(Topic ID: 283994)

Indiana Jones ground short.... LM339s?

By pb456

3 years ago


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  • 19 posts
  • 5 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 1 year ago by pb456
  • Topic is favorited by 2 Pinsiders

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LM339 (resized).png
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10 switch opto schematic 3 (resized).png
10 switch opto schematic 2 (resized).png
10 switch opto schematic 1 (resized).png
#1 3 years ago

Ok.

So I removed J209 from the MPU, the ground shorts do not show.

When the 10 switch opto board (which I reworked and replaced the LM339s with sockets) is installed, power shows on the board, and in test mode, I show three rows with 'ground short'. Row 3 (White/Orange), Row 5 (White/Green), Row 7 (White/Violet).

When J3 is disconnected from the 10 switch opto, switch test shows those rows normal.

I've disconnected the trough opto board, but did not seem to affect the rows out.

Tracing J3-10 (the White/Orange wire, aka row 3), I show that there is no direct short to J3-1 (ground), and I show continuity to non-banded D3 diode and non-banded D12 diode as I would expect.

Because I show the entire row, and three of them, I am beginning to suspect something wrong with the LM339s as there are three. Don't have any good basis for this belief as I am lost here.

I don't show any short to ground or any continuity on U1 (LM339 # 1) from the white/orange wire.

I haven't tried to disconnect pin 5 (E2 Opto 3) from J2 to see if that's the possible short.

Looking for some insight, thanks in advance.

10 switch opto schematic 1 (resized).png10 switch opto schematic 1 (resized).png10 switch opto schematic 2 (resized).png10 switch opto schematic 2 (resized).png10 switch opto schematic 3 (resized).png10 switch opto schematic 3 (resized).png
#2 3 years ago

Looks like 3-5-7 go to 2 different 339's, so presumably the odd 339 out (U3) is ok. Try swapping it into the other sockets.

Double check your socket work. Did it do it before you started to work on the board? Troubleshooting 101 double check what you JUST did to a board as what's more likely - all the sudden 339's failed (or new ones are all dead) OR something that JUST changed has an issue.

Looking at the solder joints with bright light and high powered magnification will help locate issues. Also if you have a cheap chip tester they might be able to test the 339's.

#3 3 years ago
Quoted from slochar:

Looks like 3-5-7 go to 2 different 339's, so presumably the odd 339 out (U3) is ok. Try swapping it into the other sockets.

Quoted from slochar:

Looks like 3-5-7 go to 2 different 339's, so presumably the odd 339 out (U3) is ok. Try swapping it into the other sockets.

Double check your socket work. Did it do it before you started to work on the board?

I must be missing something here, as this thread has no mention of sockets or previous board work ... either way its probably time to break out that logic probe.

#4 3 years ago
Quoted from slochar:

Looks like 3-5-7 go to 2 different 339's, so presumably the odd 339 out (U3) is ok. Try swapping it into the other sockets.
Double check your socket work. Did it do it before you started to work on the board? Troubleshooting 101 double check what you JUST did to a board as what's more likely - all the sudden 339's failed (or new ones are all dead) OR something that JUST changed has an issue.
Looking at the solder joints with bright light and high powered magnification will help locate issues. Also if you have a cheap chip tester they might be able to test the 339's.

Thank you for that. I had some spare LM339s (new, from Marco's) and changed those out, same result. I double-checked continuity of the sockets from the solder side of the board, and even re-tinned some of the duller looking solder joints.

Originally this board was a real mess. I did socket all the LM339s. Replaced LM339s are TI LM 339 N.

I also replaced some diodes and 1/4w resistors on this board, and did some light trace repair.

Before the board repair, switch level/edge test was showing some very squirrely results - that part has cleaned up.

But right now I'm looking at rows 3, 5, 7 being closed/shorted. I've checked a few switches on the white/orange (row 3) and verified those that I've gotten to so far are operational, even clipping diodes, testing switches, soldering on new diodes - 1n4004s.

I know I will probably have to individually trace down all switches/wiring relating to these rows. Not my favorite thing, I'm kind of trying to avoid it! LOL.

I've done a bit of reading on the WPC games, and I think I can discount U20 being bad or the MPU (new Rottendog MPU, old U20) as when I remove J209 from the MPU (or J3) I do not see shorts on rows 3, 5, and 7.

It just seems to keep pointing back to this board. Admittedly I'm not certain.

#5 3 years ago
Quoted from Pin_Guy:

I must be missing something here, as this thread has no mention of sockets or previous board work ... either way its probably time to break out that logic probe.

I have the schematic, and a logic probe.

Any info on what to look for on this board?

TIA.

#6 3 years ago

The LM339s are basic comparators you need to verify the output logic level is correct based on the input levels.

pasted_image (resized).pngpasted_image (resized).png
#7 3 years ago

So, reading this - I would have the logic probe hooked up as follows:

Red lead of logic probe to pin 3, black lead of logic probe to pin 12....?

And the probe tip I'd be looking for high pulse on outputs 1-4 (pins 2, 1, 14, 13 respectfully)...?

This is going to be a real bugger to get power to the probe.

I assume I could get the power from pins 2 (+12vdc) and 1 from J3..

LM339 (resized).pngLM339 (resized).png
#8 3 years ago
Quoted from pb456:

So, reading this - I would have the logic probe hooked up as follows:

Red lead of logic probe to pin 3, black lead of logic probe to pin 12....?

