Quoted from db666:I've been following this thread with interest and thinking about swapping the speakers in GZ LE for the Kicker 5.25. However I'm unsure regarding the mounting. Is it necessary to 3D print something to mount them on or is there another way? ( I don't have a 3D printer). Thanks.
Check out speakerlightkits.com - if you get a light kit the mounts are $25. I love the kight kits in mine anyway, i'll do that while I replace my speakers
Quoted from db666:I've been following this thread with interest and thinking about swapping the speakers in GZ LE for the Kicker 5.25. However I'm unsure regarding the mounting. Is it necessary to 3D print something to mount them on or is there another way? ( I don't have a 3D printer). Thanks.
Kickers are unique in that they can be flush mounted. If you own a dremmel and a drill you can mount them to the stock speaker plates.
The DIY route - Cut off the 2 studs that held the 4" stock speakers in. Position the Kicker on the plate and center right up. Then mark the mounting holes. Drill the holes, pickup some #10 bolts and put them through the new drilled holes, then run a nylock nuts down each one. You just added 4 new mounting studs for the 5.25" pattern. Bolt on the new speakers and done...
Or you can buy new plates, or buy some 3D printed adapters that are ready to go.
Quoted from northerndude:Check out speakerlightkits.com - if you get a light kit the mounts are $25. I love the kight kits in mine anyway, i'll do that while I replace my speakers
With an LE, does one still need the adapter plates from speaker light kits? (I have not checked how standard/nonstandard the stock LE speakers are)
EDIT: Oops, saw this was already answered. Note to self - read all the messages before posting a reply
Quoted from db666:I've been following this thread with interest and thinking about swapping the speakers in GZ LE for the Kicker 5.25. However I'm unsure regarding the mounting. Is it necessary to 3D print something to mount them on or is there another way? ( I don't have a 3D printer). Thanks.
I sell adapters on my Pinside store, but to tell the truth, I like having the LE style speaker lights in my games. When you buy those from speakerlightkits.com you can get the real metal plates just like the LEs come with for $25 for the pair instead of $50. So the whole deal with the type 13 lights and killer plates is $100 total. Then you can add in the colored rings to add to the effect.
https://www.speakerlightkits.com/5.25-SPIKE-2-Speaker-Plates.html
Quoted from db666:I've been following this thread with interest and thinking about swapping the speakers in GZ LE for the Kicker 5.25. However I'm unsure regarding the mounting. Is it necessary to 3D print something to mount them on or is there another way? ( I don't have a 3D printer). Thanks.
You can get the LE speaker panels which makes mounting a breeze, just the cost (and shipping to Oz is up there!).
https://www.pinballlife.com/stern-spike-2-speaker-plate-for-525-drivers.html
Quoted from davegauth:Finished the mount for the Fosi amplifier. I used purple, because I think it will end up on Deadpool or Stranger Things eventually.
I may try out a Nobsound amp as well. Then I'll report back on all 3 amps with pro's and cons.[quoted image][quoted image]
I think I mentioned this somewhere before, but I ended up picking up a BLAUPUNKT AMP1604.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07Q28CNSN/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s01
Going through all the amp tests that I could find on cheap amps, this one stood out as fairly decent (the reviews of the others were not so kind). At $66 it's cheaper than the FOSI and should have much cleaner output. It's certainly overkill and much bigger physically. It has several nice built in features; speaker and line level input, adjustable low, and high pass filters with individual gain adjustments. The only thing I wished it had was a dedicated low level sub output passthrough, but it's easy enough to put a splitter in. I don't have it fully wired in yet, so can give any impressions. If you are considering putting a few more bucks in an amp comparison, you may want to give this one a good look.
Quoted from RobF:I think I mentioned this somewhere before, but I ended up picking up a BLAUPUNKT AMP1604.
amazon.com link »
Going through all the amp tests that I could find on cheap amps, this one stood out as fairly decent (the reviews of the others were not so kind). At $66 it's cheaper than the FOSI and should have much cleaner output. It's certainly overkill and much bigger physically. It has several nice built in features; speaker and line level input, adjustable low, and high pass filters with individual gain adjustments. The only thing I wished it had was a dedicated low level sub output passthrough, but it's easy enough to put a splitter in. I don't have it fully wired in yet, so can give any impressions. If you are considering putting a few more bucks in an amp comparison, you may want to give this one a good look.
