(Topic ID: 278784)

Indiana Jones Keeps blowing Fuse on Power Driver Board

By bmwdriver

3 years ago


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  • 15 posts
  • 5 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 3 years ago by Jgaltr56
  • Topic is favorited by 1 Pinsider

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#1 3 years ago

Upon starting game numerous errors, traced back to Fuse F116 blown. Replaced fuse, played for a while, blown again. Replaced BR5 and C30 filter Cap and again played for a while, and boom fuse blown again. When played from a cold state, game plays 100% for about 10 - 15 mins, then fuse blows, so definitely heat is causing something to fail. I really thought I had it fixed with the BR5 and C30 replacement, but no joy. Any pointers what and where to check next? Thanks for any help.

#2 3 years ago
Quoted from bmwdriver:

Upon starting game numerous errors, traced back to Fuse F116 blown. Replaced fuse, played for a while, blown again. Replaced BR5 and C30 filter Cap and again played for a while, and boom fuse blown again. When played from a cold state, game plays 100% for about 10 - 15 mins, then fuse blows, so definitely heat is causing something to fail. I really thought I had it fixed with the BR5 and C30 replacement, but no joy. Any pointers what and where to check next? Thanks for any help.

If you just turn it on ... let it sit... does the fuse blow on its own... or has it always happened as a result of game play over time?

If it happens as a result of actual game play, you may have an intermittent short on the 12V line that drives your opto transmitters and motors. Inspect around those areas for pinched or bare wire.

If you don't see anything ... run the idol test and min playfield test to see if that causes the fuse to blow.

#3 3 years ago

check the opto board

#4 3 years ago

Feel for hot chip(s)?

#5 3 years ago

Thanks for all the suggestions, I will report back once I have had a chance to try the ideas.

#6 3 years ago

OK, I turned on game and came back in about an hour and found the fuse blown. Did not play the game, so definitely heat related (I would think). I imagine these are the hardest to find. I did not find any of the Bridge Rectifiers hot or other components that I touched on that board hot. Now what? Bad trace on the board that opens when heated/expanded? Why would that blow a fuse if that's the case? Thanks for any additional input.

#7 3 years ago

Swapped Power Driver Board with Twilight Zone Game and Fuse still blows during game play so probably not board but something else.

#8 3 years ago

Do you have some add-on mods installed, that take power from the 12V?

#9 3 years ago
Quoted from Jgaltr56:

check the opto board

Now this ^^^^

You have two opto boards... a 10-sw and 3-sw under the playfield. Section 3-19 and 3-20 of the manual.
https://www.ipdb.org/files/1267/Williams_1993_Indiana_Jones_The_Pinball_Adventure_English_Manual.pdf

You can experiment by unplugging some of the transmitters to see if you can find a possible offender.

#10 3 years ago

I did replace all the lighting with LED last year and also added LED strips at the ball trough and the back of the play field as well as around the speakers. I also added 2 LED spot lights on the playfield (they get their power from lamp sockets below the playfield). The LED strips get power from J117 and J118 via pigtails. I disconnected all and played over an hour no blown fuse. I reconnected one set of LED's and no blown fuse. Once I reconnected all the LED strips after a while BLOWN fuse. So I am assuming this is the culprite. Too much draw? Although I would have thought LED's don't draw that much. Is there another 12v source I can split up the LED's?

Also, I noticed that my Display during play would get corrupt (unreadable) then come back, as well as sound dropping out and coming back, especially at the end of the round when it tallied up the end of the round bonus. May be totally unrelated.

The odd thing is, I have the same mods on my Twilight Zone without these issues.

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#11 3 years ago

All of your GI LEDs are on a different fused lines (6.8VAC... F106-F110).

Why did you connect your LEDs to the 12V line? Are they off the shelf strips or are they from cometpinball? Comet makes led strips that can plug into your GI circuit... which is tough enough to handle it.

That 12V line is also powering your DMD.

#12 3 years ago

I bought a kit from Pinballbulbs.com and that's where it shows to power them from. Is there a better place to power these?

Here is example of installing the back LED strip
https://pinballbulbs.com/installs/wpc-light-strip-installation

my display was acting up even when all the LED strips were disconnected so maybe that is different issue? Didn't happen until I had played for nearly an hour so boards certainly were not cold anymore.

#13 3 years ago
Quoted from bmwdriver:

I bought a kit from Pinballbulbs.com and that's where it shows to power them from. Is there a better place to power these?
Here is example of installing the back LED strip
https://pinballbulbs.com/installs/wpc-light-strip-installation
my display was acting up even when all the LED strips were disconnected so maybe that is different issue? Didn't happen until I had played for nearly an hour so boards certainly were not cold anymore.

You still may have an issue with an opto transmitter pulling too much current... and it’s driving you over the edge.

#14 3 years ago

are there some places on the board where I can measure to see if that is the case?

#15 3 years ago

LED strips can certainly draw enough current to cause problems, especially on the 12V circuit. I always add a separate 12V power supply with an IOT relay plugged into the service port for mods including a ColorDMD.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00WV7GMA2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_fab_ttHFFb8YQPNHA

Regarding optos it's usually the transmitter that fail first so concentrate on those in addition to the opto boards.

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