(Topic ID: 267418)

Indiana Jones playfield swap and restoration

By RCSP

1 year ago


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  • 388 posts
  • 23 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 11 months ago by RCSP
  • Topic is favorited by 21 Pinsiders

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    There are 388 posts in this topic. You are on page 8 of 8.
    #351 1 year ago

    3BF63327-982B-4682-8D1D-D21C8FD61ABE (resized).jpeg

    I need a TIP107, all I have is TP102. I read that Columns use TIP107 and Rows use TIP102. I had a ECG2344 (I guess that is a TIP102 compatible) where I need a TIP107.

    Could someone please give me a link to TIP102 and TIP107 on PinballLife? I looked on there and they must have a newer replacement since nothing matches up!

    Thank you!
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    #352 1 year ago
    Quoted from RCSP:

    [quoted image]
    I need a TIP107, all I have is TP102. I read that Columns use TIP107 and Rows use TIP102. I had a ECG2344 (I guess that is a TIP102 compatible) where I need a TIP107.
    Could someone please give me a link to TIP102 and TIP107 on PinballLife? I looked on there and they must have a newer replacement since nothing matches up!
    Thank you!
    [quoted image][quoted image]

    Digikey has them. https://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/TIP107/497-2606-5-ND/603631?utm_campaign=buynow&utm_medium=aggregator&curr=usd&utm_source=octopart

    #354 1 year ago

    Reflow all of the header pins on the driver board while you've got it out.

    #355 1 year ago
    Quoted from amxfc3s:

    Reflow all of the header pins on the driver board while you've got it out.

    Did that, thank you. Tonight I cut out some wires that were hacked and had the wrong color of wire. I wish I had done it way sooner. I had to do Molex work in the backbox, and the Molex crimper slid off the back of the DMD and hit the playfield and caused a minor scratch. 99% of it buffed out. It's barely noticeable, but still sucks. Now the GI lights all work and all the wires are the correct colors, and new connectors on J120 and J121 both on the PCB and the wire strands.

    On a side note, I fired up Judge Dredd for the first time in 10 years. Took me a few hours to attach the Dead World and it actually works. The upper left flipper is acting weird, but that game is fun. Has a 6 ball multiball. You can even start a game in multiball mode. After IJ is complete in a week or so, then I go back to finishing CFTBL (took a while to get the Mylar from Germany so I started on IJ). All I have to do is populate half of the playfield and apply the mylar. Everything else is done. Then either shop JD or shop and new graphics for MB, or new backbox decals for TOM. I do need to order the decals from Mirco and that may take a few weeks to receive.

    #356 1 year ago

    Am I missing a GI light? These are under the lane guides. The one on the far right is empty.

    Missing light would go where the red lane guide cap can be seen.

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    #357 1 year ago
    Quoted from RCSP:

    Am I missing a GI light? These are under the lane guides. The one on the far right is empty.
    Missing light would go where the red lane guide cap can be seen.
    [quoted image]

    Its always missing.

    They deleted it at the factory to save time and money.

    Ferl free to add it back in.

    Just chain it off the one next to it.

    I think the game needs it.

    Im adding it into mine.

    #358 1 year ago

    This is the post behind the drop targets. It’s brand new. Doesn’t work in the switch test. Is the wiring ok?

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    #359 1 year ago
    Quoted from RCSP:

    This is the post behind the drop targets. It’s brand new. Doesn’t work in the switch test. Is the wiring ok?
    [quoted image]

    Yup that looks correct.

    #360 1 year ago
    Quoted from Ricochet:

    Yup that looks correct.

    @#$%^&*(*&^%$%^&*(

    Thanks, I'll dig further into the wiring.

    Ricochet where did you put mylar on the pf? Do you have a lot of ball dents already?

    #361 1 year ago

    I removed the target and it worked fine. The switch throw is super small, maybe 1/64". So just tightening the screws made the switch close slightly so it was always closed. I moved the target just slightly and tightened the screws TIGHT and it's ok now.

    #362 1 year ago
    Quoted from RCSP:

    @#$%^&*(*&^%$%^&*(
    Thanks, I'll dig further into the wiring.
    ricochet where did you put mylar on the pf? Do you have a lot of ball dents already?

    I’ve no dents. I put mylar pads where the ball drops out of the wireforms and where the ball lands at launch.

    My playfield is original, clear coated... so it was good and pre-worn prior to restoration.

    #363 1 year ago
    Quoted from Ricochet:

    I’ve no dents. I put mylar pads where the ball drops out of the wireforms and where the ball lands at launch.
    My playfield is original, clear coated... so it was good and pre-worn prior to restoration.

    I thought you had a Mirco also. Makes a huge difference.

    I used the fluorescent light to show the dents. I played about 5 games. I’m scared to play more. I can see having 100s of dents within a week once I start playing it. I’d guess there are 30 dents already.

