I am restoring this game, it was fine a week ago. I did install a "Super Ball" switch before the problem started. I don't know if the Slam Tilt started right after I installed the Super Ball switch, it's possible.

I read quite a few other Slam Tilt threads, most say they hit this or hit that and then got the error message. Mine happens on startup. I also get an Idol error and it doesn't turn at startup any more. I tested the cabinet floor tilt switch in the switch test, it did not work. The plumb bob tilt switch does work fine. The contacts are not touching at rest. I unplugged it, still get the Slam Tilt error.

In the switch test the other switches in the Slam Tilt row and column work fine.

Should I fix the Idol issue first?

Thanks for the help!

Thank you @ltg. Here is a pic of the switch. The small rectangular resistor is currently not attached. It was attached to the lug opposite of the blue/gray wire, the lug on the other side of the side shown in the picture.

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This resistor was originally attached when I started my restoration so I attached it.

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It just goes to ground along with the Gray/Yellow wire. The Slam Tilt issue has stopped. No idea why. I was in the Idol test mode, moved a few wires and it started turning. I don't think I was touching anything when it started moving. So I shut off machine, turned on, no Slam Tilt. So I reattached the Slam Tilt switch on the floor of the cabinet and it works in the switch test. The switch works now, just need to get a ground wire so the light works. Thanks so much!

That's awesome, thank you!

Normally I turn off the power to do any soldering. But to attach the resistor I got lazy. As I started to solder the light went on, so I was happy to see it was working. But as soon as I remove the solder iron the light goes out. Now it's soldered on (good connection) and no light. I touch the solder iron to the lug and the light comes on. Is it using the solder iron as a ground? I ran an alligator wire from the lug to ground, no light! I'm not the best with electrical issues.

The solder iron is plugged in but is turned off. When I touch the lug it lights up

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I got 0 volts from the gray/yellow to ground. zaza showed that is power wire. I grounded to the ribbon wire near the start switch. Tried the ribbon wire over near the on/off switch and I got power. Then I found this....

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zaza F116 was blown. I turned off the machine, finished soldering, but turn the machine on and it blows F116. Not sure what I did wrong. I checked the voltage of the gray/yellow at the connector to ground ribbon and it’s 0 volts.

I’ll try that tonight. I hooked everything up and F116 does blow. The switch is all soldered correctly and I repaired the ribbon wire. What’s odd is the yellow/gray wire in the zaza pic just screws into the cabinet and does not touch the ground ribbon wire.

Can I please borrow your screen name? That’s exactly what I did.

Well the Super Ball light doesn't work. I looked in the manual, J116-2 is where the gray/yellow wire gets its power, and J116-3 is the ground. I used a DMM and checked AC voltage from J116-2 to J116-3 and it's supposed to be 12V but I get 30v. Can I check at the connector by the Super Ball switch, check voltage from gray/yellow (red DMM lead) to ribbon wire ground (black DMM lead) ?

Edit: The manual says the J116-2 to coin door J2-4 and the ground wire is J116-3 to coin door J2-5. The connector at the coin door has 4 connectors, so how can the ground wire be J2-5?

I found this thread https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/williams-ij-super-ball-button

It says the Super Ball light is on a flasher circuit. I put in test mode for Flashers and it works fine!

I have a credit dot. "Error Single Drop Bad, check Coil / Switch. I assume this is the drop target in front of the captured ball. In the Solenoid test it works fine. In the switch test the switch is fine. I tested both the other day as well, were working fine, credit dot has been there a while. I checked and I have only 9 games played.

It's actually L-4!