(Topic ID: 169427)

Stern Indiana Jones Club...You chosen wisely

By PinballManiac40

7 years ago


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  • 261 posts
  • 53 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 33 hours ago by Mr_Tantrum
  • Topic is favorited by 29 Pinsiders

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There are 261 posts in this topic. You are on page 3 of 6.
#101 3 years ago
Quoted from Spunky1562:

I’m debating on the new playfield but I’ve never done a swap before. One set of rubber came from Action Pinball and the other came from Marco.

This is the pin that got me back into pins. My wife wouldn’t let me sell it so I decided to make it pretty. Its my first swap. So far no big problems. I have a good space to work on it. Have it setup on a pindoc rotisserie in the Garage. Taking lots and lots of pics to refer back to when I get to rebuild on the new table. Just taking my time and having fun with it.

I bought the new playfield off of eBay, $525... it gets drop shipped directly from stern.

#102 3 years ago

Are you taking everything off the original playfield on the rotisserie and then will mount the new playfield on the rotisserie and reassemble?

#103 3 years ago

Well done with Christmas lights, so had a bit of time to check things over.

I was able to replace the temple motor, so now it goes up and down as it should.

I replaced my magnet core and leveled the new one. The playfield definitely doesn’t dip as much as I thought, the old core was just so smashed up and proud of the playfield.

I’ve got a few switches and a few solenoids not firing and the ball stop on the ramp seems to stop the ball just about everyone unless it’s moving super fast. Then the ball find feature fires off everything, and the ball comes loose.

On the target switches, they all seem to work if I manually push them, but if a ball hits them with force, they don’t register. I’m guessing the contacts need to be cleaned?

I think I may hold off on the playfield swap for now, this is one of the kids Christmas presents, so I’ll make sure they love it before spending that time to swap. I do want to get everything functional though. Is there some checklists you guys and gals go through to get a machine up and ready?

#104 3 years ago

I am all in on the playfield swap. I am expecting to invest at least 80 hrs on the swap. Its a big job! More than bolting and unbolting a few things, its cleaning and more cleaning. Its amazing how much black dust is to be found.. I am replacing all solenoid sleeves and plungers, some of the targets, changing to super bands - all white with colored post sleeves, replacing the blue rubbers. I have a comet led kit, adding some ball trough lights. Rebuild on bumpers, new skirts. It should be a lot of fun in a sadistic sort of way.
Honestly its my alone peaceful time. Put on some Ella Fitzgerald and calmly and methodically work on it, with lots of pics to refer back to. Its Legos for adults

#105 3 years ago

My current progress on tear down. Need to order a few more parts for pop bumpers. Still plenty to do while waiting for parts...

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#106 3 years ago
Quoted from Spunky1562:

Hello, I joined the IJ4 club with a well used model. This was my first pin newer than the 80s so much has changed. Overall playfield looks good but does appear to have stickers or Mylar in spots.
A few concerns:
1. I fired up the machine to play a few rounds for testing and it made a horrible screeching sound almost like a belt slipping on a car a couple times during several games. Not sure what this could be, but scares the crap out of me when it happens.
2. While looking at Cliffys, I realized that the stone captive ball should move or something to open a scoop. Mine stays put. Advise?
3. Is the magnet supposed to be above the playfield? Mine sticks up and causes the ball to launch everywhere when active.
4. The top plastic for the “mystery” light on the grail is broken and just hanging there. Is this available without buying a whole $200 plastic set?
5. Under the playfield is completely covered in black dust. What is best way to clean this?
6. Who makes the best rubbers for this game and how about the decals over targets?
7. A few switch errors come up under service menu, is there any trick to these? I’m not used to a machine telling me anything much less it has a switch error. I didn’t even notice while playing.
Any other advise from owners? I want to get this cleaned up and ready to go for Christmas.
Thanks!

#1. I had a screeching sound in mine when I got it. It turned out to be the arm in the shaker motor was loose. Just a twist of an allen wrench solved that problem.

#107 3 years ago

Figured out a nice trick you can do with the blue rubbers on the temple shot....

You can take them off and flip them, clean them up with hot solution of h2o simple green with a dab of dawn and they cleaned up nice... photo of minimal effort waiting for stuff to dry...

