New! Dark mode!

Browsing Pinside at night? Getting tired of all the white? Switch to dark mode using the button in the top right (or CTRL-B)!

(Topic ID: 267418)

Indiana Jones playfield swap and restoration


By RCSP

5 months ago



Topic Stats

  • 374 posts
  • 23 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 1 day ago by RCSP
  • Topic is favorited by 19 Pinsiders

You

Linked Games

No games have been linked to this topic.

    Topic Gallery

    There have been 150 images uploaded to this topic. (View topic image gallery).

    0BC37BCE-B748-4541-81EA-ED82E8A8F265 (resized).jpeg
    135181C7-BB1A-46AD-89BF-3374610E5AB2 (resized).jpeg
    C79EB40D-AA18-4833-8DB3-22523F2AC2D2 (resized).jpeg
    1E55AC74-E24A-44F6-8B8B-53DDFBF7011D (resized).jpeg
    488EC5B7-98A8-4AA4-99D3-3A0944ADE812 (resized).jpeg
    6DED908F-086F-47D3-AE80-31FFABF36164 (resized).jpeg
    8B1FD011-DE89-46C2-B535-CFA098D96E8D (resized).jpeg
    47D57C8C-A3D8-4226-AA51-A5109F0E1D9B (resized).jpeg
    55F0132F-93ED-452A-8627-7B679314D344 (resized).jpeg
    357F04A5-F83C-4837-B8AF-80F99E4A25E1 (resized).jpeg
    59604CCF-E876-4EFA-9B6C-02F2FAF9E45C (resized).jpeg
    3BF63327-982B-4682-8D1D-D21C8FD61ABE (resized).jpeg
    F6D1786C-D004-4232-90CF-643245DEC12B (resized).jpeg
    2E7AB91D-7DAA-4550-9EDB-6799F69548DC (resized).jpeg
    2A19C848-5B2B-4A0C-A831-0996C376CB78 (resized).jpeg
    D6AF82AB-E101-4310-A709-3E689C4ADD14 (resized).jpeg

    There are 374 posts in this topic. You are on page 8 of 8.
    #351 18 days ago

    3BF63327-982B-4682-8D1D-D21C8FD61ABE (resized).jpeg

    I need a TIP107, all I have is TP102. I read that Columns use TIP107 and Rows use TIP102. I had a ECG2344 (I guess that is a TIP102 compatible) where I need a TIP107.

    Could someone please give me a link to TIP102 and TIP107 on PinballLife? I looked on there and they must have a newer replacement since nothing matches up!

    Thank you!
    357F04A5-F83C-4837-B8AF-80F99E4A25E1 (resized).jpeg59604CCF-E876-4EFA-9B6C-02F2FAF9E45C (resized).jpeg

    #352 18 days ago
    Quoted from RCSP:

    [quoted image]
    I need a TIP107, all I have is TP102. I read that Columns use TIP107 and Rows use TIP102. I had a ECG2344 (I guess that is a TIP102 compatible) where I need a TIP107.
    Could someone please give me a link to TIP102 and TIP107 on PinballLife? I looked on there and they must have a newer replacement since nothing matches up!
    Thank you!
    [quoted image][quoted image]

    Digikey has them. https://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/TIP107/497-2606-5-ND/603631?utm_campaign=buynow&utm_medium=aggregator&curr=usd&utm_source=octopart

    #354 17 days ago

    Reflow all of the header pins on the driver board while you've got it out.

    #355 16 days ago
    Quoted from amxfc3s:

    Reflow all of the header pins on the driver board while you've got it out.

    Did that, thank you. Tonight I cut out some wires that were hacked and had the wrong color of wire. I wish I had done it way sooner. I had to do Molex work in the backbox, and the Molex crimper slid off the back of the DMD and hit the playfield and caused a minor scratch. 99% of it buffed out. It's barely noticeable, but still sucks. Now the GI lights all work and all the wires are the correct colors, and new connectors on J120 and J121 both on the PCB and the wire strands.

    On a side note, I fired up Judge Dredd for the first time in 10 years. Took me a few hours to attach the Dead World and it actually works. The upper left flipper is acting weird, but that game is fun. Has a 6 ball multiball. You can even start a game in multiball mode. After IJ is complete in a week or so, then I go back to finishing CFTBL (took a while to get the Mylar from Germany so I started on IJ). All I have to do is populate half of the playfield and apply the mylar. Everything else is done. Then either shop JD or shop and new graphics for MB, or new backbox decals for TOM. I do need to order the decals from Mirco and that may take a few weeks to receive.

    #356 14 days ago

    Am I missing a GI light? These are under the lane guides. The one on the far right is empty.

    Missing light would go where the red lane guide cap can be seen.

    55F0132F-93ED-452A-8627-7B679314D344 (resized).jpeg

    #357 14 days ago
    Quoted from RCSP:

    Am I missing a GI light? These are under the lane guides. The one on the far right is empty.
    Missing light would go where the red lane guide cap can be seen.
    [quoted image]

    Its always missing.

