I have finished applying the decals. I used the dry method on one side, and Rapid-Tac on the other side.
Both sides I aligned perfectly and then put down a thick towel and placed the power supply on the towel to prevent the decal from moving. I folded back the decal away from the backing and cut it about a foot from the coin door end of the decal (I started at the coin door and worked to the left toward the back). Starting at the coin door allowed me to align the red lines on the artwork. I folded back the decal 3' before I cut the backing because when you cut it you get little paper fibers that have static electricity and they love to stick to the back of the decal. After I cut the 1' piece I vacuumed the cabinet again to make sure no paper fibers were left on the cabinet. I then took the 1' piece of the backing and overlapped it under the decal so 6" of the decal was not covered. Then I rolled out the decal and stuck down the 6" piece of decal. Then I removed the power supply. The overlapped 6" piece of decal (that is detached, was cut off earlier) makes it easier to remove the backing from the decal. Hard to explain sorry! I left the unattached decal layed out flat, as I removed the backing the backing made a 'U' and was being pulled away from the coin door. I pressed the decal down with my fingers and unrolled maybe 6" at a time. I had no real air bubbles, just make sure you work from the edge of the decal and only do 6" at a time or less. If you lay down a big section of decal you may get air bubbles. But going just a few inches at a time worked for me.
The Rapid-Tac side I had positioned the decal exactly as I wanted it so I did not need to shift the decal. I think it would have shifted if I had needed it to. I do see a scratch in the decal from my squeegee, not too bad but it sucks.
The worst part was actually cutting the edges. The plywood isn't perfect so you need to cut about 1/8" from the edge. I free handed some of it and if you look close you can tell it's not perfect. Where I free handed cut it's right on the edge of the plywood so I could use a straight edge and cut 1/8" from the edge if I want to. I bought a 5' piece of aluminum from Ace Hardware to help with cutting a straight line. Some cuts I could hold the aluminum with clamps, others I could not use clamps so make sure the aluminum doesn't shift while cutting. I think if I did it again I'd hold down the 5' aluminum with pipe clamps and I'd get a cleaner edge. I think I may do this, pretty good idea!
Another sucky part was using a paint pen using the aluminum as my straight edge. The ink bled under the aluminum and that was panic mode. All I had handy was some isopropyl alcohol which actually worked pretty well removing the ink.
I guess the good news is I can finally start reassembling!