Could I bother you to please mock up a rudimentary schematic on your wiring when you get to it?
Quoted from northerndude:Could I bother you to please mock up a rudimentary schematic on your wiring when you get to it?
Surely! I am testing first in my IMDN, so will use my own CN5 adapter. But if I like how it turns out, will likely add to Spike1 and SAM games as well.
Quoted from northerndude:Why exactly do you want this on the outside of the pin instead of in the cabinet?
Why exactly would you want it inside the cabinet? It's not rhetorical, it's a legit question.
Sure you can tuck it away inside the cabinet. Nothing wrong with that. I understand it comes down to personal taste and reasons. But you will miss out on a ton of features that make this awesome if you tuck everything inside. So let's see if I can give some good reasons to mount it outside rather than inside.
People pay good money for adapters, plates, buttons etc. just to be able to control their pins volume via external controls. You can save that money by mounting these mini amps up front like I did. Now you get full volume control outside the machine. As a bonus you also get easy access to basic adjustments like sub woofer volume etc. A big plus.
You also get full control of the Bluetooth which is a HUGE killer feature. You will need access to the amp to be able to toggle the input(on some amps) and have access to the volume without having to dig around the inside of the pin.
By putting the amp inside you also lose the ability to turn the amp on and off. Sure you can wire it to one of the boards to draw power from. It does make sense on a high level to just have 1 button whole system power turn on. I thought this way at first too. Until I realized I'd rather have use of the killer Bluetooth feature without also turning on the pin. After some thought I also realized that not many people are comfortable tapping power off the Spike boards directly, there is just an element of risk there that people feel uneasy about taking. Having a completely separated system removes that risk, and the associated roadblock to doing this DIY. Not to mention it will help when it comes time to sell the pin too.
So why would you want to mount everything inside again?
Literally thinking outside the box, I have been playing around with different options for both Spike1&2 systems I have to play with.
These speakers were salvaged from a Pioneer plasma (50" I think) and they sound awesome.
I also put a generic 8" sub with adapter in the base of the cabinet.
Although this is on a GB it sounds so much better than I expected and everyone that has played it first comments on the sound before they notice the speakers.
They screw on the back of the back box so are essentially invisible mounts and I think they frame the back box nicely.
Have fun.
spike1_speakers (resized).jpgQuoted from davegauth:Why exactly would you want it inside the cabinet? It's not rhetorical, it's a legit question.
Sure you can tuck it away inside the cabinet. Nothing wrong with that. I understand it comes down to personal taste and reasons. But you will miss out on a ton of features that make this awesome if you tuck everything inside. So let's see if I can give some good reasons to mount it outside rather than inside.
People pay good money for adapters, plates, buttons etc. just to be able to control their pins volume via external controls. You can save that money and by mounting these mini amps up front like like I did. Now you get full volume control outside the machine. As a bonus you also get easy access to basic adjustments like sub woofer volume etc. A big plus.
You also get full control of the Bluetooth which is a HUGE killer feature. You will need access to the amp to be able to toggle the input(on some amps) and have access to the volume without having to dig around the inside of the pin.
By putting the amp inside you also lose the ability to turn the amp on and off. Sure you can wire it to one of the boards to draw power from. It does make sense on a high level to just have 1 button whole system power turn on. I thought this way at first too. Until I realized I'd rather have use of the killer Bluetooth feature without also turning on the pin. After some thought I also realized that not many people are comfortable tapping power off the Spike boards directly, there is just an element of risk there that people feel uneasy about taking. Having a completly separated system removes that risk, and the associated roadblock to doing this DIY. Not to mention it will help when it comes time to sell the pin too.
So why would you want to mount everything inside again?
I was totally curious and not in attack mode man.
Aesthetically - I wouldn't like it outside.
I wouldn't want or need those features if the pin wasn't on.
Would not want to drill into outside of cabinet for mounting reasons.
I have a stereo already
I wouldn't wire into the board - just use an ac - 12v dc adapter and plug into 110v plug - would come on with the pin switch
I would get it all set to the settings I would want and just leave it right down to the door volume adjustment
I would hope I had it dialed into sweet ass sound!
Quoted from davegauth:Why exactly would you want it inside the cabinet?
1. Because I don't like the looks of the amp hanging out in front of my game. That's my only criticism of your handiwork. Also the way I play, I'd hit those knobs all night long.