Shows right side flipped and cleaned up, left side is OG side cleaned up... those were pretty gross to start

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#108 3 years ago

Nice job on flipping the rubber. I wouldn’t have thought of that.

I am looking at purchasing the volume control that replaces the tournament button on the front of the cab from PBL.

Is there any use for the tournament button in a home setting? Any reason not to replace it? I have never setup a tournament or anything so I don’t know what use it has.

#109 3 years ago

I have a few sets of Orange Rubbers available. They are custom cut and are the same thickness and density of the original blue rubber. The holes aren’t as large on those and they actually hold the screw for you making install much easier. PM me if you are interested.

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#110 3 years ago

I noticed the Shankara stones in Temple of Doom appear to have 3 white lines on them. I was going to paint the stone, but ended up using pieces of silicone plumbing tape and a dab of Elmers glue. Worked pretty well. I have no idea how I came to use silicone tape. It just happened.

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#111 3 years ago

Well I’ve had a bit more time to poke around in my IJ4.

The left flipper was missing the EOS switch trigger on the pawl (the little plastic piece) so it’s coil and everything around it was a black carbon dust covered mess. I was able to clean a lot of it up and am waiting on new flipper coils and bushings to complete the flipper rebuild.

I was getting a shooter lane switch error and found the diode was disconnected. After testing and soldering it back on, all is well.

My top bumper isn’t working and the upper right slingshot is incredibly weak. I noticed that three out of the four fiber yokes on the pop bumpers were cracked. The pop bumper that doesn’t work is missing the solder lugs, so I’m hoping the shoddy repair is what’s causing the failure. I’m hoping a new sleeve and inspection will lead me to know the upper slingshot issue.

I installed a flipper fidelity speaker kit, stern shaker and updated the software to latest (was still on 1.02 or something) as well.

I’ve ordered the trough update kit from Marco to fix any potential issue there.

Waiting on some new dual led flasher boards from across the pond to replace mine and some
Cliffy’s before fully taking the topside down to clean and polish.

Also picked up a knocker and voltage step up board to install a real one to turn off fake knocker screech.

I’m learning quite a bit and thank everyone for any tips.

#112 3 years ago
Quoted from Spunky1562:

Well I’ve had a bit more time to poke around in my IJ4.
The left flipper was missing the EOS switch trigger on the pawl (the little plastic piece) so it’s coil and everything around it was a black carbon dust covered mess. I was able to clean a lot of it up and am waiting on new flipper coils and bushings to complete the flipper rebuild.
I was getting a shooter lane switch error and found the diode was disconnected. After testing and soldering it back on, all is well.
My top bumper isn’t working and the upper right slingshot is incredibly weak. I noticed that three out of the four fiber yokes on the pop bumpers were cracked. The pop bumper that doesn’t work is missing the solder lugs, so I’m hoping the shoddy repair is what’s causing the failure. I’m hoping a new sleeve and inspection will lead me to know the upper slingshot issue.
I installed a flipper fidelity speaker kit, stern shaker and updated the software to latest (was still on 1.02 or something) as well.
I’ve ordered the trough update kit from Marco to fix any potential issue there.
Waiting on some new dual led flasher boards from across the pond to replace mine and some
Cliffy’s before fully taking the topside down to clean and polish.
Also picked up a knocker and voltage step up board to install a real one to turn off fake knocker screech.
I’m learning quite a bit and thank everyone for any tips.

How is the magnet area on yours? That seems to be the most common damaged area. I guess these were good earning machines.

Mine had diode broken on the temple of doom target behind newton shot. Had some broken yokes to. Rebuilding all the pops on mine.

Keep us posted with your machine and experience. We all learn from each other here

#113 3 years ago

Update on playfield swap. Progress! Finally have old pf completely depopulated! Have all posts cleaned and populated, T-nuts have been moved, all toysand mechanisms cleaned and rebuilt. Next comes rebuilding pop bumper and reinstalling brackets that hold solenoids. Then the real fun begins of reinstalling harness

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#114 3 years ago

Weekend update:

I began the tear down of the pop bumpers only to discover the metal yokes were broken on a couple, so I now have a new parts order to compete. I did discover the coil winding is disconnected on the one that was missing it’s lugs and was very poorly repaired, so I’m confident it will work after replacing coil.

