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(Topic ID: 264039)

Indiana Jones regular and Glitter playfields, RADCALS, Decals


By Highclasspinball

7 months ago



Topic Stats

  • 82 posts
  • 33 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 67 days ago by BurnDizzyBurn
  • Topic is favorited by 19 Pinsiders

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There are 82 posts in this topic. You are on page 2 of 2.
#51 3 months ago
Quoted from xfassa:

This thread motivated me to put on my IJ RADCALS. Thanks for the motivation!
Yes, the coindoor artwork was pre-drilled (just for the start and super ball buttons). If you align the side art and coindoor, most likely you will have some misalignment with those buttons (see pic). As a result, I decided to flush mount the buttons (opposed to the original recessed mount) so I could hide the misalignment with some 3d printed washers. I agree, probably best not to have the RADCALS pre-drilled at the factory. All that said, these things look amazing. No more faded decals for me.
For reference, here are some Getaway decals I got a few years ago from a different supplier. Sure, I wish the shifter was centered in the red box like the original. However, I know it is probably impossible to get all artwork to match every cabinet perfectly. I still believe we should alert suppliers when improvement opportunities arise. Just realize, at the end of the day, it is their choice whether or not to improve the product (which I hope they all do). We all get to make choices in life, we just need to be prepared to live with the outcomes of those choices.
Anyway, good conversation, thanks to all. Keep safe!
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

I like those washers. It’s that all it took to mount like that? I’d love to buy a couple if that’s an option.

#52 3 months ago
Quoted from paynemic:

I like those washers. It’s that all it took to mount like that? I’d love to buy a couple if that’s an option.

Ha! Just PM your address and I will send them to you for free. Just remember, this method has the buttons sticking out opposed to recessed into the cabinet. Honestly, I kind of like the look of it this way.

#53 3 months ago

Just finished installing the IJ RADCALS and thought I would share a few thoughts/observations. Please note, I did very little cabinet prep other than cleaning and fixing corners. I did NOT remove or paint over the old decals or fix minor blemishes (dings, scratches, etc).

1) Amazing product. Not perfect but I just can't see every using a standard decal ever again. The RADCALS are very robust (easy to move, cut, store, whatever) and relatively simple to install without all the fuss (fixing every minor blemish, etc).

2) Coindoor alignment. My coindoor buttons did not align perfectly. After some minor modifications, it looks pretty good (see pics in previous posting). Update: Per Mirco's post, it sounds like future products will not have pre-drilled holes (good call Mirco).

3) Transparency. I heard the rumors, but being stubborn, I needed to see for myself. All RADCALS looked great until the last piece (left side of cabinet). After installing, it was obvious that the old/new decals were in different spots. My wife took one look and said "no way you are going to be able to live with that). LOL. Anyway, check out the pics, you have been warned.

Despite some bumps in the road, I am very pleased with this product. I feel this product is a quantum leap forward when it comes to replacing artwork. Even at the higher price point, I still believe it is worth it when you consider the time savings. Seriously, the cabinet did not come off my cart during the install. Is there room for improvement, absolutely. Not pre-drilling the holes is a step in the right direction. If the transparency issue can be resolved (other than painting the cabinet), RADCALS would be darn near perfect. I really had a great time during the installation and I learned a lot. I will share some install tips soon. If anyone has any questions, don't hesitate to ask. Stay safe!

20200704_144228 (resized).jpg20200704_144352 (resized).jpg
#54 3 months ago

Some quick install tips. Note, I am far from an expert at installing but figured I would share my experience.