2. I move my machines around with a pinball cart and the outside mounting would get in the way.
I think the real question was regarding the power brick. I there any reason why you wouldn't just leave that in the cabinet even if you hang the amp outside.
Quoted from TommyMc:Anyone interested there is a Klipsch 12” sub woofer on Amazon for 50% off right now
Thanks for the note, but the seller details does not fill with confidence.
Quoted from Black_Knight:1. Because I don't like the looks of the amp hanging out in front of my game. That's my only criticism of your handiwork. Also the way I play, I'd hit those knobs all night long.
2. I move my machines around with a pinball cart and the outside mounting would get in the way.
I think the real question was regarding the power brick. I there any reason why you wouldn't just leave that in the cabinet even if you hang the amp outside.
Yes, it is a matter of personal taste, but I agree with all of these reasons. I would want it all internal for esthetic reasons and my cart wouldn't fit under there either.
Quoted from northerndude:I was totally curious and not in attack mode man.
Aesthetically - I wouldn't like it outside.
I wouldn't want or need those features if the pin wasn't on.
Would not want to drill into outside of cabinet for mounting reasons.
I have a stereo already
I wouldn't wire into the board - just use an ac - 12v dc adapter and plug into 110v plug - would come on with the pin switch
I would get it all set to the settings I would want and just leave it right down to the door volume adjustment
I would hope I had it dialed into sweet ass sound!
I'm not attacking or being mean. nor do I think you were. It was legitimate questions from both sides, My original reasons for placing everything inside ended up getting turned inside out for some reasons I did not expect would even be a thing..
The 110v inside the cabinet is a standalone, always on, power source. The amp would always remain on in that case. There are some interesting ways around this a couple pages ago - it can be done.
I haven't hit them, they seem out of the way for me. I did have my GF come over and turn the volume down while I was playing and on my way to only my 2nd Billion game on GZ and I drained with the distraction. uhhhgggg
Could always make a mount to go just inside the coin door, where the coin box is. Maybe one that angles up so you can read it and make adjustments easier.
Good thought on putting the brick inside. I'll need to look at it. It maybe difficult getting to the back hole though as the lead wire may not be long enough.
@Johny_I
Cart may not work. That is a good reason to add to the list. What type of cart and how wide is the platform?
Quoted from Kerry_Richard:davegauth Thank You and others here for all your efforts and input on this awesome thread... it's much appreciated!
I know this topic is subject to taste, like fine wine is to the palate of individual mouths.
Thanks again!
Kerry
Quoted from davegauth:By using good quality speaker replacements you are also one step closer to adding amplification to take it all to the next level should you choose to.
Hope this helps a bit.
Dave, there is mention of it but not a ton of discussion about the engineering relationship of speaker and cabinet.
Obviously, a high-quality sound system never has two 4-5" speakers in a cab the size of a back box.
I guess it would be hard to find a satellite speaker that would fit, but what do you think of this?
Take R-Max foam board and put it where the speaker assembly and the transom glass meet, then put another piece between the speakers from that horizontal piece to the bottom of back box in an effort to keep some sound from bouncing around the back box and try to divide the speaker outputs.
A kind of tacky attempt at creating a 'speaker cabinet' inside the back box, but foam board is cheap! easy to try.
Your speaker fights were in a box. This would be a little closer to that.
Do you think this would be helpful? Thanks.
Quoted from davegauth:Why exactly would you want it inside the cabinet? It's not rhetorical, it's a legit question.
Sure you can tuck it away inside the cabinet. Nothing wrong with that. I understand it comes down to personal taste and reasons. But you will miss out on a ton of features that make this awesome if you tuck everything inside. So let's see if I can give some good reasons to mount it outside rather than inside.
People pay good money for adapters, plates, buttons etc. just to be able to control their pins volume via external controls. You can save that money and by mounting these mini amps up front like like I did. Now you get full volume control outside the machine. As a bonus you also get easy access to basic adjustments like sub woofer volume etc. A big plus.
You also get full control of the Bluetooth which is a HUGE killer feature. You will need access to the amp to be able to toggle the input(on some amps) and have access to the volume without having to dig around the inside of the pin.
