I added links to all of the photos that I took throughout my restoration on the first page of my restoration thread. You can just browse them directly that way... and there are quite a few more than what I have posted.

That is the glue that held the vinyl substrate onto the cabinet. You have to sand that off. Use a more aggressive grit... 80... then work your way back to 320. Some people use stripper... I don't like putting goop on the wood but it does work.

Its a bitch but it will come off.

I'd probably hit it with the heat gun and the scraper a bit more before the acetone... you'd be surprised at the amount of heat you can put to it without damaging the wood. But yeah... acetone is one of my favorite solvents... it is a terrific thinner too. When you take the metal brackets out of your back-box soak them in acetone for about 1/2 day... the paint will rub right off and they will shine up nicely.

Not gonna lie I found installing decals very stressful. Interesting... "paper fibers that stick to the back of the decal"... where did you get your decals? The paper backing on mine cut very clean and did't leave any debris at all.

It's a wonderful feeling having it done though.

Oh... ok I've never dealt with RadCals before. I've only seen threads on them. Aren't they fairly rigid.. and somewhat fault tolerant of the cabinet surface? ... unlike traditional decals which are very thin vinyl.... and will show the cabinet imperfections. But then again... I've no experience with RadCals so what the heck do I know anyway

Power supply? I’m not sure what aspect you are referring to. When I think of the power supply I’m thinking the power entry box ... the transformer and the WPC driver board.

On my transformer there are only 4 ... one under each screw head (like your pic)... on the other side there are only kep nuts.

Very nice indeed!

I've never tried or heard of anyone trying to re-wrap or fix those...

You can buy that railing by the foot from pinballlife you will need to cut it to length and drill it yourself :
https://www.pinballlife.com/black-vinyl-wrapped-wood-rail-for-playfield-edges-1-18-x-12.html

Or you could go with new lacquer coated solid oak, pre-cut pre-drilled from Reese Rails TaylorVA : https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/oak-replacement-playfield-rails-wh2o-and-taf-ready-to-ship-or-york#post-1944096

Reese Rails is the better option... a bit more pricey so it’s a budget call... but they do look great and won’t ever peel apart.

2 of them ... one goes under the right slingshot plastics to guide the rubber and the other goes above the wire guide on the left outlane.

playfield (resized).jpg

Sounds exciting ... for me populating the playfield was the most fun of the entire project.... least fun... painting and cleaning metal fitments.

I have these links in my thread... but since you are in the thick of it...here are all my photos... they may come in handy if you need a quick reference:
https://photos.app.goo.gl/PKPTgfgCzVQE7CAc8
https://photos.app.goo.gl/YqD2j2eZacimqy3g9

I used this to take away the ball trails:

DEWALT Flap Wheel, 3-Inch x 1-Inch x 1/4-Inch HP, 240-Grit (DAFE1H2410) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003N9BT6E/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_L2y4Eb1WH0FDS

I used this to polish:

3M Scotch-Brite Fine-Finishing Sander (9416NA) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00004Z4DK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_G3y4EbCKD50RA

For stuff that I couldn’t use the wheel for, I used 400 grit wet sandpaper and a maroon scuff pad from the auto parts store.

Depending upon how deep your trails are you may need to get a more aggressive grit.

The scuff pad can be used to finish up any surface even if you don’t get it quite right with the wheel. I found it to work very well.

It’s an elbow grease job

A666F908-6C60-4F3A-A864-5C865C1B03CE (resized).jpeg

The right bracket is mounted to the stud on the end of the idol ramp.

The left bracket is mounted on the middle stud of the steel ball guide on the left.

To followup on @filthyrich's advice...

All of your lamp sockets should use the following screws:
https://www.pinballlife.com/6-x-38-unslotted-hex-head-screw.html

All of your mechanical assemblies should use the following screws:
https://www.pinballlife.com/6-x-12-unslotted-hex-head-screw.html

Always check the clearance of the screw you are using to make sure it won't breach the surface of the playfield... when in doubt... use the shorter screw For example I noticed that my newer 1/2" screws were a tad longer than the originals AND since I had sanded the back of my playfield... I was concerned that I was on the edge of maybe poking through... so I used the small screws for the switch brackets and cable L brackets. To your point about the L brackets only using one screw... In some cases I added a second screw to sturdy it up.

