Quoted from vid1900:Games like WH2O do not run through the levels of dimness with LEDs.
This is where herg's GI OCD controller board really shines (no pun intended). 
(Topic ID: 82700)
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Quoted from Bamaro:Warm white CT LEDs for GI, incandescents everywhere else.
I'm the opposite. Several of my games have incandescents for all the GI, but I almost always use LEDs for the inserts.
Quoted from SteveP3:Sure, 20 or 30 bucks to replace a 50 cent bulb sounds pretty sweet.
They will pay for themselves in a couple of years, as they only use a fraction of the electricity. For example, I replaced all the 65 watt incandescent flood lights in my basement with LED bulbs that only use 10.5 watts. The new bulbs are not only slightly brighter, but they are rated to last more than 20 years.
Quoted from Smurrill1:Every light scheme I've done has to be tweaked a whole bunch to avoid having an uncovered ultrabrite assaulting my eyeballs but still getting enough light onto the playfield.
This is where flexible LEDs really come in handy. A lot of people use them for inserts, but completely overlook them when it comes to GI. I love them because they put out a lot of light, and you can angle them away just enough to avoid direct exposure to your eyes. I use them under slings all the time.
Quoted from StevenP:I've also played a full-LED SM that was blinding and irritated my eyes with all the strobing and flickering.
Don't feel bad. It's not your fault. Your brain is just slightly defective and therefore highly susceptible to the strobing ... 
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