Wow, very nice.

Order placed for Radcals, thanks

Cool !
Nice work

Would it be possible to show the glittered inserts lit up in a dark room?

How do you trim the radcals? Like where the sides meet the front of the cab? They look like they are a little hard to cut? Also, on the regular decals you mention dust particles? Could not see anything in the pics?

Thanks!

Also, What is this? Glitter? Is this a radcal or regular? I’m having a hard time seeing the differences in the pictures.

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Got mine!

Was the original side art screen printed?

Did you make the video?

Whats the procedure for cutting the rad cals for flipper buttons, etc...? Can u cut with an exacto knife?

Are the holes true and correct to the original playfield?

Thanks Mirco, very nice indeed!

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Wow, that looks great. Count me in.

Are there installed photos of Radcals? Hard to decide if it's what I want if I can't see the finished product.

So far I'm leaning towards traditional decals. Not sure I like the idea of a decal that stops at the edge of the side rails and legs

I’m looking for info in best practices for drilling holes for buttons and bolts. Countersinking isn’t an option for me.

Do the start button holes always align perfectly?

I posted YouTube videos of my journey, granted they are on a taxi, here is part one, the other parts are on my YouTube channel.. just takes you through my thought process.. cutting, prep, corners ..etc

This just came up in the HEP thread. I didn't realize how far off your repros were in the details of the art due to too-thick line tracing.

The playfields don't look like they are faithful to the original WMS screens. Willie looks like a vampire with pointed lips and too much red in her mouth. The lines on her face are too fat and long, which is a telltale sign of illustrator auto-trace without any hand-tuning. Look at how her too-thick and too long laugh line almost touches her too-fat nostril line in yours, and compare to the original art where they aren't even close.

Sallah also has problems related to too-fat black lines. I'm sure if I compared the whole playfield to stock, I'd find other issues of the same kind.

This will at least make potential buyers aware of the issues before they purchase.

Willie-Comparison.jpg

Really? What happened to the "Y" in Shorty on your non-glitter playfields, then? The lettering is all solid and correct on the WMS original, but yours has underlying colors well into the "Y" on yours.
Shorty-comparison (resized).jpg

The POINT is, if you just let the community (or some of your best customers if you want to keep it private) look these over BEFORE you made them, a lot of these errors could be caught and fixed so you'll get only the praise you crave when they're released. WMS might not have cared back in the 1990s, but playfields didn't cost $1100 back then, either. Easy to blow off a bunch of errors on a $100 playfield. A little harder to swallow at $1100. That's all. Customer care. Look into it.

First world problems in all their blazing glory. I agree with Micro, if you don't like it, keep your original pf.

QSS

Nah, not a thing at $1100.

Pooling? Chipping? Hell yeah a thing. Not seeing any customer concerns there.

Beautiful work. Now where do I find a machine to restore myself and use these products?

Trading one failing for another is not succeeding.

At least you agree they are problems. That's a start.

Of COURSE these are first world problems. But they shouldn't exist - he MADE these and could have put some more eyeballs on them before he committed them to wood and cleared them. But he didn't, and now he won't even acknowledge they're mistakes. The community wants to help him make his products as good as they can possibly be, but he keeps screwing it up by refusing help before it's too late. This is not the only playfield with issues he does.

My WMS original has green in the letters S H R. I don't see how anyone could proof-view and compare with their WMS original because the WMS originals were screened and there will always be color overlap in different spots.

DSC_2699 (resized).JPG

Okay, yes, screening is an imperfect art, confirmed.

However, this is 2020 and these new playfields are not screened, they're digitally printed. So screening errors aren't possible as long as the art is checked before printing. Art is not getting checked by enough eyeballs here before printing to correct errors. That is the problem. The community is more than willing to help stop these problems before they are committed to ink, but the help is being refused, leading to flawed releases.

HEP also found problems with implementation of the radcals for Indy. Art doesn't line up with the sides, and because the holes are pre-drilled, it's impossible to fix after the fact.

Pooling, chipping off pieces are not in the same failing. Minimizes the serious issue damage compared to artwork coloring.

Besides, I’d believe these artwork issues were in the original screens. W/B didn’t care back then.

?? Radcals aren’t predrilled. Line em up then cut your holes.

Trust me, they weren't. I am 100% sure about Willie's case.
We are talking about 5 minutes correction.
My contact also printed playfield. The playfield was nice, colorful, with few design issues. He never ever said "keep your old playfield if that is so much better", but did a correction then.

Really? Let me direct your attention to the picture from post #1 in the announcement of these being released. Those look like large pre-drilled holes in the art, no?

These are exactly the same as the ones HEP got. Because they're pre-drilled, it locks in the alignment of the radcal relative to the sides, so if the art doesn't match up (it doesn't) it cannot be fixed so the alignment is right. Check the HEP thread if you don't believe me.
Indy-Radcals_coin Door area (resized).jpg

It's just irritating that what is obviously a premium product at a premium price doesn't have a premium attention to detail when so many are willing to help BEFORE it's too late and the mistakes are locked in, that's all.

I think what’s irritating is the attitude. Would be so simple to say “hey, thanks for pointing this out, let me look into it for the future” vs being defensive all the time. That’s all.

And listen, when your customers are yelling at you, you still have customers. When they are quiet, then you’re in trouble. They’re still trying to help.

Ha! Well that, too.

Wrong. The holes are precut and difficult to get lined up well. Satisfactory for me, but a true perfectionist would not find it acceptable.

Well I checked my side radcals and they aren’t drilled. So are we talking just the front decal with issues here?

Yes, that's why your "radcals aren't predrilled" comment was incorrect. The front one, which is critical for alignment on TWO SIDES is pre-drilled. It's a problem that didn't have to be. Another self-inflicted wound amongst many.

Appreciate all the good dialogue on this topic. Lots of valid points. I went and took some pics of my original and Mirco repro playfields. I had to laugh as my original looks like the characters were out in the sun a bit too long. Anyway, I am pleased with both the Mirco playfied and radicals. No disagreement that they are not perfect but what the heck is in this crazy hobby. I appreciate all the vendors that make repro parts as it can't be an easy job (especially playfields). Without them, we would have very few options. Thanks Mirco! Thanks to all the detail oriented Pinsiders too! Hopefully, we can all learn and improve together.

Mirco IJ (resized).jpg

Original IJ (resized).jpg

The darker flesh color level provides a lot more contrast. It looks like the whites of the eyes are also much lighter/less full on Marion and Willy with the Mirco compared to the original playfields.

This thread motivated me to put on my IJ RADCALS. Thanks for the motivation!

Yes, the coindoor artwork was pre-drilled (just for the start and super ball buttons). If you align the side art and coindoor, most likely you will have some misalignment with those buttons (see pic). As a result, I decided to flush mount the buttons (opposed to the original recessed mount) so I could hide the misalignment with some 3d printed washers. I agree, probably best not to have the RADCALS pre-drilled at the factory. All that said, these things look amazing. No more faded decals for me.

For reference, here are some Getaway decals I got a few years ago from a different supplier. Sure, I wish the shifter was centered in the red box like the original. However, I know it is probably impossible to get all artwork to match every cabinet perfectly. I still believe we should alert suppliers when improvement opportunities arise. Just realize, at the end of the day, it is their choice whether or not to improve the product (which I hope they all do). We all get to make choices in life, we just need to be prepared to live with the outcomes of those choices.

Anyway, good conversation, thanks to all. Keep safe!

IJ Buttons as-is (resized).jpgIJ Buttons to-be (resized).jpgGetaway (resized).jpg

NOTE: I am still in the process of fitting up the decals. The scratches are in the protective film.