Quoted from xfassa:

This thread motivated me to put on my IJ RADCALS. Thanks for the motivation!
Yes, the coindoor artwork was pre-drilled (just for the start and super ball buttons). If you align the side art and coindoor, most likely you will have some misalignment with those buttons (see pic). As a result, I decided to flush mount the buttons (opposed to the original recessed mount) so I could hide the misalignment with some 3d printed washers. I agree, probably best not to have the RADCALS pre-drilled at the factory. All that said, these things look amazing. No more faded decals for me.
For reference, here are some Getaway decals I got a few years ago from a different supplier. Sure, I wish the shifter was centered in the red box like the original. However, I know it is probably impossible to get all artwork to match every cabinet perfectly. I still believe we should alert suppliers when improvement opportunities arise. Just realize, at the end of the day, it is their choice whether or not to improve the product (which I hope they all do). We all get to make choices in life, we just need to be prepared to live with the outcomes of those choices.
Anyway, good conversation, thanks to all. Keep safe!
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Quoted from paynemic:

I like those washers. It’s that all it took to mount like that? I’d love to buy a couple if that’s an option.

Quoted from xfassa:

All RADCALS looked great until the last piece (left side of cabinet). After installing, it was obvious that the old/new decals were in different spots. My wife took one look and said "no way you are going to be able to live with that). LOL.

Quoted from PinMonk:

Isn't there a basecoat of white on these? If it's there, is it just not thick enough to prevent the original cabinet art from bleeding through? I'm surprised at the transparency issue - that sucks!

Quoted from xfassa:

Some quick install tips. Note, I am far from an expert at installing but figured I would share my experience.
1) Prep cabinet. Fix areas that RADCAL can't cover up (corners, edges, etc). Clean cabinet with Isopropyl Alcohol
2) Align RADCAL and clamp in place (see pics)
3) Shine light through holes from the backside and trace (see pics)
4) Cut out squares with sharp utility knife, cut out holes with drill or dremel (see pic of cutting tool that worked well for me)
5) Place RADCAL back on machine but use the bolts, buttons, etc to hold in place making sure everything fits properly
6) Remove RADCAL and all hardware after final fit-up
7) Peel back ~3" of backing paper and fold downward (so you can grab from underneath when pulling off remainder of backing paper)
8) Align RADCAL (using bolts, buttons, siderails, etc that are at the top of the head or cabinet) and stick the top 3" of the radical
9) Slowly pull down on the backing paper and carefully stick the remainder of the RADCAL to the cabinet
10) Remove protective film from front of RADCAL
11) Install all remaining hardware (make sure to square up carriage bolts to square cutouts you made earlier for easier installation)
12) Admire your work.
There is a good chance I am missing a step or recommending a practice others disagree with. However, this is just what I did to give folks an idea on how to install. I am sure others will have other suggestions or improve upon these steps. That's the great part of Pinside, we all learn together.
If you have any questions or need any additional pics, please let me know. Good Luck!!!
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Quoted from xfassa:

Just finished installing the IJ RADCALS and thought I would share a few thoughts/observations. Please note, I did very little cabinet prep other than cleaning and fixing corners. I did NOT remove or paint over the old decals or fix minor blemishes (dings, scratches, etc).
1) Amazing product. Not perfect but I just can't see every using a standard decal ever again. The RADCALS are very robust (easy to move, cut, store, whatever) and relatively simple to install without all the fuss (fixing every minor blemish, etc).
2) Coindoor alignment. My coindoor buttons did not align perfectly. After some minor modifications, it looks pretty good (see pics in previous posting). Update: Per Mirco's post, it sounds like future products will not have pre-drilled holes (good call Mirco).
3) Transparency. I heard the rumors, but being stubborn, I needed to see for myself. All RADCALS looked great until the last piece (left side of cabinet). After installing, it was obvious that the old/new decals were in different spots. My wife took one look and said "no way you are going to be able to live with that). LOL. Anyway, check out the pics, you have been warned.
Despite some bumps in the road, I am very pleased with this product. I feel this product is a quantum leap forward when it comes to replacing artwork. Even at the higher price point, I still believe it is worth it when you consider the time savings. Seriously, the cabinet did not come off my cart during the install. Is there room for improvement, absolutely. Not pre-drilling the holes is a step in the right direction. If the transparency issue can be resolved (other than painting the cabinet), RADCALS would be darn near perfect. I really had a great time during the installation and I learned a lot. I will share some install tips soon. If anyone has any questions, don't hesitate to ask. Stay safe! [quoted image][quoted image]

Quoted from Ricochet:

The white base coat is the substrate that is glued to the cabinet for the silkscreen process, not paint. It’s like thin a vinyl material. You really can’t take just the screened color off 100% cleanly. If you are careful you can probably get it good enough though. It will peel if you heat it or sand aggressively.
——-
Wood
——-
Glue
——-
Vinyl
——-
Silkscreen

Quoted from PinMonk:

No, no, I meant on the Radcals. Don't they have a white base then the rest printed up over that (or the reverse)?