    They deleted it at the factory to save time and money.

    Ferl free to add it back in.

    Just chain it off the one next to it.

    I think the game needs it.

    Im adding it into mine.

    #358 11 days ago

    This is the post behind the drop targets. It’s brand new. Doesn’t work in the switch test. Is the wiring ok?

    47D57C8C-A3D8-4226-AA51-A5109F0E1D9B (resized).jpeg
    #359 11 days ago
    Quoted from RCSP:

    This is the post behind the drop targets. It’s brand new. Doesn’t work in the switch test. Is the wiring ok?
    [quoted image]

    Yup that looks correct.

    #360 11 days ago
    Quoted from Ricochet:

    Yup that looks correct.

    @#$%^&*(*&^%$%^&*(

    Thanks, I'll dig further into the wiring.

    ricochet where did you put mylar on the pf? Do you have a lot of ball dents already?

    #361 11 days ago

    I removed the target and it worked fine. The switch throw is super small, maybe 1/64". So just tightening the screws made the switch close slightly so it was always closed. I moved the target just slightly and tightened the screws TIGHT and it's ok now.

    #362 11 days ago
    Quoted from RCSP:

    @#$%^&*(*&^%$%^&*(
    Thanks, I'll dig further into the wiring.
    ricochet where did you put mylar on the pf? Do you have a lot of ball dents already?

    I’ve no dents. I put mylar pads where the ball drops out of the wireforms and where the ball lands at launch.

    My playfield is original, clear coated... so it was good and pre-worn prior to restoration.

    #363 8 days ago
    Quoted from Ricochet:

    I’ve no dents. I put mylar pads where the ball drops out of the wireforms and where the ball lands at launch.
    My playfield is original, clear coated... so it was good and pre-worn prior to restoration.

    I thought you had a Mirco also. Makes a huge difference.

    I used the fluorescent light to show the dents. I played about 5 games. I’m scared to play more. I can see having 100s of dents within a week once I start playing it. I’d guess there are 30 dents already.

    1E55AC74-E24A-44F6-8B8B-53DDFBF7011D (resized).jpeg488EC5B7-98A8-4AA4-99D3-3A0944ADE812 (resized).jpeg6DED908F-086F-47D3-AE80-31FFABF36164 (resized).jpeg8B1FD011-DE89-46C2-B535-CFA098D96E8D (resized).jpegC79EB40D-AA18-4833-8DB3-22523F2AC2D2 (resized).jpeg
    #364 7 days ago
    Quoted from RCSP:

    I thought you had a Mirco also. Makes a huge difference.
    I used the fluorescent light to show the dents. I played about 5 games. I’m scared to play more. I can see having 100s of dents within a week once I start playing it. I’d guess there are 30 dents already. [quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

    Those are perfectly normal.

    #365 4 days ago

    I had some holes in the backbox that I had to drill out, I filled them with bondo before I sanded the sides of the backbox. That's all done, I put in all new carriage bolts and nuts.

    Fixed one pop bumper, was binding. Seems weaker than the other 2 in the solenoid test after the repair.

    Now the upper GI is flashing very rapidly. In test mode lower GI fine, upper flashing (set to level 7). Flashes when not in test mode also. I checked J120 and J121 and both are new and pins properly seated.

    I'll dig around under the PF a little, not sure why the upper GI freaked out. Indy is probably sad that the game is nearly done and won't be in the workshop much longer.

    Edit: Re-seated all connectors on the main power board, lights work! My pinball life package arrived today, so I am adding the last light up at the top of the PF under the lane guides on the far right.

    #366 4 days ago

    Looks better with the far right light installed.

    135181C7-BB1A-46AD-89BF-3374610E5AB2 (resized).jpeg
    #367 4 days ago

    Upper GI weak and flickering again!

    I tried pressing on CPU J211, re-seating J120, J121, wires coming off transformer, re-seating all ribbon cables. Checked all fuses removed with DMM.

    Edit: I tested J121 pin 1 and pin 7 with DMM, and A/C voltage is 3.1, should be 6.3v or so. I am just inserting DMM leads into the back of the connector. If I remove the connector, and touch the pins of J121 directly, then I get 6.3v. I cut off and replaced one molex connector, didn't help. These connectors are all new (which I replaced, so maybe my work is the issue!).

    #368 3 days ago

    I ordered a bunch of stuff from Pinrestore. Cool website, lots of stuff that is rare. I've waited about 3 weeks and today a package finally arrives. All it contains is mylar. I waited so long I ordered mylar from Pinball Life which arrived in 3 days. So now I have enough mylar to last a lifetime. Still waiting on the other 20 items from Pinrestore. The main thing is spring steel and a rivet kit for an arbor press so I can redo my ramps.

