(Topic ID: 307852)

Improving Sound Quality - The DIY Route

By davegauth

2 years ago


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    Topic index (key posts)

    11 key posts have been marked in this topic, showing the first 10 items.

    Display key post list sorted by: Post date | Keypost summary | User name

    Post #5 Simple front speaker swap instructions Posted by davegauth (2 years ago)

    Post #41 Cabinet speaker replacement instructions/info Posted by davegauth (2 years ago)

    Post #162 Kicker vs JBL speaker comparison Posted by davegauth (2 years ago)

    Post #165 MBQuart vs Alpine speaker comparison Posted by davegauth (2 years ago)

    Post #186 Kenwood vs Pyle speaker comparison Posted by davegauth (2 years ago)

    Post #244 Stern amplifier and sound signal output INFO Posted by davegauth (2 years ago)

    Post #269 5.25" speaker overall ranking to date Posted by davegauth (2 years ago)

    Post #352 Speaker baffles info and summary Posted by davegauth (2 years ago)

    Post #392 Adding an Amplifier (General) INFO Posted by davegauth (2 years ago)

    Post #424 Thingverse file link for printing 5.25" speaker mount Posted by Sleal16 (2 years ago)


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    #240 2 years ago

    Audio info is something that still is cloudy for me on specs... But I tried searching for an answer and see different recommendations.

    Watts provided by an amp. I'm looking at using the kicker csc5 with gold wood 8" 190w for the cab speaker. General recommendations say to get an amp twice the running power... So to get these up and running I'd need a 700w amp?

    Ive seen here mentioned the 200w Dayton to run 50w per kicker plus 100 for the sub... Maybe that's good enough?

    I've run through this thread a couple of times and not sure if I've missed these requirements/suggestions explanation for running an amp

    #243 2 years ago
    Quoted from Good-Times:

    I think the main thing to be aware of is that under powering speakers is usually the most dangerous. I reckon ideally we'd use 200-500w on the woofer, but 100w seems to be the most we can garner from these tiny T-amps before you go to a hifi-sized power amplifier for example. We're probably not seeking maximal volumes from our machines as you might in say a car audio environment, so yes I think 200w would be idea but 100w will suffice.
    In my example above, I do have the sub level on maximum, and reckon I could do with more to the sub than the mids, but you'd again need to be looking at two amps possibly, if you really wanted to be choosey with all that.

    Cool cool. Yeah, guess since theres overall great results with people using amps in that watt range I should be good then. Just ordered speakers, sub, and amp for IMDN, so looking forward to hearing the results.

    #251 2 years ago
    Quoted from Good-Times:

    I’ve just switched to the Kicker speakers (about to change cab woofer and add an amp), but the difference is significant. Mainly with detail like when you drain and the city is on fire (Godzilla), I’m hearing fire for the first time. All the detail is audible now. WAY better. Even if you don’t go any further this is majorly worthwhile here.
    I also removed the foam - less hindrance of the upper frequencies.
    [quoted image][quoted image]

    I'm curious on the adapter used for the kicker, is that the one from thingiverse? if so, did you print as is or did you make adjustments to make the the ring on the speaker fall in on the inside of the printed plate?

    #254 2 years ago
    Quoted from Good-Times:

    Yeah this is the one, no adjustments at all. You mount the 4x speaker screws first, with a locknut at the other side. Then you mount the adaptor to the speaker panel. Lastly you mount your speaker to the adaptor plate using another nut tightened agains the locknut.
    You obviously get some 'cropping' due to the opening but at least it tapers nicely.
    Initially I printed with 20% infill and that's fine, but think I'd go 25 or 30% next time to be sure.
    https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5182150[quoted image]

    Gotcha. Yeah just printed mine and the kicker's ring sits on top of the print. I'm debating if its worth taking the model into fusion to widen that opening on the bracket so the speaker fully drops into place

    2022-03-03 21.18.56 (resized).jpg2022-03-03 21.18.56 (resized).jpg2022-03-03 21.19.09 (resized).jpg2022-03-03 21.19.09 (resized).jpg
    #256 2 years ago

    oh nice! yeah I like the design and will see about weather stripping. Wont install till over the weekend when I have more time to mess with the wiring. Just planning ahead and getting the parts ready to make it a quick swap

    #259 2 years ago
    Quoted from Good-Times:

    That’s weird, mine is completely flush. Your slicer didn’t reduce the model size at all?

