Quoted from RCSP:I could research this, but don't want to! Too much work to do. How do I get the mylar glue off the PF?
rapid-tac adhesive remover.
mylar glue is gone in 60 seconds. no muss, no fuss.
(Topic ID: 267418)
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Quoted from PtownPin:Wow good to know....
I use a plastic razor blade as a mini-scraper to move the glop around and finish with a little naptha.
Freeze spray to separate the mylar from the glue.
Rapid-tac adhesive remover for the glue.
Mylar is generally removed with zero damage and cleaned up in seconds.
1 week later
Quoted from RCSP:Yes you are correct I had it backwards! How do I know how many led’s to buy?
Thanks
Generally to take advantage of rhe bulk buys at comet:
100 2smd sunlight frosted bayonet base #44
200 2smd sunlight frosted wedge base #555
50 5led flasher towers #906 base
6 8led flasher towers #89 base.
This is like my standard order.
And another order later for the filliing in of specialty or missed items.
I really like the translucent pop bumper bodies from Zitt and the 7led dual sided pop bumper light plates/disks from comet.
This combo just ROCKS!
Quoted from RCSP:ricochet did you test the motors and transmissions before installing? I have a 12v power supply I could use.
Always test motors against the originals.
New ones are wired backwards.
Red dot on wrong side etc.
9v battery is sufficient.
Quoted from RCSP:You can see the larger shim on the leftmost post at the bottom, somehow I lost the exact same shim from both transmissions.
[quoted image]
Its just a washer. Drill out a fender washer to fit and sand it to the correct thickness so that the gears line up.
Chuck it in a drill and spin it on a file to adjust the width.
Quoted from RCSP:I'm up to $476 on my Comet order. I don't see the translucent pop bumpers. Might need to skip those. Are the 5 SMD too bright for the start button?
Remember, there are 2 voltages going on.
6v for most things, 12v for flashers (906, 89 etc.)
Quoted from RCSP:Comet order is here. And finally the Mylar from Germany ordered about June 1
[quoted image]
Should be enough for a couple games.
Quoted from RCSP:I used your suggestion as my guide. Then I bought in quantity. I got 300 of the 2 SMD wedge I think.
It never hurts to buy leds in bulk.
I have at least that many lol.
But i have several games yet to be restored...
Quoted from RCSP:I fugged up the pop bumper mylar again, this time I'm going to live with it. Even if I tried again there's no guarantee I'd do any better of a job.
As long as there are no bumps or wrinkles to affect rhe ball, your'e good.
It will never be seen.
Quoted from RCSP:When is a good time to actually turn on the power? I'd like to test each bulb before I bury it under the plastics. I could tape up the coil wires which are mostly unconnected.
Theoretically i have already powered up the game to test the power harness and plugged it in.
Then I drape the wires from the rotisserie, near the game, over the siderails, and plug into the game directly, string by string and turn it on each time i add a string.
This way i can test switches and lamps while i install them.
I do the lamps first then the swtches.
Often i install lamps "live".
I use the test utilty in the service menu a lot.
Quoted from RCSP:I could use a rotisserie.
The upper hole is not drilled properly. So the plastic looks like it will hit the metal pop bumper ring posts.
Might fill the hole and redrill.
[quoted image]
Build the pipe rotisserie from vids quick and dirty guide.
Its well worth the 2 hrs and $100
Quoted from dmacy:It looks fine to me (mylar). Don't beat yourself up too much. I haven't tried a wet/damp method of mylar but maybe that would be of some help. It is coming together nicely!
Ive been using the rapid-tac application fluid.
It allows for easy placement and removal for about 5 mins.
Dries with no residue, bubbles roll out easily for 30 mins with a hard rubber brayer or felt squeegee.
But you do have to squeegee out all the fluid.
I use it for cab decals and mylar.
Quoted from Ricochet:I stuck with my original POA... and there is a good chance your POA is not drilled right. Mirco’s first run were made for the early prototype POA with the steel side rails and not the more common plastic sides.
With these bulbs...
