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(Topic ID: 272118)

Indiana Jones WMS flipper reset issue


By TZ

4 months ago



Topic Stats

  • 19 posts
  • 7 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 3 months ago by slochar
  • No one calls this topic a favorite

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#1 4 months ago

I have an Indiana Jones that recently started having a reset issue when both flippers are pressed. I first started with all of the typical reset fixes, even going to the extent of swapping out the MPU board from another working game. I've come to believe the issue resides within the flipper circuits.

When I check the end of stroke switches for continuity with the game off, I get an open circuit for each side. This seems correct. And when you close the switch I get continuity, which also seems correct. However when I do this with the game on, and in the attract mode, I get the same thing for the left side, but I get a closed circuit on the right side (without closing the switch). I would expect both side to behave the same, but I'm not sure which side is normal and which side is acting up. It appears each leg of EOS switch on the right side is grounded with the game on, while only one side of the EOS switch is grounded on the left side.

Any thoughts which is correct? And if this could be contributing to my reset issue?
(During game play the flippers operate fine until the reset of course)

#2 4 months ago

I'd ignore the EOS switches. The game will compensate for them if not working.

Your problem lies elsewhere.

LTG : )

#3 4 months ago

I would start on BR1 and BR2 and swap the caps while your in there personally.

#4 4 months ago

Any chance the bridge on the fliptronics board could be a problem?

#5 4 months ago
Quoted from TZ:

Any chance the bridge on the fliptronics board could be a problem?

No.

Go through the Pinwiki checklist - https://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Williams_WPC#Game_resets

LTG : )

#6 4 months ago

I will double check the checklist as you suggested. However I have already replaced the MPU with a working unit from another game.
Thanks for the feedback.

#7 4 months ago

Do you mean driver board ? If so then go over the other possibilities.

Might as well check that the flipper diodes are on tight.

LTG : )

#8 4 months ago

Sorry, yes the driver board was replaced. I will checkout the other items.

#9 4 months ago
Quoted from TZ:

Sorry, yes the driver board was replaced. I will checkout the other items.

Check your connectors, especially j101. That's been the issue (in my experience) about 95% of the time. It is rarely something on the board (again, my experience) unless it's the male header pins.

#10 4 months ago
Quoted from TZ:

However when I do this with the game on, and in the attract mode, I get the same thing for the left side, but I get a closed circuit on the right side (without closing the switch). I would expect both side to behave the same, but I'm not sure which side is normal and which side is acting up.

You cannot use a DMM to check continuity when the power is on as any voltage on the circuit will affect your readings. What happens in test functions?

#11 4 months ago

Are there diodes on the EOS switches? If so check them too.

#12 4 months ago

The flippers work as they should in the test mode.

#13 4 months ago
Quoted from TZ:

The flippers work as they should in the test mode.

Do the EOS switches work correctly in switch test?

#14 4 months ago
Quoted from Bakerman:

Do the EOS switches work correctly in switch test?

Quoted from Bakerman:

Do the EOS switches work correctly in switch test?

Yes, they do.

#15 4 months ago
Quoted from Bakerman:

Are there diodes on the EOS switches?

No, and forget them. They aren't dropping 5 volts to the CPU.

LTG : )

#16 3 months ago
Quoted from LTG:

No, and forget them. They aren't dropping 5 volts to the CPU.

LTG : )

Just that one or twice I have seen faulty diodes on the coils or switches on the EOS stack allow large EMF voltages up the switch matrix cabling causing a CPU reset or points being awarded when the flippers are activated.

#17 3 months ago

UPDATE:
So I think I have made some progress following the steps in the Pinwiki for WPC resets (as suggested by LTG).
Only played a handful of games so far but....

A) Replaced J101 connector and pins to try and increase voltage at TP2. Removed the IDC connector and went to the trifuricon pins (very difficult with the double wires). Unfortunately this had no affect, voltage remained at 5.00VDC

B) Only replaced pins at J114 connector. I would like to replace that IDC connector too, but think it would best to replace the Z connector at the same time and will do that when I have time. Just replacing the pins on the board helped with the voltage drop between the driver board and the MPU board. I was seeing 4.90VDC on the MPU (at pin 32), now I'm seeing 4.98VDC.

Thanks for all of your suggestions!

#18 3 months ago
Quoted from TZ:

UPDATE:
So I think I have made some progress following the steps in the Pinwiki for WPC resets (as suggested by LTG).
Only played a handful of games so far but....
A) Replaced J101 connector and pins to try and increase voltage at TP2. Removed the IDC connector and went to the trifuricon pins (very difficult with the double wires). Unfortunately this had no affect, voltage remained at 5.00VDC
B) Only replaced pins at J114 connector. I would like to replace that IDC connector too, but think it would best to replace the Z connector at the same time and will do that when I have time. Just replacing the pins on the board helped with the voltage drop between the driver board and the MPU board. I was seeing 4.90VDC on the MPU (at pin 32), now I'm seeing 4.98VDC.
Thanks for all of your suggestions!

I was having reset problems, too, and this also seemed to have the greatest impact on my game.

Re-seating connectors worked as a temporary fix, showing it was a connection issue. The board and pins are fairly new (Rottendog), but I replaced J114 from IDC to Molex trifurcon and the results were immediate and, so far, permanent.

#19 3 months ago

Any game I have that has the Z connector I get rid of. Straight wires for me, soldered and heat shrunk.

It's only there for convenience of assembly at the factory when they added the 8 driver board (or whatever extra board those games have)

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