(Topic ID: 267418)

Indiana Jones playfield swap and restoration


By RCSP

74 days ago



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  • 144 posts
  • 13 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 2 hours ago by Ricochet
  • Topic is favorited by 12 Pinsiders

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    There are 144 posts in this topic. You are on page 1 of 3.
    #1 74 days ago

    I bought this beat up Williams Indiana Jones about 10 years ago. I remember playing it just a few times and then I started taking it apart. I removed parts of the playfield, and some parts under the playfield, and threw everything in a box.

    Now it's 10 years later, I have the box of parts but no pictures to remember how it goes together. When I bought it the old owner (idiot) ran a long screw into the bottom of the PF to hold the flipper base metal piece in place (see the pic with "Shorty"). The screw didn't break through the PF but it did raise it and ruin it. I was just about to have the PF repaired when a nice guy here on Pinside told me that Mirco just released some IJ playfields. I ordered one right away, and it arrived VERY quickly from Germany. Excellent packaging too. Very nice!

    I'm about 2 weeks into my restoration, right now I have a bare cabinet that's beat up. Right now I have glued the backbox corners, and am repairing a big dinger in the cabinet. Tomorrow I have to glue the corners of the cabinet and paint the backbox.

    Some wiring was flaky - as in wires just hanging and not attached to anything. So I'm sure I'll have questions soon. I'm using the Ricochet and MOF restoration posts as my guide (thanks!).
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    #2 74 days ago

    I don't know if I would call it "COVID inspired" on my end but the forced home-time has me also fixing my Indy . Now if I can just find a good topper for it (kinda thinking about just getting a Fedora and a bullwhip)..

    #3 74 days ago

    I added links to all of the photos that I took throughout my restoration on the first page of my restoration thread. You can just browse them directly that way... and there are quite a few more than what I have posted.

    #4 73 days ago

    I removed all of the decals today. Glued the last 2 corners that needed to be pulled together. Tomorrow I hope to be able to put on the first coat of Kilz.

    #5 72 days ago

    I’ve got an issue with the cabinet. You can see exactly where I scraped off the decals. I’m trying to sand off the Kilz primer. I can feel the lines you can see in the picture, they are raised slightly. I’ve sanded and sanded and sanded. The orbital sander I bought yesterday (Bosch) plugs up every 2 minutes. The spots on the sandpaper are easy to remove with a razor blade, just scrape over the spots and they come right off. I’m not willing to put on a new $1 piece of sandpaper every 2 minutes . I need some advice, I think I need to sand with more coarse sandpaper to remove those high spots but would like some input. Thanks!

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    #6 72 days ago

    That is the glue that held the vinyl substrate onto the cabinet. You have to sand that off. Use a more aggressive grit... 80... then work your way back to 320. Some people use stripper... I don't like putting goop on the wood but it does work.

    Its a bitch but it will come off.

    #7 71 days ago

    Thanks I’ll give it a try!

    #8 71 days ago

    The sanding was taking a LONG time, I'd estimate 5+ hours per side if I continued. I had 80 grit that's the roughest they had at Lowes. So I did a little reading and someone said try acetone. It works pretty well. I think it will still take 60-90 minutes per side. Lots of rubbing and it evaporates in 30 seconds so I am constantly pouring more on the cleaning cloth. I think the fumes may kill me so tomorrow I'll take that cabinet outside, it's supposed to be about 70 degrees tomorrow. Hopefully I can get it stripped, sanded a little and a coat of Kilz.

    #9 71 days ago

    I'd probably hit it with the heat gun and the scraper a bit more before the acetone... you'd be surprised at the amount of heat you can put to it without damaging the wood. But yeah... acetone is one of my favorite solvents... it is a terrific thinner too. When you take the metal brackets out of your back-box soak them in acetone for about 1/2 day... the paint will rub right off and they will shine up nicely.

    #10 66 days ago

    Do you think this is smooth enough at the top of the picture? I did some late sanding there so it’s not as smooth as the rest. You can see the wood grain. It’s quite smooth but definitely not as smooth as the lower part of the picture (which is the top of the back box).

