(Topic ID: 267418)

Indiana Jones playfield swap and restoration


By RCSP

3 months ago



Topic Stats

  • 184 posts
  • 15 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 1 day ago by RCSP
  • Topic is favorited by 13 Pinsiders

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    There are 184 posts in this topic. You are on page 4 of 4.
    #151 27 days ago
    Quoted from RCSP:

    I fugged up the pop bumper mylar again, this time I'm going to live with it. Even if I tried again there's no guarantee I'd do any better of a job.

    As long as there are no bumps or wrinkles to affect rhe ball, your'e good.

    It will never be seen.

    #152 26 days ago
    Quoted from pinballinreno:

    As long as there are no bumps or wrinkles to affect rhe ball, your'e good.
    It will never be seen.

    I cut away the area with a crease. It's not too bad, but trying not to fug anything up.

    #153 26 days ago

    When is a good time to actually turn on the power? I'd like to test each bulb before I bury it under the plastics. I could tape up the coil wires which are mostly unconnected.

    #154 26 days ago
    Quoted from RCSP:

    When is a good time to actually turn on the power? I'd like to test each bulb before I bury it under the plastics. I could tape up the coil wires which are mostly unconnected.

    Theoretically i have already powered up the game to test the power harness and plugged it in.

    Then I drape the wires from the rotisserie, near the game, over the siderails, and plug into the game directly, string by string and turn it on each time i add a string.

    This way i can test switches and lamps while i install them.

    I do the lamps first then the swtches.

    Often i install lamps "live".

    I use the test utilty in the service menu a lot.

    #155 26 days ago

    I could use a rotisserie.

    The upper hole is not drilled properly. So the plastic looks like it will hit the metal pop bumper ring posts.

    Might fill the hole and redrill.

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    #156 26 days ago

    I said screw it since the other pop bumpers have similar hole alignment. Note the gold screws and messed up Mylar.

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    #157 26 days ago
    Quoted from RCSP:

    When is a good time to actually turn on the power? I'd like to test each bulb before I bury it under the plastics. I could tape up the coil wires which are mostly unconnected.

    You can remove them easily from the bottom side of the playfield. There are no bulbs that are impossible to deal with.

    The problem bulbs are going to be your wedges. BNC sockets (as long as they aren’t corroded) are petty reliable. Those plastic bodied wedge LEDs can make wonky contact with their sockets and often times require some manipulation of their wires.

    #158 26 days ago
    Quoted from RCSP:

    I could use a rotisserie.
    The upper hole is not drilled properly. So the plastic looks like it will hit the metal pop bumper ring posts.
    Might fill the hole and redrill.
    [quoted image]

    Build the pipe rotisserie from vids quick and dirty guide.

    Its well worth the 2 hrs and $100

    #159 26 days ago
    Quoted from RCSP:

    I said screw it since the other pop bumpers have similar hole alignment. Note the gold screws and messed up Mylar.
    [quoted image]

    It looks fine to me (mylar). Don't beat yourself up too much. I haven't tried a wet/damp method of mylar but maybe that would be of some help. It is coming together nicely!

    #160 26 days ago
    Quoted from dmacy:

    It looks fine to me (mylar). Don't beat yourself up too much. I haven't tried a wet/damp method of mylar but maybe that would be of some help. It is coming together nicely!

    Ive been using the rapid-tac application fluid.

    It allows for easy placement and removal for about 5 mins.

    Dries with no residue, bubbles roll out easily for 30 mins with a hard rubber brayer or felt squeegee.

    But you do have to squeegee out all the fluid.

    I use it for cab decals and mylar.

    #161 26 days ago

    Sweet and I like Rapid tac here too. But haven't tried on mylar. Great to know!

    #162 24 days ago

    My original mini playfield is perfect, a 9.9/10. Think I should just go with that rather than swapping everything to the Mirco board?

    #163 24 days ago

    My original mini playfield is perfect, a 9.9/10. Think I should just go with that rather than swapping everything to the Mirco board?

    The bulbs are REALLY difficult to install into these type of sockets, now I have some repair work to do.

    I broke off a tab. Used 1/4” of a diode to make the repair. Be careful when replacing with LEDs. Very tight.

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    #164 24 days ago
    Quoted from RCSP:

    My original mini playfield is perfect, a 9.9/10. Think I should just go with that rather than swapping everything to the Mirco board?
    The bulbs are REALLY difficult to install into these type of sockets, now I have some repair work to do.
    I broke off a tab. Used 1/4” of a diode to make the repair. Be careful when replacing with LEDs. Very tight.
    [quoted image]
    [quoted image]

    I stuck with my original POA... and there is a good chance your POA is not drilled right. Mirco’s first run were made for the early prototype POA with the steel side rails and not the more common plastic sides.

    With these bulbs...

    Sometimes they go in better one way vs. the other.

    You should be using “flex” bulbs on those A-D-V-E-N-T-U-R-E inserts. Although those frosteds do a good job diffusing and dispersing the light... they are more suited for a vertical mount. The flex bulbs allow you to really place the LED perfectly upward within the inserts where side mounted sockets are used.

