(Topic ID: 221103)

Independence day issues

By thestreetzking

5 years ago


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  • 30 posts
  • 6 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 5 years ago by Colsond3
  • Topic is favorited by 1 Pinsider

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#1 5 years ago

Hey everyone,

I have a couple issues on my independence day that are stumping me.

Before I start let me say the boards are brand new in this game. Installed a week ago.

it is shooting 2 balls into the lane everytime. Is this just that the trough switches need to be adjusted? I was messing around with them last week for a while and before it would say "4 balls missing" then find them, and now after some adjustment I get this issue. Its weird too because i can drain one of the balls and the game will let me continue to play until the 2nd ball drains.

I Tried adjusting switches and still no change. They all work great in test mode. Or is this the optos?

Also i have another strange issue where the top right pop bumper gets hit and pops but the right sling shot goes off too. And the right sling will not fire on its own when hit but does score. In the test mode the right sling still will not fire by itself, but both fire when pop bumper is activated in test mode.
ALSO If I ground the Q13 transistor then my right sling fires correctly. If I ground the Q11 transistor then my right pop bumper fires correctly and DOES NOT fire the sling.
So why does this not work correctly in test mode or gameplay?!

And the last little issue. The top left rollover light (letter i) and the middle alien ship (for multiplier bonus) lights do not work during gameplay. But they both work in the attract mode.. and these are new LEDs, and i have switched them out with same results

#2 5 years ago

Anyone have any thoughts? Im kinda at a stand still

I attached a pic of the boards. Bottom board is new rotten dog. Top board is new stern cpu 520-5300-00 rev a

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#3 5 years ago

Anyone!

One of my opto boards was flaky (if I pressed on it the light would go out) I resoldered it and its no longer going out with any movement. It also works exactly as it should in the test menu. I am still stumped on the pop bumper/sling shot issue. The wires are correct everywhere. Could this be a rom issue? I do not have the original roms, so I will buy another set if this could help.

And all my lights work in attract mode. but having issues with the left inlane (combo light) and the middle space ship (for bonus) during gameplay they dont work.

#4 5 years ago

Got the correct coil for the trough. Didnt help. Ordered the opto boards for trough a minute ago. Hope this fixes the 2 ball issue.

Still no clue where to go with the pop bumper/sling or lights.. If anyone would reply that would be awesome.

#5 5 years ago

Man, sorry your not getting any help here. I’m a fellow ID4 owner, but your issues are way above my skill level.

#6 5 years ago
Quoted from T8ter:

Man, sorry your not getting any help here. I’m a fellow ID4 owner, but your issues are way above my skill level.

Thanks for the reply though! Optos come tomorrow. Just hope that narrows down one issue

#7 5 years ago

Of course my package has been delayed. Sent to 3 different states when it was at one point 25 minutes from my house. No clue if im even gonna get it at this point.

So just gonna try and bump this thread in hopes someone sees it and can help

#8 5 years ago

heres where I am at now with the new optos

The leds I have now (Old Optos) are Super bright and work exactly as they should in the test menu, BUT my game is constantly firing 2 balls into the shooter lane though.

I bought a brand new set of optos and they are not as bright of an led, and do NOT show up in the test menu no matter what I do (block light or not) The game fires only 1 ball into the shooter lane, but it also fires one ball in the UpKicker which does not kick the ball up. SO the problem with this is that the game doesnt know the ball is in the upkicker and when a ball drains it only activates 3 of the 4 trough switches and then has to do a ball search.

Are the new optos faulty? Is something else to blame?

#9 5 years ago

Take your apron off and see if the weld broke at the arch for the trough scoop. Then make sure optos are clean, both receiving and sending sides.

The sling and pop, sounds like a wire is bridged or crossed? Have you checked the manual to see what wires should be on those coils?

Edit: mm actually I would check the switch gap on the pop and sling, maybe the movement of a pop shakes the machine enough to close the sling switch gap

#10 5 years ago
Quoted from northvibe:

Take your apron off and see if the weld broke at the arch for the trough scoop. Then make sure optos are clean, both receiving and sending sides.
The sling and pop, sounds like a wire is bridged or crossed? Have you checked the manual to see what wires should be on those coils?

I will check the apron in a few minutes, The optos are both really clean

The sling and pop issue, the wires on the coils are correct according to the manual, one of them is like blue and green and the other is blue and orange. its wired correctly at the plug on the board and wired correctly at the coils. What about the grounds? Could it be something with that?? I have tried to go through the harness and havent seen anything out of place or broken

#11 5 years ago
Quoted from thestreetzking:

I will check the apron in a few minutes, The optos are both really clean
The sling and pop issue, the wires on the coils are correct according to the manual, one of them is like blue and green and the other is blue and orange. its wired correctly at the plug on the board and wired correctly at the coils. What about the grounds? Could it be something with that?? I have tried to go through the harness and havent seen anything out of place or broken

I edited my post, but I actually would check the switches. Make sure they have the right wires and also are gapped correctly. I had a switch not gapped enough and when another coil would fire, the sling would go off

#12 5 years ago
Quoted from northvibe:

I edited my post, but I actually would check the switches. Make sure they have the right wires and also are gapped correctly. I had a switch not gapped enough and when another coil would fire, the sling would go off

Well I actually checked the gap, Both of the switches score points but do not fire the sling. Also like I said its doing this in the test mode. where if I fire the pop it will fire the sling, but the sling will not fire on the sling test.