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    #11 63 days ago

    I used a heat gun a little and mostly acetone. Acetone and gloves and a few razor blades. Better work fast, the acetone evaporates in 15 seconds. It makes a mess, the acetone+paint+glue makes a gooey mixture.

    I have the backbox and cabinet painted, decals soon.

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    #12 62 days ago

    I put on the right side decal on the back box. Definitely can see every flaw underneath. I thought it was super smooth but I guess not. Hard to see the minor bumps in the pic. Some were in the graphic. I used the dry method and clamped the decal in place. Attached the lower half then removed the clamps and did the top.

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    #13 62 days ago

    I usually spray paint the sides with good primer, then top it with hard enamel paint (black), with wet sanding in between coats (~320-400 grit). Then apply decals.

    #14 61 days ago

    Thanks, I'll try that on the other side!

    1 week later
    #15 50 days ago

    I applied the door decal tonight. 90 min job because I'm trying to make it perfect. Cutting the round holes is the hard part.

    #16 46 days ago

    I have finished applying the decals. I used the dry method on one side, and Rapid-Tac on the other side.

    Both sides I aligned perfectly and then put down a thick towel and placed the power supply on the towel to prevent the decal from moving. I folded back the decal away from the backing and cut it about a foot from the coin door end of the decal (I started at the coin door and worked to the left toward the back). Starting at the coin door allowed me to align the red lines on the artwork. I folded back the decal 3' before I cut the backing because when you cut it you get little paper fibers that have static electricity and they love to stick to the back of the decal. After I cut the 1' piece I vacuumed the cabinet again to make sure no paper fibers were left on the cabinet. I then took the 1' piece of the backing and overlapped it under the decal so 6" of the decal was not covered. Then I rolled out the decal and stuck down the 6" piece of decal. Then I removed the power supply. The overlapped 6" piece of decal (that is detached, was cut off earlier) makes it easier to remove the backing from the decal. Hard to explain sorry! I left the unattached decal layed out flat, as I removed the backing the backing made a 'U' and was being pulled away from the coin door. I pressed the decal down with my fingers and unrolled maybe 6" at a time. I had no real air bubbles, just make sure you work from the edge of the decal and only do 6" at a time or less. If you lay down a big section of decal you may get air bubbles. But going just a few inches at a time worked for me.

    The Rapid-Tac side I had positioned the decal exactly as I wanted it so I did not need to shift the decal. I think it would have shifted if I had needed it to. I do see a scratch in the decal from my squeegee, not too bad but it sucks.

    The worst part was actually cutting the edges. The plywood isn't perfect so you need to cut about 1/8" from the edge. I free handed some of it and if you look close you can tell it's not perfect. Where I free handed cut it's right on the edge of the plywood so I could use a straight edge and cut 1/8" from the edge if I want to. I bought a 5' piece of aluminum from Ace Hardware to help with cutting a straight line. Some cuts I could hold the aluminum with clamps, others I could not use clamps so make sure the aluminum doesn't shift while cutting. I think if I did it again I'd hold down the 5' aluminum with pipe clamps and I'd get a cleaner edge. I think I may do this, pretty good idea!

    Another sucky part was using a paint pen using the aluminum as my straight edge. The ink bled under the aluminum and that was panic mode. All I had handy was some isopropyl alcohol which actually worked pretty well removing the ink.

    I guess the good news is I can finally start reassembling!

    #17 46 days ago

    Not gonna lie I found installing decals very stressful. Interesting... "paper fibers that stick to the back of the decal"... where did you get your decals? The paper backing on mine cut very clean and did't leave any debris at all.

    It's a wonderful feeling having it done though.

    #18 45 days ago

    They were RadCals. Might be because I used a scissors and not a razor blade.

    #19 45 days ago
    Quoted from RCSP:

    They were RadCals. Might be because I used a scissors and not a razor blade.

    Oh... ok I've never dealt with RadCals before. I've only seen threads on them. Aren't they fairly rigid.. and somewhat fault tolerant of the cabinet surface? ... unlike traditional decals which are very thin vinyl.... and will show the cabinet imperfections. But then again... I've no experience with RadCals so what the heck do I know anyway

    #20 42 days ago

    I've only used RadCals, so not sure if thicker than others. I would say they were thick and pretty easy to manage. The sticker didn't leave fragments, just the backing.