By putting the amp inside you also lose the ability to turn the amp on and off. Sure you can wire it to one of the boards to draw power from. It does make sense on a high level to just have 1 button whole system power turn on. I thought this way at first too. Until I realized I'd rather have use of the killer Bluetooth feature without also turning on the pin. After some thought I also realized that not many people are comfortable tapping power off the Spike boards directly, there is just an element of risk there that people feel uneasy about taking. Having a completly separated system removes that risk, and the associated roadblock to doing this DIY. Not to mention it will help when it comes time to sell the pin too.
So why would you want to mount everything inside again?
bluetooth is sketch on that chinese stuff if it works at all . its hard to pair the head phones and if you do it will be really laggy and the sounds will not be cinched up with the ball . you should try it .
Quoted from barroncaliber:bluetooth is sketch on that chinese stuff if it works at all . its hard to pair the head phones and if you do it will be really laggy and the sounds will not be cinched up with the ball . you should try it .
The Bluetooth would be used with the pin off and in a sort of “jukebox” mode. Using the pin speakers and woofer to play any music he likes.
Quoted from SlapDrain:The Bluetooth would be used with the pin off and in a sort of “jukebox” mode. Using the pin speakers and woofer to play any music he likes.
Yep, this.
Bluetooth is only for input into the amplifier - not an output to headphones.
Quoted from DavidNOLA:Dave, there is mention of it but not a ton of discussion about the engineering relationship of speaker and cabinet.
Obviously, a high-quality sound system never has two 4-5" speakers in a cab the size of a back box.
I guess it would be hard to find a satellite speaker that would fit, but what do you think of this?
Take R-Max foam board and put it where the speaker assembly and the transom glass meet, then put another piece between the speakers from that horizontal piece to the bottom of back box in an effort to keep some sound from bouncing around the back box and try to divide the speaker outputs.
A kind of tacky attempt at creating a 'speaker cabinet' inside the back box, but foam board is cheap! easy to try.
Your speaker fights were in a box. This would be a little closer to that.
Do you think this would be helpful? Thanks.
Great question. The cabinet and backbox are less than ideal enclosures. We can still get good and worth while results working with what we have. I did look at some JBL studio monitors and was thinking it would be pretty cool if they could shoehorn into the backbox somehow. But man that would be allot of work. Super cool though..
But back to working with what we have. Without a calibration microphone, it will be difficult to really build the correct size enclosure for the chosen speaker set. That's kind of allot of work too.
There are some things we can tighten up a bit.
The backbox is quite large for those drivers in general, and it's just full of air leaks. Another issue, just as important, is that it's a single open enclosure that 2 drivers, running different signals are sharing airspace in. The cabinet speaker, which runs a different third signal, also shares airspace with the back box too due to the big cable openings between them. This sharing of space means as different signals play from each speaker different pressure waves are created behind the speakers. Leading to distortion and cancellation. So putting them in their own airspace would produce some improvement. For the smaller backbox speakers figuring out the exact volume of a box etc. will not be as important as it would be for a sub woofer. So just giving them their own airspace would be a plus. I have been thinking about a solution for a while now, something I did earlier was meant to be the foundation for it. I'm just not there yet, as I got distracted by shiny things.
There is nothing wrong with your thoughts on sectioning off the speakers with foam board. It should work pretty well. You may have to move the power supply up or just enclose that portion too. The only other thing I'd think about is try to close off the bottom area because of the big holes that go down into the cabinet.
For the cabinet - There are a few considerations depending on what you want to do with the speaker. Let's say you want to run a subwoofer in there. (80-160hrtz ish and below) there is a big airspace available, which is nice for a sub. However; it's full of air leaks and holes - hardly the best scenario. But not exactly bad either. I've gotten some great real word results with it. I have a friend coming over to check out what I'm up to - and I'm pretty sure he'll poop himself when he hears it. We can enclose the subwoofer inside the cabinet, this wouldn't be too hard to do. But now we need to design an enclosure with the correct internal volume. If we want to port it, then that is a big can of worms - more measurements, more work, it's all speaker specific too. And if we are doing all of this without using a calibration microphone to truly measure the results then we may just be chasing our tail. Did we just go to far with all of this, it is a pin Afterall? @Good_Times took a bit of a different approach - he looked at what types/specs of subwoofers were available that would operate better in a free air enclosure and went that route to great results as well. One of the advantages of running a sub woofer in this location is there will be minimal frequency overlap with the backbox speakers and very little alignment issues that may create distortion. You also get that real nice tactile feedback, like a shaker on roids.