I began disassembly of the playfield to clean everything and replace all lights and my cracked ramp. I took everything down as needed and then cleaned the playfield with Novus 2. This was able to remove all the ground in dirt and ball trails around the playfield. The playfield actually looks great. Even the area in front of the ark and the pop bumper areas came out. My magnet area has a slight cup to it, but nowhere near as bad as I thought it was. After putting a new magnet core in flush, it’s great. Just a tiny bit of where by the core lip is all. I have Cliffys on the way which should fix that.

I took the rear slingshot apart that would only pop weakly and found the sleeve had been melted inside so the plunger would only move about 1/4” before hitting melted sleeve. I replaced that coil, cleaned and replace sleeve on others and through the coil test verified that both slings are working great. Anything to worry about with the melted coil? I tested them and nothing locked on, so maybe just normal wear?

I replaced all lamps and flashers with Comet leds. I did have one GI socket that was not working because the wire was not connected. Soldered that and everything looks great.

I finished my flipper rebuild, but need to install the new flipper bats after final cleaning of playfield.

Next up is to finish the pop bumper rebuilds and install the cliffys as well as new dual led flasher replacements when parts arrive. Then I will begin reassembly of the playfield.

I do have a new plastic set which I will use for some bad plastics, but I mainly bought it for the “mystery when kit” plastic by the grail. I don’t have a rivet press to attach the light socket, so I have a very tiny bolt and nut I will use to secure it.

#115 3 years ago

I started to install my set of Cliffys last night and got the all but the scoop holes done. Upon doing the kickout hole, I found my ball trough top weld was broke. I hadn’t noticed any issue with it so I may wait to replace the top.

Also got in my led flasher boards from mypinballs.com and they work great. Direct replacement.

Hopefully I’ll be able to get the two final Cliffys installed tonight, then I’m waiting for parts on Friday.

I’m really up against it for Christmas morning, but I can see the end as long as reassembly goes well with all the plastics.

I noticed on my main ramp one of the 3” hexagonal spacers is just attached to the ramp and nothing else. It sits at an angle just behind the ramp ball lock. Does anyone have a picture or can confirm this?

#116 3 years ago

It’s attaches to the plastic and not the board.

#117 3 years ago
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#118 3 years ago

Got everything put back together. No issues except the map eject hits the plastic and won’t come out. Any ideas here? I replaced the coil sleeve but not the coil.

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#119 3 years ago
Quoted from Spunky1562:

Got everything put back together. No issues except the map eject hits the plastic and won’t come out. Any ideas here? I replaced the coil sleeve but not the coil. [quoted image]

Mine was doing that and I had to adjust how the 30 degree bracket mounted a little bit. Try to get it were the plunger gets a clean shot.

#120 3 years ago

Progress! Its funner to build up the pf than dissect parts and clean them. Most of the underneath part is done, building up the topside. Cliffy’s came in and installed. My goal is to be playing before the new year.

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#121 3 years ago

Looking good superpops! I agree. Assembling was much more fun than disassembly and cleaning.

I got my map room eject fixed and adjusted its switch and coil angle.

I have two more issues I really need help with as I am going to roll this in the house for Christmas morning.

1. I tested the switches and all of them work except when the right orbit spinner switch is triggered, it also triggers the trough jam switch. I can trigger the trough jam opto by itself just fine. I changed the diode on the spinner switch and it is still the same. Help would be greatly appreciated.

2. When I got the unit it had a bad flickering led replacement in the back box. I purchased a new led and starter and the light worked great, but now a week or so later the ends of the led tube are super brown(burnt) and the light doesn’t light up hardly at all. I bought a different light today from Lowe’s and it is very dim as well. The lights say they will work with electronic ballasts. What do I need to do?

#122 3 years ago

It looks like the ballast I have is dead, so I ordered a direct wire led replacement and rewired the tombstones. All should be good when the new led arrives.

Still stuck with switch issue. Do optics have diodes to check?

#123 3 years ago

Installed a color dmd in my Indiana Jones. Looks good animations, are pretty good on this game.

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#124 3 years ago

That looks amazing! Did you install the LED or LCD dmd?