#13 5 years ago
Quoted from northvibe:

Take your apron off and see if the weld broke at the arch for the trough scoop.

Looks like its split on top on both sides.

Can I ask what this would cause?

I can jb weld this back to normal right?

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#14 5 years ago
Quoted from thestreetzking:

Looks like its split on top on both sides.
Can I ask what this would cause?
I can jb weld this back to normal right?
[quoted image][quoted image]

All my white star and Sam sterns did this. Just the way that part is. If you look at the new spike sterns they addressed it. Best temp fix is a zip tie, best fix is having it rewelded.
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That split caused all my games to shoot two balls or have balls keep bouncing in and out of the trough scoop.

#15 5 years ago

Ok right top pop and right sling... lemme check manual

Edit:

Ok so different control lines of course but same yellow/violet power. I would check for continuity on your control lines for each, all the way from the lug to the connector at the backbox.

Also make sure along the way you don’t have a break and the two control wires are connecting.

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#16 5 years ago

I really apprecaite all the help!

I will get this scoop solid and see if it helps

I know how to check for continuity with a meter, but how should I specifically check it on the control wires?

#17 5 years ago
Quoted from thestreetzking:

I really apprecaite all the help!
I will get this scoop solid and see if it helps
I know how to check for continuity with a meter, but how should I specifically check it on the control wires?

Ya, no problem. That’s what this forum is for If you look in my old posts, I had a ton of issues with a lwjp. People helped me and the best part is passing on what you learned to others!

I had my lwjp and tron ziptied for years until I found a local welder, I think it was $50 for 4 pieces to get re welded. Small job but worth it IMO. Jbweld may work, but I’m not familiar.

Ok, so continuity, you’ll find what plug the control wire goes to at the board in the backbox. Unplug and put one lead to that wire, then check the continuity to the coil lug, also check continuity at the other coils control wire lug. See if you get a connection to both. Then move to the other wire on the plug for the other coil, do the same test. If everything is good aka continuity is only to the correct coils, you have a driver/pre driver issue on the board.

#18 5 years ago

Rotten dog I smell bad mosfet.

#19 5 years ago
Quoted from Gunnut40:

Rotten dog I smell bad mosfet.

Ugh, I just put a RD board in a gottlieb sys1 and now have a coil not firing....is it common for them?

#20 5 years ago
Quoted from Gunnut40:

Rotten dog I smell bad mosfet.

Damn I just put this in!! How do I check

#21 5 years ago
#22 5 years ago
Quoted from northvibe:

Ugh, I just put a RD board in a gottlieb sys1 and now have a coil not firing....is it common for them?

I have replaced 2 mosfet within 2 months.

1 week later
#23 5 years ago

I bought another set of new optos. They are doing the same thing the other new set does. Not work.

They will not show up in test menu at all. They kick one ball out to start the game snd then send a ball into the trough upkicker but do not fire it into the shooter lane. So now a ball drains and since only 3 balls are in the trough it wont find the drain.

Also with these optos the vuk on the right side of playfield fires every 5 seconds.

1 week later
#24 5 years ago

I have no clue where to go. The old optos everything works correctly except 2 balls into lane. The new optos do not show up in test menu at all and cause 10 other issues. Im about to post this for sale with all the parts.

Also installed new roms with no change to anything

#25 5 years ago

Can someone post a pic of there trough and how the optos are wired please.

And now i notice when i hit the start button it gives me aliens. Which are rhe loop on the left. I have multiple targets scoring and the VUK firing randomly. No clue what happened but I have a lot of issues all of a sudden

3 weeks later
#26 5 years ago

Did you ever get your issues resolved? I’m having a similar problem with my Batman Forever. The trough VUK and shooter lane coil are firing randomly and repetitively. Sometimes it seems to begin after hitting the right flipper button, but sometimes it is also firing those two coils intermittently in attract mode.

#27 5 years ago

Unfortunately not. I feel like its past my expertise of repair. I have not touched the game since last post. I think last time i turned it on i had more issues than before. Its really upsetting when u spend 1000 on new boards and shit still dont work

I have shorts somewhere in the wiring. When i hit the start button it scores the top left rollover. Its killing me. I cant find a single hacked wire anywhere

#28 5 years ago

Check your manual. It will have the wiring for you to make sure the opto wiring is right. And the switch issue sounds like a diode to me. Check your switch diodes on your upper rollover and any switch thats not acting right like the start button and compare to your switch matrix chart.

If you find they are in a common row or column check all in that row/column. Easy to do and you will find your problem right quick.

Shorted diodes cause major havoc in a switch matrix. We will get through that then move on to the non working coil. We need a perfect switch matrix before we move on.

#29 5 years ago

the constant trough and shooter lane firing is an opto issue. Very common in SEGA's and sterns. Usually the reciever led goes first. Replace both LEDS on the trough VUK boards and you are good to go.

#30 5 years ago
Quoted from Hawk007:

the constant trough and shooter lane firing is an opto issue. Very common in SEGA's and sterns. Usually the reciever led goes first. Replace both LEDS on the trough VUK boards and you are good to go.

Thanks for the input. I’ll check it out tonight.

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