1) Prep cabinet. Fix areas that RADCAL can't cover up (corners, edges, etc). Clean cabinet with Isopropyl Alcohol
2) Align RADCAL and clamp in place (see pics)
3) Shine light through holes from the backside and trace (see pics)
4) Cut out squares with sharp utility knife, cut out holes with drill or dremel (see pic of cutting tool that worked well for me)
5) Place RADCAL back on machine but use the bolts, buttons, etc to hold in place making sure everything fits properly
6) Remove RADCAL and all hardware after final fit-up
7) Peel back ~3" of backing paper and fold downward (so you can grab from underneath when pulling off remainder of backing paper)
8) Align RADCAL (using bolts, buttons, siderails, etc that are at the top of the head or cabinet) and stick the top 3" of the radical
9) Slowly pull down on the backing paper and carefully stick the remainder of the RADCAL to the cabinet
10) Remove protective film from front of RADCAL
11) Install all remaining hardware (make sure to square up carriage bolts to square cutouts you made earlier for easier installation)
12) Admire your work.

There is a good chance I am missing a step or recommending a practice others disagree with. However, this is just what I did to give folks an idea on how to install. I am sure others will have other suggestions or improve upon these steps. That's the great part of Pinside, we all learn together.

If you have any questions or need any additional pics, please let me know. Good Luck!!!
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#55 3 months ago
Quoted from xfassa:

All RADCALS looked great until the last piece (left side of cabinet). After installing, it was obvious that the old/new decals were in different spots. My wife took one look and said "no way you are going to be able to live with that). LOL.

Isn't there a basecoat of white on these? If it's there, is it just not thick enough to prevent the original cabinet art from bleeding through? I'm surprised at the transparency issue - that sucks!

#56 3 months ago
Quoted from vireland:

Isn't there a basecoat of white on these? If it's there, is it just not thick enough to prevent the original cabinet art from bleeding through? I'm surprised at the transparency issue - that sucks!

The white base coat is the substrate that is glued to the cabinet for the silkscreen process, not paint. It’s like thin a vinyl material. You really can’t take just the screened color off 100% cleanly. If you are careful you can probably get it good enough though. It will peel if you heat it or sand aggressively.

——-
Wood
——-
Glue
——-
Vinyl
——-
Silkscreen

#57 3 months ago
Quoted from xfassa:

Some quick install tips. Note, I am far from an expert at installing but figured I would share my experience.
1) Prep cabinet. Fix areas that RADCAL can't cover up (corners, edges, etc). Clean cabinet with Isopropyl Alcohol
2) Align RADCAL and clamp in place (see pics)
3) Shine light through holes from the backside and trace (see pics)
4) Cut out squares with sharp utility knife, cut out holes with drill or dremel (see pic of cutting tool that worked well for me)
5) Place RADCAL back on machine but use the bolts, buttons, etc to hold in place making sure everything fits properly
6) Remove RADCAL and all hardware after final fit-up
7) Peel back ~3" of backing paper and fold downward (so you can grab from underneath when pulling off remainder of backing paper)
8) Align RADCAL (using bolts, buttons, siderails, etc that are at the top of the head or cabinet) and stick the top 3" of the radical
9) Slowly pull down on the backing paper and carefully stick the remainder of the RADCAL to the cabinet
10) Remove protective film from front of RADCAL
11) Install all remaining hardware (make sure to square up carriage bolts to square cutouts you made earlier for easier installation)
12) Admire your work.
There is a good chance I am missing a step or recommending a practice others disagree with. However, this is just what I did to give folks an idea on how to install. I am sure others will have other suggestions or improve upon these steps. That's the great part of Pinside, we all learn together.
If you have any questions or need any additional pics, please let me know. Good Luck!!!
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Quoted from xfassa:

Just finished installing the IJ RADCALS and thought I would share a few thoughts/observations. Please note, I did very little cabinet prep other than cleaning and fixing corners. I did NOT remove or paint over the old decals or fix minor blemishes (dings, scratches, etc).
1) Amazing product. Not perfect but I just can't see every using a standard decal ever again. The RADCALS are very robust (easy to move, cut, store, whatever) and relatively simple to install without all the fuss (fixing every minor blemish, etc).
2) Coindoor alignment. My coindoor buttons did not align perfectly. After some minor modifications, it looks pretty good (see pics in previous posting). Update: Per Mirco's post, it sounds like future products will not have pre-drilled holes (good call Mirco).
3) Transparency. I heard the rumors, but being stubborn, I needed to see for myself. All RADCALS looked great until the last piece (left side of cabinet). After installing, it was obvious that the old/new decals were in different spots. My wife took one look and said "no way you are going to be able to live with that). LOL. Anyway, check out the pics, you have been warned.
Despite some bumps in the road, I am very pleased with this product. I feel this product is a quantum leap forward when it comes to replacing artwork. Even at the higher price point, I still believe it is worth it when you consider the time savings. Seriously, the cabinet did not come off my cart during the install. Is there room for improvement, absolutely. Not pre-drilling the holes is a step in the right direction. If the transparency issue can be resolved (other than painting the cabinet), RADCALS would be darn near perfect. I really had a great time during the installation and I learned a lot. I will share some install tips soon. If anyone has any questions, don't hesitate to ask. Stay safe! [quoted image][quoted image]

Now that you mention it, that’s exactly where I noticed my problems. Mine looked very similar to yours as I was applying. I aborted and pulled them back off (they weren’t fully pressed down) and sanded the original decals down to white (not all the way to wood).

#58 3 months ago
Quoted from Ricochet:

The white base coat is the substrate that is glued to the cabinet for the silkscreen process, not paint. It’s like thin a vinyl material. You really can’t take just the screened color off 100% cleanly. If you are careful you can probably get it good enough though. It will peel if you heat it or sand aggressively.
——-
Wood
——-
Glue
——-
Vinyl
——-
Silkscreen

No, no, I meant on the Radcals. Don't they have a white base then the rest printed up over that (or the reverse)?

#59 3 months ago
Quoted from vireland:

No, no, I meant on the Radcals. Don't they have a white base then the rest printed up over that (or the reverse)?

Ahh gotchya.

#60 3 months ago

It’ll always be in the collective interest to get rid of the original art not just for bleed through but also for a solid base of adhesion. Nothing more fun than corner lifting after someone catches it with a fingernail or clothing.

Great tips gang! IJ is third in que for my restoration projects.

#61 3 months ago

Discovered a problem with the IJ POA playfields.
They are not drilled correctly for the plastic rails.
You will have to drill eight new holes to use it.
Not sure quite yet how the extra incorrect holes will impact things.
Probably going to be fine but they do run really close to switches.
Hard to understand how this did not get noticed.
This could possibly be run off the metal rail (sample) version but I don’t have one in hand to verify although I have done them in the past and don’t remember much difference between the two.

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#62 3 months ago
Quoted from High_End_Pins:

Discovered a problem with the IJ POA playfields.
They are not drilled correctly for the plastic rails.
You will have to drill eight new holes to use it.
Not sure quite yet how the extra incorrect holes will impact things.
Probably going to be fine but they do run really close to switches.
Hard to understand how this did not get noticed.

Wow, art's a little different, too.

This is another reason Mirco letting the community look at his work before he runs hundreds of them is a good idea.

#63 3 months ago
Quoted from High_End_Pins:

Discovered a problem with the IJ POA playfields.
They are not drilled correctly for the plastic rails.
You will have to drill eight new holes to use it.
Not sure quite yet how the extra incorrect holes will impact things.
Probably going to be fine but they do run really close to switches.
Hard to understand how this did not get noticed.
This could possibly be run off the metal rail (sample) version but I don’t have one in hand to verify although I have done them in the past and don’t remember much difference between the two.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

That's for sample pins.
Details here:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/indy-restoration-its-not-the-years-honey-its-the-mileage-/page/10#post-5541644

#64 3 months ago

Cool. I was just about to say that after looking at my sample IJ restorations it is definitely the sample version.
Not sure how I got three sample POAs instead of the production version since I wasn’t offered a choice but these work fine if you don’t mind drilling. If not best to exchange it for the one you actually need.

image (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpg
#65 3 months ago
Quoted from xfassa:

Some quick install tips. Note, I am far from an expert at installing but figured I would share my experience.