That is the correct placement. That yellow pigtail is the return for the GI of your pop bumpers.

B9EDD7F8-B028-437B-8633-ADD970200B5D (resized).jpeg

You’re welcome. You’ll find it will pick up steam pretty quickly. I had a few hiccups along the way (mainly waiting for replacement parts and my decision to make an acrylic backboard) that slowed me down. This process really shows you the magnitude of manual labor that was involved in making these machines. If modern pinball companies had to build them like this we would be paying many thousands more for them. I can’t wait to do my next one... just need to take a break and rejuvenate

I’m not sure if the repro playfield has the mylar dotted line indicator or not? That helps with guidance. I put mylar around the pop bumpers and where the ball drops from the POA playfield.. and where the ball drops out of the wire ramps.

I got my Mylar from eBay:
https://ebay.us/X3iMED

You’ll find that listing shows the placement of the major pieces.

Oh man... I had a ton of micro-f'ups along the way. They all feel like some sort of major setback ... but end up being small potatoes. When I installed the mylar, I taped it down into position along the halfway mark then cut back the backing off. I applied the first half then removed the tape and the other half of the backing and applied the second... working it slowly. There were a few bubbles I carefully popped with the x-acto knife. After I got it all down I used a hair drier to soften it to get a good adhesion (I read that somewhere here). A coat of wax or two can help keep that adhesive from clinging to the playfield.

This will be but a blink of an eye in terms of your entire project.

That looks very good. If I had to pick one thing about the entire project to dislike... its refinishing the steel, especially the odd shaped pieces.

Everything on a WPC machine is discrete. You've got a matrix of switch and lamp wires going from each switch/led and a daisy chained common connected back to the driver board in the head. If you look at a modern Stern machine for example, they use a SPI bus architecture. This allows one pair of wires to service up to 256 io pins (I think that's the SPI limit). So its more of a networked design... you have a bus architecture... more complex (because of the bus abstraction) but a lot less wiring. All of the WPC logic runs on 5V ttl. This provides a very robust design... but ... 5V logic needs more power than today's conventional 3.3V logic (modernization here is actually a good thing... less power... less heat... more capacity). Consequently with WPC you have lots of heavy gauge wire == $$.

As far as lamps/leds... each led on a modern pin is just on a small PCB... makes it super cheap to manufacture. Those little LED PCBs are pennies in quantities.

Roll over switches have two screws that hold them onto the playfield and two screws that hold them onto the steel bracket. Nowadays, plastic bracket, spring grip push nuts.

Look at the woodworking... mitered cuts, cabinet grade plywood. Stern doesn't even use wood on the back box anymore. JJP puts more into their machines... but you're paying for it too.

Lots of little subtle things like the gauge of the steel in all of the mechanism.

Tons and tons and tons of fasteners.... this equals labor.

Take a look at the underbelly of a Chicago Gaming Remake and its original WPC design... you will see how much more it is integrated.

Yeah you can’t really simplify the mechanics all that much

Never done it... but this method seems safe enough...When you've got it cleaned... put a coat of wax on it, this will prevent the adhesive from sticking too much if you ever need to remove it.

Shipping back box metal trim? You sending stuff off for powder-coat or plating?

That is a good idea !

This is Brushed Stainless Steel (304 series) @ .048 thickness.
ij-rampshield (resized).jpg

ittpa-rampshieldbend.pdf

RCSP ... how is the adhesive removal process going?

Glad that worked out for you!

You may be able to get that paint out with a wire brush. Keeping it as original as possible is always a good thing. Most aftermarket stuff is usually pretty good but it always seems to be slightly off from OEM in my opinion. However if you want to get a new piece mantis is my go to for that stuff, top notch.

https://mantispinball.com/product/misc-u-channel/

Yes that is a fairly benign add.

I love my Dewalt cordless screwdriver! I used it more for tear down but it is one of my favorite light duty tools.

