I've never had a PF coated, so take my advice with a grain of salt.

Ron Kruzman. Search his name on RGP- TONS of recommendations to use his services.

You could always do it yourself using varathane. Makes the playfield nice and shiny and protects well...and you can do it yourself and it will be ready to install in a few days...not months if you send it out.

The hardest part about "clearing" is removing all the crap and getting the surface clean.

Doesn't seem like that's going to be a problem, as you're getting a NOS field.

Robert

Heard great things about Ron Kruzman also, back when I was looking at getting a Paragon pf restored.

I'd also be interested in a recommendation. I have a (new) pf I'm going to have cleared as well, but looking to understand the difference in pf clearcoating vs, say, auto clearcoating. Aside from the difference in material the clear has to bond to ("painted" wood rather than painted metal) are there any other considerations as to how it's coated? There are a lot of old school auto painters around here (the kind that still hand sand layers of clear on a car) with beautiful results as well as the equipment. So I'm wondering what issues I might run into with having one of them do it - besides the really odd looks when I first bring it to them. "Why you wanna clear that perdy piece of wood?"

There have been many, many posts and opinions about playfield clearing.

This is one of those threads, and should keep you busy for a while:

http://groups.google.com/group/rec.games.pinball/browse_thread/thread/597c5217222e1877/45b068ed4fcb2fde?q=clearcoat+opinion&lnk=ol&#

Robert

+1,000

There are many opinions on DIY clearcoating. It's been debated to no end. You should have no problem finding hundreds of opinions, particularly on RGP.

I have cleared a few play fields with excellent results. I am a auto painter by trade and have been doing it for close to 20 years now.

Using a good high quality urethane clear will provide outstanding results. If the new playfield already has some clear on it you can wet sand it with 600 grit and put a 2 good coats on. That will be all you will need. That should give you close to 2 mil of clear which your ball will never wear through.

Don't let them use the cheap clear either. Depending on what brand the shop you choose say it was a Sherwin Williams shop (that's what we use) I use CC950 and then bake it in the booth at 165 degrees for 40 minutes after it's done. The clear flows out so smooth.

I haven't ever auto cleared a playfield, so my experience is by reading others opinions and results.

One thing to remember is not too get the clear too thick. I have read numerous posts where the clear developed dimples after being played for awhile.

How thick was it and how long did it dry first, don't really know.

I personally would probably try to varathane it myself, a NOS playfield should be pretty easy (relatively) to do.

If I was going to have someone auto clear it, I'd probably use felon's method of 2 mils plus a bake.

Robert

Thank you for clear coating your NOS playfield! Its one of the last, if not, THE last one for Gorgar (I've never seen one)! Now is the perfect time to do it!

Nice Find by the way!

-Aaron
Iowa Pinball Club

Neo or Ron are the two that I have had work done by, and I would suggest both of them...

However, you may want to look at the playfield and see if there is any damage or potential damage that you think it needs a clearcoat for. With an NOS playfield, if you wax it regularly you shouldn't have any issues. Also, some collectors would rather have a non-cleared playfield if you ever go for resale.

Depending on how blown out your other playfield is, you could also send it out to be cleared. That's like the best of both worlds.

Having said all that, I've cleared a few different playfields, and I love it personally. I have a cleared Mr & Ms Pac-Man and I think it really looks amazing, so it works really well on old games. If you want to do it, Neo does amazing work and so does Ron

From what I have heard is most people use varathane or some other product from Lowe's, Home Depot etc... Those clears aren't designed to stand up to abuse that automotive clears are designed for. The dimples they may be referring to is called "solvent pop". That is caused by the gases coming from the bottom layer of clear being trapped by the top lay. This can happen when the clear is applied to thick and to soon. Between each coat of clear the manufacturer has a recommendation for "flash" time. This should be followed strictly. To many people think that they will wait longer or add more coats that recommended to make it look better. Doing this will always end up with poor results.

Urethane clears are not like the old school lacquer paints where you would pound on 5-10 coats. A good quality high solids clear should never have more than 1 light tack coat and 2 wet coats. Should a person desire more then you need to wait for it to fully cure before wet sanding the top coat and applying more. On a playfield there should never be a reason to do more though.

ugg....a eight-year-old RGP pissing contest. No thanks.

cardfelon...your input was spot-on what I was looking for. Of the pfs you've done, has the game play after the clear changed to the point you regret clearing the pf?

I haven't regretted it at all. The play is so smooth on it. Also cleaning it has been quick and easy.

Very honorable of you. You're doing a favor to the community.

Many people believe a cleared playfield *does* in fact play differently.

You might ask Chad Keller

I have a NOS WCS 94 playfield on the way, and I'm torn as to what I'm going to do.

Wouldn't this already have factory clearcoat (i.e. Diamondplate?) Are today's clearcoats better than those of yesteryear?

cleared playfields do play different, but its neither good nor bad its just different, gorgar I would clear because your not going to find to many NOS ones floating around - keep it safe and perfect.

Yes, but the discussion is relevant.

Robert

Yes clear has evolved over the years. A good high quality clear today will outlast and perform anything from 10 years ago. But you can't just walk into your jobber (paint store) and get the cheapest stuff they have and expect it to last. Sure it will be glossy but it is thin and won't last like a good high solids clear.

I had Chad Keller do my KISS playfield and it looks and plays awesomely. Just do it.

Looks great so far!

Looks great Brian!

Please keep us updated, I am about to possibly do the same with a NOS Space Shuttle

Awesome, gonna be the nicest Gorgar playfield Ever. Looking foward to the progess updates.

Not only is the right, automotive epoxy clear harder, and more clear, the most important factor is finish materials were/are not made to sit 30-40 years then have the friction of a heavy ball rolled over them. AS with any finish, it may still look new, but at its age it is brittle, and will wear very fast. Even if it did not, since you are going to remove all of the parts and do an enormous amount of work, this is the time to make it perfect, and insure that it will last longer. I dont habve the time to write the book about the advantages of properly clearing a nos pf from the late 70's, but just imagine installing a nos prepainted body part that has been sitting in a garage corner, on to your newly restored 66' barracuda, without at least sanding and reclearing.
Lastly, and this is going to make a lot of people mad, but water based varathane, looks just horrible, and is not nearly hard enough. Of course this is the opinion of someone who clearcoats pf's for a living. (the ones that are used on restoration projects that sell for 12-15k) snob.

Also the right auto epoxy clear works great on pf's when done properly. Experience is very important. Naturaly the first one you do is not nearly as good as the 500th. There are a lot of tricks that dont show, but make the job look and last better and longer.

When does the install begin? I'll have to come check it out, looks fantastic!

I know an artist at CPR is working on the artwork for a GORGAR playfield. Those should hit the market in a year or so.

I used Pinball Pal stencils. I got a bunch of in-process pictures if you're interested. Wasn't the easiest thing I ever did but the result was well worth the effort.