I guess in summary - I agree with you that the enclosure situation stinks. But it's not terrible either, and should not stop anyone from making some of the mods listed here. With real world testing, there is still significant benefit to make it worthwhile. It's the 80/20 rule. 80% of the results can be had for 20% of the effort and expense. The last 20% will take 80% of the budget and effort to achieve. Doesn't mean we can't chip away at them though, keep exploring the rat hole, find solutions and where the reward vs effort make sense.
If I can get my hands on a Rush LE, I'll break that rule and do a ton of things that defy all common sense.... 3 Subwoofers, backbox enclosure, light show topper.....
Quoted from centre-drain:Literally thinking outside the box, I have been playing around with different options for both Spike1&2 systems I have to play with.
These speakers were salvaged from a Pioneer plasma (50" I think) and they sound awesome.
I also put a generic 8" sub with adapter in the base of the cabinet.
Although this is on a GB it sounds so much better than I expected and everyone that has played it first comments on the sound before they notice the speakers.
They screw on the back of the back box so are essentially invisible mounts and I think they frame the back box nicely.
Have fun.
[quoted image]
I'm not sure I see the speaker in the picture.. Is it a long array mounted on the side of the backbox? Are there two of them for each side? Post a couple more pics if you can - it's an interesting option that hasn't been posted yet.
Quoted from davegauth:What type of cart and how wide is the platform?
I have an odd cart that is a modified ATV lift that just barely fits under the front lip of a Stern pin. Maybe a half inch of clearance!
I've been very pleased with this amp:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08CJZGT6H/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title
I have 6 of them on my pins (5 Spike2 and 1 SAM)
I am also using mid-high end speakers such as Focal RCX-130, JLAudio C2-525X and Alpine 4" on my SAM. I am using Klipsch R-12SW subs on all of my pins and wow, Spike2 is hands down a great platform for external speaker upgrade/amplification. My Led Zeppelin can seriously rock the house.
Quoted from davegauth:I'm not sure I see the speaker in the picture.. Is it a long array mounted on the side of the backbox? Are there two of them for each side? Post a couple more pics if you can - it's an interesting option that hasn't been posted yet.
Yes one each side. They run the entire height of the BB. Wire directly into the D-class amp on the Spike 1or2 CPU as they are 8ohm.
Examples on test spike1 & spike2 cabs, I have been using for "testing" for other purposes.
PXL_20220309_091127479 (resized).jpgPXL_20220309_091013111 (resized).jpgPXL_20220309_091002217 (resized).jpgPXL_20220309_091147494 (resized).jpgPXL_20220309_091202391 (resized).jpgQuoted from davegauth:Why exactly would you want it inside the cabinet? It's not rhetorical, it's a legit question.
Sure you can tuck it away inside the cabinet. Nothing wrong with that. I understand it comes down to personal taste and reasons. But you will miss out on a ton of features that make this awesome if you tuck everything inside. So let's see if I can give some good reasons to mount it outside rather than inside.
People pay good money for adapters, plates, buttons etc. just to be able to control their pins volume via external controls. You can save that money by mounting these mini amps up front like I did. Now you get full volume control outside the machine. As a bonus you also get easy access to basic adjustments like sub woofer volume etc. A big plus.
You also get full control of the Bluetooth which is a HUGE killer feature. You will need access to the amp to be able to toggle the input(on some amps) and have access to the volume without having to dig around the inside of the pin.
By putting the amp inside you also lose the ability to turn the amp on and off. Sure you can wire it to one of the boards to draw power from. It does make sense on a high level to just have 1 button whole system power turn on. I thought this way at first too. Until I realized I'd rather have use of the killer Bluetooth feature without also turning on the pin. After some thought I also realized that not many people are comfortable tapping power off the Spike boards directly, there is just an element of risk there that people feel uneasy about taking. Having a completely separated system removes that risk, and the associated roadblock to doing this DIY. Not to mention it will help when it comes time to sell the pin too.
So why would you want to mount everything inside again?
Way cleaner to have it all tucked away inside. Sound is pretty much set it and forget it.
Tapping into the electrical post switch is really easy, so it makes no sense to use the service plug....
Either way, cool stuff!
