(Topic ID: 283654)

Indiana Jones Pinball Adventure Playfield Swap

By Navystan

3 years ago


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There are 78 posts in this topic. You are on page 2 of 2.
#51 3 years ago

Wow... that molex connector is hack city. Person who built it didnt crimp the wires right (insulation goes under first part of crimp). Cut that out and rebuild properly.

Your pf hammer mark repair looks great.

#52 3 years ago
Quoted from flynnibus:

Wow... that molex connector is hack city. Person who built it didnt crimp the wires right (insulation goes under first part of crimp). Cut that out and rebuild properly.

Yep... and that being the GI plug you will want that to be robust, especially if anyone decides to put incandescent bulbs in the machine. If you don't already know, always use trifurcon terminals when you rebuild those. Trifurcon pins have surface area contact on three sides of the header pin which reduces (pretty much eliminates) the likelihood of a high resistive fault (which generates heat) due to poor contact.

Williams should have used heavier gauge wire on the GI harness. One thing I wanted to do on mine (but forgot) was rebuild that harness with 18AWG wire... its overkill but better than that stock 22 AWG.

#53 3 years ago
Quoted from flynnibus:

Wow... that molex connector is hack city. Person who built it didnt crimp the wires right (insulation goes under first part of crimp). Cut that out and rebuild properly.
Your pf hammer mark repair looks great.

Thanks guys. I'm decent with fixing molex connectors. I have to fix this one and several others. This was a known issue before swap. I had some lights out on backglass because of this issue.

Thanks for the shout out for fixing playfield mark.

#54 3 years ago
Quoted from Ricochet:

Yep... and that being the GI plug you will want that to be robust, especially if anyone decides to put incandescent bulbs in the machine. If you don't already know, always use trifurcon terminals when you rebuild those. Trifurcon pins have surface area contact on three sides of the header pin which reduces (pretty much eliminates) the likely hood of a high resistive fault (which generates heat) due to poor contact.
Williams should have used heavier gauge wire on the GI harness. One thing I wanted to do on mine (but forgot) was rebuild that harness with 18AWG wire... its overkill but better than that stock 22 AWG.

Jim, I'm following your advice and setup for bulbs. Will be using clear bulbs and sunlight versions. Also, will be using incandescent flashers on top side, per your advice.

#55 3 years ago
Quoted from Navystan:

Day 10. (2 hours). Major milestone. Removed old playfield by disconnecting wire harness. Yikes. Unlike early games I did, I had to disconnect wires all the way to the coin door and gun. Gun not so bad, but quite a number of wires to left side of coin door. I took a lot of pictures, but it's going to be tough putting back together. Also, I have 3-4 connectors with loose wires that will need to be fixed, due to wires coming out or very loose.
I also removed ball eject mech from mode hole. Lesson learned that I forgot with other playfield swaps. These kickers never seem to be aligned. I had pre-drilled and it doesn't line up right on new playfield. So, I need to refill (I use glue and toothpicks to refill) and redo holes after I manually align mech. This is the reason I don't pre-drill stand up targets either. Better to wait. I noticed pops were slightly off, but good enough, so I used existing dimples.
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Just so you know, only three of the five harnesses go to the playfield. The other two go to the cabinet and do not have to be disconnected to remove the playfield.

#56 3 years ago
Quoted from Bryan_Kelly:

Just so you know, only three of the five harnesses go to the playfield. The other two go to the cabinet and do not have to be disconnected to remove the playfield.

Yikes. Guess I took too many out. Oh well. Thanks for the tip for future swaps.

#57 3 years ago
Quoted from Navystan:

Jim, I'm following your advice and setup for bulbs. Will be using clear bulbs and sunlight versions. Also, will be using incandescent flashers on top side, per your advice.

Color match inserts, warm white frosted for GI. SMD 1 for me.