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    #364 1 year ago
    Quoted from RCSP:

    I thought you had a Mirco also. Makes a huge difference.
    I used the fluorescent light to show the dents. I played about 5 games. I’m scared to play more. I can see having 100s of dents within a week once I start playing it. I’d guess there are 30 dents already. [quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

    Those are perfectly normal.

    #365 1 year ago

    I had some holes in the backbox that I had to drill out, I filled them with bondo before I sanded the sides of the backbox. That's all done, I put in all new carriage bolts and nuts.

    Fixed one pop bumper, was binding. Seems weaker than the other 2 in the solenoid test after the repair.

    Now the upper GI is flashing very rapidly. In test mode lower GI fine, upper flashing (set to level 7). Flashes when not in test mode also. I checked J120 and J121 and both are new and pins properly seated.

    I'll dig around under the PF a little, not sure why the upper GI freaked out. Indy is probably sad that the game is nearly done and won't be in the workshop much longer.

    Edit: Re-seated all connectors on the main power board, lights work! My pinball life package arrived today, so I am adding the last light up at the top of the PF under the lane guides on the far right.

    #366 1 year ago

    Looks better with the far right light installed.

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    #367 1 year ago

    Upper GI weak and flickering again!

    I tried pressing on CPU J211, re-seating J120, J121, wires coming off transformer, re-seating all ribbon cables. Checked all fuses removed with DMM.

    Edit: I tested J121 pin 1 and pin 7 with DMM, and A/C voltage is 3.1, should be 6.3v or so. I am just inserting DMM leads into the back of the connector. If I remove the connector, and touch the pins of J121 directly, then I get 6.3v. I cut off and replaced one molex connector, didn't help. These connectors are all new (which I replaced, so maybe my work is the issue!).

    #368 1 year ago

    I ordered a bunch of stuff from Pinrestore. Cool website, lots of stuff that is rare. I've waited about 3 weeks and today a package finally arrives. All it contains is mylar. I waited so long I ordered mylar from Pinball Life which arrived in 3 days. So now I have enough mylar to last a lifetime. Still waiting on the other 20 items from Pinrestore. The main thing is spring steel and a rivet kit for an arbor press so I can redo my ramps.

    Edit: Pinrestore stuff coming Monday. Will be a busy week. They refunded about $25 of my money for the delay, classy company. Check out their website www.pinrestore.com

    Edit: The refund was for the overcharge of the $45 shipping charge, so I still paid $20 shipping for stuff that would fit in a USPS Flat Rate Box.

    #369 1 year ago

    So I have no continuity from J120-1 to the tab of transistor 18. I forgot the letter number. I think I need to scratch off the trace a little and solder or run a wire. Thoughts?

    #370 1 year ago
    Quoted from RCSP:

    So I have no continuity from J120-1 to the tab of transistor 18. I forgot the letter number. I think I need to scratch off the trace a little and solder or run a wire. Thoughts?

    You should always run a jumper wire to be certain you have a good solid connection. Often times when you scrape away the solder mask and add heat to these boards you weaken the copper trace and it will slightly delaminate.

    #371 1 year ago
    Quoted from Ricochet:

    You should always run a jumper wire to be certain you have a good solid connection. Often times when you scrape away the solder mask and add heat to these boards you weaken the copper trace and it will slightly delaminate.

    I had just finished fixing it and was going to post a picture. Then I read this so I ran a wire. It has continuity. Installing now.
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    Edit: GI works!!

    #372 1 year ago

    Now I'm finishing up some loose ends. The Super Ball button switch doesn't work. Current problem is the 12v lights in the backbox don't illuminate. All fuses are ok. Flashes on the PF work fine.

    #373 1 year ago
    Quoted from RCSP:

    Now I'm finishing up some loose ends. The Super Ball button switch doesn't work. Current problem is the 12v lights in the backbox don't illuminate. All fuses are ok. Flashes on the PF work fine.

    The flashers are 12v. Black sockets.
    The regular bulbs are 6v.
    Are the 12v flashers LED?

    Is there 12v present with coin door closed in flasher test?

    The door has to be closed and the leds could be installed backwards they are polarized..

    Follow the 12 flasher wire to the connector check for breaks.

    Check for voltage at the connector.

    Check voltage at the pin in all light plus flasher test.

    #374 1 year ago
    Quoted from pinballinreno:

    The flashers are 12v. Black sockets.
    The regular bulbs are 6v.
    Are the 12v flashers LED?
    Is there 12v present with coin door closed in flasher test?
    The door has to be closed and the leds could be installed backwards they are polarized..
    Follow the 12 flasher wire to the connector check for breaks.
    Check for voltage at the connector.
    Check voltage at the pin in all light plus flasher test.

    No idea why but this time in the Lamps + Flashes the incandescent lights lit up, but the LED's didn't. Messed a little with the LED's and got all of them to light.

    Thanks for the post, it made me go back and get my DMM ready, but then the lights worked, oh well it's pinball.

