(Topic ID: 264039)

Indiana Jones regular and Glitter playfields, RADCALS, Decals

By Highclasspinball

4 years ago


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There are 82 posts in this topic. You are on page 1 of 2.
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#1 4 years ago

Hi,

finally Indiana Jones playfield, Radcals and decals are ready!

I have the following parts available:

The playfield artwork uses original WMS screens, I removed the Barcodearea.
Playfield set in regular and GLITTER version.
Pricing regular 999 USD shipped, GLITTER 1099 USD shipped.

The cabinet artwork is completely recreated as the original screens have bad quality halftones. This is fixed and the result is a perfect color fade. All colors used are original pantone...

Radcals IJ: 369 USD shipped.
Regular cabinet decals - due to the process the clearcoat in the surface contains some dust spots, once installed probably not visible, please see detailed pics - 249 USD shipped.

Package deals:
Any Radcals are 249USD each set as combo with at least one playfield of any title
Two playfields shipped at the same time, 20 USD off each,
three playfields shipped at the same time 30 USD off each.
Regular IJ decals are 199 USD as combo with a playfield.

Shipping to Australia is extra 80 USD.

EU prices - shipped:
IJ playfield 1050,50 Euro
IJ Glitter playfield set: 1150,50 Euro
Radcals 379,50 Euro
Decals 259,50 Euro

Combo prices Radcals 259 Euro
Combo decals with playfield 219 Euro

Please contact me with any questions!

Regards,
Mirco

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#2 4 years ago

Gltter version:

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#4 4 years ago

Order placed for Radcals, thanks

#5 4 years ago

Cool !
Nice work

#6 4 years ago

Would it be possible to show the glittered inserts lit up in a dark room?

#7 4 years ago

It is really difficult to capture the glitter effect on a picture. I have taken a video. Will upload it shortly...

Regards,
Mirco

#8 4 years ago

How do you trim the radcals? Like where the sides meet the front of the cab? They look like they are a little hard to cut? Also, on the regular decals you mention dust particles? Could not see anything in the pics?

#9 4 years ago
Quoted from Highclasspinball:

It is really difficult to capture the glitter effect on a picture. I have taken a video. Will upload it shortly...
Regards,
Mirco

Thanks!

Also, What is this? Glitter? Is this a radcal or regular? I’m having a hard time seeing the differences in the pictures.

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#10 4 years ago

The regular decals are printed on my flatbed printer as well as the radcals. But while the radcals do not use varnish the decals are getting 3 layers of varnish at the end. But to get them glossy the second layer stays wet till 3rd is applied. In this time dust out of the room can fall on the decal. It is hard to see, but it is there and I don't want to get issues due to that I did not tell it. I'm working on a solution but the only chance is to get the driver modified which is probably impossible...

Regards,
Mirco

#11 4 years ago

This is just the back paper. Will be removed once you apply it.

#12 4 years ago

Got mine!

#13 4 years ago

Was the original side art screen printed?

#14 4 years ago

Did you make the video?

#15 4 years ago

Original art was screen printed, but with the right printer and correct setup you will not be able to tell the difference.

here is the video:

#16 4 years ago

Whats the procedure for cutting the rad cals for flipper buttons, etc...? Can u cut with an exacto knife?

#17 4 years ago

Are the holes true and correct to the original playfield?

#18 4 years ago

Yes, of course. Original WMS CAD file was used.

Regards,
Mirco

#19 4 years ago

Thanks Mirco, very nice indeed!

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-1
#20 4 years ago

Wow, that looks great. Count me in.

#21 4 years ago

Are there installed photos of Radcals? Hard to decide if it's what I want if I can't see the finished product.

So far I'm leaning towards traditional decals. Not sure I like the idea of a decal that stops at the edge of the side rails and legs

#22 4 years ago

I’m looking for info in best practices for drilling holes for buttons and bolts. Countersinking isn’t an option for me.

#23 4 years ago

Do the start button holes always align perfectly?

#24 4 years ago

I recommend something like a dremel milling tool to cut flipper bottom holes for example. I used the same machine to countersink the cabinet screws...

Regards,
Mirco

#25 4 years ago
Quoted from paynemic:

I’m looking for info in best practices for drilling holes for buttons and bolts. Countersinking isn’t an option for me.