1) Prep cabinet. Fix areas that RADCAL can't cover up (corners, edges, etc). Clean cabinet with Isopropyl Alcohol
2) Align RADCAL and clamp in place (see pics)
3) Shine light through holes from the backside and trace (see pics)
4) Cut out squares with sharp utility knife, cut out holes with drill or dremel (see pic of cutting tool that worked well for me)
5) Place RADCAL back on machine but use the bolts, buttons, etc to hold in place making sure everything fits properly
6) Remove RADCAL and all hardware after final fit-up
7) Peel back ~3" of backing paper and fold downward (so you can grab from underneath when pulling off remainder of backing paper)
8) Align RADCAL (using bolts, buttons, siderails, etc that are at the top of the head or cabinet) and stick the top 3" of the radical
9) Slowly pull down on the backing paper and carefully stick the remainder of the RADCAL to the cabinet
10) Remove protective film from front of RADCAL
11) Install all remaining hardware (make sure to square up carriage bolts to square cutouts you made earlier for easier installation)
12) Admire your work.

Great tips, I just applied my radcals this weekend and I wish I had seen these before I started. I also had seen rumors that the old artwork could be visible which just seemed impossible to me given how thick these things are, but I did apply a coat of paint first and after seeing your issue I'm glad that I did. I had to trim about 1-2 mm from the edge of the front radcal, but otherwise the fit was really pretty good. The artwork is slightly misaligned between the front and right side, but nothing I can't live with. Also, instead of trying to square off all the holes for the carriage bolts I just drilled a hole roughly the diameter of the bolt and then used a nut driver to pull the bolt flush from the inside. I was cautious with the first one about warping the area right around the hole, but it actually worked great. Very satisfied with the results, these things have nearly a mirror finish.

One thing I really wish I had seen was the use of a drill or dremmel for the flipper buttons. That is one area where you have a very small margin for error given the thin lip around the buttons. Tried to cut the first side by hand with a razor blade and jacked it up, see the pic to see what I mean. Used a grinding bit with my drill on the other side and it worked great. If anyone has any thoughts about a way to cover up the jacked up side I'd love to hear it. Anyway, other than that dumbass move everything went really well and I think they look awesome.

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#66 3 months ago
Quoted from plovis:

If anyone has any thoughts about a way to cover up the jacked up side I'd love to hear it.
[quoted image][quoted image]

If you want, I can 3D print some yellow washers to cover up the exposed area. Similar to how I covered up the misaligned holes for my my start buttons (see previous posts).

#67 3 months ago
Quoted from xfassa:

I can 3D print some yellow washers

I'd certainly be interested to give it a try. Be more than happy to toss some cash your way for them.

#68 3 months ago
Quoted from plovis:

I'd certainly be interested to give it a try. Be more than happy to toss some cash your way for them.

Yup, I will need 2 cents to cover my filament costs.

Just PM me your address and I will get them sent out. I'm thinking yellow will look good.

Edit: here is a quick and dirty 3D print in yellow to give you an idea.

20200706_202608_001 (resized).jpg
#69 3 months ago
Quoted from xfassa:

Yup, I will need 2 cents to cover my filament costs.
Just PM me your address and I will get them sent out. I'm thinking yellow will look good.
Edit: here is a quick and dirty 3D print in yellow to give you an idea. [quoted image]

Thanks!

#70 3 months ago
Quoted from plovis:

Great tips, I just applied my radcals this weekend and I wish I had seen these before I started. I also had seen rumors that the old artwork could be visible which just seemed impossible to me given how thick these things are, but I did apply a coat of paint first and after seeing your issue I'm glad that I did. I had to trim about 1-2 mm from the edge of the front radcal, but otherwise the fit was really pretty good. The artwork is slightly misaligned between the front and right side, but nothing I can't live with. Also, instead of trying to square off all the holes for the carriage bolts I just drilled a hole roughly the diameter of the bolt and then used a nut driver to pull the bolt flush from the inside. I was cautious with the first one about warping the area right around the hole, but it actually worked great. Very satisfied with the results, these things have nearly a mirror finish.
One thing I really wish I had seen was the use of a drill or dremmel for the flipper buttons. That is one area where you have a very small margin for error given the thin lip around the buttons. Tried to cut the first side by hand with a razor blade and jacked it up, see the pic to see what I mean. Used a grinding bit with my drill on the other side and it worked great. If anyone has any thoughts about a way to cover up the jacked up side I'd love to hear it. Anyway, other than that dumbass move everything went really well and I think they look awesome.
[quoted image][quoted image]