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    #165 23 days ago
    Quoted from Ricochet:

    I stuck with my original POA... and there is a good chance your POA is not drilled right. Mirco’s first run were made for the early prototype POA with the steel side rails and not the more common plastic sides.
    With these bulbs...
    Sometimes they go in better one way vs. the other.
    You should be using “flex” bulbs on those A-D-V-E-N-T-U-R-E inserts. Although those frosteds do a good job diffusing and dispersing the light... they are more suited for a vertical mount. The flex bulbs allow you to really place the LED perfectly upward within the inserts where side mounted sockets are used.
    [quoted image]

    Dual flex heads on the big inserts

    #166 23 days ago

    I bought 10 flex bulbs, that's just enough to do the main board. They gave me a code for free shipping on my next order, and a tootsie roll or two

    #167 23 days ago

    These holes are drilled too far apart so the screws are leaning inward

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    #168 23 days ago
    Quoted from RCSP:

    These holes are drilled too far apart so the screws are leaning inward
    [quoted image]

    You have the wrong red lanes guide so that’s why they are not fitting. Check out the pic on ipdb.org to see correct ones.

    #169 23 days ago
    Quoted from RCSP:

    These holes are drilled too far apart so the screws are leaning inward
    [quoted image]

    Way wrong lane guides!

    #170 23 days ago
    Quoted from pinballinreno:

    Way wrong lane guides!

    I have the originals and they are the same size. But there were several hacked parts on this game. Which is the correct part I need to order?

    Thanks!

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    #171 23 days ago

    Here’s the one you need... Williams # 03-7034-9

    #172 17 days ago

    This goes on the very back of the pf and it’s on the super small coil assembly that pulls open a gate. Is this a 10-194? I found it on Marco but it doesn’t say the length. I need 1.75”

    Thanks

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    #173 15 days ago
    Quoted from RCSP:

    This goes on the very back of the pf and it’s on the super small coil assembly that pulls open a gate. Is this a 10-194? I found it on Marco but it doesn’t say the length. I need 1.75”
    Thanks
    [quoted image]

    Yup ... there are two gates and those are the only two of that particular spring on the game.

    #174 15 days ago

    I'm not sure what the difference is in the coil stop, and which switch type I need, HELP

    https://www.pinballlife.com/full-flipper-assembly-for-williamsbally-machines-from-021992-to-101998.html

    Thanks again!

    #175 15 days ago
    Quoted from RCSP:

    I'm not sure what the difference is in the coil stop, and which switch type I need, HELP
    https://www.pinballlife.com/full-flipper-assembly-for-williamsbally-machines-from-021992-to-101998.html
    Thanks again!

    Flipper coil FL-11629 with Coil Stop A-12390 and a Normally Open switch

    #176 15 days ago

    I noticed my original coils were both 11630 which is weaker. I’d rather have the power.

    My uncle died he was 90. He wasn’t in good health. He had gastrointestinal covid which I’ve never heard of.

    #177 15 days ago
    Quoted from RCSP:

    My uncle died he was 90. He wasn’t in good health. He had gastrointestinal covid which I’ve never heard of.

    Oh man I'm sorry to hear that.

    #178 8 days ago

    Totally off topic but this post shows I’m alive. Got this for my T2. Was about $10 total on eBay.

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    #179 7 days ago

    Got my Pinball life package. Another $296 dang but I bought 8 flipper coils and those lane guides and I needed the spring I had asked about. So slowly making progress. I’m installing the flippers now. I don’t like how the wiring is all bunched up in the lower left.

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    #180 7 days ago

    There is actually quite a bit of freedom with the wiring... don’t be afraid to wrangle it where you want... plus it starts to clean itself up when you start getting everything connected.

    I can’t tell you how many factory zip ties I removed and wire that I rejiggered.

    You’re also working on it in the machine so you are fighting gravity throughout the process. Use some ties to hold it in place where you need the extra slack.

    #181 1 day ago

    I decided to clean up my game room. It’s in the lowest level of a Tri-Level so it’s damp and spiders love it. I watch my sister’s dog a lot and the dog pees under the games, usually under T2 I guess she didn’t like the movie.

    Besides the games in the picture, I have JD which needs a shop job, AF which is 99% ready to play, CFTBL my last project that just needs to have the playfield populated after a pf swap, MB which is great except the decals are junk on the cabinet and the back box, and my prized possession a beautiful CV which is so mint that jefflange1967 played one ball and turned it off. I asked why he stopped playing, he said “it’s too nice to play”.

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    #182 1 day ago
    Quoted from RCSP:

    I decided to clean up my game room. It’s in the lowest level of a Tri-Level so it’s damp and spiders love it. I watch my sister’s dog a lot and the dog pees under the games, usually under T2 I guess she didn’t like the movie.
    Besides the games in the picture, I have JD which needs a shop job, AF which is 99% ready to play, CFTBL my last project that just needs to have the playfield populated after a pf swap, MB which is great except the decals are junk on the cabinet and the back box, and my prized possession a beautiful CV which is so mint that jefflange1967 played one ball and turned it off. I asked why he stopped playing, he said “it’s too nice to play”.
    [quoted image][quoted image]

    Wow!!! Super nice collection you have there!!!

    #183 1 day ago

    Thanks I appreciate that. jefflange1967 used to have 140 or so games and all of the top 20 best games. I bought quite a few from him before he moved to Florida.

    #184 1 day ago

    Judge Dredd was in storage. I’m going to get it working soon (after IJ). I set it up, it’s not too bad. The front by the coin door has some dingers but the rest of the game is pretty nice.

    Tomorrow more cleaning then back to IJ!

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