Dumb question time…
When putting 5 1/4” speakers in plates that were originally designed for 4” speakers I’m assuming the cutout (hole) is only 4” (or less)? Does this pose any issues with quality or is it a non issue? I understand how to get them mounted just curious if the metal “protrudes” into the path of the speaker at all and whether that’s less than ideal.
I don’t have my machine or a Stern to visualize how it all looks, but my brain is having a tough time figuring out how this would work/look.
Thanks again for all of the info on this thread.
Quoted from Pugster:Dumb question time…
When putting 5 1/4” speakers in plates that were originally designed for 4” speakers I’m assuming the cutout (hole) is only 4” (or less)? Does this pose any issues with quality or is it a non issue? I understand how to get them mounted just curious if the metal “protrudes” into the path of the speaker at all and whether that’s less than ideal.
I don’t have my machine or a Stern to visualize how it all looks, but my brain is having a tough time figuring out how this would work/look.
Thanks again for all of the info on this thread.
If you are talking about Spike 2 pins, you actually remove the 4" plate and install the 5-1/4" plate in its place. It is pretty easy. Involves removing 4 nuts and 2 (#1) phillps screws.
Quoted from Pugster:Dumb question time…
When putting 5 1/4” speakers in plates that were originally designed for 4” speakers I’m assuming the cutout (hole) is only 4” (or less)? Does this pose any issues with quality or is it a non issue? I understand how to get them mounted just curious if the metal “protrudes” into the path of the speaker at all and whether that’s less than ideal.
I don’t have my machine or a Stern to visualize how it all looks, but my brain is having a tough time figuring out how this would work/look.
Thanks again for all of the info on this thread.
Ideal - no, but works just fine. The hole is kinda big for the 4", so it's not bad for the 5.25". ( go back to page 2 or 3 there is a picture of what the cutout looks like) The cone area is about the size as the cutout. You could get a hole saw and open it up, or dremmel it out. But don't feel it's necessary or a priority as far as sound quality goes.
Quoted from Tranquilize:Way cleaner to have it all tucked away inside. Sound is pretty much set it and forget it.
Tapping into the electrical post switch is really easy, so it makes no sense to use the service plug....
Either way, cool stuff!
Just want to make sure I understand(and some who maybe reading this) what you are thinking for switched power connection.
What you are suggesting is simply attach/tap/solder whatever power supply being used for the amp directly to the switch terminals(or wires) between the switch and Sterns internal power supply.
As an example - If running a power brick type supply for an amp. The just snip off the plug, and solder the wires to the out side of the switch terminals in the back box. (or tap the wires or whatever type connection) Keeping the power supply to the amp complelty standalone.
Do I have this right?
More pro's and cons please... Not attacking, real question here.
There are some real good pro's and cons to placing an amp internal versus external. Anymore thoughts? I'd like to be able to summarize the options when it comes time to do a writeup.
It'll also give an idea of what are the best features of both methods and maybe lead to a combined solution.
BTW - Set and forget, in my opinion is not an option. When you are built like Arnold you tend to flex more often. I'm all over the place with my volume level, because the power is there. Set and forget approach would drive me bananas.
Working on upgrading the audio on my homebrew game's WPC cab. Similar setup to what you guys are running: custom speaker panel for 6.5" speakers, 6.5" sub in the cabinet, Lepai LP-168HA amplifier.
Replaced some Pyle Blue 3-Ways with Rockford Fosgate Punch 2-ways. There was no comparison with the A/B test. The Pyles are muddy and have a completely different frequency response curve. The RF's are very clear and you can hear how much detail was being lost by the Pyles.
A couple issues I need to resolve with the RFs:
-The treble on them is razor sharp and the midrange is lacking. Thinking of adding a 7-band EQ before the amp, not sure how else to fix this.
-The foam surround on the RF's is wider than the Pyles, so I need to add 1/4" spacer ring to rear mount them. Haven't found the right size yet. Maybe use dense rubber weatherstripping?
Check this power brick out. I bet it would work great for powering an amp to turn on and off with the game without drawing any power from the boards. You simply wire in a usb cable to the side and connect somewhere on one of the boards of the game. You plug the male plug of the brick into the service outlet. When the game turns on the ~5v power going to the usb switches a relay in the power brick to activate the 120v outlets which draw power from the service outlet
I use this for some mods
https://dlidirect.com/products/iot-power-relay
Quoted from davegauth:The 110v inside the cabinet is a standalone, always on, power source. The amp would always remain on in that case. There are some interesting ways around this a couple pages ago - it can be done.