I purchased my back box lock and and lock plate kit from marcospecialties and there was no issue with fit. Pinballlife clearly has the same stuff... perhaps they sent you the wrong one by accident? I would check with them, its a pretty common part and you should have no problem with fit.

I wouldn't add water. I didn't use metal oxide media... I used crushed walnut media. https://www.harborfreight.com/25-lbs-fine-grade-walnut-shell-blast-media-92155.html
No dust... it absorbs the polish nicely.

I used the same vibrator tumbler... it died on the last bit of parts I had to polish... good thing it was cheap.

Double check your assembly... there are a couple of ways it can go together wrong and kind of still function.

Also... be sure to de-burr your threaded holes ... that can keep your halves from fitting properly.

ECF42749-2F03-41D7-AA26-7E59BD561B8D (resized).jpeg

That looks fine, very little of that ramp actually is directly visible ... there are a few pics of that in my photo album for reference.

Seriously? WTF is that ??? Clearly the wrong one !!! Bummer dude

Wow like you’d try to rip them off for a piece of Mylar.

Bobbin spacers and posts for the plastic... pic below (not mine)

plastic-standoffs-leftside (resized).jpg

Yeah its someone's restoration pic I scabbed off of here. I had forgotten what went there myself when I was doing it.

Nope... you don't need non-ghosting lamps with LED OCD. Regular LEDs give you a bit more range of control with LED OCD.

Ask... and you shall receive!
https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1vWCDP2mHtD3iR8CfPyN1i4qBFt_whKb21BIooUhlpP4/edit?usp=sharing

There are tabs at the bottom for each sheet that give you a break down of all that is needed.

Yes there are small washers that sit between the gears and back housing, and one that goes on the top housing.. and that tiny sleeve bearing that keeps that large gear from popping around ... they are all critical.

Look through my photos ... you may find what you need.

Not that it matters in this case but the gearbox you have attached to the opto assembly is the Path of Adventure gearbox. The idol lock needs the longer shaft (they are the same internals though).

1. You say you can spin it .. you mean by the shaft right ?

2. Can you see the gear in the hole where the motor gear goes?

3. Can you try the other motor on this gear box ?

Warm white for flashers is what you're after.

Oh yes... no need for 5 SMD. 1 or 2 SMD sunlight is fine. It's the flashers that are pricey... and if you are buying for more than one machine.

If you are just buying for indy ... it should be around 125 bucks (based upon my spreadsheet).

I was going to go with the translucent bodies... I opted not to. The white body glows nicely as well with those pop bumper LED discs.

Those are the locations for the three 2” screws that hold the translucent idol base to the top of the playfield.

A63C7DFF-216C-4AEB-A089-E8719D67A524 (resized).jpeg

That’s a lot of LEDs

You won’t see it... it’s a bit of a letdown once you get it all together and realize how very little of the upper playfield is visible.

You can remove them easily from the bottom side of the playfield. There are no bulbs that are impossible to deal with.

The problem bulbs are going to be your wedges. BNC sockets (as long as they aren’t corroded) are petty reliable. Those plastic bodied wedge LEDs can make wonky contact with their sockets and often times require some manipulation of their wires.

I stuck with my original POA... and there is a good chance your POA is not drilled right. Mirco’s first run were made for the early prototype POA with the steel side rails and not the more common plastic sides.

With these bulbs...

Sometimes they go in better one way vs. the other.

You should be using “flex” bulbs on those A-D-V-E-N-T-U-R-E inserts. Although those frosteds do a good job diffusing and dispersing the light... they are more suited for a vertical mount. The flex bulbs allow you to really place the LED perfectly upward within the inserts where side mounted sockets are used.

6385A68F-9367-483E-9B64-F2F268F125AC (resized).jpeg

Here’s the one you need... Williams # 03-7034-9

Yup ... there are two gates and those are the only two of that particular spring on the game.

Flipper coil FL-11629 with Coil Stop A-12390 and a Normally Open switch

Oh man I'm sorry to hear that.

There is actually quite a bit of freedom with the wiring... don’t be afraid to wrangle it where you want... plus it starts to clean itself up when you start getting everything connected.

