I bought this beat up Williams Indiana Jones about 10 years ago. I remember playing it just a few times and then I started taking it apart. I removed parts of the playfield, and some parts under the playfield, and threw everything in a box.

Now it's 10 years later, I have the box of parts but no pictures to remember how it goes together. When I bought it the old owner (idiot) ran a long screw into the bottom of the PF to hold the flipper base metal piece in place (see the pic with "Shorty"). The screw didn't break through the PF but it did raise it and ruin it. I was just about to have the PF repaired when a nice guy here on Pinside told me that Mirco just released some IJ playfields. I ordered one right away, and it arrived VERY quickly from Germany. Excellent packaging too. Very nice!

I'm about 2 weeks into my restoration, right now I have a bare cabinet that's beat up. Right now I have glued the backbox corners, and am repairing a big dinger in the cabinet. Tomorrow I have to glue the corners of the cabinet and paint the backbox.

Some wiring was flaky - as in wires just hanging and not attached to anything. So I'm sure I'll have questions soon. I'm using the Ricochet and MOF restoration posts as my guide (thanks!).
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I removed all of the decals today. Glued the last 2 corners that needed to be pulled together. Tomorrow I hope to be able to put on the first coat of Kilz.

I’ve got an issue with the cabinet. You can see exactly where I scraped off the decals. I’m trying to sand off the Kilz primer. I can feel the lines you can see in the picture, they are raised slightly. I’ve sanded and sanded and sanded. The orbital sander I bought yesterday (Bosch) plugs up every 2 minutes. The spots on the sandpaper are easy to remove with a razor blade, just scrape over the spots and they come right off. I’m not willing to put on a new $1 piece of sandpaper every 2 minutes . I need some advice, I think I need to sand with more coarse sandpaper to remove those high spots but would like some input. Thanks!

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Thanks I’ll give it a try!

The sanding was taking a LONG time, I'd estimate 5+ hours per side if I continued. I had 80 grit that's the roughest they had at Lowes. So I did a little reading and someone said try acetone. It works pretty well. I think it will still take 60-90 minutes per side. Lots of rubbing and it evaporates in 30 seconds so I am constantly pouring more on the cleaning cloth. I think the fumes may kill me so tomorrow I'll take that cabinet outside, it's supposed to be about 70 degrees tomorrow. Hopefully I can get it stripped, sanded a little and a coat of Kilz.

Do you think this is smooth enough at the top of the picture? I did some late sanding there so it’s not as smooth as the rest. You can see the wood grain. It’s quite smooth but definitely not as smooth as the lower part of the picture (which is the top of the back box).

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I used a heat gun a little and mostly acetone. Acetone and gloves and a few razor blades. Better work fast, the acetone evaporates in 15 seconds. It makes a mess, the acetone+paint+glue makes a gooey mixture.

I have the backbox and cabinet painted, decals soon.

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I put on the right side decal on the back box. Definitely can see every flaw underneath. I thought it was super smooth but I guess not. Hard to see the minor bumps in the pic. Some were in the graphic. I used the dry method and clamped the decal in place. Attached the lower half then removed the clamps and did the top.

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Thanks, I'll try that on the other side!

I applied the door decal tonight. 90 min job because I'm trying to make it perfect. Cutting the round holes is the hard part.

I have finished applying the decals. I used the dry method on one side, and Rapid-Tac on the other side.

Both sides I aligned perfectly and then put down a thick towel and placed the power supply on the towel to prevent the decal from moving. I folded back the decal away from the backing and cut it about a foot from the coin door end of the decal (I started at the coin door and worked to the left toward the back). Starting at the coin door allowed me to align the red lines on the artwork. I folded back the decal 3' before I cut the backing because when you cut it you get little paper fibers that have static electricity and they love to stick to the back of the decal. After I cut the 1' piece I vacuumed the cabinet again to make sure no paper fibers were left on the cabinet. I then took the 1' piece of the backing and overlapped it under the decal so 6" of the decal was not covered. Then I rolled out the decal and stuck down the 6" piece of decal. Then I removed the power supply. The overlapped 6" piece of decal (that is detached, was cut off earlier) makes it easier to remove the backing from the decal. Hard to explain sorry! I left the unattached decal layed out flat, as I removed the backing the backing made a 'U' and was being pulled away from the coin door. I pressed the decal down with my fingers and unrolled maybe 6" at a time. I had no real air bubbles, just make sure you work from the edge of the decal and only do 6" at a time or less. If you lay down a big section of decal you may get air bubbles. But going just a few inches at a time worked for me.