Sometimes they go in better one way vs. the other.
You should be using “flex” bulbs on those A-D-V-E-N-T-U-R-E inserts. Although those frosteds do a good job diffusing and dispersing the light... they are more suited for a vertical mount. The flex bulbs allow you to really place the LED perfectly upward within the inserts where side mounted sockets are used.
[quoted image]
Dual flex heads on the big inserts
Quoted from RCSP:These holes are drilled too far apart so the screws are leaning inward
[quoted image]
Way wrong lane guides!
1 month later
Quoted from RCSP:I rerouted the wires for the target but still have to screw it in. Missing a gold pinball. I see Marco has them about $15. I have a second plane I’ll have to look at ricochet pics to see where it goes. It’s got zip ties on it so it appears it wasn’t in the game when I bought it.
Thanks for the help on those left over items.
I’m getting close....
[quoted image]
check out the ball chris just used, its cool!
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/hep-this-week-9-17-18/page/152#post-5792165
Quoted from RCSP:I'm not sure which switch to buy, the part numbers don't match up. There are 2 available, and neither lists IJ as a compatible game.
https://www.pinballlife.com/williamsbally-start-button-20-9663-1.html
https://www.pinballlife.com/williamsbally-start-button-20-9663-16.html
I see the difference is at the base of the plastic around the bulb, which is not visible in the pics on the website.
This one:
https://www.pinballlife.com/williamsbally-start-button-20-9663-1.html
You might also get a green super ball button.
Quoted from RCSP:I’m missing a wire guide. I found this laying around. Not sure if it’s the right one. Seems too thick for the predrilled holes. 2-1/2” long.
[quoted image]
On wire guides.
See vids guide on this its very informative.
Basically the small hole they gave you is a locator hole as to where the wire guide goes. Its also a sufficient size to grip the wire, but too tight to get the wire to start going into the hole.
You find a drill bit the same size as the wire or very slightly larger.
You drill down thru the hole on the playfield about a third of the way down, say 3/16".
Run the drill backwards to avoid chipping the surface to start.
The small thru hole that exists all the way thru to the bottom is the friction hole that you hammer the wire down into so its tight.
Place a the corner of a block of wood under the wire guide. I use stacked hardwood floor samples measuring about 1/2" thick from home depot or a small piece of 1/2" MDF. The height should be at the center of a ball or 17/32" center of wire.
The half inch spacer block is just about perfect.
Make sure there are no burrs on the wire ends. File them off so that the wire will not hang up in the hole.
By using block spacers it keeps you from hammering too deep as its hard to pry the wire up if its installed correctly.
Put a little titebond on the wire, it helps the wire slide in as a lubrication and causes the wood to expand tighter.
This is how I do it.
Quoted from RCSP:Some things really “bug” me. Even if they are dead.
[quoted image]
get this kit to make your own wire guides:
Quoted from AaronZOOM:Am I crazy, or are your habitrails coated with something? Powder coated? Painted? They don't have that brassy shine I'm accustomed to.
I only mention it because when I first got my machine, some previous owner had spray painted them gold to cover up the corrosion rather than give them a good polish. The pin was full of gold dust as a result. T'was an awful mess to clean up.
I just use never dull on them.
It works pretty good.
Quoted from RCSP:I have 2 roll over switches where the switch seems bad. If I remove the wire that goes on the middle tab, then when I replace the wire the switch triggers in the switch edge test. I can just repeatedly touch the wire and it beeps each time. Does this mean the switch is bad?
I think so.
Quoted from RCSP:Thanks!
Left flipper still dead. Verified the switch/circuit board is ok. Re-seated all connectors on the board. I'll have to research how to diagnose!
I have every other switch working, except the solo drop target I need to pull off to adjust, too hard to work on while mounted.
Molex all 3 connections to it.
Takes 15 mins but, its well worth it.