I know right? plovis - Only an idiot would jack up something like that. Like big idiot rhettdr for example...

#71 3 months ago

Just wanted to send out a note of appreciation to xfassa, for going out of his way to send these washers to cover some flipper button cutting errors following my radcal installation last weekeend. Huge improvement, and I can't send enough thanks.

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#72 3 months ago

Looks great! Glad it worked out.

3 weeks later
#73 80 days ago

Just finished up my radcal install.

I had the start button alignment issues but Micro sent me an uncut replacement.

For button holes I used a drill bit. Then step bit. Finished with a dremel drum sander for a perfect circle.

Used the wet method and glad I did. Had a huge air bubble that was impossible to work out. Was able to pull the decal back off without losing any adhesive.

Hardest part was lining up the red/blue lines from the sides to the coin door.

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#74 80 days ago
Quoted from Turtlepower169:

Just finished up my radcal install.
I had the start button alignment issues but Micro sent me an uncut replacement.
For button holes I used a drill bit. Then step bit. Finished with a dremel drum sander for a perfect circle.
Used the wet method and glad I did. Had a huge air bubble that was impossible to work out. Was able to pull the decal back off without losing any adhesive.
Hardest part was lining up the red/blue lines from the sides to the coin door.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Looks great. Are you going to touch up the seams with black to make them less obvious at the corners?

#75 80 days ago
Quoted from Turtlepower169:

Just finished up my radcal install.
I had the start button alignment issues but Micro sent me an uncut replacement.
For button holes I used a drill bit. Then step bit. Finished with a dremel drum sander for a perfect circle.
Used the wet method and glad I did. Had a huge air bubble that was impossible to work out. Was able to pull the decal back off without losing any adhesive.
Hardest part was lining up the red/blue lines from the sides to the coin door.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Looks great! Nice work. What cabinet prep did you do?

#76 78 days ago

I see these go under the siderails. Beaut!

#77 75 days ago

Well done turtlepower169 looks great and thanks for sharing your experience and pics

Quoted from underlord:

I see these go under the siderails. Beaut!

I was going to comment that they don't go under (as in behind) the rails they go below ... but then realised that's what you meant by under LOL. Yes it is one advantage if you already have nice rails, you don't need to remove them to apply the radcals

Radcal (resized).JPG
1 week later
#78 69 days ago
Quoted from vireland:

Looks great. Are you going to touch up the seams with black to make them less obvious at the corners?

The white in the seams is the fiberglass dust from sanding out the button holes. I may dig it out or hit it with a sharpie. Not sure yet.

#79 68 days ago

Is it just me or would anyone else prefer a more satin finish as opposed to the high gloss? I’d also rather they went under the side rail as opposed to butting up to it. What are the chances highclasspinball ?

#80 68 days ago
Quoted from BurnDizzyBurn:

Is it just me or would anyone else prefer a more satin finish as opposed to the high gloss?

I'm not a fan of high gloss. However, I think we're in the minority here.

#81 67 days ago
Quoted from Rum-Z:

I'm not a fan of high gloss. However, I think we're in the minority here.

I am not a fan of the gloss finish either. Having the decals below the side rails also leaves a small gap at the front of the rail where it curves.

#82 67 days ago
Quoted from That_Pin_Dude:

I am not a fan of the gloss finish either. Having the decals below the side rails also leaves a small gap at the front of the rail where it curves.

That’s exactly my bug bare with these... I’ve similar feelings about the leg cut outs.. or am I going too far?

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