That's interesting. Does it include a native DSP (Sigma I assume) ? Where did you get it ?

Cheers

Tips and trick.

Take a white wire. Roll it around a piece of pipe for the whole length, just like a coil. Apply yellow paint, let it dry, unroll. Voilà, you've got your striped wire.

I live in Europe, hopefully I can find them as well.

So I've been looking, Dayton Audio carries them under two different product line, KABD and DSPB. They seem interesting, but I could not find a 2.1 version, which I think would be preferred in this use case (I think the one you have is a 4x100W amplifier, right ? 119 euros in Europe).

Would be curious to see what you manage to build with it.

Also, has anyone experimented with dual coil subwoofers ?

[EDIT] actually, this specific 4x amplifier is also perfect for dual coil subwoofer: 2.0 for main speakers, and 2.0 for dual coil

I think 4x100W is rather overkill, I would think 4x30w is sufficient given the speaker size

I have bought from PU-Parts in Europe some 4" speaker plate without the bars. But yes... it's not centered... Which is really a mistery to me as to why

Finding the recommended parts is proving complicated in France, at least for the sub.

I did find easily the Kicker CSC4 or CSC5, but JBL Stage 810 is not available except at Conrad (which is OK I guess but would not have been my go to choice for speakers). It might good if others could share their experience with alternative sub speakers that can be more easily sourced worldwide.

Also, has anyone tested the JBL Club 4020 and compared them to the Kicker or Alpine ? I've read the thread about Kicker vs JBL, but I'm not familiar enough with JBL linup to determine if the Club 4020 are the same category than the tested speakers.

Why these Club 4020 ? Because well... They look gorgeous Would fit very nicely using a round opening instead of the current grill opening

Forgot to mention indeed that I do have an adapter ring I designed (3D printing) for these Club 4020. I just wonder for my newly arrived GZ if I should go to the Kicker or Alpine. Guess I'll try the Kicker, they are easily available (but they don't look as nice ). I do have also a few amps to test with (both with and without DSP)

I used PU-parts metal speaker panel with a small 3d printed adapter for jbl club 4020, it looks very nice.

Also replaced the sub with a Pyle PLPW8D. It's a dual coil sub, which I wired in series to get 8 ohm. I used this one because it was easily available.

Out of the box, there is a far more distinct rumble in the cabinet. Now need to adjust the equalizer to get better quality out of the backbox speakers

20221101_202612 (resized).jpg

Has anyone designed a spacer ring for the subwoofer in the cabinet, to increase clearance between the woofer and the grid?

I can probably quickly design one though

Why not split it in two parts ? One for the plate, one for the speaker ring.

Here's a design I made a while ago to adapt JBL Club 4020, it has a groove for a ledstrip. It could be mounted on top of the speaker plate, flat without the spacer

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5318717

Design is provided with Fusion original file, so you can adjust dimension to match your specific speakers. It's currently designed for 4" speaker replacement

20220226_133452_Medium (resized).jpg

Well with 3D printing you can accomodate pretty much everything. That said, I'm using 4" speakers on my Premium, which has 4" speakers, the adapter is primarily to add a spacer and adjust for screw hole location

Quick pictures of a DIY speaker plate adapter I designed for my Pyle subwoofer, to add clearance and to adjust the screws (which are too short for the new sub). I'm using M3 screws which are fitted from the bottom (there is an opening to fit the screw head). There's also clearance around each nut of the original screws to allow to fit the toolhead (otherwise you can't screw the nut)

It's really a straight design, nothing fancy, if there's an interest I can post it

20221127_164053 (resized).jpg

20221127_165701 (resized).jpg

Is that right? I had not realized the grid added so much thickness

Ah got it, I was not referring to this point.

In my case the studs are waaayyyyy too short, so I would need to replace them to be able to fit the Pyle speaker. Hence the adapter, because it was faster for me to design and print than order just 4 screws

On another note, this time for Stern SAM: there is no real line out on SAM CPU board, so I essentially see two options:

- Solder headers on the two test points for audio on the CPU board. These are well documented, but it's not really practical because ground is nowhere close, so from the wiring perspective it would look ugly. But benefit would be clean line out just before the amp section
- Use an amplified-to-line converter. I tried to look up schematics and principle diagram, it seems to be a super simple 10 to 1 divider circuit. Is there any quality impact ?

Also trying to understand stereo vs mono, based on the schematics, one channel is driven to backbox, one channel is driven to cabinet for sub. But the filtering seems completely identical on the schematics. Taking a look at alternate replacement speaker, I can see they add a big low pass filter to the sub.

My assumption therefore is that the output is actually stereo, and filtering is done on the speakers themselves. So in theory, I could add a speaker-to-line adapter, add a 2.1 amplifier and feed natively from there backbox and cabinet speaker. Of course, source material is probably mono anyway, but at least wiring wise that would be relatively straightforward.

Thoughts ?

You need to get a hold of the schematics of this board. Otherwise it will be rather difficult to figure out what is what, aside from experimenting and identifying from the connector silkscreen.

At a minimum, please provide a close up picture of each connector, with the labels clearly visible so we can try to figure out from there what is what

Looks like the speaker adapters STL files links are gone, would anyone be able to share them ?

Also, I recall seeing a full 5" printed plate, equivalent to the metal plate used on various website (see below), but can't find the link to the STL, has this been posted ?

Regards

Good morning everyone !

Would anyone in this thread (especially the original poster) have experience on audio electronics board design ? As in real board design, not just using an existing amplifier.

We have designed a custom board (long story...) with on board TDA8932 modules, and we are experiencing 50Hz noise injection (a very distinct 50hz buzzing sound) from the ground plane (the board is powered with AC through a rectifier, and when we power directly with DC connection, the noise is gone). We have separated on the board ground for the amplifiers output from the main board ground, but the modules themselves have a direct connection between these two ground planes.

Analog circuitry and ground loop diagnosis is really not my strong point, so I would welcome any advise.

Regards