    Nope. Just measured with a caliper. That measurement matches the model's ring opening in fusion360 about 121.3mm

    #262 2 years ago
    Quoted from davegauth:

    @Steal16
    You are fine - the Kickers are designed to be flush mounted(mounted face down) You are touching the gasket around the speaker that you are supposed to be against when mounting it this way. You do not have to be against the metal basket(frame of the speaker) when mounting it flush. Let it touch the gasket so it give it more surface area for a decent air seal and you are good to go. Then go take a look at post #79 and see where I talk about noise cancelation with this design. Then take the 4 little slots and hot glue them, silicone them, or stick in something to block them up if you can. You don't want air from the back of the speaker and the front of the speaker mixing so quickly. This has a noise canceling effect. (Glad to see it's being acknowledged as a thing now #88)

    Yeah, was thinking of silicone or similar for that gap thing you mentioned. Was restless last night and drew out a quick adapter just for the kickers that might seal it off. Printing right now and will see if it fits fine. Will need around with different options. Thanks!

    #263 2 years ago

    It came out alright. Need to make adjustments to the openings where it gets bolted to the plate. But least it fits snuggly into the bracket and no air gaps

    PXL_20220304_231633383 (resized).jpgPXL_20220304_231633383 (resized).jpgPXL_20220304_231642736 (resized).jpgPXL_20220304_231642736 (resized).jpgPXL_20220304_231705146 (resized).jpgPXL_20220304_231705146 (resized).jpgPXL_20220304_233409370 (resized).jpgPXL_20220304_233409370 (resized).jpg
    #271 2 years ago
    Quoted from davegauth:

    Good job on the re-design.

    Thanks! After a couple more tweaks it fits a bit better than that last design. Now need to make some time to solder the molex into the wires the speakers came with. Got an amp that I need to go back and review this thread or other places to see about options on using power from within the machine or run it outside with external power source.

    #273 2 years ago
    Quoted from davegauth:

    What amp did you go with? Does it have bluetooth?

    This one

    Fosi Audio BT30D Bluetooth 5.0 Stereo Audio Receiver Amplifier 2.1 Channel Mini Hi-Fi Class D Integrated Amp 50 Watt x2+100 Watt for Home Outdoor Passive Speakers/Subwoofer Powered Subwoofer https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07K7NJ4QN/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_i_8KP625BBC1BBMABMTDF3

    #281 2 years ago
    Quoted from davegauth:

    Nice - I have one here I'm getting ready to put in and compare to the Dayton.
    You may want to slow down on connecting the power to internals of the cabinet. I complelty understand the one button turns it all on thing. BUT - there is a huge bennifit I missed when first thinking about this.
    At first I thought nothing of the Bluetooth feature - just kind of a waste. But holy cow it's actually awesome! Probably the killer feature when you have good backbox speakers, and a good sub in it. It will easily out perform any Bluetooth speaker and should sound as good if not better than any $300-$500 bookshelf system. At first I thought it was a novelty use thing. But I use it all the time now to listen to music or podcast while tooling around the house.
    By keeping it 2 button operation, you can just walk by and turn the amp power on and start streaming without having to turn the pin on.[quoted image]

    Going point on having it as a boombox type setup outside of the game. Got the speakers up and running as-is as a replacement to the stock earlier in the day. When I get home tomorrow I'll mess with adding the amp and the cabinet speaker. Speakers on their own was a nice bump in oomf, but yeah, still need to mess with the cab one to see how much better IMDN will sound

    #292 2 years ago

    So i want to make quick snap on/off harnesses for the speakers. I can just wire them directly to the amp, but for some reason I am a stickler for shifting things around if I want to later. I cant tell what kind of 4-pin molex the 2 speakers in the backbox join into before heading into the board and curious if someone might know what model adapter that might be?

