So at this point in your quest where are we on price to make a significant upgrade to the sound system? I would think once you exceed the $300 mark the DIY route doesn’t make sense and it would be better to just get the pinwoofer
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So at this point in your quest where are we on price to make a significant upgrade to the sound system? I would think once you exceed the $300 mark the DIY route doesn’t make sense and it would be better to just get the pinwoofer
I’d like to ask a very basic question as I’m not looking to add an amp and really don’t want to play around with stock sound settings since I don’t know what I’m doing.
I do plan to use a Polk external sub for GZ. Would it still make sense to upgrade the cabinet speaker as well? If so, what is a simple plug and play speaker that would be good <$50? Should it be a 4ohm? I assume that is what the stock is but tell me if I’m wrong.
By reading the thread it sounds like the stock cabinet speaker is really an extension of the backbox speakers rather than being used as a subwoofer. Since I’m adding the external sub would it be overkill to upgrade the cab speaker?
Thanks!
Quoted from davegauth:Yep, you are following correctly.
If I was ONLY adding an external subwoofer, then don't bother changing any of the speakers inside the pin. (cabinet or backbox)
The stock cabinet speaker is more like a full range speaker. It doesn't play very low in the first place. By adding a powered subwoofer you will be adding frequencies below what the stock cabinet speaker can currently play accurately. So in essence you are expanding the sound spectrum, and round out the bottom end a bit.
As a side note, make sure you remove the plastic speaker grille/mesh that is under the cabinet speaker. It resonates at medium volumes and will sound like distortion or clipping. By doing this you can get a little more headroom in the volume department.
Thanks! I appreciate the effort you are putting into this thread
Check this power brick out. I bet it would work great for powering an amp to turn on and off with the game without drawing any power from the boards. You simply wire in a usb cable to the side and connect somewhere on one of the boards of the game. You plug the male plug of the brick into the service outlet. When the game turns on the ~5v power going to the usb switches a relay in the power brick to activate the 120v outlets which draw power from the service outlet
I use this for some mods
https://dlidirect.com/products/iot-power-relay
I’d look forward to a full diy list of items needed to provide a nice sound upgrade with a budget up to $200. Links to best backbox speakers, cabinet sub and amp with instructions how to power it up safely.
I’d like to take the plunge on a diy setup but need some hand holding
Quoted from davegauth:Definitely doable, and not difficult - what game is it going on? Are you comfortable with everything you've seen thus far in the post. Amps, speaker adapters, etc?
It’s going on GZ. I’m very comfortable thus far. I have no issues with connectors on boards or soldering etc. The type of amp and it’s connection to power is what I’m mostly concerned with.
I’m also now too sure regarding when it’s appropriate for 4ohm or 8ohm speakers and I don’t know if the game comes stock at 4 or 8. I hear conflicting things regarding safe operation when you have 4 ohm speakers for example and the game is set at 8 ohms. I just don’t want to blow anything up.
Quoted from gripwhip:I have completed by DIY setup for now. I have the Kicker CSC5 5 1/4" backbox speakers, JBL Stage 810 for the cabinet, Fosi BT30D amp, and my reliable Polk PSW10 all hooked up to my Rush LE. A big shout out and thanks to Dave for all the help. It sounds really good! The biggest difference is the Kickers and you can really drive them with the Fosi amp. Hearing things in the game that I missed before. It is also fun to just to do Bluetooth through the amp and play other music on the pinball speakers.
All of this is not hard. If you can solder even a little bit, you can do this and it will sound way better than the stock setup. Try it. Better equipment makes a big difference. Don't overpay.
Once you get this setup dialed in can you please post a pic of your sound settings in the game menu? Also how you have your amp knobs set?
I don’t have my game yet but circled is where the power switch is I believe. Use a multimeter and find the side that has no power while game is off.
Use 14 gauge black and white wire and connect one end of the wires to a new female plug and connect the other ends into new female spade connectors along with the existing wires coming out of the switch.
Basically you will have the games wires and the new female plug wires in new female spade connectors that plug into the switch terminals. When game turns on the new female plug will have power. Use this plug to connect the amp.
E391C44F-93BE-42FE-811A-1D0720E01521 (resized).jpegQuoted from RobF:Wiring directly to the switch is pre-fuse and pre-filter. I suggest wiring directly to the screw terminals on the game PSU where I have the arrow pointing.
EDIT: I might be wrong about the fuse. That could be just for the accessory plug. I will have to double check that. Either way, still think it's safer and cleaner to wire to screw posts behind a metal cover.