#125 3 years ago

I have a problem with my indy, its the motor to "cairo swordman" that wont actuate.

checked the motor and its OK
mech turns fine aswell when tried from another 20V line, switches in mech are OK.
yellow brown has 22Vs so thats ok.
white has 1V when off but doesnt get 22V when actuated in the test (door closed, fuses are ok).

manual says brown 20V on J7-1 is OK
black/blu 20V on J6 is OK

what am i missing???

#126 3 years ago
Quoted from eckelpeckel:

I have a problem with my indy, its the motor to "cairo swordman" that wont actuate.
checked the motor and its OK
mech turns fine aswell when tried from another 20V line, switches in mech are OK.
yellow brown has 22Vs so thats ok.
white has 1V when off but doesnt get 22V when actuated in the test (door closed, fuses are ok).
manual says brown 20V on J7-1 is OK
black/blu 20V on J6 is OK
what am i missing???

I would start by pulling the swordsman and cleaning it. It should have lithium grease or superlube on the gear that connects the swordsman post and motor.

There is an opto board at the base of the mounting bracket.

That 20 year old grease was a problem with mine but it did activate but would hang up on the return.

There is a double set of rollovers behind the newton for map room. Make sure those switches are good, that activates swordsman.

#127 3 years ago

Pretty stoked right now. Got my pf swap reinstalled and fired up. The Comet LED kit looks amazing - make sure you get the flashers. Everything is just minty clean and new. Have a couple issues to work thru but overall I am very satisfied.

The list of things done....

New NOS stern playfield

NOS plastic set

Complete Comet LED IJ4 kit with flashers

Rebuild pop bumpers, new body, skirts, metal and fiber yokes, springs coil sleeves.

Custom superband set, colored posts with white bands.

Every coil sleeve replaced

All assemblies disassembled and cleaned in ultrasonic cleaner

A clean Harness!

New cabinet start tourney and flipper buttons

Replaced the white and yellow standup targets with new ones, new foam backings on all targets.

Successful 1st pf swap! It was very therapeutic and I really enjoyed the process.

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#128 3 years ago

#mancave

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#129 3 years ago

thanx superpops but the problem is not in the mech itself, ive had it apart and cleaned.
The rollovers work fine too.

my problem is the white line wont signal when actuated by either the pf switch nor in test mode.. I have a hard time tracing this line back to the PCBs so not really sure what components to check..

i bought a new gearbox/motor for it, the old one was completely chewed out, im guessing the mech stuck somehow and just kept chewing thru the plastic gears and eventually stopped when it burned out something on the PCB ?

(ps. great looking lineup there, very nice!)

#130 3 years ago
Quoted from Tsunami:

That looks amazing! Did you install the LED or LCD dmd?

I got the LED dmd for it.

#131 3 years ago
Quoted from Coolpinballdino:

I got the LED dmd for it.

The LED DMD looks the best on this pin. I tried both and the animations are better with the LED.

#132 3 years ago

really going nowhere on my swordsman issue.. when i short the relay the motor runs fine.

both the back and forth switches in the mech work fine too, as do the playfield switches.

"ah it must be the relay!" nope, swapped the relay with the ark one and the relay works fine and actuates as it should in that mech.

the problem is the CPU doesnt seem to send an activate signal too it as i cant activate it even from the testmenu.. what controls this on the cpu?

1 week later
#133 3 years ago

stupid swordsman!! ...measured the switch chains from both J12 and J1 and they seem fine, J12 goes into IC U40 and this IC seems to only be used by swordsman and temple lock motor, however the temple lock works fine.. could it still be faulty? (i havent got an osilloscope so cant check its logic).

it seems it has to be some logic circuit since every voltage is fine and there and all switches involved work as they should..?

3 weeks later
#134 3 years ago
Quoted from eckelpeckel:

stupid swordsman!! ...measured the switch chains from both J12 and J1 and they seem fine, J12 goes into IC U40 and this IC seems to only be used by swordsman and temple lock motor, however the temple lock works fine.. could it still be faulty? (i havent got an osilloscope so cant check its logic).
it seems it has to be some logic circuit since every voltage is fine and there and all switches involved work as they should..?

Where you able to fix the swordsman?