The Rapid-Tac side I had positioned the decal exactly as I wanted it so I did not need to shift the decal. I think it would have shifted if I had needed it to. I do see a scratch in the decal from my squeegee, not too bad but it sucks.

The worst part was actually cutting the edges. The plywood isn't perfect so you need to cut about 1/8" from the edge. I free handed some of it and if you look close you can tell it's not perfect. Where I free handed cut it's right on the edge of the plywood so I could use a straight edge and cut 1/8" from the edge if I want to. I bought a 5' piece of aluminum from Ace Hardware to help with cutting a straight line. Some cuts I could hold the aluminum with clamps, others I could not use clamps so make sure the aluminum doesn't shift while cutting. I think if I did it again I'd hold down the 5' aluminum with pipe clamps and I'd get a cleaner edge. I think I may do this, pretty good idea!

Another sucky part was using a paint pen using the aluminum as my straight edge. The ink bled under the aluminum and that was panic mode. All I had handy was some isopropyl alcohol which actually worked pretty well removing the ink.

I guess the good news is I can finally start reassembling!

They were RadCals. Might be because I used a scissors and not a razor blade.

I've only used RadCals, so not sure if thicker than others. I would say they were thick and pretty easy to manage. The sticker didn't leave fragments, just the backing.

The power supply has 8 plastic bushings where the bolts go through it. Are those needed? I have 4 and another 4 were broken.

I mean the transformer, that huge brick! Thanks. The 8 fragile hard off-white plastic bushings that go into the mounting brackets and slightly into the transformer.

Pic

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I have to make a new 5 pin connector for the ball trough opto. I bought this connector from PinballLife. Is there a special tool I need to attach the wires?

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I never realized they only used 4. Thanks for the info. Also thanks Chad for the link.

I got the lines pretty close

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I had a delay with Indy. Btw on Sunday night the movie was on TV.

My well pressure tank finally died. Made it 48 years. Here is my new tank I installed. Took forever I had never used PEX before. Lots of little leaks in the copper fittings, switched to pipe dope and ditched the Teflon tape to fix them.

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More $$$$ Pinball Life likes me. I’m up to about $1000 in the last month. Got a new rear glass mount, lockdown bar, new bolts. Look at the old big one that’s just to show how big they used to be. Already replaced round targets so now all will be new.

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OMG $35 for that little thing? I think i'll use the Molex crimper. I do appreciate the link though

What’s the best way to fix these pieces? Do they sell the material used to wrap them?

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It’s hard to see with the fluorescent lighting but I painted these hammered gold

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Thanks for the links. I never knew about Reese Rails, pretty cool.

Does anyone know if I can see how many of these posts are used by IJ? I did a part lookup on Pinball Life, but there was no match for the post in this link

https://www.pinballlife.com/1-716-tall-metal-post-with-cutaway-with-wood-screw-base.html

I'm not sure where they go either, some were already removed when I started this project.

Thanks!

You rock! I'm working on Indy now. Raining and windy. Lights flickering, only a matter of time until I lose power.

I’m making progress

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Those pics will help a lot Ricochet because I have no clue how the playfield goes together! I saw you greasing the transmission and I forgot all about that. UGGG.

How did you get the metal ramps so shiny? I have a friend with a bead blaster but that makes the surface so every fingerprint shows.

Thanks. Elbow grease takes time.....but what else is there to do?

I'm not sure what to use to attach the large metal brackets that attach at the bottom (near the player) that hold up the PF when you pull the PF out a foot and set it down. I have the close end attached with the bracket that stops the PF from going down into the cabinet (also holds apron), but the bracket at the far end goes into a hole that goes through the PF. I suppose it's a screw with a washer and a nut, and something on the PF must hide it.