Easiest is to wire the amp's DC power supply directly to the cabinet power supply AC input. This is after the cabinet switch and will only provide power when the game is switched on.
Quoted from davegauth:Just want to make sure I understand(and some who maybe reading this) what you are thinking for switched power connection.
What you are suggesting is simply attach/tap/solder whatever power supply being used for the amp directly to the switch terminals(or wires) between the switch and Sterns internal power supply.
As an example - If running a power brick type supply for an amp. The just snip off the plug, and solder the wires to the out side of the switch terminals in the back box. (or tap the wires or whatever type connection) Keeping the power supply to the amp complelty standalone.
Do I have this right?
I've only done this in w/b machines to add a separate 12v source via adapter for mods. The process would be similar. I'd open up the power supply and find the positive and negative wires just after the switch. These should be 120v. Test with your meter. Splice your adapter wires how you see fit and make it all look pretty.
Quoted from davegauth:Just want to make sure I understand(and some who maybe reading this) what you are thinking for switched power connection.
What you are suggesting is simply attach/tap/solder whatever power supply being used for the amp directly to the switch terminals(or wires) between the switch and Sterns internal power supply.
As an example - If running a power brick type supply for an amp. The just snip off the plug, and solder the wires to the out side of the switch terminals in the back box. (or tap the wires or whatever type connection) Keeping the power supply to the amp complelty standalone.
Do I have this right?
Underneath the metal shield that goes over the lower portion of the Stern main power supply there are input and outputs on a terminal strip. All you would have to do is put lugs on your power supply wires and connect them directly to the input terminals on the power supply (right side on the picture below). That way your power supply will come on whenever the game is switched on. You can remove that cover with three nuts.
61E5d+NI5KL._SL1200_ (resized).jpgHello everyone!
The amplifier and power solution are the two most challenging aspects and appear to present the most confusion among the community. In response to potential appetite for a reliable and simple solution, PinWoofer has developed a "Do-It-Yourself" amplifier for Stern Spike / Spike-2 and Late Jersey Jack platforms.
Some may not regard this as being purely "DIY", however, this offering is designed to be of benefit to those in the community who want an enabler for the remainder of their pinball audio project. This product is not for everyone, but it is for those who have the desire, knowledge of tool usage / wiring and the ability to be innovative as they work on their machine using the DIY amp as a foundation.
The PinWoofer DIY amplifier is an organic fit for these platforms, utilizing the factory speaker wires and comes with our tried-and-true power solution. You can stop there or continue to accessorize adding speakers, mounts and other interesting components to help you realize your goals. This amp is a huge step-up compared to stock and will produce results close to our flagship amplifiers. One drawback is that the controls are located in the backbox so adjustment must take place with the backglass removed; the thinking is to finalize adjustments and for the most part leave the amplifier controls static.
Please visit our website and view the product description at the below link if you have an interest in knowing more:
https://pinwoofer.com/accessories/diy/
Thank you for your time and have a great day!
DIY (resized).jpgQuoted from PinTweeter:Hello everyone!
The amplifier and power solution are the two most challenging aspects and appear to present the most confusion among the community. In response to potential appetite for a reliable and simple solution, PinWoofer has developed a "Do-It-Yourself" amplifier for Stern Spike / Spike-2 and Late Jersey Jack platforms.
Some may not regard this as being purely "DIY", however, this offering is designed to be of benefit to those in the community who want an enabler for the remainder of their pinball audio project. This product is not for everyone, but it is for those who have the desire, knowledge of tool usage / wiring and the ability to be innovative as they work on their machine using the DIY amp as a foundation.
The PinWoofer DIY amplifier is an organic fit for these platforms, utilizing the factory speaker wires and comes with our tried-and-true power solution. You can stop there or continue to accessorize adding speakers, mounts and other interesting components to help you realize your goals. This amp is a huge step-up compared to stock and will produce results close to our flagship amplifiers. One drawback is that the controls are located in the backbox so adjustment must take place with the backglass removed; the thinking is to finalize adjustments and for the most part leave the amplifier controls static.
Please visit our website and view the product description at the below link if you have an interest in knowing more:
https://pinwoofer.com/accessories/diy/
Thank you for your time and have a great day![quoted image]
Why don't you knock 'er down to the $69.99 max it should be...