Quoted from RCSP:I used a tumbler, the large $135 tumbler from Harbor Freight. I mostly used medium and fine acorn shells from Harbor Freight. I bought some fine corn cob media from Home Depot but haven’t tried it yet. For metal polish I used one bottle of Flitz which was $$$ and a tiny bottle, so I switched to Brasso. It was $2.50 for 8 ounces. Some parts I replaced like the targets and entire flipper assembly. Some parts I painted they just wouldn’t clean up (transformer brackets).
I bought a zillion screws from Pinball life. Most I just ordered 100 of each because it’s so frustrating not having the necessary fastener. I reused most posts unless I lost it or if the threads were messed up. I put on plastic protectors so some posts needed longer threads. [quoted image]
Brasso eorks great!
Quoted from RCSP:Shouldn’t I be able to check continuity between the flipper opto and J905? I started with the orange ground wire, no continuity. Can’t get continuity with any wire.
[quoted image]
Did you put in new opto boards for the flippers?
Ive had trouble with the left flipper on my last 2 IJ's.
I replaced the flipper opto boards and the fliptronics board, the problems went away.
The boards were cheap compared to hours of BS troubleshooting.
Ks arcade fliptronic board $55.
Flipper opto boards $12-$15 each.
Quoted from RCSP:Getting close! Need a trip to Ace Hardware for a screw for the leftmost drain post. Haven’t tested the ruins motor yet (if that’s what you call it). I had no clue what the playfield would look like when I started it was mostly in a box.
I think every switch works except one needs adjustment.
Pop bumper LED lights are very dim or not working at all. [quoted image][quoted image]
Path of adventure motor.
Personally i just replace them along with the opto board, and maybe the interrupter as well.
When its all assembled there should be only 3/16" or less of play or wobble on the mini playfield itself. If there is more the gears are shot.
Dim lights could be a burned GI connector and pins on the driver board. They are usually destroyed as well as the backbox light connectors and pins.
30 years of use is way longer than intended by the designers.
Replace those connectors with new trifurcons and polish the pins with a dremel wire brush or replace if burned through.
I would teplace every #44 and #555 light with sunlight 2smd frosted LEDS.
IJ is typically a dim game.
In this case the sunlight colored leds work perfectly.
This also takes the pressure off the GI part of the driver board and it will stop burning the connector.
You will be shocked and pleased with the difference it makes.
Quoted from KozMckPinball:Thanks for the reply. I am restoring an NBAFB and am trying to figure out what to tumble. How did you make that distinction? By metal type? e.g. can brackets be tumbled?
Everything can be tumbled.
Walnut media and a couple squirts of flitz.
The key is cleaning the parts in a sonic cleaner before tumbling.
Quoted from RCSP:I have the Comet pop bumper lights installed. Most other bulbs converted to Comet LED. The pop bumper lighting is probably a wiring issue, I had to remove and replace on the new PF all that goofy ribbon wire.
The Mini Playfield works, it's the other motor/gear box that needs to be tested! Maybe do that tonight!
It shouldnt have a lot of play in it.
Otherwise its should be ok.
POA opto boards are always an issue.
Quoted from RCSP:What chemical goes in the sonic cleaner? My sonic cleaner is from Harbor Freight and isn't all that big.
Purple power 40%, water and a squirt of dawn.
Quoted from RCSP:I don’t have a predrilled hole there.
[quoted image]
Looks like you will have to carefully drill one.
Start the hole with the drill running backwards.
This keeps from chipping the clearcoat.
Quoted from RCSP:Thanks pinballinreno.
Today flip machine on, none of the coils work. It's always something.
Fuses. Loose connection etc.
Quoted from RCSP:The 3 drop target bank is acting weird. When I am in test mode, it puts the 3 targets up fine, but then the coil stays in that state, so hitting the targets doesn't drop them. I looked at my original pics, and there is no spring to force the coil to drop back down like I would expect it to do. Any ideas?
Thanks!
Does the mech look like the one in the manual?
Any differences?
