To followup on @filthyrich's advice...

All of your lamp sockets should use the following screws:
https://www.pinballlife.com/6-x-38-unslotted-hex-head-screw.html

All of your mechanical assemblies should use the following screws:
https://www.pinballlife.com/6-x-12-unslotted-hex-head-screw.html

Always check the clearance of the screw you are using to make sure it won't breach the surface of the playfield... when in doubt... use the shorter screw For example I noticed that my newer 1/2" screws were a tad longer than the originals AND since I had sanded the back of my playfield... I was concerned that I was on the edge of maybe poking through... so I used the small screws for the switch brackets and cable L brackets. To your point about the L brackets only using one screw... In some cases I added a second screw to sturdy it up.

That is the correct placement. That yellow pigtail is the return for the GI of your pop bumpers.

B9EDD7F8-B028-437B-8633-ADD970200B5D (resized).jpeg

You’re welcome. You’ll find it will pick up steam pretty quickly. I had a few hiccups along the way (mainly waiting for replacement parts and my decision to make an acrylic backboard) that slowed me down. This process really shows you the magnitude of manual labor that was involved in making these machines. If modern pinball companies had to build them like this we would be paying many thousands more for them. I can’t wait to do my next one... just need to take a break and rejuvenate

I’m not sure if the repro playfield has the mylar dotted line indicator or not? That helps with guidance. I put mylar around the pop bumpers and where the ball drops from the POA playfield.. and where the ball drops out of the wire ramps.

I got my Mylar from eBay:
https://ebay.us/X3iMED

You’ll find that listing shows the placement of the major pieces.

Oh man... I had a ton of micro-f'ups along the way. They all feel like some sort of major setback ... but end up being small potatoes. When I installed the mylar, I taped it down into position along the halfway mark then cut back the backing off. I applied the first half then removed the tape and the other half of the backing and applied the second... working it slowly. There were a few bubbles I carefully popped with the x-acto knife. After I got it all down I used a hair drier to soften it to get a good adhesion (I read that somewhere here). A coat of wax or two can help keep that adhesive from clinging to the playfield.

This will be but a blink of an eye in terms of your entire project.

That looks very good. If I had to pick one thing about the entire project to dislike... its refinishing the steel, especially the odd shaped pieces.

Everything on a WPC machine is discrete. You've got a matrix of switch and lamp wires going from each switch/led and a daisy chained common connected back to the driver board in the head. If you look at a modern Stern machine for example, they use a SPI bus architecture. This allows one pair of wires to service up to 256 io pins (I think that's the SPI limit). So its more of a networked design... you have a bus architecture... more complex (because of the bus abstraction) but a lot less wiring. All of the WPC logic runs on 5V ttl. This provides a very robust design... but ... 5V logic needs more power than today's conventional 3.3V logic (modernization here is actually a good thing... less power... less heat... more capacity). Consequently with WPC you have lots of heavy gauge wire == $$.

As far as lamps/leds... each led on a modern pin is just on a small PCB... makes it super cheap to manufacture. Those little LED PCBs are pennies in quantities.

Roll over switches have two screws that hold them onto the playfield and two screws that hold them onto the steel bracket. Nowadays, plastic bracket, spring grip push nuts.

Look at the woodworking... mitered cuts, cabinet grade plywood. Stern doesn't even use wood on the back box anymore. JJP puts more into their machines... but you're paying for it too.

Lots of little subtle things like the gauge of the steel in all of the mechanism.

Tons and tons and tons of fasteners.... this equals labor.

Take a look at the underbelly of a Chicago Gaming Remake and its original WPC design... you will see how much more it is integrated.

Yeah you can’t really simplify the mechanics all that much

Never done it... but this method seems safe enough...When you've got it cleaned... put a coat of wax on it, this will prevent the adhesive from sticking too much if you ever need to remove it.

Shipping back box metal trim? You sending stuff off for powder-coat or plating?

Hi

I am hoping someone may be able to help me please. I am seeking a left ramp guard for a Williams #IndianaJones, part number 01-11757.

I've been unable to source one in Australia so may have to resort to having one made locally.

Just wondering if anyone might have a pattern or could supply the dimensions for me please?

It seems like a fairly simple manufacture - so I'd ideally like advice on the thickness of the metal and the length, width and curve design along with the dimensions o the tabs that are used for fixing it to the playfield.

Is the metal stainless steel?

Many thanks for all your help.

Regards Jim

image_64295_1 (resized).jpgimage_64295_2 (resized).jpgimage_64295_3 (resized).jpg

Left Ramp Guard Dimensions.pdf

That is a good idea !

This is Brushed Stainless Steel (304 series) @ .048 thickness.
ij-rampshield (resized).jpg

ittpa-rampshieldbend.pdf

RCSP ... how is the adhesive removal process going?

Glad that worked out for you!

You may be able to get that paint out with a wire brush. Keeping it as original as possible is always a good thing. Most aftermarket stuff is usually pretty good but it always seems to be slightly off from OEM in my opinion. However if you want to get a new piece mantis is my go to for that stuff, top notch.

https://mantispinball.com/product/misc-u-channel/

rapid-tac adhesive remover.

mylar glue is gone in 60 seconds. no muss, no fuss.

https://www.amazon.com/RapidTac-Rapid-Adhesive-Remover-Fluid_Ounces/dp/B006RU65UG/ref=asc_df_B006RU65UG/

Wow good to know....

I use a plastic razor blade as a mini-scraper to move the glop around and finish with a little naptha.

Freeze spray to separate the mylar from the glue.

Rapid-tac adhesive remover for the glue.

Mylar is generally removed with zero damage and cleaned up in seconds.

Still in the parts ordering and deconstruction phase of the very worn IJ I just purchased. Loving these threads! Please keep taking tons of pics! Ricochet you may be getting hit with questions as this project proceeds!

Hello. I don't have anything useful to contribute, but I'm very interested in watching your project, and posting this will very helpfully allow me to quickly find this thread in "topics in which I've posted."

That is all. Good luck!

u can provide all the great decals for the game

Yes that is a fairly benign add.

I love my Dewalt cordless screwdriver! I used it more for tear down but it is one of my favorite light duty tools.

I purchased my back box lock and and lock plate kit from marcospecialties and there was no issue with fit. Pinballlife clearly has the same stuff... perhaps they sent you the wrong one by accident? I would check with them, its a pretty common part and you should have no problem with fit.

I wouldn't add water. I didn't use metal oxide media... I used crushed walnut media. https://www.harborfreight.com/25-lbs-fine-grade-walnut-shell-blast-media-92155.html
No dust... it absorbs the polish nicely.

I used the same vibrator tumbler... it died on the last bit of parts I had to polish... good thing it was cheap.

Double check your assembly... there are a couple of ways it can go together wrong and kind of still function.

Also... be sure to de-burr your threaded holes ... that can keep your halves from fitting properly.

ECF42749-2F03-41D7-AA26-7E59BD561B8D (resized).jpeg