2 weeks later
#135 3 years ago

Hi All,

We've had this pin for about 3 months and are loving it. Sometimes (more recently lately) when the Ark is triggered the game will shoot two balls onto the ramp and attempt to auto-shoot them up to reload the Ark. Any tips or links for things to try? Much appreciated.

#136 3 years ago

Hello I just did a ten hour round trip and joined the IJ4 club! I’ll be seeing the new pin up tomorrow, can’t wait!

#137 3 years ago

How about posting some pictures of these new games that had been picked up recently?

#138 3 years ago
Quoted from PinballManiac40:

How about posting some pictures of these new games that had been picked up recently?

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#139 3 years ago

PinballManiac40

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#140 3 years ago

Having some fun so far. Everything seems to be in good working order except for 2 items. 1.) Cairo swordsman doesn’t swing open. I’ll have to really get in there and see what is going on but I see the round barrel piece that connects to the large gear is loose and probably just needs secured to catch the gear. I’ll update once I start working on it. Previous owner said it has a new motor. 2.) Sometimes when the doom scoop is opening I’ll strike it before it’s fully opened and it will stay half open and inoperable until I unlock another multi ball and it resets. Has anyone seen this? Lots of mods on order I’ll get some pictures when they are in. First order of business is colorDMD!

#141 3 years ago

Just got my IJ4 and I’m loving it, only problem is the balls keep getting stuck to the magnet, is there anything to help this issue? Shaking the game won’t even knock it off the magnet

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#142 3 years ago
Quoted from benlaurence:

Just got my IJ4 and I’m loving it, only problem is the balls keep getting stuck to the magnet, is there anything to help this issue? Shaking the game won’t even knock it off the magnet
[quoted image]

Congrats. Change the balls. Sounds like they are magnetized.

#143 3 years ago

First Mods in... mini grail diary, bumper lights, and painted the stone with white lines.

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#144 3 years ago
Quoted from PinballManiac40:

Congrats. Change the balls. Sounds like they are magnetized.

Thanks!!! Are there special un magnetized balls or does that just happen over time?

#145 3 years ago
Quoted from benlaurence:

Thanks!!! Are there special un magnetized balls or does that just happen over time?

Happens over time. I hear that certain balls do magnetize faster. I use pinballs from Marco and normally have to change them out for pitting/dents before they get magnetized.

#146 3 years ago

Couple silly questions 1.) The high intensity purple light when the ark opens up. Where can I buy 1 and are they easy to replace 2.) On the ark 8 ball multi ball I see the the ball in play plus the 4 that drop from the ark but I’m not seeing the other 3... unless I just can’t keep them in play that long. Haha

#147 3 years ago
Quoted from benlaurence:

Just got my IJ4 and I’m loving it, only problem is the balls keep getting stuck to the magnet, is there anything to help this issue? Shaking the game won’t even knock it off the magnet
[quoted image]

Agree with the above, probably magnetized balls. If new balls continue to stick, you could make sure the magnet core is flush with the playfield, then place some mylar over the magnet. That can act as a slight buffer and allow the balls to roll away easier. Other ideas out there I’m sure. Good luck!

#148 3 years ago
Quoted from Pinkitten:

Agree with the above, probably magnetized balls. If new balls continue to stick, you could make sure the magnet core is flush with the playfield, then place some mylar over the magnet. That can act as a slight buffer and allow the balls to roll away easier. Other ideas out there I’m sure. Good luck!

Thank you! Is the magnet area supposed to be level with the playfield? Mine sinks down a bit. I tried sacking mylar to see if it would help stop the ball from getting stuck but it still hangs there

#149 3 years ago
Quoted from benlaurence:

Is the magnet area supposed to be level with the playfield?

Yes. You can adjust this from below.

#150 3 years ago
Quoted from PinballManiac40:

Happens over time. I hear that certain balls do magnetize faster. I use pinballs from Marco and normally have to change them out for pitting/dents before they get magnetized.

Wondering if magnetized balls also cause the flippers to stop working mid game - almost like the ball has gone out of play, but it's still in play. This just started recently happening randomly. Also wondering if it's contributing to two balls being launched into the ramp when the ark is activated mentioned above (Post 136)? I can't see anything obvious, open for any suggestions - Thanks in advance.

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