I posted YouTube videos of my journey, granted they are on a taxi, here is part one, the other parts are on my YouTube channel.. just takes you through my thought process.. cutting, prep, corners ..etc

3 months later
#26 4 years ago
Quoted from Highclasspinball:

The playfield artwork uses original WMS screens, I removed the Barcodearea.

This just came up in the HEP thread. I didn't realize how far off your repros were in the details of the art due to too-thick line tracing.

The playfields don't look like they are faithful to the original WMS screens. Willie looks like a vampire with pointed lips and too much red in her mouth. The lines on her face are too fat and long, which is a telltale sign of illustrator auto-trace without any hand-tuning. Look at how her too-thick and too long laugh line almost touches her too-fat nostril line in yours, and compare to the original art where they aren't even close.

Sallah also has problems related to too-fat black lines. I'm sure if I compared the whole playfield to stock, I'd find other issues of the same kind.

This will at least make potential buyers aware of the issues before they purchase.

Willie-Comparison.jpgWillie-Comparison.jpg

#27 4 years ago

As I stated before these are the original screens with lines and details in the way they were meant to be. Nothing is auto traced. We do never use that as it is not good enough for a playfield! If you are familiar to screen printing you will understand that over a short timeframe thin lines get smaller, thinner or vanish completely in screens unless you add special chemicals to prevent that. You see the original design in my print as it is captured directly from the screens. We all know first hand that wms has never cared of these details so all boards like your original were marked ok and put into a game. Honestly if that is a concern for you, I would suggest to keep your old playfield if that is so much better. It is not easy to create an artwork for a almost 30 year old game with tons of variations due to the old production method. So which original is a correct original?

Regards,
Mirco

#28 4 years ago
Quoted from Highclasspinball:

As I stated before these are the original screens with lines and details in the way they were meant to be. Nothing is auto traced. We do never use that as it is not good enough for a playfield! If you are familiar to screen printing you will understand that over a short timeframe thin lines get smaller, thinner or vanish completely in screens unless you add special chemicals to prevent that. You see the original design in my print as it is captured directly from the screens. We all know first hand that wms has never cared of these details so all boards like your original were marked ok and put into a game. Honestly if that is a concern for you, I would suggest to keep your old playfield if that is so much better. It is not easy to create an artwork for a almost 30 year old game with tons of variations due to the old production method. So which original is a correct original?
Regards,
Mirco

Really? What happened to the "Y" in Shorty on your non-glitter playfields, then? The lettering is all solid and correct on the WMS original, but yours has underlying colors well into the "Y" on yours.
Shorty-comparison (resized).jpgShorty-comparison (resized).jpg

The POINT is, if you just let the community (or some of your best customers if you want to keep it private) look these over BEFORE you made them, a lot of these errors could be caught and fixed so you'll get only the praise you crave when they're released. WMS might not have cared back in the 1990s, but playfields didn't cost $1100 back then, either. Easy to blow off a bunch of errors on a $100 playfield. A little harder to swallow at $1100. That's all. Customer care. Look into it.

#29 4 years ago
Quoted from PinMonk:

This just came up in the HEP thread. I didn't realize how far off your repros were in the details of the art due to too-thick line tracing.
The playfields don't look like they are faithful to the original WMS screens. Willie looks like a vampire with pointed lips and too much red in her mouth. The lines on her face are too fat and long, which is a telltale sign of illustrator auto-trace without any hand-tuning. Look at how her too-thick and too long laugh line almost touches her too-fat nostril line in yours, and compare to the original art where they aren't even close.
Sallah also has problems related to too-fat black lines. I'm sure if I compared the whole playfield to stock, I'd find other issues of the same kind.
This will at least make potential buyers aware of the issues before they purchase.
[quoted image]

Quoted from PinMonk:

Really? What happened to the "Y" in Shorty on your non-glitter playfields, then? The lettering is all solid and correct on the WMS original, but yours has underlying colors well into the "Y" on yours.
[quoted image]
The POINT is, if you just let the community (or some of your best customers if you want to keep it private) look these over BEFORE you made them, a lot of these errors could be caught and fixed so you'll get only the praise you crave when they're released. WMS might not have cared back in the 1990s, but playfields didn't cost $1100 back then, either. Easy to blow off a bunch of errors on a $100 playfield. A little harder to swallow at $1100. That's all. Customer care. Look into it.

First world problems in all their blazing glory. I agree with Micro, if you don't like it, keep your original pf.

