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Just picked up this speaker for $23 on amazon warehouse deals. We'll see how it runs for me!
https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B000V1RLM8/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00
And this input/output amp on aliexpress. I like the bare wire input on this amp. I can just use the wiring and not have to make or terminate ends.
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32840784342.html?spm=a2g0o.order_list.0.0.21ef1802y1RoRj
Quoted from John_I:Just to pop in with a note. The SPIKE 1 (DMD) and SPIKE 2 (LCD) audio setup is definitely different. CN5 on the SPIKE 2 is a nice way to get audio out with or without disconnecting the speakers from CN1 and CN4. On the SPIKE 1, I don't see a connector similar to the CN5, but there is a direct headphone out port on the board. FYI the schematics are all here:
https://sternpinball.com/support/
SPIKE 1: https://sternpinball.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/02/520-6936-01B-CPU-SPIKE-1-.pdf
SPIKE 2: https://sternpinball.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/02/520-7031-01E-SPIKE-2-CARRIER-universal.pdf
Double ended headphone cord would be easy to connect to a small simple amp. then wire the "outs" accordingly!
Quoted from db666:I've been following this thread with interest and thinking about swapping the speakers in GZ LE for the Kicker 5.25. However I'm unsure regarding the mounting. Is it necessary to 3D print something to mount them on or is there another way? ( I don't have a 3D printer). Thanks.
Check out speakerlightkits.com - if you get a light kit the mounts are $25. I love the kight kits in mine anyway, i'll do that while I replace my speakers
Quoted from RobF:I think I mentioned this somewhere before, but I ended up picking up a BLAUPUNKT AMP1604.
amazon.com link »
Going through all the amp tests that I could find on cheap amps, this one stood out as fairly decent (the reviews of the others were not so kind). At $66 it's cheaper than the FOSI and should have much cleaner output. It's certainly overkill and much bigger physically. It has several nice built in features; speaker and line level input, adjustable low, and high pass filters with individual gain adjustments. The only thing I wished it had was a dedicated low level sub output passthrough, but it's easy enough to put a splitter in. I don't have it fully wired in yet, so can give any impressions. If you are considering putting a few more bucks in an amp comparison, you may want to give this one a good look.
Could I bother you to please mock up a rudimentary schematic on your wiring when you get to it?
Quoted from davegauth:Why exactly would you want it inside the cabinet? It's not rhetorical, it's a legit question.
Sure you can tuck it away inside the cabinet. Nothing wrong with that. I understand it comes down to personal taste and reasons. But you will miss out on a ton of features that make this awesome if you tuck everything inside. So let's see if I can give some good reasons to mount it outside rather than inside.
People pay good money for adapters, plates, buttons etc. just to be able to control their pins volume via external controls. You can save that money and by mounting these mini amps up front like like I did. Now you get full volume control outside the machine. As a bonus you also get easy access to basic adjustments like sub woofer volume etc. A big plus.
You also get full control of the Bluetooth which is a HUGE killer feature. You will need access to the amp to be able to toggle the input(on some amps) and have access to the volume without having to dig around the inside of the pin.
By putting the amp inside you also lose the ability to turn the amp on and off. Sure you can wire it to one of the boards to draw power from. It does make sense on a high level to just have 1 button whole system power turn on. I thought this way at first too. Until I realized I'd rather have use of the killer Bluetooth feature without also turning on the pin. After some thought I also realized that not many people are comfortable tapping power off the Spike boards directly, there is just an element of risk there that people feel uneasy about taking. Having a completly separated system removes that risk, and the associated roadblock to doing this DIY. Not to mention it will help when it comes time to sell the pin too.
So why would you want to mount everything inside again?
I was totally curious and not in attack mode man.
Aesthetically - I wouldn't like it outside.
I wouldn't want or need those features if the pin wasn't on.
Would not want to drill into outside of cabinet for mounting reasons.
I have a stereo already
I wouldn't wire into the board - just use an ac - 12v dc adapter and plug into 110v plug - would come on with the pin switch
I would get it all set to the settings I would want and just leave it right down to the door volume adjustment
I would hope I had it dialed into sweet ass sound!
Quoted from PinTweeter:Hello everyone!
The amplifier and power solution are the two most challenging aspects and appear to present the most confusion among the community. In response to potential appetite for a reliable and simple solution, PinWoofer has developed a "Do-It-Yourself" amplifier for Stern Spike / Spike-2 and Late Jersey Jack platforms.
Some may not regard this as being purely "DIY", however, this offering is designed to be of benefit to those in the community who want an enabler for the remainder of their pinball audio project. This product is not for everyone, but it is for those who have the desire, knowledge of tool usage / wiring and the ability to be innovative as they work on their machine using the DIY amp as a foundation.
The PinWoofer DIY amplifier is an organic fit for these platforms, utilizing the factory speaker wires and comes with our tried-and-true power solution. You can stop there or continue to accessorize adding speakers, mounts and other interesting components to help you realize your goals. This amp is a huge step-up compared to stock and will produce results close to our flagship amplifiers. One drawback is that the controls are located in the backbox so adjustment must take place with the backglass removed; the thinking is to finalize adjustments and for the most part leave the amplifier controls static.
Please visit our website and view the product description at the below link if you have an interest in knowing more:
https://pinwoofer.com/accessories/diy/
Thank you for your time and have a great day![quoted image]
Why don't you knock 'er down to the $69.99 max it should be...
I am getting myself ready for my Godzilla arrival (if ever!!)
I am going to tackle it with making a plug and play setup for myself so it’s easily 100% reversible if ever needed to be.