    #295 2 years ago
    Quoted from TinyBlackDog:

    https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Molex/03-06-1044?qs=th8CuLdcYnn3SuU5k7nxNQ%3D%3D
    https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Molex/02-06-1103?qs=359VwiUTsp0rVi3UDduwvw%3D%3D
    I mentioned this in my post on improving Rush LE audio here:
    https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/the-official-rush-owners-club-1/page/37#post-6808277
    Just to be clear - the above are if you want to create the cable from the speakers to an amplifier. Should be simple to figure out the opposite gender version from the spec sheets listed above.

    Perfect! thanks! sucks the crimp socket things are out of stock, but I'm sure I can find those available elsewhere

    #357 2 years ago
    Quoted from davegauth:

    My Fosi(BT30D) does not have a switch for bluetooth.. it selects Bluetooth and rca input automatically. Priority goes to RCA and overrides when Bluetooth device tries to connect.
    Guessing we have different Fosi amps.

    Yeah, mine has a little toggle switch. Still need to hook it up along with he cabinet replacement. Been slowly looking at the config and hadn't realized that the 7pin cn5 has a sub out. But guess that's for standalone and won't go into the amp and won't be used.

    #359 2 years ago

    Derp. Nvm. Looked at the toggle and read what was above it and thought it correspondent to each other. See now it's a power toggle, lol. Yeah it's still on my bench so had just a couple of quick glances as I've been ordering little adapters and such

    1 week later
    #393 2 years ago
    Quoted from davegauth:

    DIY Round 7....
    Let's talk amplifiers.. The second Whoooaaa moment...
    This is an area that scares many people and probably one of the biggest roadblocks that stops people from going any further in the DIY sound upgrade area. What amplifier do I use, how do I wire it, where do I connect it, and so on...
    I covered the stock class D amplifier chips built into the Spike board a couple pages back, with its specs and limitations. Now it's time to upgrade that stock amplifier in order to get the most out of your pinball sound system. Updated the stock amplifier can net you 2x,3x, even 4x more power going to your speakers, and it's easy and inexpensive to do.
    Let's demystify some things...
    The first question usually is - What amplifier do I get, will it work with my machine? The answer is as simple as - Any, and Yes.
    Any amplifier will work, however; you are most likely going to settle into a class D mini amplifier that will cost around $30-$125ish. If you are spending more for an amplifier you are going beyond the upper limits of "Bang for the Buck" performance levels. Class D simply refers to the type of amplifier, sometimes it's called Digital Amplifier - though it's incorrect as that is not what the D stands for. All you need to know about class D amplifiers is they based off amplifier micro chips, they are inexpensive to make, small in size and are very efficient turning most of their input power into output power with little heat generation. The majority of consumer level amplifiers sold in big box stores like Best Buy etc. are now Class D. Almost all blue tooth speakers are Class D. Almost all bookshelf speakers are Class D. They are everywhere. Mini-amplifiers are simply just the parts of the electronics that are associated with amplifying the incoming signal(RCA) and sending out an amplified signal that powers the speakers. When you strip all the extra stuff off of a bookshelf stereo - CD Player, speakers, casing, display, buttons etc. You are left with just the amplifier electronics allowing mini amps to be small and inexpensive.
    Will it work with my machine? YES it will work with ANY machine. There is no mystery here, no dark secret, no rocket science or engineering needed. If you can get an audio signal out of your machine, then you can use any amplifier on any machine you want. Think of it this way, If you purchase a nice bookshelf stereo for your home, do you wonder if it will be compatible with your phones Bluetooth? Probably not - you assume that as long as the Bluetooth connects to the stereo then the phone will provide the necessary signal to the stereo and the stereo will simply do it's thing. Your pinball machine is no different. You are basically turning your pinball machine into a stand alone stereo. Yes the speakers are still mounted in the cabinet, and your amplifier will live somewhere in or on the machine. But they will be completely separate systems, the only link between them will be the sound signal connecting the pin to your new stereo.
    Second question often asked - how do I wire it all up? It's easier than you think, so don't ever complicate this to start.
    Your amplifier will need 3 things. An Audio signal, speaker wires, and a power source.
    - Audio signal, we covered this pretty good a few pages back. In summary, an adapter of some kind will create the RCA level input you need for the amplifier.
    - Speaker wires, the stock speaker wires used in your pin will just be disconnected at the speakers and not used anymore. It makes little sense to try re-using the stock wires. They are too small(gauge wise) and too short(length wise) to bother with them. Simply disconnect them, leave them in the pin to hook back up again later, or remove them to keep everything super clean. I'm pretty sure everyone here has purchased a roll of speaker wire and wired speakers before. This will be no different, positive to positive - negative to negative, left - Right - sub. easy stuff. As far as wire size, 18-16ga will do just fine(I use 16ga).
    - Power supply. Ok - I admit this is the one that throws everyone for a loop. BUT don't hurt your brain and overthink this one. Eat the elephant one bite at a time and don't get to far ahead of yourself. The most important thing here is how much power do you need and NOT where do I plug it in. This part gets a little technical, because depending on the amplifier you choose to go with, you will have to have an understanding of how to figure out how much power you need and hence the size of the power supply. Fist off - keep in mind power in equals power out.(It's more technical than that, but for simplicity) An amplifier can not put more power than it takes in. So if you have an amplifier that says it can do 50 watts x 2 for the backbox speakers and 100 watts for the subwoofer. Then that adds up to 200 total watts of output. Meaning you will need a power supply that will give you 200 watts of input power. All power supplies will have specs written on them. Output power is generally indicated in Volts and Amps. (Think of a water pipe, volts being water pressure and amps being size of the pipe, and watts being how much total gallons of water made it through the pipe) The formula is simple: Volts x Amps = Watts. In the example above, if you need 200 watts and say your amplifier calls for a 12 volt input. Then you can do the back math and determine that your power will have to be 12volts x 16.7amps = 200 watts. If you were using a mini-amplifier with a requirement of 24 volts input then it would be 24volts x 8.4amps = 200 watts. Easy right? No matter which type of power supply you choose to use, a plug and play power brick, or metal cased power supply with terminal lugs - the math will be the same.
    Curve ball time...... There are a couple rules of thumb when choosing a power supply.
    - Amplifiers are stupid optimistic about their ratings claims. In the case above that amplifier you determined needed 200 watts. Really only needs about 60-70% of that to run optimally. Anything beyond that will usually push the limits of the amp into distortion, clipping, and noise that isn't pleasant. That 1984 Hugo says it can do 85 on the highway, but you are best to stick with 50mph for best results. There is much more that goes into this, but as a general rule of thumb plan for about 50-75% of capacity and you will be just fine.
    - Voltage matters. Amplifiers will put out the most wattage when the voltage matches the higher end of their specifications. This is super technical, I'll link to a video if you want to geek out. But in general a simple Class D amplifier is limited by the voltage it receives. The voltage determines the rails, or parameters/limits the amplifier can amplify in. So if you have a mini amp that says it can operate from 12 - 26 volts, you will get significantly more output running it with a 24 volt power supply versus sticking a 12volt supply on it. Again, super technical - just remember run closer to the upper limits of the input voltage.
    For the geek in you -
    - There are other considerations and technical things that can come up. But for now let's not over think this, as it's really pretty easy.
    And lastely, Where do I connect the amplifier power to in the machine? This is easy - and one step at a time, keep it simple.
    - Start by wiring it directly to the wall with a separate plug. This will work just fine. Then with everything working you can think about how you want to connect it to power inside the pin and make it a 1 button turn on. There are a few ways to wire it into the pin for 1 button turn on. However; the general consensus is not to tap any power off the boards. Yes, it can be done - but it is simply not worth doing it. It's best to keep the boards completely isolated from your amplifier wiring and avoid any possibility of board issues later. AC Power for your new amp can simply be tapped in right after the main power switch in the backbox.
    And there you have it - Amplifiers demystified. Hopefully - maybe - just a little bit.....
    Hope this helps, feel free to add to this or correct/highlight any helpful thought you may have.
    Next writeup - we'll cover the types of amps that can be used and pro's and con's etc.