I can’t tell you how many factory zip ties I removed and wire that I rejiggered.

You’re also working on it in the machine so you are fighting gravity throughout the process. Use some ties to hold it in place where you need the extra slack.

Wow!!! Super nice collection you have there!!!

Nothing... there may have been designs on paper to put a post under there but I’ve never seen any evidence that it’s used for anything.

All of the standard bumper posts..(9 of them) are 02-4659-1
There are two of these (I don't recall where) 02-4842
There are two of these (around captive ball) 02-4843

I wet sanded with 400 grit then 600...I finished it dry using a maroon scuff pad from pep boys. It worked wonders.

Nope only use the two screws ... this is how it is.

You need latest ROM version L-7

That round target definitely goes at the end of the captive ball cage. There is quite a bit of slack on that switch so it may be misleading you ... or you may need to re-orient your wiring a tad.

Flasher with Blk-Yel wire is #20, the Jackpot flasher that goes under the left side of the right ramp.
Flasher with Blu-Grn wire is #21, the Path of Adventure flasher that goes under right side of the right ramp.
Three pin 0.062 molex plug connects to the ruins flasher

That hole is for the wires for the opto pair at the entrance of the idol and the flasher that is on top of the ruins.

It actually has 4 ... One is Jackpot and the other is Path of Adventure which are unique.

The other two that are in-line with the ramp are tied together and connected to the right ramp cap flasher. Placement of
those two are not critical however the one closest to the back usually is the one with the yellow wires and terminates the chain.

Nice to see it powered up! Good job! That was one of the most nerve wracking and most exciting parts of the entire project for me.

Go back to this document... look at the flashers tab... there are notes as to where they are located:
https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1vWCDP2mHtD3iR8CfPyN1i4qBFt_whKb21BIooUhlpP4/edit?usp=sharing

A few things I've noticed on your picture... (you may already know this):

1. The bobbin spacer towards the front on the left side doesn't belong there. That is where the #6 screw for the metal ball guide goes. The bobbin goes to the left of that, in between the rail and the artwork on the playfield. There are two of them that will hold the plastic and are used to mount the shield that goes around the bend of the ramp. I'm not sure that the Mirco playfield has holes drilled for them.

2. The star post closest to the front right of the picture is incorrect. That is where your ball guide on the apron will mount.

3. The adjustable star post that is above it in the picture doesn't have the correct mounting post. It should just be a machine screw.
IJ-left-outlane (resized).jpgIJ-right-outlane (resized).jpg

Following up on this post...

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/indiana-jones-playfield-swap-and-restoration-covid-inspired/page/4#post-5805778

I was going back through your thread and looking at all the progress you’ve made and I noticed an error in my direction to you. That 2 pin molex plug goes to the ruins flasher... not the fighter plane as I had originally stated. I’ve corrected it.

Sorry about that!

Do yourself a favor before you spend ton of time tracing stuff...

Check every single diode in your lamp matrix. They are soldered right in-line with the lamp socket. Shorted diodes can cause all kinds of funky “almost on” or “not quite off” lamp behavior.

What’s the MP?

Solenoid/Flasher tests

Those are connected to the "Left Side Flasher" #31

Yup

Roll-overs are normally open... so that doesn't sound proper... test it removed from the playfield (if you've not already done that)... just to be sure its not a mounting goof... or a wiring problem.

E1B8E7E5-394D-4F7D-8F0E-19279A6F729F (resized).jpeg

They are for a bill acceptor. The 9 pin one (its 110VAC by the way) usually just sits by the hinge of the coin door...unused. Since you don’t have the other molex that will be unused as well.

If the other lamps in the upper playfield GI are still working ... you either have a broken wire or they are actually blown out... which would be weird. I’d bet the entire upper playfield GI is out.

Did you check the fuse (F110)?

Yes it connects to the brown wire of that bulb.
5D21775D-13F7-494E-899A-0AF8FDDF909A (resized).jpeg

CF4C4E44-09AA-4B1E-A704-AB323380EB97 (resized).jpeg

Are you talking about this post ... to the left of the wireform in the pic below? My playfied is factory. The hole is not all the way through.
052E55C6-6E96-4BDC-A848-E3BB3D073B7D (resized).jpeg

Lockout switch or connections to it?

