Yet another documented playfield swap for IJPA.

For the past 3 years, I've been looking for an IJPA. Finally pulled the trigger on a partially restored one. The one I got had a sold cabinet with new decals installed. Boards in decent shape. Currently has Rottendog driver board, but I have Coin-op fixing the original board.

I purchased new reproduction playfield from Mirco. Looks to be in great shape.

I've done a few swaps on older pins (Bally ST, High Speed, and Space Shuttle), but never a more modern pin. In many respects, I think it will be easier since there are not extensive ground braids.

My strategy is to do individual sections one at a time and add molex connectors for key mechs like slingshots and pop bumpers. I may even do more, but at least those key ones. A little more up front work, but in the end will make cleaning and moving much easier. Also, I much prefer any soldering work off the playfield, not while things are attached.

As I go, I will sonic clean all parts and polish where warranted. Anything seen or involved in mechanics will get plenty of TLC.

Will capture lessons learned and parts I used and added and where I purchased to help the next guys.

Feedback and recommendations are welcome.

I will post iCloud links to all my pictures to document work.

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Thanks for the heads up.

Day 2 (2nd day working on pin), I worked about 3 hours today and about 3 hours the first day. Total hours to date, 6 hours. I'm finding this new approach easier to keep track of parts. When I did my previous swaps, I completely removed topside before adding to new playfield. This time, I'm taking off sections, cleaning, and then installing to new playfield where I can.

You can see, I have done the lower half topside of the pin. I'm cleaning using a sonic cleaner and in some cases, especially for metal parts, I'm using a metal polish cleaner as well.

Some parts will have to come up for lights, but this approach makes it easier to keep things together.

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Yes, mostly hand polishing. But, I do have a harbor freight tumbler. Been sitting in my shop, never used.

Day 3 (2.5 hours of work). Focused on cleaning and moving Idol parts and mechs. I like how these modern games have a lot of molex connectors so mechs don't have to be desoldered and soldered. Cleaned up Idol base and even took apart all the optos and cleaned all associated parts. Moved cleaned parts to new playfield. My Idol base had some "ball wear" near exit. After cleaning, I put down a piece of mylar to prohibit future wear.

Next day, will likely take off POA. Hopefully, in 2 or 3 more days, will have all topside parts removed, cleaned, and moved to new playfield.

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Day 3.1 (did another hour to take off POA, bridge and a few other parts). Manual tells you exactly how to take off POA. Just need to take off metal ramp, plastics, and habit trails and done with topside.

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Day 4 (3.5 hours). Focused on upper right area. Cleaned and moved right habit trails and posts. Also removed some left corner parts and posts. As always, sonic cleaner than hand polish all metal parts. I decided to not hammer any t-nuts. I just put a few oversized washers on one side and tighten until t-nut goes into place. So far, working like a champ.

Tomorrow, plan to mylar pop area, similar to what is done at factory. Topside playfield will be completely stripped by tomorrow.

Here's a list of new parts purchased for this restore and swap:
- New Mirco playfield set (includes POA mini playfield as well)
- New POA ramp
- New star posts
- New plastics
- Titan rubbers, all white
- New POA opto board
- New LED bulbs, all sunlight; NOT non-ghosting since I have installed a new LED OCD board
- Pinsound+
- Flipper fidelity speakers
- PDI non-glare glass
- Flipper rebuild kit
- All New Coil sleeves
- New Ruins plastics around Idol
- Many small items where needed
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Marcospecialties.com

So far, so good, but hard to tell until you start putting back ramps. At least one hole not drilled/dimpled. But, folks warned me that Mirco playfield might be missing a few. No big deal, easy enough to drill a few holes. For the most part, I think the playfield is outstanding, that in comparison to CPR playfields I have had in the past.

Special shout out to Ricochet He has provided a ton of feedback and advice on this project. He is by far the gold standard for a complete restoration project for IJPA. If you haven't seen his restoration project, check it out here: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/indy-restoration-its-not-the-years-honey-its-the-mileage-

His work was absolutely amazing and easily HEP-worthy.

Probably sell. Already have one interested pinsider wanting it once I complete this swap.