    In case this question was covered before in a post and I missed it (LOTS of info about setups and IFs)...With the cab speaker and the amp. Is the cab speaker beign swapped into the sub connection of the newly installed amp? or staying where its at? Is the connected sub in your previous adapter post still connected to the pinsound adapter?

    Theres that nice write up in the Rush thread with the upgraded audio equipment I need to go back and re-read. Theres a lot of stuff I need to re-read, but just havent had time yet to put in the amp yet either.

    #395 2 years ago
    Quoted from davegauth:

    Yep, the first whoooaaa moment comes when you swap out the stock speakers with some good ones. This includes the backbox speakers and the speaker in the cabinet. The cabinet speaker really needs to be swapped to more of a subwoofer (versus mid-bass, or another full range etc) This helps with speaker alignment(overlap of frequencies) etc. You can drive them pretty good with the Stock stern amp and it makes a huge difference.
    Then when you are ready for the next step- you get the next whooooaaa moment when you add an amplifier to power those new speakers. Many amplifiers now come in a 2.1 flavor. meaning they have 2 channels(A Left and a Right) that you will wire the backbox up with, and a Subwoofer channel that will go too the cabinet speaker/sub. In most cases a 2.1 Class D amp in a 2.1 flavor will have 2 amplifier chips inside of it. One will be running in stereo and split it's power between the two speakers. The second chip will be running bridged and will combine both it's channels to run one mono signal for the sub. It's usually why you see specifications of output power listed as 50x2 + 1x100. If you are running a car amplifier, then you would want a 4 channel amp and you would bridge 2 of the channels to make a dedicated sub channel.
    There are definitely some different directions to be had too - it is absolutely possible to run 2 separate amplifiers to power the backbox and then the subwoofer off the second amp. But you will be pushing beyond bang for the buck, and easier connection of a 2.1 mini amp readily available. I've seen some people just run a separate powered subwoofer, and completely disconnect the cabinet speaker.

    But pretty much you're ignoring the sub connection from the 7pin direct output, right? And just using the l/r connection by itself?

    #397 2 years ago
    Quoted from davegauth:

    Yes, exactly. The sub output is just dangling from the CN5 Pinsound adapter. What I have going into the amp is just the L+R stereo output from the CN5 pinsound adapter. The 2.1 amp is then creating the lower frequency sub output to drive the subwoofer inside the cabinet, from the L+R CN5 output.

    Awesome! Thanks for the info. That was the kinda last note on my to-do for this. Wasnt sure if that 7th pin had any real benefit

    #424 2 years ago
    Quoted from davegauth:

    Another DIY mount - https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/improving-sound-quality-the-diy-route/page/2#post-6743897
    ThingiVerse file for new mount - ****I can't find this post anymore, I thought someone uploaded a new revised adapter that fixed the air gap issues and posted about it being uploaded on thingiverse***

    This one? https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5317827

    Thats the one SlapDrain uploaded from the STL file I made to remove the airgaps specifically for the kickers 5.25"

    #439 2 years ago
    Quoted from JeffF:

    That's surprising for how much they charge. It's the same amplifier I've used for half a dozen or so projects over the years. Here is one in my America's Most Haunted running off a separate 24v power supply. Nothing special about it except it's cheap and available on eBay. [quoted image]

    So you found those boards to be pretty reliable? 20-25 bucks doesn't sound bad. Guessing the 50-80 dollar amps on Amazon with the 200w max total would provide equal performance

    #443 2 years ago
    Quoted from davegauth:

    That didn't take long. $20 shipped, this definitely becomes a good option for anyone wanting to DIY.
    It uses the same TPA3116 chip set in many of the mini-amp available too. Granted it's probably a clone, and not a true Texas instrument chip. But, hey for $20 it's an amp board that has been used quite a bit and seems to work just fine. I'm pretty sure I've seen some youtube videos testing it too.