QSS

#30 4 years ago
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#31 4 years ago
Quoted from PinMonk:

Really? What happened to the "Y" in Shorty on your non-glitter playfields, then? The lettering is all solid and correct on the WMS original, but yours has underlying colors well into the "Y" on yours.
[quoted image]
The POINT is, if you just let the community (or some of your best customers if you want to keep it private) look these over BEFORE you made them, a lot of these errors could be caught and fixed so you'll get only the praise you crave when they're released. WMS might not have cared back in the 1990s, but playfields didn't cost $1100 back then, either. Easy to blow off a bunch of errors on a $100 playfield. A little harder to swallow at $1100. That's all. Customer care. Look into it.

Nah, not a thing at $1100.

Pooling? Chipping? Hell yeah a thing. Not seeing any customer concerns there.

#32 4 years ago

Beautiful work. Now where do I find a machine to restore myself and use these products?

#33 4 years ago
Quoted from underlord:

Nah, not a thing at $1100.
Pooling? Chipping? Hell yeah a thing. Not seeing any customer concerns there.

Trading one failing for another is not succeeding.

#34 4 years ago
Quoted from QuickSilverShelby:

First world problems in all their blazing glory. I agree with Micro, if you don't like it, keep your original pf.
QSS

At least you agree they are problems. That's a start.

Of COURSE these are first world problems. But they shouldn't exist - he MADE these and could have put some more eyeballs on them before he committed them to wood and cleared them. But he didn't, and now he won't even acknowledge they're mistakes. The community wants to help him make his products as good as they can possibly be, but he keeps screwing it up by refusing help before it's too late. This is not the only playfield with issues he does.

#35 4 years ago

My WMS original has green in the letters S H R. I don't see how anyone could proof-view and compare with their WMS original because the WMS originals were screened and there will always be color overlap in different spots.

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#36 4 years ago
Quoted from Flipper_McGavin:

My WMS original has green in the letters S H R. I don't see how anyone could proof-view and compare with their WMS original because the WMS originals were screened and there will always be color overlap in different spots.
[quoted image]

Okay, yes, screening is an imperfect art, confirmed.

However, this is 2020 and these new playfields are not screened, they're digitally printed. So screening errors aren't possible as long as the art is checked before printing. Art is not getting checked by enough eyeballs here before printing to correct errors. That is the problem. The community is more than willing to help stop these problems before they are committed to ink, but the help is being refused, leading to flawed releases.

HEP also found problems with implementation of the radcals for Indy. Art doesn't line up with the sides, and because the holes are pre-drilled, it's impossible to fix after the fact.

#37 4 years ago
Quoted from PinMonk:

Trading one failing for another is not succeeding.

Pooling, chipping off pieces are not in the same failing. Minimizes the serious issue damage compared to artwork coloring.

Besides, I’d believe these artwork issues were in the original screens. W/B didn’t care back then.

#38 4 years ago
Quoted from PinMonk:

HEP also found problems with implementation of the radcals for Indy. Art doesn't line up with the sides, and because the holes are pre-drilled, it's impossible to fix after the fact.

?? Radcals aren’t predrilled. Line em up then cut your holes.

#39 4 years ago
Quoted from underlord:

Besides, I’d believe these artwork issues were in the original screens.

Trust me, they weren't. I am 100% sure about Willie's case.
We are talking about 5 minutes correction.
My contact also printed playfield. The playfield was nice, colorful, with few design issues. He never ever said "keep your old playfield if that is so much better", but did a correction then.

#40 4 years ago
Quoted from underlord:

?? Radcals aren’t predrilled. Line em up then cut your holes.

Really? Let me direct your attention to the picture from post #1 in the announcement of these being released. Those look like large pre-drilled holes in the art, no?

These are exactly the same as the ones HEP got. Because they're pre-drilled, it locks in the alignment of the radcal relative to the sides, so if the art doesn't match up (it doesn't) it cannot be fixed so the alignment is right. Check the HEP thread if you don't believe me.
Indy-Radcals_coin Door area (resized).jpgIndy-Radcals_coin Door area (resized).jpg

It's just irritating that what is obviously a premium product at a premium price doesn't have a premium attention to detail when so many are willing to help BEFORE it's too late and the mistakes are locked in, that's all.