And the probe tip I'd be looking for high pulse on outputs 1-4 (pins 2, 1, 14, 13 respectfully)...?

This is going to be a real bugger to get power to the probe.

I assume I could get the power from pins 2 (+12vdc) and 1 from J3..

Yes you are looking for a state change at pins 1, 2, 13, and 14 that follows the input to the comparator. Power should not be an issue, you can either back probe the power connector or find a good component on the board to clip onto, the high power load resistors all have 12V on the source side.

pasted_image (resized).pngpasted_image (resized).png
#9 3 years ago

Ok, so with my Elenco LP 900, here's what I see.

LM339 number 1, U1.
Output 2, pin 1: High, Low, slow pulse.
Output 1, pin 2: Low, slow pulse.
Output 3, pin 14: High, Low, slow pulse.
Output 4, pin 13: High, Low, slow pulse.

LM339 number 2, U2.
Output 2, pin 1: High, Low, slow pulse.
Output 1, pin 2: Low, slow pulse.
Output 3, pin 14: Low, slow pulse.
Output 4, pin 13: Low, slow pulse.

LM339 number 3, U3.
Output 2, pin 1: Low, slow pulse.
Output 1, pin 2: High, Low, slow pulse.
Output 3, pin 14: High, Low, slow pulse.
Output 4, pin 13: High, Low, slow pulse.

I have test leads connected to pins 1 & 2 (ground + 12v) on J3.

#10 3 years ago

Breaking it down, here's what I think it means:

LM339 1
Output 2 (pin 1): Square wave
Output 1 (pin 2): Logic 0
Output 3 (pin 14): Square wave
Output 4 (pin 13): Square wave

LM339 2
Output 2 (pin 1): Square wave
Output 1: Logic 0
Output 3: Logic 0
Output 4: Logic 0

LM339 3
Output 2: Logic 0
Output 1: Square wave
Output 3: Square wave
Output 4: Square wave

#11 3 years ago

So, I'm unclear - what should I be measuring?

If I read (-) input 1 and (+) input 1 (pins 4 and 5 on LM339 respecfully), what should I be seeing on output 1 (pin 2)?

And I assume the same with inputs 2 through 4, and outputs 2 through 4.

Speaking to using the logic probe and not DMM.

TIA.

#12 3 years ago

To test this board with a logic probe, you are going to need to have control over all the signals going into the LM339's I do this entirely on my workbench by providing 12V to the circuit and using the logic probes .5 pps pulse to drive the columns at a slow enough rate to be able to verify the row outputs properly follow the column pulse, I then then use the 12V (J2-9) that would normally go to each of the machines phototransistors and jumper this to feed the inputs that would normally come from the sensors at the J2 inputs.

I made this post a few years back that details how the LM339 comparators operate; please note, the tests shown in the following post were performed on a STTNG ball trough photo transistor board while installed in the machine using an oscilloscope to freeze a moment in time. The functional circuitry of this trough board and that of the 10 opto board is identical.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/sttng-owners-club/page/42#post-4174793

#13 3 years ago
Quoted from Pin_Guy:

To test this board with a logic probe, you are going to need to have control over all the signals going into the LM339's I do this entirely on my workbench by providing 12V to the circuit and using the logic probes .5 pps pulse to drive the columns at a slow enough rate to be able to verify the row outputs properly follow the column pulse, I then then use the 12V (J2-9) that would normally go to each of the machines phototransistors and jumper this to feed the inputs that would normally come from the sensors at the J2 inputs.
I made this post a few years back that details how the LM339 comparators operate; please note, the tests shown in the following post were performed on a STTNG ball trough photo transistor board while installed in the machine using an oscilloscope to freeze a moment in time. The functional circuitry of this trough board and that of the 10 opto board is identical.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/sttng-owners-club/page/42#post-4174793

Ok, I don't think I have all the gear for that - I ran through one row last night (row 3), doing continuity and visual inspection of the switches, diode testing last night but did not find a short.

I'll go through row 5 and 7 today, but on the optos that didn't work, I'm not sure how to test them.

I'll look on pinside to see if there's a way to test the optos, maybe there's something there I can do.

I have a basic oscilloscope kit, but I don't know how to use it. That's on me, I know.

#14 3 years ago

These timing issues can be a bear to get a handle on; since U3 is used solely for the generating of Rows 1, 2, and 3 you may want to focus your efforts on that area, and if possible just replace it or swap it with U2 to see if the problem migrates to rows 5, 6, and 7.
pasted_image (resized).pngpasted_image (resized).png

#15 3 years ago

Ok, that's a plan. I have some extra LM339s also, let's see if there's any change.

1 year later
#16 1 year ago
Quoted from pb456:

I have some extra LM339s also, let's see if there's any change.

And your result?

#17 1 year ago

He probably forgets - it's more than a year ago hahaha

#18 1 year ago
Quoted from pins4u:

He probably forgets - it's more than a year ago hahaha

Some people put off what they plan to do for various reasons as well. If not yet repaired, I hope it will be soon.

Sometimes real life gets in the way.

#19 1 year ago
Quoted from PinballManiac40:

Some people put off what they plan to do for various reasons as well. If not yet repaired, I hope it will be soon.
Sometimes real life gets in the way.

Oh, sorry - it's been a while... Let's see if I remember....

Shotgunned the opto board, got it working by replacing the LM339s and U3, diodes, resistors that tested wrong.

Much of the issue boiled down to connectors and the MPU board. Replaced the MPU board, got it going again.

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