    Yeah, once I get to read up on this thread again and a couple of other places on tapping in to the power, like the board pinwoofer uses as an example, might move to doing it like this moving forward. 3d print some enclosures for protection, find speakers that I really like (prob stick with the kickers), etc etc.

    #444 2 years ago
    Quoted from PoMC:

    Here are the photos of the backbox connectors. The CN1 and CN4 Output to a 1/8 inch jack to the left right RCA connectors that are plugged into the amplifier
    [quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

    still curious on sticking with the default audio output used vs the direct line of the cn...5 was it? Think for the simplicity of it, would end up using the pinsound type adapter (or make my own, but I hate ordering those headers. sometimes cant find easily in stock)

    #447 2 years ago
    Quoted from PoMC:

    This morning I removed the Pinwoofer Kit from Avengers. I’m swapping it over to Aerosmith so I took the stock speakers out of Aerosmith and installed in Avengers.
    First thing I noticed when I started the game, was how much better the game sounded with the stock speakers. I don’t know why that is, I never played Avengers with the stock speakers because I received it in a trade with the pinwoofer kit already installed. I always hated the way the game sounded so I’m happy with the end result.
    I haven't installed the kit in Aerosmith yet, been working on this while on teams calls for work.
    [quoted image]

    Now I reread it... Understood it wrong the first time around.

    So AIQ sounded better with stock everything vs the upgrades.... Curious if maybe they filters were not removed to give cleaner control to the amp? Also, AIQ I tested once stuff just replacing the amp and some things sounded better, but others not so much. One thing is I didn't know about the filters back then. Second, the bad artifacts I was heading came out more pronounced. Even with the headphone adapter going to cn5 or whatever, really didn't like how that was processed. Feels like might be bad at the source.

    #457 2 years ago

    2 weeks of having the parts for IMDN and finally took the time to get it all set up...all i can say is *drool

    Didnt realize the 8" sub i got to replace the cab speaker was the same model Stern uses for the LE's. Well at least my GZ has the same goldwin. Might still need to slightly tweak the amp and the games settings to get it just right. Not sure if its a good thing, but sound effects overpower the music in the game it seems now. Overall loving the results so far.

    #459 2 years ago

    yeah, that combo. Glad that once I can get it all set up properly that volume control can still be set up front at the coin door

    #462 2 years ago
    Quoted from davegauth:

    Nice.
    Now just a little bit of time dialing in the settings and you will be set.
    I have the Fosi, Nobsound, and Dayton here. I've had all of them running but still working through reviewing them. Hopefully, I can finish up and get writeups done soon.

    Think the main thing I need to be patient with is the gains/filters/etc. From random reads people say to turn off all filters and let the amp run things, but as I'm messing with the EQ vs no filter, looks like i'm getting better results with tuning an active EQ filter. Its the daunting part. What to leave at what dial setting on the amp to pair up with game audio settings. I'll do it during the day when I can crank it up louder to soak in every little tweak

    #469 2 years ago
    Quoted from davegauth:

    Lol - I like to rock out.
    I use the volume on the amp to control overall volume, so I don't have to mess with the pin volume.

    Heh, i'm like the opposite. I like to control it at the coindoor. Though, keeping the volume on high in the amp screws with how the speakers power off. Once I get it where I want to I'll work on moving the amp from the backbox up to the front. Thanks for all the other info!

    #474 2 years ago
    Quoted from davegauth:

    @Steal16
    Reference pics. This is with Kicker CS5, with JBL. Game set at 35 vume, backbox speakers set to 8 ohms.
    Your mileage may vary, but a starting point.[quoted image][quoted image]

    I like the way this brought out the music, but lots of the in-game sound effects came out a bit distorted/blown. Sucks I cant have one of those running non-stop to make the final adjustments. Easy to tune the music in though.