    Edit: Pinrestore stuff coming Monday. Will be a busy week. They refunded about $25 of my money for the delay, classy company. Check out their website www.pinrestore.com

    #369 2 days ago

    So I have no continuity from J120-1 to the tab of transistor 18. I forgot the letter number. I think I need to scratch off the trace a little and solder or run a wire. Thoughts?

    #370 2 days ago
    Quoted from RCSP:

    So I have no continuity from J120-1 to the tab of transistor 18. I forgot the letter number. I think I need to scratch off the trace a little and solder or run a wire. Thoughts?

    You should always run a jumper wire to be certain you have a good solid connection. Often times when you scrape away the solder mask and add heat to these boards you weaken the copper trace and it will slightly delaminate.

    #371 1 day ago
    Quoted from Ricochet:

    You should always run a jumper wire to be certain you have a good solid connection. Often times when you scrape away the solder mask and add heat to these boards you weaken the copper trace and it will slightly delaminate.

    I had just finished fixing it and was going to post a picture. Then I read this so I ran a wire. It has continuity. Installing now.
    0BC37BCE-B748-4541-81EA-ED82E8A8F265 (resized).jpeg

    Edit: GI works!!

    #372 1 day ago

    Now I'm finishing up some loose ends. The Super Ball button switch doesn't work. Current problem is the 12v lights in the backbox don't illuminate. All fuses are ok. Flashes on the PF work fine.

    #373 1 day ago
    Quoted from RCSP:

    Now I'm finishing up some loose ends. The Super Ball button switch doesn't work. Current problem is the 12v lights in the backbox don't illuminate. All fuses are ok. Flashes on the PF work fine.

    The flashers are 12v. Black sockets.
    The regular bulbs are 6v.
    Are the 12v flashers LED?

    Is there 12v present with coin door closed in flasher test?

    The door has to be closed and the leds could be installed backwards they are polarized..

    Follow the 12 flasher wire to the connector check for breaks.

    Check for voltage at the connector.

    Check voltage at the pin in all light plus flasher test.

    #374 1 day ago
    Quoted from pinballinreno:

    The flashers are 12v. Black sockets.
    The regular bulbs are 6v.
    Are the 12v flashers LED?
    Is there 12v present with coin door closed in flasher test?
    The door has to be closed and the leds could be installed backwards they are polarized..
    Follow the 12 flasher wire to the connector check for breaks.
    Check for voltage at the connector.
    Check voltage at the pin in all light plus flasher test.

    No idea why but this time in the Lamps + Flashes the incandescent lights lit up, but the LED's didn't. Messed a little with the LED's and got all of them to light.

    Thanks for the post, it made me go back and get my DMM ready, but then the lights worked, oh well it's pinball.

    Promoted items from the Pinside Marketplace
    $ 149.99
    Playfield - Toys/Add-ons
    Lighted Pinball Mods
    $ 59.00
    Playfield - Toys/Add-ons
    Pixels Arcade Games
    $ 40.00
    Gameroom - Decorations
    Arcade Arts
    $ 10.00
    Cabinet - Other
    Docquest Pinball Mods
    $ 48.00
    Cabinet - Other
    ModFather Pinball Mods
    $ 40.00
    Playfield - Other
    PIN-UPS
    $ 36.99
    Lighting - Interactive
    Lee's Parts
    $ 53.00
    Cabinet - Shooter Rods
    ModFather Pinball Mods
    $ 199.99
    $ 89.99
    $ 100.00
    Gameroom - Decorations
    The Flipper Room
    $ 86.95
    Cabinet - Shooter Rods
    Super Skill Shot Shop
    $ 120.00
    Playfield - Toys/Add-ons
    G-Money Mods
    From: $ 9.99
    Eproms
    Matt's Basement Arcade
    $ 125.00
    $ 9.99
    Eproms
    Matt's Basement Arcade
    $ 200.00
    Lighting - Interactive
    Professor Pinball
    From: $ 99.99
    Cabinet - Other
    Lighted Pinball Mods
    $ 15.00
    $ 1,099.00
    Flipper Parts
    Mircoplayfields
    $ 199.99
    $ 26.50
    $ 7,699.00
    Pinball Machine
    Classic Game Rooms
    $ 99.99
    Lighting - Other
    Lighted Pinball Mods
    $ 69.99
    Playfield - Toys/Add-ons
    Lighted Pinball Mods
    $ 219.99
    $ 4.49
    Electronics
    Yorktown Arcade Supply
    $ 54.99
    Cabinet - Shooter Rods
    Lighted Pinball Mods
    $ 90.00
    Lighting - Under Cabinet
    Rock Custom Pinball
    From: $ 99.00
    Lighting - Under Cabinet
    Rock Custom Pinball
    There are 374 posts in this topic. You are on page 8 of 8.

    Hey there! Got a moment?

    Great to see you're enjoying Pinside! Did you know Pinside is able to run thanks to donations from our visitors? Please donate to Pinside, support the site and get anext to your username to show for it! Donate to Pinside