The trace is on the top side... you can jumper it on the bottom though. You will need to look at the schematic... or find something here on pinside. I'm not recalling where that goes of the top of my head.

Yup that’s connection.

18AWG is fine ... you can solder to pin 7 or put the wire between 6 and 7 and bridge them, either way is fine. Out of caution, I wouldn't solder to pin 6 because its adjacent to the other circuit connection of that bridge.

That is the air ball stopper plastic made by Davi

Yes the plastic squelches the airballs that often occur when hitting the center targets.

Is that 18AWG wire? Looks smaller to me. If it is... I would go up a gauge (even though I said 18 was fine).

This is great! I've been enjoying your progress.

Bottom switch is a logical signal. Used to indicate the door is open and the system is being administered. If you power the game with the door open ... you’ll get all kinds of weird failures. On future versions of WPC... when you open the coin door you get that alert chime and it tells you that the high voltage disabled.... this is signaled by that switch. Indy doesn’t have that feature.

This ^^^^

Also you can check the mechanics of it without applying power to the system.

You should be able to manually reset the targets by pushing up on the plunger/plate and you should be able to drop each target manually with your finger.

There should be only one yellow wire that connects the brown wire of the lamp under the center plastic to the center pop lamp lead. Not sure why you have an extra one... probably something someone did at to it some point in its life maybe a GI mod or something

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/indiana-jones-playfield-swap-and-restoration-covid-inspired/page/6#post-5848058

Thank you for the complements.

If you look at a restoration for what it is ( a million little steps ), its like ... NOPE too much work!. However if you just tackle one thing at a time... and don't skip steps... have loose timelines... and it will be very fun and rewarding. I'm really glad to see all these Indy's get refreshed. When you get started... if you have any questions feel free to hit me up.

FYI ... That fuse is for your regulated 12VDC power supply. Keep an eye on it... it could just have been weakened from poking around and messing with stuff over time.

The GI thing... if you don't have any loose connections... you may be having issue with the triac on the power driver board. It is possible to do an experiment to see if the problem is the board vs. the wiring. It involves swapping some pin connections on the J121 plug. Swap pins 1(brown) and 2(orange) as well as swap pins 7(white-brown) and 8(white-orange)... this will swap the upper GI power lines to the lower GI and vice versa. If the problem follows (meaning you loose the lower GI) then you have an issue with the power driver board. If the problem persists on the upper GI... then its likely wiring.

I didn't even see that... good catch!!!!

Test those lamps in the GI tests... they are not part of the lamp matrix... they are actually one of the GI strands (purple/purple-white)... and are on most of the time... until you collect Hand of Fate, and when you get it... your coin door lamps will go out too (they are also connected to the same GI strand).

Pop bumpers are part of the upper GI lamp strand. If they are going out and the rest of the upper GI is still on... something is wrong with either the connection to them or they are not fitted in their sockets right (odd that it would be all three though). After I played mine for a bit I had one that went out ... it needed to be re-fitted in the socket.

Did you try my pin swapping experiment? This will isolate the board vs. wiring problem.

Cold solder joints, cracked traces and bad connections aside, the upper GI is controlled by a transistor (Q17:2N5401) and a triac (Q18:SC141). There isn't much to the GI circuit.

Have you checked all the diodes on your lamp sockets? Shorted diodes cause all kinds of lamp matrix weirdness.

Nope just test across the diode. Just test them all ... there aren’t that many. Don't forget the diodes on the lamp PCBs. There are also some on the POA... but if you don't see interference there then you may not need to go that far.

I didn't catch that. Yes

Yup that looks correct.

I’ve no dents. I put mylar pads where the ball drops out of the wireforms and where the ball lands at launch.

My playfield is original, clear coated... so it was good and pre-worn prior to restoration.

You should always run a jumper wire to be certain you have a good solid connection. Often times when you scrape away the solder mask and add heat to these boards you weaken the copper trace and it will slightly delaminate.

This was a fun restoration you did great!