    #484 2 years ago

    Guess just realized, since using the amp and cab speaker is plugged into it, the cab eq settings are moot since its only messing with the direct cab output on the board. Am I right to assume this?

    #486 2 years ago
    Quoted from davegauth:

    They do impact it.
    If you are taking the signal out of the Stern using the pinsound then it is tapped between the Stern DSP and the Stern Amp. Using the L+R plug on the pinsound means anything you do to the backbox adjustments in the Stern settings(DSP) gets passed to your RCA signal going into your Fosi. Any changes to the cabinet speaker settings will not pass through as that is tied to the subwoofer output connection of the pinsound plug.

    Ah, gotcha. then nvm my previous assumption.

    #517 2 years ago
    Quoted from gripwhip:

    I have completed by DIY setup for now. I have the Kicker CSC5 5 1/4" backbox speakers, JBL Stage 810 for the cabinet, Fosi BT30D amp, and my reliable Polk PSW10 all hooked up to my Rush LE. A big shout out and thanks to Dave for all the help. It sounds really good! The biggest difference is the Kickers and you can really drive them with the Fosi amp. Hearing things in the game that I missed before. It is also fun to just to do Bluetooth through the amp and play other music on the pinball speakers.
    All of this is not hard. If you can solder even a little bit, you can do this and it will sound way better than the stock setup. Try it. Better equipment makes a big difference. Don't overpay.

    Exactly! Once you do it once, every game afterwards should be easy to repeat. Just a matter of getting over that initial learning curve, and it'll save hundreds (in subsequent games)

    1 week later
    #555 2 years ago
    Quoted from Mattyk:

    Double checked again and this equalizer menu doesn’t show up. All I get is some options to change various settings but none give me this particular equalizer setting with the bars

    You need to enable it as a filter. Forgot the # adjustment, but looking for something that mentions "filter" and change that option first to find the EQ

    1 week later
    #645 1 year ago
    Quoted from northerndude:

    Does this unit combine the sub and front speakers (three sets of wires) into one output???
    I'm thinking I may need something like this for my output to my small cheapo amp
    EDIT: - I am now seeing this comes with the 370$ full set from pinwoofer -
    [quoted image]

    You can either make your own connector from CN5 on that board (think its 5) or get the one from pinsound. Thats what I'm using. This is the pinsound one:

    https://www.pinsound.org/shop/en/64-subwoofer-line-out-stern-spike.html

    #647 1 year ago
    Quoted from northerndude:

    Yeah, that's where i'm confused. That looks easy to grab and use. Would I just use one side of that connector to fo to my little amp with 1 - 3.5mm male to male and not have to use the 'sub" side? or would I be missing out on the lows from the pin if I didnt use it? Because my amp only has 1 input.

    So in my current setup, i just have the L+R from the adapter into the amp. So its just the stereo single input to my amp, and I have the cab+backbox speakers to the amp. Nothing else. I'm getting a great range of lows to highs.

    1 week later
    #687 1 year ago
    Quoted from tilt-master:

    Silly question, how did you mount the Goldwood LE speakers in the premium? The mounting on the premium is different

    Quoted from tilt-master:

    I'm guessing it's already been mentioned in the thread somewhere, an adapter is required, Spacecoast makes one:
    https://pinside.com/pinball/market/shops/1312-space-coast-pinball/05610-spike-2-diy-525-speaker-adapters-stern-

    Oh, think you meant Kenwood LE, not gold wood. The goldwood is the cab speaker, which mounting is the same. But yes, to mount the LE backbox model speakers in premium/pro you need an adapter (or swap the speaker panel). Can either buy one from someone that makes them, or there's 3d files available you can print on your own if you have the equipment

    1 week later
    #728 1 year ago
    Quoted from Pin_Fandango:

    I second this but for Jurassic Park and Iron Maiden?
    Anybody tried either?

    Not the exact parts, but have CSC5s+goldwood 8"+fosi amp on IMDN. AMAZING upgrade, but just need to dial some of the audio settings a bit more as some of the bass is a smidge distorted. Its not much, but need to find time to just get it in just right.

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