Day 5 part 1 (1 hour). Installed mylar, per the factory examples and a few more. So far, I did the main area around pops and single target, POA drop (I think that's what it is), ENT target area, and the ramps. Don't know if there is a way to easily prevent air bubbles, but you can see some. Most of these areas will be completely hidden. The last picture shows it's near impossible to see the air bubbles from the mylar. Looks good enough for me and the best part is I'm protecting the high traffic areas.

Any tips or should I not worry? (@ricochet)?

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Looks like I'm safe and have the normal POA.

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Day 5 Part 2 (4 hours). Removed, cleaned, and moved remaining topside playfield to new playfield. Only parts remaining on top are 3 pop bumpers and in lane guides. Waiting for parts so will move those and add new parts later. Need to drill larger holes to install large posts onto new playfield. While I wait for parts, will start underside and move/clean mechs to new playfield. Getting close to pulling existing playfield from old machine so I can remove remaining parts and install to new playfield.

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Was there when I got it. It seems to dampen the ball and promote less ball rejects (I guess).

I use a hole punch or old Phillips drill bit and a small hammer. Works like a champ. I center the punch on the screw and a few careful strikes knocks it through easily.

Thanks mentioning about the large posts. I wondered too why they don't pre-drill larger. I assume they want to ensure there is no play since these get beat up pretty badly and any play will cause larger holes to develop over time.

How do others approach this? Drill very slowly just enough to keep snug fit?

After playing around with different techniques for installing t-nuts, I finally decided to use a couple of washers and tighten down until t-nut pulls in on the other side. I reach around with other hand to ensure t-nut doesn't twist. Just a little pressure on the t-nut with my hand is enough to tighten down from the other side. I use a small cordless drill to get bolt down quickly and then tighten final phase with a regular screwdriver so I can control the torque more easily. As soon as I feel that t-nut is flush, I quickly back off pressure. So far so good, no "impressions" from the washers being used on the playfield.

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Day 6 (2 hours). Spent a small session getting the large posts (ones with sleeves) to fit. 3/16" good to get threaded part into playfield, but needed 13/64" to get unthreaded portion of post into holes. Saw post above too late. Would have been better not to go all the way through with 13/64", but I'm pretty sure it will be fine.

This weekend, will move underside mechs over to new playfield before I take out old playfield. I have a second rotisserie, so that will make the whole process a little easier.

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Day 7 (2 hours). Short day. Only had time to clean up target bank. Took completely apart. So much grime and grease. I thought these should not have any grease. Does your IJ have grease used on the 3 target bank?

Also played around with colored posts. What do you think? I tried to align colors to main things, like the ramps as opposed to the colors directly under the posts.

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Day 8 (2 hours). Short weekend since family in for Christmas. Did some t-nut prep, moved some underside mechs (sling shot mechs), and some small stand alone boards. Had my one inevitable blunder. While dimpling under playfield, poked a hole through. Will of course fix, but a bummer adding a blemish to the new playfield. Any tips for minor hole repair?

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I fixed most of the issues. Filled in hole, painted, and put down Mylar.

From a normal viewing distance, hard to see now.

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Day 8 (2 hours). Finally got some parts in. Replaced posts and started moving underside mechanisms. Also finished making dimples underside playfield. To ensure I didn’t punch through, I tilted playfield so it was almost vertical I it’s side. That way I was drilling sideways, not above the playfield which caused me to have the issue listed above.

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Day 9 (2 hours). Focus was on the 3 pop bumpers. Used a lot of new parts. Couple of the metal yoke plates were actually broken. Fortunate I had enough in the ready stock. Everything moved, cleaned, and replaced where needed. Still have to tie into light wiring when I move harness over. will clean spoon switches too later on during the harness move.

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Day 10. (2 hours). Major milestone. Removed old playfield by disconnecting wire harness. Yikes. Unlike early games I did, I had to disconnect wires all the way to the coin door and gun. Gun not so bad, but quite a number of wires to left side of coin door. I took a lot of pictures, but it's going to be tough putting back together. Also, I have 3-4 connectors with loose wires that will need to be fixed, due to wires coming out or very loose.

I also removed ball eject mech from mode hole. Lesson learned that I forgot with other playfield swaps. These kickers never seem to be aligned. I had pre-drilled and it doesn't line up right on new playfield. So, I need to refill (I use glue and toothpicks to refill) and redo holes after I manually align mech. This is the reason I don't pre-drill stand up targets either. Better to wait. I noticed pops were slightly off, but good enough, so I used existing dimples.

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