1 week later
#58 3 years ago

Day 10 (2 hours). Took a week off waiting for parts including a new Rotisserie. This new tool will permit me to populate new playfield with just about everything while it's on the Rotisserie. In the past, this wasn't possible. I took off the slider mech from the old playfield and put onto new playfield. Then, I was able to use the new rotisserie.

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#59 3 years ago

Day 13. (1 hour). Trying to get back into a rhythm again. Took quite a bit of time off during Christmas, so it's a bit hard jumping back in to where I was. So, spent a little time reviewing my pictures to determine where I left off. Had to patch some holes under playfield to re-align ball eject under mode hole. The dimpled holes where off and I pre-drilled thinking they were good. Not so. So, used toothpick method to fill up holes. Will snip down and sand once fully dried. Also finished target bank. Had already cleaned, but needed target decals and got new targets while I was at it. Also installed new lane guides. Off and running again.

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#60 3 years ago
Quoted from Navystan:

Day 10 (2 hours). Took a week off waiting for parts including a new Rotisserie. This new tool will permit me to populate new playfield with just about everything while it's on the Rotisserie. In the past, this wasn't possible. I took off the slider mech from the old playfield and put onto new playfield. Then, I was able to use the new rotisserie.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Just so you know, in order to install the wood side rails on the top of the playfield, you'll need to remove the slide mechs on the bottom side.

Might be easier to do that before you go any further.

#61 3 years ago

Looking good Navy Stan!

#62 3 years ago
Quoted from Bryan_Kelly:

Just so you know, in order to install the wood side rails on the top of the playfield, you'll need to remove the slide mechs on the bottom side.
Might be easier to do that before you go any further.

Thanks Bryan! I will do exactly as you say, because I can't really install other parts until the siderails are done. So, that will be my next step.

#63 3 years ago

What did you do about the ball guides, did you re-grain them?

#64 3 years ago
Quoted from KozMckPinball:

What did you do about the ball guides, did you re-grain them?

Haven't worked on them yet. Sometimes I do, other times I just clean and use metal polish. But, I have used a bench wheel to apply "harsher" polish, but I don't think I have ever re-grained or know how.

#65 3 years ago

Day 14 (1 hour). Worked another hour and per Bryan_Kelly I moved backboard and side rails.

#66 3 years ago

Day 15 (1 hour). Did final repair on kicker for mode hole. Had to fill in holes, sand, and re-drill new holes to make everything line up. Good to go!

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3 months later
#67 2 years ago

Wow, it was a long break. Last time I reported in, it was 3 months ago. I have spent the last two weeks moving harness over from old playfield to new, reconnecting to new playfield, and cleaning a few mechs like the single target, flipper mechs, and then connecting all the coils back up. Now, under playfield is completely done. Now, the fun part of reassembling the top.

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3 weeks later
#68 2 years ago

I'm in the home stretch. After a quiet winter, finally turning up the heat to complete. I prepped some last mechs and hand polished many parts and replaced the main ramp. Ready to put back in the machine and do finally testing.

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#69 2 years ago

Looking Great Stan!!

#70 2 years ago

Nice job. Where did you get that rotisserie from?

#72 2 years ago

Ive got Pindoc rotisseries in stock ready to ship. Send me a PM for availability.

Looking good stan man i wish i had an IJ.

#73 2 years ago

Well, after 6 months, the swap is done. Many thanks to Ricochet who is the gold standard for Indy restorations. Also, a lot of help at the end from mbelofsky who told me a thousand times to label the connectors. Because I didn't, I spent 8 hours trying to figure out issues that were related to not putting in connectors correctly.

But, everything works (some minor tweaks to do) and I can play again. Will be sharing my lessons learned soon to help others not make the same mistakes I made and ideas for making your restoration go as smoothly as possible.

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#74 2 years ago

Wow that is beautiful!

#75 2 years ago

Well done. It looks great!

#76 2 years ago

Love it !

#77 2 years ago

Wow that mirrored backglass looks amazing! Well done!

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