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I marked the new PF so I knew which way the brackets pointed and what size of plastic loop it used. I painted the brackets hammered gold rustoleum #7210 I believe.

I thought it was odd on the original pf only one screw was used for each bracket, the other hold was predrilled but never had a screw in the hole.

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I never would have been able to figure that out.....thanks!

Ricochet is this the proper location for this light? It’s got brown wire, white/brown wire and one yellow wire. The yellow wire - I’m not sure where it goes? Was detached when I bought it. Thanks!!

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Ricochet you rock, thanks. I have 2 of the 3 wiring harnesses mostly installed. A few things to finish up for sure.

Did you put any mylar on your PF?

I edited my last post before I refreshed my browser. Did you put any mylar on your PF? I'm going to install the pop bumpers tonight, I thought I better wait and see if any mylar is going in that area.

I did a lousy job on the Mylar. Had small bubbles I just couldn’t get out. So I’ll start over. The new Mylar takes 10-14 days to arrive or so.

Now got to get the glue off. Not happy.

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Ricochet has me hand sanding my ramps. Nobody locally has those flap wheels. Still have 2 places to check, Farm and Fleet and Fleet Farm. I hand sanded this then used my buffer wheel.

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I could research this, but don't want to! Too much work to do. How do I get the mylar glue off the PF?

I made this little tube. It’s PEX tubing with 2 end caps. Who can guess what I used it for?

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I filled it with Acetone and dropped the metal bar in there for a few days to remove the paint.

I found some flour in the kitchen (at least 12 years old), and I tried it and it worked great. The alcohol alone worked, but the flour absorbed the glue and made less of a mess. Alcohol alone smeared the glue around, the flour made it go quicker and with less of a mess. The flour did get in the pop bumper nail holes though, not a big deal. Thanks for checking on me!

The acetone worked great on the outside edges, but the inside of the U it's not working at all. That paint is really on there! I'll just buy a new bracket, I like to use as much of the original game as possible.

It takes a while to sand all the stainless steel. It’s hard to tell but it’s got a slight mirror finish.

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There is a line for @ricochet, starts around the corner

I bought a new toy.

Can I install the large stainless “U” shaped ball guide? My Mylar hasn’t arrived so that limits installing things on the top of the pf. If I could install a few pieces at least it would feel like something is being accomplished.

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I rebuilt the drop targets. The targets are new, everything else is original. I can't find the circuit board that goes with this @#$%^&*. I didn't throw it away, it's here somewhere!

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Ricochet I see the new backbox locks I have are shorter than the original. Did you reuse your lock or you have a source for a new lock? I usually use Pinball Life, they are 90 min away, just because ship time is less.

FYI - When you remove all of the stainless steel parts, do not put them all in a big box. The sharp corners scratch other pieces and make the clean up process a lot more involved.

I have two of this tumbler https://www.harborfreight.com/5-lb-metal-vibrator-tumbler-67617.html?_br_psugg_q=vibrator

In one tumbler I have this media https://www.harborfreight.com/25-lb-black-aluminum-oxide-70-grit-abrasive-media-61871.html

I am using it dry with metal polish. It makes a lot of dust. I let it run a day, turn it off and let it sit several hours so when I open it up a dust cloud won't come out.

My question is should I add some water to the tumbler?

I have walnut shells in the other tumbler. I also bought 50lb of corn cob media, which is supposed to be even better than the walnut shell media. I haven't tried the corn cob media yet.

Been waiting about 3 weeks for my mylar from Germany. DANG let's GOOOOOOO. I want that in place before I start to populate the top of the PF. I have been cleaning metal parts for 2 weeks, most look very good.

Ooooo and the best news of the day, I have a big Craftsman sander which is currently on the floor because I need the space on the workbench. I moved it a foot and there was the drop target circuit board underneath.

I rebuilt this gearbox and I am 99% sure I reassembled it correctly. But there is a small gap now. I used a vice grip to keep it closed tightly as I tightened the screws.

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Today I see a package on the front porch. It's my MYLAR! Finally I can start populating the PF. Open the package, it's not IJ Mylar, no idea what it is for, but I'm not happy. Maybe in a month I'll actually receive the correct piece from Germany.

