a diagram of how the target goes together. Play close attention to the orentation of the spring: http://www.planetarypinball.com/reference/partsmanuals/WMS_Parts_Grey_16-9562-A/index.html#/485/zoomed

The brass tube that acts as the hinge has the ends flared to stop it from sliding out. You need to carefully flatten one end of the flare to allow the tube to slide out. A really small needle-nose pliers works OK for this. Once you have everything back together, use an awl or something to flare it back out. I think it is just 1/8" brass tubing. You could just replace them with new tubing from the craft store.

#841 1 year ago
Quoted from Schwaggs:

Check the bottom of page 485 of this manual for a diagram of how the target goes together. Play close attention to the orentation of the spring: http://www.planetarypinball.com/reference/partsmanuals/WMS_Parts_Grey_16-9562-A/index.html#/485/zoomed
The brass tube that acts as the hinge has the ends flared to stop it from sliding out. You need to carefully flatten one end of the flare to allow the tube to slide out. A really small needle-nose pliers works OK for this. Once you have everything back together, use an awl or something to flare it back out. I think it is just 1/8" brass tubing. You could just replace them with new tubing from the craft store.

Unable to view the page, but I just ordered a manual. In the meantime...

Can anyone tell me the specs (watts / ohms) for the resistors on the target led board R2-R5?

Also, are there any specs listed for the actual led's on the board?

#842 1 year ago
Quoted from Schwaggs:

The brass tube that acts as the hinge has the ends flared to stop it from sliding out. You need to carefully flatten one end of the flare to allow the tube to slide out. A really small needle-nose pliers works OK for this. Once you have everything back together, use an awl or something to flare it back out.

After having to rebuild the targets several times, I came up with my own method of securing the hinges. Instead of flaring the ends of the tubing, I cut a paper clip to the right size and then bent the ends down to lock it in place. This made it much easier to work on the targets later on without messing up the tubing. Here are some photos I took right before I sold the game ...

I500 target 2 (resized).JPGI500 target 1 (resized).JPG
#843 1 year ago

Is the left ramp available for i500 yet? I'm looking at getting another one and the only thing stopping me is the condition of the left ramp. Thanks.

#844 1 year ago
Quoted from griffo84:

Is the left ramp available for i500 yet? I'm looking at getting another one and the only thing stopping me is the condition of the left ramp. Thanks.

I was looking within the last 6 months and nothing. As far as I know, I grabbed one of 5 right ramps remaining available thru retail channels. I haven't been able to source a left, but luckily mine is not bad.

#845 1 year ago

Well I got it anyway. Back in the i500 club again. Now to strip clean and led.

received_473623513171928 (resized).jpeg
#846 1 year ago

Threw in whatever LEDs I had spare.

1549170747172 (resized).jpg
#847 1 year ago

wow like someone turned on the lights !

#848 1 year ago

Comet twin 2835 Sunlight frosted.

65822534-6B30-49E6-B972-9594AE74E4C0 (resized).jpeg
#849 1 year ago
Quoted from tktlwyr:

Comet twin 2835 Sunlight frosted.

Ooo, yours has the light blue artwork near the flippers. My first one was like that. Does is also have the solid red cabinet art versus the more common orange gradient?

#850 1 year ago
Quoted from GoneFishinLvMsg:

Ooo, yours has the light blue artwork near the flippers. My first one was like that. Does is also have the solid red cabinet art versus the more common orange gradient?

No. It’s the orange gradient.

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