Try shorting the pins on the cpu for the gun switch to ground. If it doesn't fire, you somehow hurt your CPU.

LTG : )

Then be sure you do before trying it.

On the cpu are connectors for the switches. Each connector plugs onto pins. Each pin is for one switch. Find the one for the trigger switch, use a jumper wire to ground that one and in Tests - Switch Edge - see if the trigger registers. If not, you shorted the cpu when you were putting in the LEDs.

LTG : )

A piece of wire. Put one end on the pin on the cpu connector for that switch, put the other end on the metal plate all the boards in the head are fastened to. Go into Tests - Switch edge, hold the wire to ground and briefly touch the pin on the connector and see if it registered on the DMD.

Have you used a meter to see if the switch works, you have continuity of each wire from the switch to the cpu ? You could have a break somewhere or a bad switch.

LTG : )

Did you have the game on when you were installing the leds?

IJ does some weird stuff if you turn the game on with the coin door open. Did you try rebooting?

Don't do it then. Get help.

LTG : )

If you're lucky you only blew a fuse(es). Check them with a meter (removed from the game) and replace the blown ones.

Marc

"Guns handles don't kill pinball machines, alligator clips do."
- TBK

Please, check your "mods" for said clips touching contacts (such as GI wires, leads, and microswitches), before you start replacing fuses.
This is done with the game OFF.
"Just a fuse" is a lucky break.
Replacing fuses without previous mentioned checks, results in more blown fuses, and does not fix anything.
Jumping to into electronics before validating your previous work, always results in problems.
You may need to backtrack and remove mods, as I have no idea what exacting was changed.

When GI and and switch matrix issues arise, my senses tell me shorts are resulting from the addons in this case.
Rarely, only one switch is effected from a short.
Hopefully, improper voltages were not sent back to the MPU via the switch matrix or crossing from the GI, or other connections.
You may have a turned the game into an expensive Christmas tree ornament until the problem is identified.

But, all problems can be fixed and everyone makes mistakes.

Don't install leds with the game on. You're lucky it was just a fuse so far.

If you mean the switches, it won't be a fuse. Then your CPU took a hit.

LTG : )

The sling is a coil, activated by two leaf switches. If you close the coin door, start a game and push on the rubber, does the sling coil fire? If you go into switch test mode with coin door open, does either sling leaf switch activate when you push on the rubber or manually close the leaf switch with your finger? If you go into coil test, with coin door closed, does the sling coil fire?

Have you checked the connections on the switch? I don't have a manual in front of me, but does the gun switch have a diode on it? Is it connected.

If you have a meter, you can check to see if there is power getting to the switch. One probe on one wire, one probe to the ground braid.

Duplicate post.

None of your switches would be working if you lost 12 volts.

Get your CPU fixed, people that post here like Borygard, Chrishibler, can help you.

LTG : )

You say the switch isn't working on the sling, but there are two switches. Are both not working in test mode. You need to close the coindoor or pull the interlock switch to test a coil, assuming this game has a cutoff.

Clips would just cause the fuse to blow, not take out a switch, unless you shorted the clips to the switch. Lights and switches are independent.

You need to test if 12v is getting to gun switch. Look at the switch matrix, what else is on the row? Are those working? If so, you have a broken wire going to the gun switch. You can also test continuity from the connector on the board to the switch.

That's where I'd start.

Have you checked the switch with a meter ? Have you checked continuity of each wire from the switch to the CPU ?

You were doing stuff with the power on, easy to damage the LM339's or U20 on the CPU. ( I feel it is, sorry )

No. You wouldn't have any switches working if 12 volts was gone. And pull and check fuses with a meter, what it looks like could be deceiving.

Fixing why the switch doesn't work.

Rows go across, columns go up and down. #33 and #34 don't work. Does #32 and #35 work ? If so, then you have a broken wire between #32 and #33 or between #34 and #35. This will be a green wire with an orange stripe.

LTG : )

Oh my, "The Attack of Swapatronics".

This situation based on reading base assessments does make me suspect MPU IC damage.

Please seek assistance for validation of testing of components, switch matrix, and coils before powering up a new MPU on a potentially remaining shorted game. This will also require EPROM and IC extraction (if repairs are required) which you may not have the proper tools.

Pinball machines are not simple "plug and play" electronics.

If you don't have a broken green wire with orange stripe from the first switch to the CPU, yes the switch matrix part of the CPU took a hit.

What ever shorted to that line, be sure you fixed that. No sense putting a repaired board in and blowing it again.

Unless you are very skilled at board repair, get help. My 22nd post has who to contact.

LTG : )

A meter. Cheap one will do. Check from any switch green wire with orange stripe, to the same color wire going into the connector on the bottom of the CPU.

Youtube is littered with how to videos. Use a meter, check continuity, etc.

LTG : )

Hardware store or Home Depot near you. Pick any one you like, like these :

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Klein-Tools-Manual-Ranging-Digital-Multimeter-MM300/206517192

https://www.amazon.com/Tacklife-Multimeter-Resistance-Connectivity-Measurement/dp/B01N68Y73M/ref=sr_1_1

NO. With the game turned off, see if the green wire orange stripe from any switch has CONTINUITY to the CPU connector J207 pin 3

LTG : )

Continuity - yes - CPU damage.

Continuity - No - Then follow the wire along from the CPU, using your eyes and meter, and find the break and fix it.

LTG : )

Check your CPU. If ( and that's a big IF ) U20 on yours is socketed, yes you can remove the old one and plug in a new one. Line up marks the same, not labels. The board is marked and the IC has a mark so you know where pin one is. If your U20 isn't socketed, then you'd have to unsolder it, and solder on a socket, then plug it in, so it's easier next time.

And if you don't have the tools and skills for board work, you'll need someone that does. Easy to do lots of damage to the traces.

LTG : )

Here you can see the notch on the IC and mark on the white line on the circuit board. Also note under the corner of the IC on the board the white circle, that marks pin one. Some IC's will have a circle there rather than the notch.

LTG : )

closeup-ic-polarity (resized).jpg

I have the same problem. What ended up being the fix? Thanks

Yes- interesting thread and then nothing. Hopefully someone puts the solution. I’m guessing his CPU was fried and had to ship to someone to fix.

I had similar problem, fortunately solder had broken away from one of wires to gun.