I’m not sure how much of this ramp is visible once everything is on the pf. Not sure how much to polish.

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Here is the #$%^&*^%$#%^& Mylar sheet I received.

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I messaged the seller the other day and he wanted to see a picture and I just sent him that same pic.

I noticed those were missing, wasn't sure what goes there!

I’m almost out of my Aluminum Oxide media so I figured I’d try it wet. I saw a video on the manufacturer’s website where they added water. Sure will help with the dust if nothing else. I let it run 30 min then checked on it. It’s a dry mess lol

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Wow is that a dirty playfield. I’m trying to order Comet LEDs. I bought the LED OCD board so I think I need non-ghosting lights.

Yes you are correct I had it backwards! How do I know how many led’s to buy?

Thanks

I noticed those were missing, wasn't sure what goes there!

Thanks! That helps a lot. I am planning on ordering tonight.

My water + Aluminum Oxide with 2 pitchers of water was a HUGE fiasco. DON'T TRY IT. The water must only be for plastic media. It basically made a big muddy sandbox of goo. NO, there will not be pictures LOL

Ricochet did you test the motors and transmissions before installing? I have a 12v power supply I could use.

So one motor is fine but the transmission has a rough spot when I turn the gears. So I opened the transmission. It popped open awkwardly and all the gears fell out. I need a diagram of how the spaces and gears are placed. I could wing it but probably a bad idea. Or I could take apart the other transmission. I did a search in the forums and didn't find anything.

I looked at my pictures from when I disassembled and it looks like I am missing a shim #$%^&*(&^%$. It goes on first. If you are looking at the open transmission, and the brass insert is at the top, then the lower 3 gears are one on the left, and two on the right (lined up vertically). I am missing the shim that is slightly larger than the others that goes under the gear on the left.

Thanks!

You can see the larger shim on the leftmost post at the bottom, somehow I lost the exact same shim from both transmissions.

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I used a M2 washer from Ace Hardware. 19 cents.

I rebuilt this transmission. I can spin it both directions with just my fingers.

The motor works when I hook it to a 9v battery when it is not attached to the transmission.

Once I mount the motor in place and adjust the gear play, I apply the 9v and the motor makes a tiny movement but then it stops and the transmission never moves.

Not sure what to do, the transmission seems very smooth. All the gears are fine, no missing teeth.

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"Not that it matters in this case but the gearbox you have attached to the opto assembly is the Path of Adventure gearbox. The idol lock needs the longer shaft"

Good catch! I looked at my pics and I think I selected that transmission because of the red sticker location.

1. You say you can spin it .. you mean by the shaft right ?

Yes

2. Can you see the gear in the hole where the motor gear goes?

Yes, I think the motor is too weak or under powered to spin it

3. Can you try the other motor on this gear box ?

I will try it tonight, good idea

It does work fine with the other motor. It's completely smooth one direction, the opposite direction it makes a little noise. I doubt I will take it apart because I just assembled it and it looks perfect. Might be the motor that is making the noise.

What color? The Sunlight Frosted is not an option. Thanks!

I'm up to $476 on my Comet order. I don't see the translucent pop bumpers. Might need to skip those. Are the 5 SMD too bright for the start button?

I placed my order from Comet.

Getting too crazy near me and I live in a nice area. Yesterday a cop got in a car accident near a protest.

I found a new gear box for IJ for $99, might buy one even if I can get mine to work, just in case. I bet in 10 years there won't be any of the special parts available.

I want to upload an iPhone video. Do I have to host it somewhere else?

Thanks Aaron. I mean A A RON

That's not the video I was going to post!

I got the gear box working. It was binding. I made a 1/64” thick gasket.

I was going to put the gear box assembly into place, but I don’t know what the 3 recessed holes are for. They have Tee nuts on top of the PF.

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Thanks! Nice that you said they were 2" made them much easier to find.

Got it in place

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I bought this Cliffy protector in 2010

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Comet order is here. And finally the Mylar from Germany ordered about June 1

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I used your suggestion as my guide. Then I bought in quantity. I got 300 of the 2 SMD wedge I think.