Quoted from PinTweeter:Hello everyone!
The amplifier and power solution are the two most challenging aspects and appear to present the most confusion among the community. In response to potential appetite for a reliable and simple solution, PinWoofer has developed a "Do-It-Yourself" amplifier for Stern Spike / Spike-2 and Late Jersey Jack platforms.
Some may not regard this as being purely "DIY", however, this offering is designed to be of benefit to those in the community who want an enabler for the remainder of their pinball audio project. This product is not for everyone, but it is for those who have the desire, knowledge of tool usage / wiring and the ability to be innovative as they work on their machine using the DIY amp as a foundation.
The PinWoofer DIY amplifier is an organic fit for these platforms, utilizing the factory speaker wires and comes with our tried-and-true power solution. You can stop there or continue to accessorize adding speakers, mounts and other interesting components to help you realize your goals. This amp is a huge step-up compared to stock and will produce results close to our flagship amplifiers. One drawback is that the controls are located in the backbox so adjustment must take place with the backglass removed; the thinking is to finalize adjustments and for the most part leave the amplifier controls static.
Please visit our website and view the product description at the below link if you have an interest in knowing more:
https://pinwoofer.com/accessories/diy/
Thank you for your time and have a great day![quoted image]
I cant wait to try it,everything You sold me so far has exceeded my expectations.
Quoted from northerndude:Why don't you knock 'er down to the $69.99 max it should be...
$200 for an amp and cables to drive $20 Pyle speakers. Makes sense.
Quoted from Jamesays:I cant wait to try it,everything You sold me so far has exceeded my expectations.
guess ill bite too . already put pyles in so just need the amp and woofer .
Please stop.
VENDORS STOP POSTING in this thread. I've asked several times now. After vendors bullying other pinside members and really being insecure, it's not helping your own image. It's not about you. So please STOP.
Everyone else, please just continue the thread and ignore the trolls. don't take the bait, so we can get back to our great thread.
I am anxiously awaiting my Godzilla Pro. I have a pair of these lying around. Also picked up the infamous Polk PSW10 for the low end. Has anyone swapped to these cheapy Pioneers and seen a bit of an improvement? My thought is anything is better then stock Stern 4”.
Pioneer 4" Speakers - 4-Inch, 150 Watt, Dual Cone 2-Way Speakers, Set of 2, Model: TS-F1034R https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00G9T0RJU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_i_STWQX6HC1WK8B71D9HE4
Quoted from PinTweeter:Hello everyone!
The amplifier and power solution are the two most challenging aspects and appear to present the most confusion among the community. In response to potential appetite for a reliable and simple solution, PinWoofer has developed a "Do-It-Yourself" amplifier for Stern Spike / Spike-2 and Late Jersey Jack platforms.
Some may not regard this as being purely "DIY", however, this offering is designed to be of benefit to those in the community who want an enabler for the remainder of their pinball audio project. This product is not for everyone, but it is for those who have the desire, knowledge of tool usage / wiring and the ability to be innovative as they work on their machine using the DIY amp as a foundation.
The PinWoofer DIY amplifier is an organic fit for these platforms, utilizing the factory speaker wires and comes with our tried-and-true power solution. You can stop there or continue to accessorize adding speakers, mounts and other interesting components to help you realize your goals. This amp is a huge step-up compared to stock and will produce results close to our flagship amplifiers. One drawback is that the controls are located in the backbox so adjustment must take place with the backglass removed; the thinking is to finalize adjustments and for the most part leave the amplifier controls static.
Please visit our website and view the product description at the below link if you have an interest in knowing more:
https://pinwoofer.com/accessories/diy/
Thank you for your time and have a great day![quoted image]
Can everyone please report this post to the Pinside mods? Pinwoofer has been asked nicely a few times to refrain from advertising their products here but they can't seem to leave this thread alone. Completely unprofessional IMO.
I had to laugh when I traded for a pin that had a Pinwoofer kit already installed. First thing I noticed were the Pyle (of crap) speakers being used in this kit. Pyle? Really? I guess they need to keep the kit profitable for themselves, but using cheapo, flea market speakers? (that's where they were commonly sold back in the day).
I'm removing the Pinwoofer kit from this game and putting it in Aerosmith and will replace the Pyles while I'm doing it.
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