    #21 42 days ago

    The power supply has 8 plastic bushings where the bolts go through it. Are those needed? I have 4 and another 4 were broken.

    #22 40 days ago
    Quoted from RCSP:

    The power supply has 8 plastic bushings where the bolts go through it. Are those needed? I have 4 and another 4 were broken.

    Power supply? I’m not sure what aspect you are referring to. When I think of the power supply I’m thinking the power entry box ... the transformer and the WPC driver board.

    #23 40 days ago

    I mean the transformer, that huge brick! Thanks. The 8 fragile hard off-white plastic bushings that go into the mounting brackets and slightly into the transformer.

    #24 40 days ago

    Pic

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    #25 40 days ago

    I have to make a new 5 pin connector for the ball trough opto. I bought this connector from PinballLife. Is there a special tool I need to attach the wires?

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    #27 40 days ago
    Quoted from RCSP:

    I mean the transformer, that huge brick! Thanks. The 8 fragile hard off-white plastic bushings that go into the mounting brackets and slightly into the transformer.

    On my transformer there are only 4 ... one under each screw head (like your pic)... on the other side there are only kep nuts.

    #28 40 days ago

    I never realized they only used 4. Thanks for the info. Also thanks Chad for the link.

    I got the lines pretty close

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    #29 40 days ago
    Quoted from RCSP:

    I never realized they only used 4. Thanks for the info. Also thanks Chad for the link.
    I got the lines pretty close
    [quoted image]

    Very nice indeed!

    #30 36 days ago

    I had a delay with Indy. Btw on Sunday night the movie was on TV.

    My well pressure tank finally died. Made it 48 years. Here is my new tank I installed. Took forever I had never used PEX before. Lots of little leaks in the copper fittings, switched to pipe dope and ditched the Teflon tape to fix them.

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    #31 36 days ago

    More $$$$ Pinball Life likes me. I’m up to about $1000 in the last month. Got a new rear glass mount, lockdown bar, new bolts. Look at the old big one that’s just to show how big they used to be. Already replaced round targets so now all will be new.

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    #32 33 days ago

    OMG $35 for that little thing? I think i'll use the Molex crimper. I do appreciate the link though

    #33 33 days ago
    Quoted from RCSP:

    OMG $35 for that little thing? I think i'll use the Molex crimper. I do appreciate the link though

    I'm with you there, I've always went with molex. Never liked IDC.

    #34 32 days ago

    What’s the best way to fix these pieces? Do they sell the material used to wrap them?

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    #35 32 days ago

    It’s hard to see with the fluorescent lighting but I painted these hammered gold

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    #36 32 days ago
    Quoted from RCSP:

    What’s the best way to fix these pieces? Do they sell the material used to wrap them?
    [quoted image][quoted image]

    I've never tried or heard of anyone trying to re-wrap or fix those...

    You can buy that railing by the foot from pinballlife you will need to cut it to length and drill it yourself :
    https://www.pinballlife.com/black-vinyl-wrapped-wood-rail-for-playfield-edges-1-18-x-12.html

    Or you could go with new lacquer coated solid oak, pre-cut pre-drilled from Reese Rails taylorva : https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/oak-replacement-playfield-rails-wh2o-and-taf-ready-to-ship-or-york#post-1944096

    Reese Rails is the better option... a bit more pricey so it’s a budget call... but they do look great and won’t ever peel apart.

    #37 31 days ago

    Thanks for the links. I never knew about Reese Rails, pretty cool.

    #38 31 days ago

    Does anyone know if I can see how many of these posts are used by IJ? I did a part lookup on Pinball Life, but there was no match for the post in this link

    https://www.pinballlife.com/1-716-tall-metal-post-with-cutaway-with-wood-screw-base.html

    I'm not sure where they go either, some were already removed when I started this project.

    Thanks!