Quoted from RCSP:After viewing ricochet pics https://photos.google.com/share/AF1QipParamCAZVfm8HR3_KpETzKG62DWi4gUs4k9WHgSBvClx6EVPyNlpXpvOMn0i-Tqg/photo/AF1QipNUlMLa0_opEmsy1xIH8wNQ2sdyqERe_MHN0jap?key=Q0xOYlVkbHFpWmI1LXBINlUzQWEteFZ1MFVsanRn
I decided I had the proper coil, proper installation. I just bent the coil bracket (the large 4" high bracket just like the slingshots use). Seems ok.
Played about 10 three ball games. Playfield getting ball marks and scratches. UGGG. All brand new balls.
Wax the playfield
Quoted from RCSP:Follow my other post here about a lamp matrix I am trying to get working!
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/siegcraft-lamp-matrix-wiring-help#post-5874883
A 6v battery is real helpful to energise circuits when trouble shooting.
Quoted from RCSP:No clue what I am doing, but I watched MacGyver Saturday so I can wing it.
I got my lamp matrix working, and it acted strangely just like the lamp test. I see on the lamp matrix in the IJ manual, that the transistors in the lower right corner of the board are used for the lighting. I tested all of these transistors, and the Q98 was shorted (bad). Lucky it is the easiest to get at, the lower right corner, nothing below it or to the right of it. Just replaced it. Didn't fix my upper GI lights, they are still dead. So still looking for an issue!
Maybe I should pop in the TOM board and see what happens, this is a quick way to determine if it is a board problem or a wiring problem. EDIT: GI lights work with TOM main board installed. I tested all the transistors, what would I test next?
Thanks!
Sounds like your board needs some quality time on the workbench, or send it out for repairs and bullet proofing.
Quoted from RCSP:I found the GI issue, J120-7 and J115-3 had no continuity, fixed that. Upper GI works again. What's next? Oh crap back to the lamp issue, such as Tank Chase and Mode Start light up in test mode when testing Tank Chase.
Im where your at as far as rebuilding a very trashed game.
But, i bullet proof all the boards and connectors early in the build.
It really pays big time, down the road.
My game is 100% now after 6 weeks of work and quite a few orders from marco and pinball life.
Quoted from RCSP:What exactly did you do to the boards?
Sent them out to chris hibler.
Quoted from RCSP:Since the lights work with the TOM board doesn't that indicate my problem is on the board?
Yes.
Leave it installed. Send the board out to clive at coinop cauldron or Chris hibler.
Whoever can do a fast turn around.
This is what i do.
Im tired of inconsistant weird board failures.
Although its much cheaper to do it yourself via the pin wiki.
Quoted from pinballinreno:Yes.
Leave it installed. Send the board out to clive at coinop cauldron or Chris hibler.
Whoever can do a fast turn around.
This is what i do.
Im tired of inconsistant weird board failures.
Although its much cheaper to do it yourself via the pin wiki.
Its expensive and takes months to rebuild a game and source all the parts.
First thing i do is send my boards out after i get the game running 100%
Quoted from RCSP:Am I missing a GI light? These are under the lane guides. The one on the far right is empty.
Missing light would go where the red lane guide cap can be seen.
[quoted image]
Its always missing.
They deleted it at the factory to save time and money.
Ferl free to add it back in.
Just chain it off the one next to it.
I think the game needs it.
Im adding it into mine.
1 week later
Quoted from RCSP:I thought you had a Mirco also. Makes a huge difference.
I used the fluorescent light to show the dents. I played about 5 games. I’m scared to play more. I can see having 100s of dents within a week once I start playing it. I’d guess there are 30 dents already. [quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
Those are perfectly normal.
Quoted from RCSP:Now I'm finishing up some loose ends. The Super Ball button switch doesn't work. Current problem is the 12v lights in the backbox don't illuminate. All fuses are ok. Flashes on the PF work fine.
The flashers are 12v. Black sockets.
The regular bulbs are 6v.
Are the 12v flashers LED?
Is there 12v present with coin door closed in flasher test?
The door has to be closed and the leds could be installed backwards they are polarized..
Follow the 12 flasher wire to the connector check for breaks.
Check for voltage at the connector.
Check voltage at the pin in all light plus flasher test.
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