-Doug’s 5-1/4 light kit and adapter.
- $34 AliExpress amp uncased.
- going to make molex harnesses to go to board and click right into amp.
-find a 12-24v power supply anywhere
-super pro speaker for cabinet.
I’m not looking for crazy audiofile over the top shit. I want it to be loud and clear and snappy.
I may build all this in for my Deadpool first and it if it kicks ass, I’ll just re-up the parts for Godzilla
AB7AE05A-7604-4686-BCEE-F3F8CE48825C (resized).jpegDD5A3742-0EDE-4430-921B-68617463C1E5 (resized).jpegDFB26B6A-7DEE-4398-A105-735DEAF86E27 (resized).jpegQuoted from PoMC:Here are the photos of the backbox connectors. The CN1 and CN4 Output to a 1/8 inch jack to the left right RCA connectors that are plugged into the amplifier
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
Does this unit combine the sub and front speakers (three sets of wires) into one output???
I'm thinking I may need something like this for my output to my small cheapo amp
EDIT: - I am now seeing this comes with the 370$ full set from pinwoofer -
Spike output (resized).jpg
Yeah, that's where i'm confused. That looks easy to grab and use. Would I just use one side of that connector to fo to my little amp with 1 - 3.5mm male to male and not have to use the 'sub" side? or would I be missing out on the lows from the pin if I didnt use it? Because my amp only has 1 input.
Quoted from Sleal16:So in my current setup, i just have the L+R from the adapter into the amp. So its just the stereo single input to my amp, and I have the cab+backbox speakers to the amp. Nothing else. I'm getting a great range of lows to highs.
Great to know, Thanks. appreciated.
I may grab a couple then, they'll be quite easy to use.
There's also the setup from PinWoofer that's almost identical but has the small board with the three outputs. $30 usd
Quoted from barroncaliber:i put in my speakers ok but did not do well when it came to the amp . but this thing is amazing and maybe $50 more then what i spent on parts before . its a much more permanent way to do things and sounds great . 5 minute install and done . https://pinwoofer.com/pinwoofer-stern-diy/
Agreed, if this was $140 i'd be all over that shit!
Quoted from Pin_Fandango:Every time I come back here there are more and more posts but now things are getting a bit more fuzzy.
I have re-started reading this thread 3 times now, but I cant keep track any longer and really do not have the time to read 15 pages.
It would be nice if the op or someone with the power and knowledge to add key posts so we can just read the actual steps for cha ging the speakers and not the extra chatter.
I do appreciate the efforts, but I am sure I am not alone here. I really tried reading the thread wven started bookMarking but there is just too much.
What I gather from the last posts is that is now recommended to add an amp?
I can Key post anything if someone has the posts earmarked for that
It would really beneficial to have a real good summary post made instead of new info being brought in all the time. Or set aside the posts so far that can give a DIY'er a solid set of instructions to follow and "get at it", buy the parts, create, play, listen/enjoy
Quoted from davegauth:Go back to Page 9, post #415
Or see this link -
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/improving-sound-quality-the-diy-route/page/9#post-6844596
There is summary till that point.
Making summaries, and updating summary posts takes a ton of time. So they will come when they can.
Until then, you may just have to filter through the posts as quickly as you can.
that's fine, but what one really needs now is a summary of instructions with the parts needed to complete the job with an educated guess at which the best parts to use. You compared and compared, which is all the good pre-education stuff. etc. Time to figure out the parts that one can make a "template" of exactly what to do, and use.
Quoted from davegauth:Well said.
Anyone can stop here and pick from all the items tested thus far, have read about, and have decided its the right gear for them.
I've mentioned that the best thus far(In my opinion and comparisons) is the Alpine or Kicker backbox speakers, And the JBL sub tends to work very well. If you want to amp it up - as of now I prefer the Dayton even though it's not the best feature wise and can't be 1 button turn on. This is a real good starting point for anyone who wants to get a pin upgraded now. Then you can experience where I'm at, and use it as a reference for any new gear I test and compare back to.
Or - you can hang out a little longer and see what else I get a chance to test and categorize and compare. I'm sure there will be some new and interesting things to pop up.
Or, as mentioned - step off the edge and try something new and not covered yet. There are so many cool"other" ideas members have posted that are really interesting. Sound bars, center channels, monster subs, automotive amps, amp/eq's, array speakers taken out of a flat screen... These experiments posted by others get the inner geak going and really help test and show new ideas with good writeups.
But the point is also taken - It's alot of data that is still growing, and without a BOM it's still hard to know what to do.
No, not really, I have bought all my parts and just awaiting to toss it all in. Guys have asked about a summary. And instead of rooting through 600-700 posts, it would be nice to see a simplified idea on the 6-7 parts needed to hammer off a new system.
I get what your doing but dropping $ non stop looking at new parts would be a forever attempt at something. Like you haven't seen enough of each yet to make an informed idea on what you would use/keep in your pin?
I ran through your post with the summaries. Will be difficult to find just browsing, I took the links and made Key Posts for the thread top Topic Index
Quoted from davegauth:3/4" should be fine.
Let's stop with the inuendo's please.
Settle down.
Anyone have a good source for to pick up a handful of Z connectors like this so can make my own cables leaving my amp, and have the setup completely reversible and ready to plug speaker right back into main board.
Thanks in advance
B0D92293-2CC2-4520-BD91-25EE8C8B836B (resized).jpegD150A5A0-A892-4325-A5E6-38481D7ED83F (resized).jpegYou're currently viewing posts by Pinsider northerndude.
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