    #39 31 days ago
    Quoted from RCSP:

    Does anyone know if I can see how many of these posts are used by IJ? I did a part lookup on Pinball Life, but there was no match for the post in this link
    https://www.pinballlife.com/1-716-tall-metal-post-with-cutaway-with-wood-screw-base.html
    I'm not sure where they go either, some were already removed when I started this project.
    Thanks!

    2 of them ... one goes under the right slingshot plastics to guide the rubber and the other goes above the wire guide on the left outlane.

    playfield (resized).jpg

    #40 31 days ago

    You rock! I'm working on Indy now. Raining and windy. Lights flickering, only a matter of time until I lose power.

    #41 31 days ago

    I’m making progress

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    #42 31 days ago
    Quoted from RCSP:

    You rock! I'm working on Indy now. Raining and windy. Lights flickering, only a matter of time until I lose power.

    Sounds exciting ... for me populating the playfield was the most fun of the entire project.... least fun... painting and cleaning metal fitments.

    I have these links in my thread... but since you are in the thick of it...here are all my photos... they may come in handy if you need a quick reference:
    https://photos.app.goo.gl/PKPTgfgCzVQE7CAc8
    https://photos.app.goo.gl/YqD2j2eZacimqy3g9

    #43 30 days ago

    Those pics will help a lot ricochet because I have no clue how the playfield goes together! I saw you greasing the transmission and I forgot all about that. UGGG.

    How did you get the metal ramps so shiny? I have a friend with a bead blaster but that makes the surface so every fingerprint shows.

    #44 30 days ago

    Ricochet is a stud....very helpful in anything IJ

    #45 30 days ago
    Quoted from RCSP:

    Those pics will help a lot ricochet because I have no clue how the playfield goes together! I saw you greasing the transmission and I forgot all about that. UGGG.
    How did you get the metal ramps so shiny? I have a friend with a bead blaster but that makes the surface so every fingerprint shows.

    I used this to take away the ball trails:

    DEWALT Flap Wheel, 3-Inch x 1-Inch x 1/4-Inch HP, 240-Grit (DAFE1H2410) amazon.com link »

    I used this to polish:

    3M Scotch-Brite Fine-Finishing Sander (9416NA) amazon.com link »

    For stuff that I couldn’t use the wheel for, I used 400 grit wet sandpaper and a maroon scuff pad from the auto parts store.

    Depending upon how deep your trails are you may need to get a more aggressive grit.

    The scuff pad can be used to finish up any surface even if you don’t get it quite right with the wheel. I found it to work very well.

    It’s an elbow grease job

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    #46 30 days ago

    Thanks. Elbow grease takes time.....but what else is there to do?

    #47 30 days ago

    I'm not sure what to use to attach the large metal brackets that attach at the bottom (near the player) that hold up the PF when you pull the PF out a foot and set it down. I have the close end attached with the bracket that stops the PF from going down into the cabinet (also holds apron), but the bracket at the far end goes into a hole that goes through the PF. I suppose it's a screw with a washer and a nut, and something on the PF must hide it.

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    #48 30 days ago

    I marked the new PF so I knew which way the brackets pointed and what size of plastic loop it used. I painted the brackets hammered gold rustoleum #7210 I believe.

    I thought it was odd on the original pf only one screw was used for each bracket, the other hold was predrilled but never had a screw in the hole.

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    #49 30 days ago
    Quoted from RCSP:

    I'm not sure what to use to attach the large metal brackets that attach at the bottom (near the player) that hold up the PF when you pull the PF out a foot and set it down. I have the close end attached with the bracket that stops the PF from going down into the cabinet (also holds apron), but the bracket at the far end goes into a hole that goes through the PF. I suppose it's a screw with a washer and a nut, and something on the PF must hide it.[quoted image]

    The right bracket is mounted to the stud on the end of the idol ramp.

    The left bracket is mounted on the middle stud of the steel ball guide on the left.

    #50 30 days ago

    I've just finished doing an Addams family playfield swap. You have probably noticed that there are predominately two sizes of screws used under the playfield. As a general rule of thumb, the longer screws are used to hold things that move or come in contact with the ball (targets, slingshots, motors etc) The shorter screws are used for the other stuff (light sockets, wire terminals etc)
    Hope this helps!

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