#41 4 years ago

I think what’s irritating is the attitude. Would be so simple to say “hey, thanks for pointing this out, let me look into it for the future” vs being defensive all the time. That’s all.

And listen, when your customers are yelling at you, you still have customers. When they are quiet, then you’re in trouble. They’re still trying to help.

#42 4 years ago
Quoted from pintechev:

I think what’s irritating is the attitude. Would be so simple to say “hey, thanks for pointing this out, let me look into it for the future” vs being defensive all the time. That’s all.

Ha! Well that, too.

#43 4 years ago
Quoted from underlord:

?? Radcals aren’t predrilled. Line em up then cut your holes.

Wrong. The holes are precut and difficult to get lined up well. Satisfactory for me, but a true perfectionist would not find it acceptable.

#44 4 years ago
Quoted from paynemic:

Wrong. The holes are precut and difficult to get lined up well. Satisfactory for me, but a true perfectionist would not find it acceptable.

Well I checked my side radcals and they aren’t drilled. So are we talking just the front decal with issues here?

#45 4 years ago
Quoted from underlord:

Well I checked my side radcals and they aren’t drilled. So are we talking just the front decal with issues here?

Yes, that's why your "radcals aren't predrilled" comment was incorrect. The front one, which is critical for alignment on TWO SIDES is pre-drilled. It's a problem that didn't have to be. Another self-inflicted wound amongst many.

#46 4 years ago

Appreciate all the good dialogue on this topic. Lots of valid points. I went and took some pics of my original and Mirco repro playfields. I had to laugh as my original looks like the characters were out in the sun a bit too long. Anyway, I am pleased with both the Mirco playfied and radicals. No disagreement that they are not perfect but what the heck is in this crazy hobby. I appreciate all the vendors that make repro parts as it can't be an easy job (especially playfields). Without them, we would have very few options. Thanks Mirco! Thanks to all the detail oriented Pinsiders too! Hopefully, we can all learn and improve together.

Mirco IJ (resized).jpgMirco IJ (resized).jpgOriginal IJ (resized).jpgOriginal IJ (resized).jpg
#47 4 years ago
Quoted from xfassa:

Appreciate all the good dialogue on this topic. Lots of valid points. I went and took some pics of my original and Mirco repro playfields. I had to laugh as my original looks like the characters were out in the sun a bit too long. Anyway, I am pleased with both the Mirco playfied and radicals. No disagreement that they are not perfect but what the heck is in this crazy hobby. I appreciate all the vendors that make repro parts as it can't be an easy job (especially playfields). Without them, we would have very few options. Thanks Mirco! Thanks to all the detail oriented Pinsiders too! Hopefully, we can all learn and improve together. [quoted image][quoted image]

The darker flesh color level provides a lot more contrast. It looks like the whites of the eyes are also much lighter/less full on Marion and Willy with the Mirco compared to the original playfields.

#48 4 years ago

This thread motivated me to put on my IJ RADCALS. Thanks for the motivation!

Yes, the coindoor artwork was pre-drilled (just for the start and super ball buttons). If you align the side art and coindoor, most likely you will have some misalignment with those buttons (see pic). As a result, I decided to flush mount the buttons (opposed to the original recessed mount) so I could hide the misalignment with some 3d printed washers. I agree, probably best not to have the RADCALS pre-drilled at the factory. All that said, these things look amazing. No more faded decals for me.

For reference, here are some Getaway decals I got a few years ago from a different supplier. Sure, I wish the shifter was centered in the red box like the original. However, I know it is probably impossible to get all artwork to match every cabinet perfectly. I still believe we should alert suppliers when improvement opportunities arise. Just realize, at the end of the day, it is their choice whether or not to improve the product (which I hope they all do). We all get to make choices in life, we just need to be prepared to live with the outcomes of those choices.

Anyway, good conversation, thanks to all. Keep safe!

IJ Buttons as-is (resized).jpgIJ Buttons as-is (resized).jpgIJ Buttons to-be (resized).jpgIJ Buttons to-be (resized).jpgGetaway (resized).jpgGetaway (resized).jpg

#49 4 years ago

NOTE: I am still in the process of fitting up the decals. The scratches are in the protective film.

#50 4 years ago

Hi all,

There seem to be differences in the start button positions, as consequence I will not cut the button holes in any future ij cabinet radcals to avoid the problem. I'm sorry for the issues! They fit perfect on my two games...

Regards,
Mirco

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