Dipsy Doodle
Williams, 1970Just got my first ever game back. It’s dipsy doodle and has a cluster of 5 pops up top. I’d like to maximize their power if I could. They are plenty sensitive, but want to add more kick.
Any tricks I can try? I believe the game is on high tap already (could use a refresher to check that too)
Thanks!
Quoted from dr_nybble:Have you rebuilt them with a kit from PBR?
I have not. Nor do I think the previous owner has. I will try cleaning the relay power contacts first then go from there.
Thanks!
Easy, cheap start: make sure the rods that go thru the pf move smoothly. Sometimes they catch a bit.
Upon visual inspection they could use a good cleaning at least, probably rebuild. I’ll look into the kits from pbr.
Actually the more I play this the more I might keep it the way it is. If you time you budges right you can get the pops to put your ball back in the top saucer where all the awards are. Or I might make some of them kick like mules and not the ones that feed the top saucer. Hmmmm.
Hi chuckwurt
IF (if, if) nothing else helps: We may talk about "what I did to my Shangri La". Cleaning switches and setting to High Tap did not help --- but cheating - making the bumpers to run on DC did help - the bumper-action changed from "lame" to "lively".
Your Dipsy Doodle runs the bumpers (as Shangri La) on AC. See the first JPG --- on top the wiring on rather modern Williams - ONE rectifier in the modern pin and the wiring "DC to all the bumpers".
I did NOT want to "heavy alter" the wiring in my pin - so I choosed the solution "ONE rectifier for ONE bumper" - so I made me four rectifiers (for the four bumpers in the Shangri La). In the lower part of the first JPG I show the solution on "Top Center Jet Bumper" --- see "my green dots" and "my red dots". I CUT the two wires to the Coil - mounted male and female plugs on each side (I can plug them together on both sides and have the bumper "on AC as before" --- but I sneaked-in my rectifier. See the second JPG - playfield lifted --- hanging on the wires / plugs: The ONE rectifier for the ONE Bumper.
Again - if nothing else helps: We may talk about "changing each bumper on its own to DC". Greetings Rolf
I have removed 3 winding layers from coils for max performance. Removing more than 3 layers of windings could make the coil look like a short.
I used to own a Doodle Bug where I thought the jet bumpers were a little sluggish. Williams did not switch to DC power for the bumpers and slings until a year or two later. At the least, replace all the coil sleeves with new (plastic) parts and wax the ring and the plastic skirt. That often helps a good bit.
You can always try switching the transformer to high tap as that is easily reversible and you can see how it plays.
I'll 2nd Rolf's recommendation and in the 2nd post in this thread it will show you the easy way to do it...
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/converting-em-flipperrelay-coils-from-ac-to-dc
I like this better than unwinding the coil because it is completely reversible.
I have done this to all of my machines, as others have suggested, rebuild the the pops. I clean all parts, sand plungers starting with 800, 1000, 1500, 2000. Does not take that long, but when dealing with 5 pops it can feel like it. Order all new parts for the pop (except the cap) New springs from PBR also help. Don't forget to order new light sockets. My rebuild pops on my '64 River Boat blow people away on play factor. Don't rush a restoration. You will be happy in the end.
The condition of the playfield below the pop bumpers can also make a difference. If there are adhesive mylar protectors around the pop bumpers, make sure the mylar is clean and in good condition. Novus 2 works good for cleaning mylar. If you have non-adhesive mylar around the pop bumpers, remove the mylar, clean that area of the playfield and put a few coats of carnauba wax around the pop bumpers. Without the mylar, the performance of the pop bumpers is greatly improved...
I had the same issue with my EM. Had one pop that was weaker than the rest. Was going to order parts and rebuild, but the guy at PBR talked me out of it saying that it probably wouldn't help. Turned out to be a relay issue. Cold/broken solder joint. Fixed it and now the game is twice as hard because the ball is-a-poppin!
Quoted from pinballdaveh:I have removed 3 winding layers from coils for max performance. Removing more than 3 layers of windings could make the coil look like a short.
It will act like a short too!
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