    #375 1 year ago

    Rained all day, so I organized my screw box, and am trying my new Arbor Press / Ramp Rivet crimper.

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    #376 12 months ago

    Well I’m cleaning up I’m 99% done. I see stuff that used to look great and now needs to be touched up. So the lesson is cover everything with a towel, don’t set tools on top of anything.

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    #377 12 months ago

    Great job on the pin! To restore a pin that has been apart for years is a major accomplishment. Now sell me your AFM.........

    #378 12 months ago

    This was a fun restoration you did great!

    #379 12 months ago
    Quoted from jefflange1967:

    Great job on the pin! To restore a pin that has been apart for years is a major accomplishment. Now sell me your AFM.........

    You see Jeff, that was your AFM, you should have never sold it! It's a fun game, the ramps are tough to hit consistently. I'm having more fun playing T2 right now. I played TOTAN for a week, I play 3 games and I've had enough. I need to read the rules for the 8th time, I never get all the Jewels. T2 has so many more multi-balls it's just fun. And I am pretty good at getting Super Jackpots, I have a strategy that works 75% of the time.

    #380 12 months ago

    Tonight’s job to replace this ramp flap.

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    1 week later
    #381 11 months ago

    The Super Ball light gave me some problems, I made a separate thread for that. To test it you actually have to go into the Flasher test.

    Super Ball switch doesn't work, I think I have a mismatched switch / button so the distance to the switch is too far. I'm just going to crazy glue a small washer on the button tab.

    I played a few games, after the very first ball launch the wire to that coil fell off, fixed it.

    I forgot I still have to attach the LED OCD board I bought. I'm almost done!

    #382 11 months ago

    I installed the LED OCD board, very easy to install too less than 10 min. Easy to remove too if I wanted to try it in other games. The printed instructions provide a bad link, but the website had much better instructions that the printed page.

    So the POA mini playfield, when the ball goes up there, what are the lights for, do you want to avoid the light or run over the lights that are lit?

    We have top men working on it.

    #383 11 months ago

    This sticker sometimes prevents the drop target from going all the way down. I can trim it but will it happen again?

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    #384 11 months ago

    Can you see what it's catching on? I had a problem with a drop target sticking on the way down, but it had nothing to do with the sticker. It was the guide washer, which slides inside a channel inside the target. The washer was ever so slightly irregular, and it was catching there. I'd check those washers and make sure everything is sliding freely. And make sure there's a good amount of tension on the springs pulling the target down. Maybe it's not as taut as it should be?

    And yes, on the POA you want to hit the lit targets.

    #385 11 months ago

    The sticker was catching on the plastic piece that is riveted on to hold the target up.

    I was just going to put on the glass and move IJ into my game room, and the $%^&* "INDY" lane switches are not working. These are in the same column on the switch matrix as the slam tilt, which is also not working (again). It's late so that's tomorrow's project.

    #386 11 months ago

    Still have the INDY lane issue. But played a game anyway. Each time a ball is kicked into the shooter lane the 3 drop targets are popped up 5x. After the first pop of the coil the targets are up but I hear 4 more pops that basically do nothing. Probably a switch issue that I’ll look at tomorrow night.

    1 week later
    #387 11 months ago

    OMG just typed this all in and it got zapped.

    I installed a chip socket and a new chip for U20 (controls the lane guide switches). Also removed the corroded battery holder and replaced with CR2032 holder + battery.

    The battery installation went OK, I have 3v from the upper right hole in the PCB from the old holder, to the lower left location. Also have 3v from battery + to the ground on the CPU board near the screw holes.

    When IJ is powered on, looks normal, but the Idol just spins non-stop, and the message "Factory Settings Restored" appears. No buttons work. This is usually a bad battery message. I rechecked the battery and it appears ok.

    Not sure what to try next. I do have a T2 and a CFTBL that use the same CPU board that I could swap.

    Thanks!

    #388 11 months ago

    I'll post this for future help to someone. If the Idol just spins and spins at startup, check the ribbon cable on the far left middle of the CPU board that is labeled "Display".

    I got IJ working, thanks to ChrisHibler and zaza and DumbAss and pinballinreno and of course Ricochet! I think that U16 and U17 receive their power from U20, and when I installed the socket I messed it up. I ran a jumper wire from U20 power the the "B" bypass capacitor which also connects to U16 and U17 power. I'd estimate I took off the CPU board at least 20-25 times, but I learned a TON.

    Thanks everyone for all the help. I'm putting IJ in my game room now for a while, I need a break from IJ, so the CFTBL has been brought in the workshop and needs to have about 1/4 of the top of the PF populated and it should be ready to play! Remember it took 2 months to get the mylar from Germany (and after all that it fit like CRAP) so I cut my own piece. The spots for the pop bumper screws (the larger ROUND head but flat (x3)) were off by 1/2".

    I'm about to make a post in generic tech for board repair advice if anybody is interested.

    THANKS!

    There are 388 posts in this topic. You are on page 8 of 8.

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