I fugged up the pop bumper mylar again, this time I'm going to live with it. Even if I tried again there's no guarantee I'd do any better of a job.

Thanks for the picker upper. I’ll be installing pop bumpers tonight plus those annoying metal strips

I cut away the area with a crease. It's not too bad, but trying not to fug anything up.

When is a good time to actually turn on the power? I'd like to test each bulb before I bury it under the plastics. I could tape up the coil wires which are mostly unconnected.

I could use a rotisserie.

The upper hole is not drilled properly. So the plastic looks like it will hit the metal pop bumper ring posts.

Might fill the hole and redrill.

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I said screw it since the other pop bumpers have similar hole alignment. Note the gold screws and messed up Mylar.

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My original mini playfield is perfect, a 9.9/10. Think I should just go with that rather than swapping everything to the Mirco board?

My original mini playfield is perfect, a 9.9/10. Think I should just go with that rather than swapping everything to the Mirco board?

The bulbs are REALLY difficult to install into these type of sockets, now I have some repair work to do.

I broke off a tab. Used 1/4” of a diode to make the repair. Be careful when replacing with LEDs. Very tight.

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I bought 10 flex bulbs, that's just enough to do the main board. They gave me a code for free shipping on my next order, and a tootsie roll or two

These holes are drilled too far apart so the screws are leaning inward

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I have the originals and they are the same size. But there were several hacked parts on this game. Which is the correct part I need to order?

Thanks!

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This goes on the very back of the pf and it’s on the super small coil assembly that pulls open a gate. Is this a 10-194? I found it on Marco but it doesn’t say the length. I need 1.75”

Thanks

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I'm not sure what the difference is in the coil stop, and which switch type I need, HELP

https://www.pinballlife.com/full-flipper-assembly-for-williamsbally-machines-from-021992-to-101998.html

Thanks again!

I noticed my original coils were both 11630 which is weaker. I’d rather have the power.

My uncle died he was 90. He wasn’t in good health. He had gastrointestinal covid which I’ve never heard of.

Totally off topic but this post shows I’m alive. Got this for my T2. Was about $10 total on eBay.

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Got my Pinball life package. Another $296 dang but I bought 8 flipper coils and those lane guides and I needed the spring I had asked about. So slowly making progress. I’m installing the flippers now. I don’t like how the wiring is all bunched up in the lower left.

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I decided to clean up my game room. It’s in the lowest level of a Tri-Level so it’s damp and spiders love it. I watch my sister’s dog a lot and the dog pees under the games, usually under T2 I guess she didn’t like the movie.

Besides the games in the picture, I have JD which needs a shop job, AF which is 99% ready to play, CFTBL my last project that just needs to have the playfield populated after a pf swap, MB which is great except the decals are junk on the cabinet and the back box, and my prized possession a beautiful CV which is so mint that jefflange1967 played one ball and turned it off. I asked why he stopped playing, he said “it’s too nice to play”.

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Thanks I appreciate that. jefflange1967 used to have 140 or so games and all of the top 20 best games. I bought quite a few from him before he moved to Florida.

Judge Dredd was in storage. I’m going to get it working soon (after IJ). I set it up, it’s not too bad. The front by the coin door has some dingers but the rest of the game is pretty nice.

Tomorrow more cleaning then back to IJ!

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I’d like to attach the mini pf. I’d like to know what this hole is for before I proceed. The hole in the center of the plastic. There is no hole directly below it in the pf.

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Good info thanks.

I am missing some metal posts, they have a smaller lower diameter than most of the posts I have seen, and the holes in the PF are smaller. I don't want to drill the PF hole larger if I don't have to since the posts in the link below won't fit into the pre-drilled hole. Do they still sell the smaller posts? The link is to the larger post that will not fit in the holes on my PF.

https://www.pinballlife.com/2-14-tall-metal-post-with-threaded-base-and-female-threaded-top.html

Slowly getting there. Some parts I ordered for the slingshots were shipped with something I didn’t order. So that will slow me down a little. I’m trying to finish populating the upper pf tonight and tomorrow

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