Thanks for sharing that option. I never thought to do that. I figured that by wiring directly to the switch that it’s the same power as a wall outlet. Plus it’s easier for mods that have a male plug. I’ve always been hesitant to draw power from the boards. But it’s good to know about tapping at the power supply. As long as it’s not stealing power from somewhere else it a great solution
Quoted from NPO:Main menu --> Utilities --> Vol --> hit the right arrow until the equalizer comes up as the screenshot you provided.
Double checked again and this equalizer menu doesn’t show up. All I get is some options to change various settings but none give me this particular equalizer setting with the bars
Quoted from Good-Times:It's the filter option in Volume settings (under utilities). The one which defaults to "High/Low shelf". The options for that menu item are None, High/Low Shelf, or 10-band EQ.
Sweet thanks!
Quoted from davegauth:Random question...
Would you peeps like me to produce videos?
It stinks I can't just upload short clips to pinside. I'm a bit resistant to doing a YouTube channel, and dealing with editing etc.
Just wondering, open to feedbck.
Videos? Hell Yea!!
For those that upgraded your speakers and added an amp, are you getting any rattles or vibrations from the game that weren’t present before?
Quoted from John_I:I've been looking for ways to power control a mod or amplifier to turn on when the power switch to the game is turned on. I was going to DIY a relay circuit myself that switches on a/c power when it detects the game's 12v power coming on. I found a device that can be had for about $30 that does it nice and clean and I don't have to build it myself!!
Connect the terminal on the side to 12v power from the game and the a/c outlets will turn on and off with the game power...[quoted image]
Yep this relay works great. I use it for mods on a few machines. Perfect for the mini amp to plug in to as well as spotlights or other mods you want to keep on all the time.
So I’ve done the fosi amp, 5.25” kickers and JBL sub on my GZ. Here’s my take. My guess is this setup sounds much like a pin woofer, probably better given the higher quality speakers. I’ve never owned pin woofer so take my statement for what it’s worth.
Yes my sound quality is a bit better than stick and I can feel the bass in my fingers while I play. I like that. It’s like a shaker on steroids. It’s also nice not to have a large Polk sub under the game. But the biggest drawback is you can only make it thump so much before you start getting rattles from the machine. More than just the glass, which is easily fixed with tape. This makes me nervous as I’d hate to create a cracked solder or mess up a node board. Maybe I’m overreacting.
If I had to do over I would continue with just adding the external sub. Crank it as loud as you want and zero rattles.
Maybe my equalizer settings are off with my current setup. I duplicated what I saw earlier in the thread and I don’t know enough about these settings to play around to optimize the sound. I’m running 8ohms everywhere and zero fade
Quoted from Sandman33:I put a Pinwoofer kit in my Deadpool and am very satisfied with the results. Dan at pinwoofer answered my phone calls and helped me with very easy questions during installation. Things most dedicated pinballers would already know but I did not. Installation was not too hard and the results are amazing.
Wrong thread bro
For anyone interested, here is how I power my external amp. Just buy some piggy back connectors and cut off the power plug of the amp and crimp on.
Unplug the white and black connectors on the power switch on the pin, plug in the piggy back connectors from the amp and reconnect the pins connectors. Now amp turns on and off with the game.
***unplug your game first before making these connections
Quoted from Pinash:I did the same. Which connectors did you order? I didn’t love the ones I got.
No idea on the brand. Probably something cheap I picked up on Amazon
On Jaws, what are your thoughts on using upgraded 4” kickers and the 8” skar midrange? Not planning on an amp or external sub. Will I be missing too much of the lows?
Quoted from kciaccio:This will be interesting for Spike users.
200 watts.[quoted image]
Not sure if there is a need when you can get an $80 Fosi amp
Quoted from kciaccio:I like plug and play and equalizers.
Everything is plug and play. Take the fosi amp cord, cut the head off and put on two piggy back female/male terminals. Then install those on the terminals of the game’s power switch and reinstall the game’s Female connectors onto the male piggybacks of the new terminals you attached to the fosi amp. Now just run your speaker wires.
This is a safer install than anything you plug into your games boards
Quoted from Big_G:You could also just plug the Fosi into the back box outlet. Can’t get more plug and play than that. It would always be powered on, but I unplug my Rush pin after every use. I lost some electronics in a storm and don’t want to risk it.
I also like the amp close to the coin door for easy to reach adjustments.
That’s why I snipped off the head and used piggyback connectors to attach it into the switch. Turns on and off with the game. Takes only a few minutes to do and no chance of blowing up your board
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