Quoted from High_End_Pins:

Discovered a problem with the IJ POA playfields.
They are not drilled correctly for the plastic rails.
You will have to drill eight new holes to use it.
Not sure quite yet how the extra incorrect holes will impact things.
Probably going to be fine but they do run really close to switches.
Hard to understand how this did not get noticed.

Quoted from High_End_Pins:

Discovered a problem with the IJ POA playfields.
They are not drilled correctly for the plastic rails.
You will have to drill eight new holes to use it.
Not sure quite yet how the extra incorrect holes will impact things.
Probably going to be fine but they do run really close to switches.
Hard to understand how this did not get noticed.
This could possibly be run off the metal rail (sample) version but I don’t have one in hand to verify although I have done them in the past and don’t remember much difference between the two.
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Quoted from Davi:

That's for sample pins.
Details here:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/indy-restoration-its-not-the-years-honey-its-the-mileage-/page/10#post-5541644

Quoted from xfassa:

Some quick install tips. Note, I am far from an expert at installing but figured I would share my experience.

1) Prep cabinet. Fix areas that RADCAL can't cover up (corners, edges, etc). Clean cabinet with Isopropyl Alcohol
2) Align RADCAL and clamp in place (see pics)
3) Shine light through holes from the backside and trace (see pics)
4) Cut out squares with sharp utility knife, cut out holes with drill or dremel (see pic of cutting tool that worked well for me)
5) Place RADCAL back on machine but use the bolts, buttons, etc to hold in place making sure everything fits properly
6) Remove RADCAL and all hardware after final fit-up
7) Peel back ~3" of backing paper and fold downward (so you can grab from underneath when pulling off remainder of backing paper)
8) Align RADCAL (using bolts, buttons, siderails, etc that are at the top of the head or cabinet) and stick the top 3" of the radical
9) Slowly pull down on the backing paper and carefully stick the remainder of the RADCAL to the cabinet
10) Remove protective film from front of RADCAL
11) Install all remaining hardware (make sure to square up carriage bolts to square cutouts you made earlier for easier installation)
12) Admire your work.

Quoted from plovis:

If anyone has any thoughts about a way to cover up the jacked up side I'd love to hear it.
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Quoted from xfassa:

I can 3D print some yellow washers

Quoted from plovis:

I'd certainly be interested to give it a try. Be more than happy to toss some cash your way for them.

Quoted from xfassa:

Yup, I will need 2 cents to cover my filament costs.
Just PM me your address and I will get them sent out. I'm thinking yellow will look good.
Edit: here is a quick and dirty 3D print in yellow to give you an idea. [quoted image]

Quoted from Turtlepower169:

Just finished up my radcal install.
I had the start button alignment issues but Micro sent me an uncut replacement.
For button holes I used a drill bit. Then step bit. Finished with a dremel drum sander for a perfect circle.
Used the wet method and glad I did. Had a huge air bubble that was impossible to work out. Was able to pull the decal back off without losing any adhesive.
Hardest part was lining up the red/blue lines from the sides to the coin door.
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Quoted from Turtlepower169:

Just finished up my radcal install.
I had the start button alignment issues but Micro sent me an uncut replacement.
For button holes I used a drill bit. Then step bit. Finished with a dremel drum sander for a perfect circle.
Used the wet method and glad I did. Had a huge air bubble that was impossible to work out. Was able to pull the decal back off without losing any adhesive.
Hardest part was lining up the red/blue lines from the sides to the coin door.
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Quoted from underlord:

I see these go under the siderails. Beaut!

Quoted from PinMonk:

Looks great. Are you going to touch up the seams with black to make them less obvious at the corners?

Quoted from BurnDizzyBurn:

Is it just me or would anyone else prefer a more satin finish as opposed to the high gloss?

Quoted from Rum-Z:

I'm not a fan of high gloss. However, I think we're in the minority here.

Quoted from That_Pin_Dude:

I am not a fan of the gloss finish either. Having the decals below the side rails also leaves a small gap at the front of the rail where it curves.